quick drain

[Guest]

I am doing the first oil change on my M20J.  My IA told me to remove the oil quick drain and replace the o rings.  I removed the part, BJ1000AH4.  I can't seem to find any orings on it.  Any ideas on how to make this thing not leak? 

 

Also, when I pulled the filter, it made a heck of a mess.  My nose gear assembly will not need any lube for a while.  Is there any technique that anyone would care to share to keep the filter from making a huge mess when it comes off?  I even had a rag under it and it wasn't nearly enough.

[MikeOH]

I believe the o-rings are internal but I've never had mine apart.

Various 'tricks' for preventing all the oil spills when removing the filter.

My technique:

After breaking loose the filter and unscrewing to the point it will start to leak I then slip a large zip-lock bag over it and 'pull' up on the edge of the open end.  That raises the bag up behind the filter mounting flange and prevents the oil from leaking.  Unscrewing the filter with the bag on it takes a little practice/effort but the engine remains spotless!

[LANCECASPER]

8 minutes ago, Kerrville said:

Any ideas on how to make this thing not leak? 

Replace it

[EricJ]

11 minutes ago, Kerrville said:

I am doing the first oil change on my M20J.  My IA told me to remove the oil quick drain and replace the o rings.  I removed the part, BJ1000AH4.  I can't seem to find any orings on it.  Any ideas on how to make this thing not leak? 

 

Also, when I pulled the filter, it made a heck of a mess.  My nose gear assembly will not need any lube for a while.  Is there any technique that anyone would care to share to keep the filter from making a huge mess when it comes off?  I even had a rag under it and it wasn't nearly enough.

Some, like the Saf-air, are serviceable, but I think some aren't.   What you have may not be.   If it is, there's likely a snap ring or something holding it together that should be evident.

Letting it sit several hours or overnight after running will let the filter drain a bit and sometimes there's nothing at all in it after that.   

[Shadrach]

25 minutes ago, Kerrville said:

I am doing the first oil change on my M20J.  My IA told me to remove the oil quick drain and replace the o rings.  I removed the part, BJ1000AH4.  I can't seem to find any orings on it.  Any ideas on how to make this thing not leak? 

 

Also, when I pulled the filter, it made a heck of a mess.  My nose gear assembly will not need any lube for a while.  Is there any technique that anyone would care to share to keep the filter from making a huge mess when it comes off?  I even had a rag under it and it wasn't nearly enough.

I have had pretty good luck minimizing the mess with these.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/oilfilterbibs.php

[802flyer]

https://mooneyspace.com/topic/27594-oil-change-tool/?do=findComment&comment=453878

I made one of these (though found the metal hanger unnecessaryif you leave the full diameter portion longer, as it wedges in with the scat tube) and never spill a drop under the filter.


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[EricJ]

1 minute ago, 802flyer said:

https://mooneyspace.com/topic/27594-oil-change-tool/?do=findComment&comment=453878

I made one of these (though found the metal hanger unnecessary as it wedges in tightly enough) and never spill a drop under the filter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Unfortunately those don't work on a J model.   The accessory case is different and essentially prevents it.

 

[802flyer]

Unfortunately those don't work on a J model.   The accessory case is different and essentially prevents it.
 

Oh bummer! I didn’t realize the difference existed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[MB65E]

1. M83248/1-109. Just installed one myself. Would you believe that unit will seal completely metal to metal with out an oring! Mobile jet 2 was the oil. 
2. Gallon zip lock bag.

-Matt

Edited April 17, 2024 by MB65E

[MB65E]

I can’t stand the safe air ones! 
-Matt

[MikeOH]

3 hours ago, Shadrach said:

I have had pretty good luck minimizing the mess with these.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/oilfilterbibs.php

That's pretty much how my zip-lock bag method works; rides up over the bottom of the oil filter adaptor flange.

[Guest]

I can't figure out how to open this thing up.  I don't see an oring anywhere.  I would rather not replace the whole drain with another, my preference would be just to make this one stop leaking.  

 

If I can't do that, am I allowed to use just a NPT plug?  I have to decowl to do an oil change anyway, since I don't think that I would ever change the oil without changing the filter, so the whole thing is really just a waste of time.

