I'm Looking at a 1968 M20

[MooneyPitts]

Is there anything I should look out for or consider when checking this bird out?

[M20F]

What model?

[sreid]

You should check out a good shop familiar with Mooney's and have them do a pre-buy inspection. You're not buying a dirt bike, have someone else look at it!

Steve

[OR75]

Best would be if you know someone you can trust and who has actively been involved in maintenance .

Planes are like houses , you are always smarter when you buy your second one.

If you don't, a reputable mooney shop is a good choice. They would tend to focus on airworthiness items.

[Hank]

Search this site. George Perry had a thread a couple of years ago with a pretty comprehensive list of concerns. It is not a full PPI, just things that should be discussed, thought about and looked for before committing to one.

Buy one in good condition, you will love it!

[Marauder]

Here is a link that will show some of the history of the plane: http://www.aviationdb.com/Aviation/AircraftQuery.shtm

[Seanhoya]

Uniballer,

 

Take a look at this report:

 

http://www.mooneypilots.com/mapalog/M20G%20Evaluation/M20G_Eval.htm

 

I fly a 1968 M20G.  Look - I love my plane.  My friend calls it "The Green Hornet."  I have done a good amount of work on it, including installing a GNS 430W, a new audio panel, compatible CDI, cowl modification, etc.   It is about as capable of a machine as it can be now without some serious money.  I burn 9.5 gallons an hour and cruise at 136 knots.

 

Originally, I looked for a normally aspirated engine because I thought I would save money over a fuel-injected model.  Now, however, I kind of regreat not getting a M20F - I would have been able to install Gami injectors and operate lean of peak.  Instead, I have a carbuerator and CHT problems that I am still dealing with.  Also, finding a mechanic comfortable with carbuerators is becoming a bit more difficult.

 

Mooneys are awesome, efficient airplanes.  For me, airframe is really important - make sure that the mechanic checks extensively for rust.  You might pay the money to have him pull the wing-bolts and check within the wings - this is an AD from a few years ago.  Also, beware of guys who have "friends" who are A & Ps doing their maintenance - this can be a recipe for disaster, because it can be an indication that they are gun-decking the maintenance.  Look for only professional maintenance.

 

Look under the belly for signs of a gear-up - this is remarkably common.  Any dent should have a history.  Look for tight wiring and whether the engine actually looks maintained.  Realize that upgrades are expensive - buy the plane you want now - don't necessarily expect that you will be able to improve an aircraft within your budget.  Plan to spend $10,000 on the first annual after a purchase, and twice as much as you think you are going to spend thereafter.

 

Finally, check the autopilot - aftermarket autopilot work is really a pain.  Mooneys of this era came with Positive Control (PC) - a sort of old-school wing-leveler.  If the PC has been disconected, in my book, it has to have a functional autopilot to be considered airworthy (I know! There will be somoe differing opinions on this one....).  Check all instruments thoroughly.  Do an approach on each CDI.  Do a NDB approach if there is a ADF.  Do not accept "Good Enough."  Turn on the speaker.  Check the ELT.  Turn every knob, turn on every light.  Fly the airplane with a CFI who actually knows Mooneys. 

 

Fly the plane home in day VMC.  Do not fly IFR until you have checked out each instrument in CAVU weather.

 

Sean

[Sabremech]

Hi Sean,

 What AD are you refering to that would entail removing the wing bolts? Just curious.

 Thanks,

 David

[Seanhoya]

David,

 

Sorry - it's a Mooney Service Bulletin I complied with once when I replaced the insulation in my aircraft.  Mooney SB M20-208B - Inspection of tubular structure.

 

You can find it at http://www.mooney.com/servicepdf/index.php.

 

 

Sean

[Sabremech]

Hi Sean,

 I suspected you were refering to SB 208. Just didn't want to confuse a new potential owner to a non existant AD.

 Thanks,

 David