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Came across this picture taken at the factory in September 1988 Most of the Mooney team is in the picture although Bill Wheat, Mike Miles, Bill Craig are not.... This is serial number 27-0001. N20XM

I agree, a great PIREP, O Tree (or should I say King Julien?) For Hank, my thesis was on efficient climb, and I utilized the propeller models in Benchmark to predict the climb performance of several alternative profiles. The propeller performance algorithm in Benchmark is a marvelous bit of programming that makes the Boeing General Propeller Chart (a three dimensional surface chart, published in the Journal of Aeronautical Sciences in January 1943) a dynamic model that can be manipulated. Today's prop manufacturers all use proprietary CFD models to do the same function, but the Boeing Chart (and its Benchmark representation) is still surprisingly accurate even today. The swept, thin tip is a really good shape for reducing noise and transonic drag. CNC machining and very high fidelity computational fluid dynamic modeling made the manufacture of these new props possible. Climb speed has an ENORMOUS effect on propeller efficiency. Let's say you are in a climb at 88 KIAS in your 200hp Mooney with this Hartzell Blended Airfoil prop, passing 3000 feet on a standard day. Your engine is putting about 180hp into the prop hub at this point, about 27"MP and 2700 RPM. (No 25 square OWTs please). The prop is only about 76% efficient here, so you are getting about 137hp out of the prop. Now, without changing ANYTHING else, simply nose over a little and then climb at about 115 KIAS instead: Notice the prop efficiency is now about 83% efficient! There is about 12hp more coming out of the prop. (Sharp eyes will note the thrust force goes down, remember that power is a force per velocity function, see here for more details: http://www.epi-eng.com/propeller_technology/selecting_a_propeller.htm ) Now, the airplane won't have a higher VVI at this faster speed because the drag is going up a little faster than the excess power. But you are getting down range quite a bit faster, on essentially the same fuel burn. The magnitude of propeller thrust hp change with increased speed during climb has not been well understood outside of fairly small flight test engineering circles until recently. For the OP, those square tips were easy to manufacture in the old days, but very bad for blade loading, noise and transonic drag. The three-bladed Hartzell prop is still the old 7282 blade section, meaning the airfoil along the blade span is fairly consistent. The McCauley elliptical prop is a pretty good design and is hard to beat from a performance standpoint, but it is noisier and has more rpm restrictions, at least on the J with its A3 and B6 dynamic counterweights. The Hartzell ASC-II composite prop for the DA40 cited has a wide chord to help get back some of that lost efficiency at the slower speeds that I showed above, but that chord is a little wide for an airplane with a higher speed range, such as ours. Hartzell makes a 3 blade composite prop for the 200hp Van's airplanes, 74 inch diameter with a narrower chord that the Diamond prop, and is better suited for our speed range. See here: The neat thing is that this prop is stunningly light, only 42 lb due to their new light weight RaptorTM hub (the 3 bladed MT for the same application is 46lb.) Would love to see the Raptor on an E or a J.

A couple more quick answers, a 3 blade prop has a little better power loading and efficiency (~77.5% instead of 76% as above, for example) at the low speeds, so under the same 88 KIAS climb above you are seeing about 139 hp out of the prop instead of 137 from the BA. Will post the Benchmark model for a Mooney-Hartzell three blade here later today. You are correct on that long floatplane prop. Once out of the water a better noise and efficiency technique would be to get the RPM back off 2800 as one accelerates. If I had a float plane I would go to the trouble to model a climb RPM profile that would keep those tips off transonic as the helical tip speed (rotational speed plus forward speed basically) increases. Benchmark does show the 2 blade BA about 1% more efficient than the 3-blade at a normal cruise, for us around 155 KTAS at 8000 feet and roughly 70% power. Tim you are also correct on that. I can post more model charts if anyone wants to see 'em. And Cliffy thanks for the kind words. Engineering stuff is interesting, and what I try to do is keep it reasonably accurate, brief enough not to be boring, and immediately applicable by the audience in their flying.

The difference between kinky and perverted? Kinky is using the feather. Perverted is using the whole chicken.