[Z W]

A form-a-funnel works pretty well on getting oil from the filter into the bucket.  Comes in handy doing lots of other things too around the plane / hangar.  $15 on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Cyantor-Flexible-Draining-Foldable-Reusable/dp/B08R5YYQJ6/ref=sr_1_7?crid=27IH2ZDX141O3&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.eLE_CAL9gdciPWXq2JwDmg8HhI5ZgEHmFpABNsHY80nA6s1vyCd93LK7xutKNuTx79SAZDfj_QchQ-RT_TZbTNAigIncivLk-QNledha-Pd5RtUrpqgNf0HdEPeKibQz01-VbF_D0T7Au1Sy1w6ab_uvUfD1Gl0DqNULJo3fwcwgXuuLDc96zVLzY-qpGJB59SNzXLfIr3IErzGDCcODCtFP2zHobSGbcaXnruN7tG4rUSb5efsKfmkXgPNCOeKfXOSmdrlueLc1bZnkH_6x9tHBMBcHfj1OQgWYVi9pJeI.gMEuGBpIAqqiXIxrvh2g-uEVcNs1wECj95gVL1uUGsc&dib_tag=se&keywords=form+a+funnel&qid=1713354127&sprefix=form+a+funnel%2Caps%2C92&sr=8-7

[LANCECASPER]

16 hours ago, Kerrville said:

I am doing the first oil change on my M20J.  My IA told me to remove the oil quick drain and replace the o rings.  I removed the part, BJ1000AH4.  I can't seem to find any orings on it.  Any ideas on how to make this thing not leak? 

 

Also, when I pulled the filter, it made a heck of a mess.  My nose gear assembly will not need any lube for a while.  Is there any technique that anyone would care to share to keep the filter from making a huge mess when it comes off?  I even had a rag under it and it wasn't nearly enough.

The last time I saw one like that was 2017 on a 1993 Mooney M20M that I had - and every indication is that it had been on there since new. It leaked like a sieve. The spring action on the drain wasn't working well. I couldn’t get it loose on my own, so until I could get it in to have someone else get it off I actually put a cork in it. Dugosh heated it up and got it off in a few minutes. They replaced it with one much better (Saf-Air) and never had a leak after that.  There are some things worth fixing - a thirty year old quick drain isn’t one of them. 

 

Lots of discussion about quick drains on Mooneyspace:

https://mooneyspace.com/search/?q="Quick drain"&quick=1&updated_after=any&sortby=relevancy

[rturbett]

just completed my first oil change on my J as well-

I combined the pvc trough technique to drain oil from the filter (carefully poke the two holes in the filter!) with a towel underneath, and also put a plastic bag over it before unscrewing. Not a drop on the plane!

Inspect while you are there for wire conditions, etc.  I found two items to address.

[Bolter]

15 hours ago, Kerrville said:

I am doing the first oil change on my M20J.  My IA told me to remove the oil quick drain and replace the o rings.  I removed the part, BJ1000AH4.  I can't seem to find any orings on it.  Any ideas on how to make this thing not leak? 

 

Also, when I pulled the filter, it made a heck of a mess.  My nose gear assembly will not need any lube for a while.  Is there any technique that anyone would care to share to keep the filter from making a huge mess when it comes off?  I even had a rag under it and it wasn't nearly enough.

 

Maybe there WERE o-rings.  I do not know the inner parts of this style drain, but maybe the o-ring was damaged or removed at some point without replacement?  I know people complain about this type of drain, and replace with bayonnet style like the SAF-AIR OIL DRAIN VALVE (I think it was the P5000).  That is what I put on my J with no leaks in over 1000 hours and lots of access space for it. 

-dan

[PT20J]

O-ring is on the end of the plunger. Your mechanic should have a supply of o-rings. Nitrile or Fluorosilicone. Saf-Air is a better design. 

[Guest]

After more inspection under better lighting conditions, I found that the black part was once an o-ring, it had just compressed and become hard as plastic, (It broke in half when I removed it.)  That thing has been making a mess and making me think that I had other issues...  I replaced the o-ring with nitrile, although I have been advised that Viton is a superior replacement in all ways, but we couldn't find a Viton in the proper size.  Will put it back on and keep my fingers crossed that it doesn't leak...  Thanks for the input guys!

[MB65E]

Just don’t use the Fluorosilicon blue o-rings with hydraulic fluid. 
I’ve had the set pin back out of the safe-air valves. 
What you have is a proven design. One just needs to change the oring once ever 25y. Lol.
-Matt

[Rick Junkin]

On 4/16/2024 at 8:39 PM, Kerrville said:

Also, when I pulled the filter, it made a heck of a mess.  My nose gear assembly will not need any lube for a while.  Is there any technique that anyone would care to share to keep the filter from making a huge mess when it comes off?  I even had a rag under it and it wasn't nearly enough.

