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slowflyin

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Everything posted by slowflyin

  1. If my memory serves me, Lycoming is anti scuff and Camguard is anti corrosion. My memory isn’t what it used to be so further research may be prudent. . Seems like Mike B. had some relevant information.
  2. I’m pretty sure Lycoming’s additive is an anti-scuff product. Different purpose than Camguard.
  3. The mid body K models are turbo, and many have had modern avionics installed but I'm not sure about FIKI. The Bravo, M20M, is turbocharged and available with FIKI. Again, many have nice, modern avionics. As #Brandt stated, the Acclaims are the newest, available with FIKI, and are the fastest.
  4. Nothing but you will notice resistance on the door handle. It's enough to give pause.
  5. I level flight, downwind, the FF and Cies gauges both read the same. They always do in flight. They never do on the ground. The Cies are calibrated for level flight and wing site gauges are calibrated for on the ground. They should not agree. I haven't topped off yet. I'll let you know. If history repeats, it will be very close to 74 gallons.
  6. The installation not terribly difficult. The most challenging was removal of the glue from the previous seal. This will be the same task for any new seal installation. I'll have to check on the adhesive. I used whatever the Bob F. folks recommended. I mounted the bulb on the door. It is very effective. Crazy quiet and draft free. If you forget it won't be for long. It's not effective when deflated and the noise is substantial.
  7. I run Cies senders and JPI FF so I have a pretty good idea how much fuel is onboard. My rule is to land with no less than 45 minutes. I plan for an hour with 45 minutes being a minimum. I'm not concerned about low fuel levels in coordinated flight, but crosswinds can be challenging with a surging engine. Almost had a C120 eat my lunch years ago when she started sucking air in a strong crosswind landing. If I calculate landing with less than 14 gallons I check the winds at my destination and run the downwind tank to almost empty. Here's a picture from yesterday's flight. Note the totalizers reads 14.9 but the gauges total 23. In level flight the gauges totaled 15 (1 on the left and 14 on the right). The wing site gauges totaled 15 after landing as well. My Bravo's fuel gauges are only accurate in flight and the wing mounted site gauges are only accurate on the ground.
  8. They are not cheap. That being said, I probably spent as much on the wrong seals over the years without near the success. Mooney M20A thru M20K Inflatable Door Seals – Bob Fields Aerocessories I did the installation myself.
  9. Lots of folks on this forum have had fantastic success with everything from custom made to Home Depot solutions. I'm not one of them. I tried many different types with no luck. Finally, I broke down and bought an inflatable seal. No fancy electric pump-just the bulb. Works great and I'll never go back.
  10. Lean aggressively for ground ops and it will drop. Towing my AC with my gas PowerTow results in readings in the twenties in some winds. Same with fuel truck.
  11. Yes Sir, I'm tracking. The main feature of these fairly new, off the shelf cameras is logging. It isolates the plate and stores it with a date and time stamp. If I can set it up to delete data after 30 days, I may be able to stay between the lines. Also, the last thing I want to do is violate someone's privacy. Thanks again for the heads up. Just the nudge I needed to consider all angles.
  12. Interesting. I'm in the process of upgrading the cameras around my hangar and have an ALPR capable camera in the "cart" for purchase. I'm located adjacent the access gate and thought it would be useful to the tenants on the field if anything came up missing. As license plates are readily viewable by anyone, I assumed they were not subject to any privacy concerns. Seems odd that taking a picture of a license plate at a location that is readily viewable by the public would be illegal. Thanks for the heads up. I'll certainly dig a little deeper.
  13. I use antisplats EZ Oil filter drain. Exceeds expectations.
  14. I've been using one for many years. Works great! When I first got it I tested with humidity levels and remember excellent results. Sorry, I can't offer the exact data as it was a long time ago. Of note, my unit has malfunctioned twice over the last decade or so. Both times I received excellent service! Both failures were in the early years. It's been at least six or seven years since the last repair and its running strong. I highly recommend both the product and the vendor.
  15. I'm located in VA. For years I struggled with my Q-hut hanger. Cold as heck in the winter and unbearable in the summer. Worst of all was the corrosion on my tools. When I bought my Bravo I decided something had to be done. Three inches of spray foam insulation and a mini split turned my hangar into paradise. It definitely controls the humidity and when I'm working on the plane I just rachet the thermostat down to 75. The variable speed compressor in the mini split has eliminated any concerns about short cycling and ineffective humidity control. It's a whole different experience! Winters are the same. I typically set it on 50. If I'm flying the next day or working one the airplane, I turn it up!
  16. It's a three layer mechanism. A black ring stuck to the glass connected to a black ring out front with the indicator ring slipping between the two. I had one in my 170 and found it useful.
  17. Green 500 to go Yellow 200 to go Red Minimums.
  18. I recall risers and wastegates on his first two engines. Maybe @donkaye can chime in. It's likely I may be mistaken. Memory isn't what it once was.
  19. I agree and rarely run near 1600 TIT. That being said, the lack of data is frustrating. 1750 didn't work so they dropped the TIT max to 1650. Did 1650 not work? I've read all I can find and haven't been able to find any remarks regarding 1650 burning up someone's exhaust. Did your previous owner run 1650 as a limit? @donkaye has more experience with the Bravo than most and he runs very conservative TIT temps. He's still doing exhaust work mid-time. If he had used 1625 or 1650 would he have had a different outcome? One thread had comments from a gent that had a background in metallurgy, and he was fairly adamant 1650 was good to go. Wonder how his exhaust is holding up. In the end, all I can find is these engines need exhaust work, 1750 is bad, 1650 is Mooney's opinion, everyone else seems to lean toward some degree of cooler is better. How much cooler depends on who you ask. It's not my intention to be argumentative. Patience is appreciated in advance.
  20. Mine doesn't require GAMIs. It will run smooth on the lean side. My biggest challenge with LOP ops is keeping the TIT in an acceptable range. 14.2 GPH-LOP puts TIT at or above 1650. I can lean to 13.2 GPH, 1625 TIT without roughness or surging for around a 10 kt penalty. I'd like to see 1600 or less. LOP, my highest CHT drops from 385 to 350. I'm constantly contemplating whether I should baby the jugs or the exhaust.
  21. I've got a Victor Black engine in my Bravo and I love it! Silky smooth-runs like a sewing machine. No GAMIs but will run LOP if I choose. All that being said, a Lycoming overhaul comes with exhaust and turbo. Not so much with anyone else. I thought my exhaust was in good shape. Not so much.
  22. I pretty sure you can wire it into the gear light circuit.
  23. I've utilized Specialized for a truss with great results.
  24. My CO will read 10 ppm if I leave the storm vent open and tow the AC with my power tow. These detectors are very sensitive. If lean aggressively on the ground, I've found it drastically reduces any CO readings. If I don't, I can easily have 25 or 30 ppm. 0 in climb and 0 in cruise.
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