Hi Guys, I pick up my new-to-me Mooney on Thursday of this week. It's a 1984 M20J. I've owned lots of aircraft during my 41 years of flying but never anything fast. My fleet has consisted of PA28-140 (2), AA1A, AA5B, C-172, and about 20 Ercoupes. I've added a couple of pictures for you to see. While some of you are removing the same equipment I have in my panel for new stuff, this is by far the best panel I have ever flown behind and I am really looking forward to it. There might be a fancy engine monitor in my near future. I would like to buy some touch-up paint to apply to the leading edges were there are some chips and blemishes. Any suggestion on matching the color? It has the original paint. I suspect even if I could match it via paint code, it might not match due to fading over 36 years, and I don't know the paint code, anyway. Thoughts? Suggestions? BTW, my options were a Piper Lance or a Mooney. Money won. Glen

Just had my annual done. Wanted to wait until I'd flown a bit to give a review. So far, everything looks good. I've owned the plane for around 10 years. Lynn said everything looked pretty good. He seems to go by the numbers. He found my tail was out of rig. It worked, but it always showed I had a bunch of up trim on the gauge. I always figured it's a 50+ year old plane and no one else seemed to care, so that's just how it is. After rigging, the trim scale is actually pretty accurate. Go figure. I also know he took time to pull the engine screen and anti-seize the powerflo exhaust. Most importantly, it seems he fixed my nagging flap issue. They would pump down but slowly come back up under prop wash or while flying. Did my BFR yesterday, and actually did a few full flap landings and of course stalls with full flaps. It seems they are holding. The kicker to the annual was that he actually gave me a date to arrive and a date to leave two days later barring any major squawks. That meant my wife could come with me and spend a few days vacationing instead of dropping the plane off and having to get it later. Bumming rides is possible, but it's sometimes aggravating to arrange. Lynn offered to let me stay at their house, but we opted to use their courtesy car to hang out in Asheville. The airport is easy, and since it's east of any major "mountains," no big deal getting in or out. Their fuel is also reasonably priced. Right now, I'd give AGL 5 out of 5 stars; and I'd definitely use them again.

I put an appropriate size plastic cup under the filter, then unscrew just enough to get the oil draining. Leave and come back the next day and remove filter and gently extract cup full of oil. Line your firewall with the blue shop paper towels. Take a plastic bag and wrap it around your nose gear and tire. Works every time and no mess!

Man I can read this interesting engineering stuff all night long! And I've been flying for over 50 years. Really interesting stuff Mine came with a McCauly 3 blade so I have no comparisons before and after conversion. (180 HP C) Thanks! Waiting for more.

Oh BTW, did you do the oil screen on the back of the engine ? Its a lot of fun with safety wire too.

Consider Subscribing and Fly Along! Messing with the RNAV for 31 at MPO. I am starting to mess with the approaches and figure out what all my system can do. Still learning! Getting a new carb put in N6887N. Its time! She is old. Thanks for Flying Along! Subscribe to PilotFun101 Films: https://www.youtube.com/PilotFun101 Proudly Sponsored By: Special Thank You to - Moyer Aviation http://www.moyeraviation.com/ Bose Aviation - https://www.bose.com/en_us/products/h... Proud Partners: Special Thank You to Dynon Avionics - https://www.dynonavionics.com/ (Best All-In-One System) Elevation Adventures Flight School - https://www.elevation-adventures.com/ Use Promotion Code PilotFun101 for 10% off all courses!! GoPro - https://gopro.com/en/us/ (HERO 5 & 7) Foreflight - https://foreflight.com/ My Favorite Aviation App for Pilots Aviation Oil Outlet - https://aviationoiloutlet.com/ Best prices for pilots (FREE SHIPPING) E-mail - PilotFun101@gmail.com Follow me - Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/PilotFun101/ Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/pilotfun101/ Transponder - Lynx L3 - https://www.l-3lynx.com/ Best All-In-One transponder for pilots. GPS - Avidyne IFD540 - https://www.avidyne.com/ Audio Panel - https://www.ps-engineering.com/ Check out aviation fun stuff on Amazon https://www.amazon.com This Video is for entertainment purposes only and is not to be considered flight instruction in any way. Please contact your local CFI for flight instruction. #PilotFun101 #MooneyM20C #Dynon

For those on a budget, just wanted to report that my Accu-Trak installation went well (with some trouble-shooting) and is traking GPS (GNC 300XL) as stated. When I installed my inital short flight went well, but transponder was flakey (I had center stack trays moved with install of a KX155)...and then radio (in GNC 300XL)...and then the GPS didn't acquire...All were related to Co-AX.. I think the antenna wasn't hooked up on last as there was "no charge"...so after three fixer flights had plane up and once trimmed at altitude the Accu-Trak does a nice job of holding GPS input course. This is NOT a bad cost effective option if you have a functioning PC in your plane... Just thought I'd update my result. Scott

I’ve seen this question come up a few times; it works without a problem! Safe and secure.