I got one of these and it works great. I shove some pig mat or good absorbent paper towel under the filter to catch the minimal drips that happen when I spin the filter off, use that paper towel to wipe off the oil filter mating surface, and spin the new filter on. I can now swap the filter, Including safety wire, in less than 10 minutes because there is no mess to clean up. All you need is this tool, a hammer, an air source, and some tape to cover the hole when you remove the tool and spin the filter off.

https://antisplataero.com/product/asa-ez-oil-filter-drain/

Cheers,
Junkman

[slowflyin]

3 hours ago, Rick Junkin said:

I got one of these and it works great. I shove some pig mat or good absorbent paper towel under the filter to catch the minimal drips that happen when I spin the filter off, use that paper towel to wipe off the oil filter mating surface, and spin the new filter on. I can now swap the filter, Including safety wire, in less than 10 minutes because there is no mess to clean up. All you need is this tool, a hammer, an air source, and some tape to cover the hole when you remove the tool and spin the filter off.

https://antisplataero.com/product/asa-ez-oil-filter-drain/

Cheers,
Junkman

Same.  Not sure how I lived without all these years!

[ArtVandelay]

I got one of these and it works great. I shove some pig mat or good absorbent paper towel under the filter to catch the minimal drips that happen when I spin the filter off, use that paper towel to wipe off the oil filter mating surface, and spin the new filter on. I can now swap the filter, Including safety wire, in less than 10 minutes because there is no mess to clean up. All you need is this tool, a hammer, an air source, and some tape to cover the hole when you remove the tool and spin the filter off.
https://antisplataero.com/product/asa-ez-oil-filter-drain/

Cheers,
Junkman

I don’t like the idea of blowing the oil out with compressed air, seems to me this would likely blow the sediments trapped in the filter back into the engine?

[PT20J]

27 minutes ago, ArtVandelay said:

I don’t like the idea of blowing the oil out with compressed air, seems to me this would likely blow the sediments trapped in the filter back into the engine?

Interesting thought. I think it likely depends on whether the filter has an anti-drainback valve or not. Oil flows into the filter can around the outside of the media, then through the media and out the center. If the filter has an anit-drainback valve, air should force the trapped oil through the media and out the center, so it is being filtered. The anti-drainback valve in the filter should prevent unfiltered oil from blowing down through the oil pump. But if there is no anti-drainback valve, the air would probably force oil back through the pump because that path would be lower resistance than through the media.

Either way it seems like the trapped oil on either side of the media shouldn't be much different in terms of contamination unless the engine is making a lot of metal.

https://aeroaccessories.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Tempest-OilFilterValves-Final.pdf

[Rick Junkin]

1 hour ago, ArtVandelay said:

I don’t like the idea of blowing the oil out with compressed air, seems to me this would likely blow the sediments trapped in the filter back into the engine?

 

27 minutes ago, PT20J said:

Interesting thought. I think it likely depends on whether the filter has an anti-drainback valve or not. Oil flows into the filter can around the outside of the media, then through the media and out the center. If the filter has an anit-drainback valve, air should force the trapped oil through the media and out the center, so it is being filtered. The anti-drainback valve in the filter should prevent unfiltered oil from blowing down through the oil pump. But if there is no anti-drainback valve, the air would probably force oil back through the pump because that path would be lower resistance than through the media.

Either way it seems like the trapped oil on either side of the media shouldn't be much different in terms of contamination unless the engine is making a lot of metal.

https://aeroaccessories.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/01/Tempest-OilFilterValves-Final.pdf

Hmmm.

There was a pretty thorough presentation of ideas on the Van's forum when this item was first made available. The discussion consistently makes reference to the ADB valve in the oil filter being the thing that prevents harm.

https://vansairforce.net/threads/new-a-s-a-video-is-up-see-website.194870/ 

However reading through the entirety of the reference Skip posted I discovered the AA48110-2 filter on my Bravo does NOT have an ADB valve. Uh oh.

So the question becomes one of risk assessment of potential impact on three counts; 1) What is the possibility/probability of back-flushing the oil in the filter through the media in the wrong direction and pushing contaminants back into the engine; 2) what level of contaminants are in the oil in the filter that hasn't passed through the media that is going back into the engine; 3) Is there any consequence of applying back pressure to the oil pump, cooler, etc. The Van's Air Force thread had a lot to say about that last one.

Make your best decision for you and your engine.

Cheers,
Junkman

 

[Pinecone]

All these gyrations, I wonder if any of the engineers designing engines and system EVER changed there own oil? 

At one point my Dad was up high in the Navy R&D world.  He would also people trying to sell the latest super zoot thing to the Navy if they did their own tune ups and changed their own oil (this was in the 70s).  If they said no, he told them he was not interested.  When they asked why, he told them that if they did not do basic maintenance on their own cars, there was no way that he could maintain their gizmo on a carrier, in the South China Sea, during a storm with an 18-old farm boy fresh off the farm.

I LOVER my Dodge Daytona Turbo.  That car was designed by car guys.  Pop the hook and there was the distributor, the spark plugs, the oil filter and the air filter.  All serviceable without any gyrations or special tools.  You could change the distributor cap, spark plugs, oil and air filter in less time that it took to drain the oil.