Great pirep for AGL! Thanks for sharing the details, rb! Best regards, -a-

Hi there, I have the CIES sender installed and linked to my JPI. They work nicely, although they are still not too accurate. It depends mainly on how you calibrate them. I feel I did not do a good job calibrating them, so I plan on recalibrating them shortly. But i like them much better than the original ones.

It could be wrong with my physics but I try to be careful about what I put in the hat rack. In the unfortunate instance that my plane hits something, or I break exceedingly hard to avoid an object (and I’m still alive), I believe whatever is in the hat rack is going to fly forward fairly quickly and hit me in the head. May not be worth worrying about, but it’s one reason why I don’t put my needle nose pliers or other tools up there.

Which portion? The fat ones?

That’s a problem people are to damn sensitive trying to make something out of everything ie say something like all lives matter and your a racist..come on man.

I will be salivating until then. I am unsuccessful at finding a post that I had that I have read in the past about a mooney (I think E model) owner who put a 3 blade hartzell pointy tip prop on. Saying that it was just a little bit smoother, didn’t see a climb increase and lost almost 5 knots in cruise. I was willing to loose top speed to get the smoother, quieter ride with the MT 3 blade yet as a learned earlier this week with a 4 way gps it with out a doubt did not loose speed. The actual numbers (154 to 156) came up a little faster but i was also lighter so I would dismiss the 2 knots. This is compared to what I think most consider the best 201 prop, the McCauley C214 OEM propeller. For MT to add all the benefits of a 3 blade with out the loss how do they do it? Material? Scimitar blade? It being a smaller diameter? More modern design? It amazes me because it has 2 things that should be bad for efficiency (3 blades and smaller diameter) yet no loss. Did I say I am salivating until you write back? Thank you for taking the time to write all of this in a way the non engineers can understand.

I have the CAD files for most Mooneys, can draw the rest. I can cut a panel for a whole lot less than the above. I use Nextel 'suede panel paint' and am looking around for a UV printer to print the labels and logo's straight onto the paint. The panel is an iterative process, there are only 1 or 2 types that I could confidently ship without a prototype. Then there is still quite a lot of work in removing the old instruments and installing the new ones. So when comparing quotes, be sure to understand what is included. Aerodon

Wow, hard to do on a phone. Ended up in google for mooneyspace downloads. Found it under Safety & Techniques, right where I put it lo these many years ago . . . . It's still how I do it.

@rbridges, this works well. Use a brush, stir often. @Skates97 sent me the half-can he had after doing his, do you want what's left? No idea on fading, mine is two whole weeks old and looks great! I may could deliver the can today or tomorrow. It'd be a good excuse to fly.

Ive done a few (not enough) Pilots n Paws flights with larger dogs. Pretty uniformly, they treat it like a car, hop right in, watch takeoff and landing, but otherwise curl up and go to sleep. Since the dogs are strangers, one thing I have is a tether which buckles into a seatbelt so they don't wander up front and get in the way.

Welcome aboard Glen. You made the right move! I’ve found the easiest thing to do is remove your avionics hatch and bring it to a finish masters so they can match the color. They can sell you a higher quality two stage paint in a spray can for the touch up. Your other option is to buy something like Imron AF400 from them, hardener, and use a spray gun but that’s going to be much more expensive if you are just looking for a touch up to protect exposed metal.

I have found that getting it loose, then spinning it off quickly, and letting it fall into my hand with the opening up results in just a few drops on the cloths I stuff underneath it. Then you have to be careful as you lift it out and around everything to make sure you don't turn it over or it will dump oil everywhere. There is always still quite a bit in the filter and I put it in a funnel draining into an empty oil bottle.

Yikes!!! So sorry this happened to you. Here's what I do..................during sump draining, I carefully punch a couple of small holes in the top of the filter. This allows the oil to flow out of the filter. Wait awhile then remove the filter. Oil dripping during filter removal will be at a manageable minimum. Good luck, you CAN do it!!

Haven’t we gone over this about a million times. If you do it right, it is less of a PITA then if you do it wrong, but still a PITA. It’s a Mooney, it’s the price we pay. It’s like marriage. There are things we are annoyed about, but the benefits out weigh the PITA stuff.

All those things above are correct. You must be in S.D.’s airplane. Basically what happened is Dean closed and then 2 absolutely terrible flight schools merged.

If you’re using gold clubs, just buy a TBM!

Is this the airplane where the nose wheel was rubbing in the wheel well? Didn’t expect this, but I guess these things happen. .200 is fairly significant. Good find by your mechanic. Glad LASAR is taking care of it.

going to CDW, he has a Cherokee right now.....

I can be myself a little bit more on this thread..... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'd send you to MSer @s10sakota as a possible option, or at least a pointer for his source...since he seems to have done exactly this on his kitplane. Apologies to him for snagging a screenshot of his video, to show you what he did:

Yeah, I've never seen anybody do aerobatics with the baggage door open!

I just got an update from my mechanic...he talked to LASAR today. Evidently the steering truss that was new from them last year was ever so slightly bent--about 0.200" off in one dimension, not sure which one--they are shipping a replacement today. Sounds like the delay was not so much related to fires directly impacting LASAR, but that they had to take it to another machine shop to do some precision measurements on it to find out what was wrong.

I don’t even know what you just said lol

I was just gonna say, rather than climb the learning curve of a CAD program like Eagleware or ExpresPCB, something general and simple like Visio does an excellent job for connecting blocks in diagrams and labelling things. If you don't need it to generate a netlist or a BoM or something, there's no need to use a CAD program. Even as an EE for several decades, I much prefer Visio for this sort of thing, i.e., block diagrams, etc. If you don't have it as part of an MS Office installation I think there's a way to d/l it for free, but I'm not positive about that.

For basic stuff Visio works pretty well....if you have a copy. I have a copy on my work PC and after a little trial and error it's pretty easy to use.

Coming very soon to MooneySpace aircraft classified section, I will be listing my dear friends' absolutely immaculate low time impeccably maintained one owner 2005 Ovation GX. He is a well respected retired United 747 Captain and long, long time Mooney owner/flyer............now retiring from flying. You will NOT be disappointed in his airplane nor disappointed in getting to know him through your purchase process. I'm honored to know this true gentleman and to help him with this process. Stand by please!

Good morning. My name is Hank, and I'm an addict . . . . .

Most obvious thing is the (-) terminal of the "gear" connection on that terminal block appears to have nothing at all connected to it. That would be consistent with the gear horn not sounding.

Another thing that has seemed to work is if you upload and it is rotated, then just crop the pic slightly. You don't have to change it much, not even change it from a portrait to landscape, just shave off a tiny bit, save it, and re-upload.

It's been a little while, but see below for parts list: McMaster: Hollow-tired flat-free wheel PN 2331T11 - but almost anything would work here - x2 Steel machinable chain sprocket, 10 tooth for ANSI 35 chain, PN 6793K117 - x2 Flat sprocket, 40 tooth, PN 2299K318 - x2 ebay: Milwaukee 2707-20 M18 hole hawg 1/2" right angle drill onlinemetals: 1.25"x0.12" wall x 36" - definitely overkill, next time I will go with a smaller wall thickness 0.5" O1 tool steel for shafts amazon: 10 piece bearing set, R6-2RS double sealed bearings 3/8" x 7/8" x 9/32" Various screws, setscrews, and flat barstock to hold bearings. I'll get more picks this weekend.

I don't sit on both seats, but here's what I do in cruise. I slide my seat back to "economy plus" and spread out. Sometimes I put one leg on the other side of the center column. I don't sit in the center, but this position does allow me to partially occupy the other seat by putting part of my weight on it and it gets me away from the cabin wall. I'm not quite as tall as you are though. I find that it does help to spread out a bit.

Will report back. The calculus so far says: $labor + $B hub + (($cost of && time to find serviceable used blades) || $buy new blades) ≅ $top prop I've read a lot on this site and others about the marginal gain of a top prop. Maybe a couple kts faster cruise. Not much quieter in a Mooney because of the motor mount hard connection to the tubular steel frame. Slightly longer t/o roll. Looks cool. Will help sell her when that time comes. It's just money. Nobody owns an airplane to save money.

That year would be consistent with the less than idea metallurgy on cams theory. 1990s through early 2000

Documentation for some other similar Garmin transponders (3X5 for one) does claim the Bluetooth antenna is under the label. As an old RF guy I will opine the signal is not coming through that drain hole — look up “waveguide beyond cutoff” if you’re curious why.