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Carb air box

Robert Hicks
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Robert Hicks Rising Star

Robert Hicks

Posted
Posted

Mine is pretty beat up. Anyone have a spare laying around? PN 6235-11. Pic below is what I need. Not an actual pic of the one I have. Thank you. 8af2c05f5837e2f2200f21b2b0050905.jpg

 

 

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cctsurf Proficient

cctsurf

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, mike20papa said:

These came from the factory beat up junk.  Re-work is the order of the day.

I wouldn't totally give up on getting a decent one off of here... 

I'm not certain how long this fact will last, but my understanding is that all of the mooney service centers had rebuild parts on hand.  Lasar will rebuild them for a $um, or you can get the parts and your a&p or IA can rebuild it.

ragedracer1977 Veteran

ragedracer1977

Posted
Posted
19 minutes ago, cctsurf said:

I wouldn't totally give up on getting a decent one off of here... 

I'm not certain how long this fact will last, but my understanding is that all of the mooney service centers had rebuild parts on hand.  Lasar will rebuild them for a $um, or you can get the parts and your a&p or IA can rebuild it.

I have a decent one. It needs work, but I have no idea how bad his is

I sent him a message.

mike20papa Rising Star

mike20papa

Posted
Posted

1382258718_Airbox1.thumb.JPG.0a07d1750e3562fdba8d4cabfa206a47.JPGI'm just saying the induction system for the 180 hp Mooneys is really a marginal design.  The induction booty thing, the carb box, the carb heat flap & linkage. ... makes you wonder.  The carb heat box usually cracks at the base of the carb heat inlet tube.  The little needle bearings on the heat flap shake themselves to pieces - and the carb heat linkage geometry "was beat to fit".   When I had a welder attempt to repair the crack - the alumn. had so much inter-granular (due to age) it was almost impossible to weld.  Ended up cutting most of it away and forming a new piece of alumn. as a patch.  The good think about this is that it created a "pocket" for the heat flap to swing up out of the way of the airflow.  Also, look at MacFarlane for replacement "elastomeric" bearings to get rid of the old needle bearings on the air flap shaft.  They are a great improvement - and won't be feeding needle bearings into your engine as they shake apart.  Also, I think that Mooney put out a SB regarding the attachment of the heat flap to shaft.   Once again - the photos are @%&?! inverted - Good luck.  Joe1394460086_airbox4.thumb.JPG.8ffe01d70ebe6a5dc7469ac957b0c900.JPG

Airbox 2.JPG

airbox 3.JPG

  • Like 1
cctsurf Proficient

cctsurf

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, mike20papa said:

Airbox 2.JPG

 

Wondering if other people have that wedge between their carb and the heat box...  I don't think I've ever seen one in a picture on here and I don't have one...  Looks like my accordian might have appreciated the different angle...

Another reason I'd love to get my hands on the sabrecowl...  modern airbox, modern baffling...

  • Like 1
cctsurf Proficient

cctsurf

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, Robert Hicks said:

Would it be beyond the realm of possibilities to create a mold and make this out of carbon fiber? Heat, vibration be an issue?

Something like this?  I'd love the air filter...

RV-6AN731CK139.JPG

Sabremech Veteran

Sabremech

Posted
Posted

I’m actually thinking of making my new carb air box available with an adapter to the stock C & G model filter. Would like to find a way to not have to do an STC though. 
 

  • Like 2
cctsurf Proficient

cctsurf

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Sabremech said:

I’m actually thinking of making my new carb air box available with an adapter to the stock C & G model filter. Would like to find a way to not have to do an STC though. 
 

I'm still drooling on your cowl...Hope I can make it work.  but a better airbox would be a major move forward for the carbureted  owners.

I have to wonder if the carb heat, etc. could be separated from the vibration of the engine...perhaps attaching the carb heat box to the air filter end/cowl, then using a more common scat tubing to connect to the carb.  I know that something like that would require an stc, but it would be a good thing for the longevity of the airbox. 

Edited by cctsurf
Further ideas
carusoam Grand Master

carusoam

Posted
Posted

I was reading down this thread getting ready to write about David’s cowl making skills.... and air intake technology....

Thankfully he took care of that...

making my typing much shorter tonight...

Best regards,

-a-

mike20papa Rising Star

mike20papa

Posted
Posted

Carb heat box and flex boot problems could be solved with an improved design the would effectively lengthen the heat box - forward..  The boot could be replaced with a metal duct the over lapped the inlet of the heat box with enough clearance to provide - engine vibration +  round, flex sealant.  I'm going to work on one.

  • Like 1
Andy95W Grand Master

Andy95W

Posted
Posted
14 hours ago, mike20papa said:

Carb heat box and flex boot problems could be solved with an improved design the would effectively lengthen the heat box - forward..  The boot could be replaced with a metal duct the over lapped the inlet of the heat box with enough clearance to provide - engine vibration +  round, flex sealant.  I'm going to work on one.

I wish you the best of luck, and hope you're successful- but I must admit I'm a little skeptical of that being a workable solution.

Watch sometime as someone starts their engine without the cowling installed.  The engine moves about every direction possible- up/down/left/right- sometimes at the same time- but mostly there's a twisting component that would be hard to account for.  But I do hope you're successful. 

  • Like 2
mike20papa Rising Star

mike20papa

Posted
Posted

Yes, I agree with that statement.  Having seen the patched up lower cowlings around the intake filter and the associated sheet metal around air filters beat up due to engine vibration.  I have even seen the breeze clamps nearly chew a hole thru the bottom of the cowling air scoop due to vibration.  It;s all a poor design.   Actually, the rubber boot is great for axial/front to rear movement, but poor for lateral engine vibration movement.  The fix I think about would allow for the lateral movement.  Shut down can be especially cruel to all the bits connected.

  • Like 1
carusoam Grand Master

carusoam

Posted
Posted

That is one of the best Carb pics on MS!

Go one of the other side to go with it?

:)

if a trophy was awarded for the M+S car pic... would that be a Borg-Warner trophy?

 

Best regards,

-a-

  • Like 1
Robert Hicks Rising Star

Robert Hicks

Posted
  • Author
Posted
That is one of the best Carb pics on MS!
Go one of the other side to go with it?

Best regards,
-a-

I can get one for you but the exhaust is mounted up now.


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Guest

Guest

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, Robert Hicks said:

Thank you all for the replies. [mention]ragedracer1977 [/mention]got me sorted out! e239c12f613a051b903c9cdf1b7045b3.jpg


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The fuel pressure hose on your carburetor is rated for instrument air and not fuel.  
 

Clarence

  • 2 years later...
Terrys Rookie

Terrys

Posted
Posted

I am also in need of a M20C 360 air box.  Please help if you know of one in decent condition.  There are some parts out of my existing one that I may be able to reuse if I can get a shell that's not cracked and broken.

47U Mentor

47U

Posted
Posted
On 4/28/2020 at 6:48 PM, carusoam said:

We have a few players in the used parts arena...

The wear issues probably get new parts from Lasar...

@Alan Fox

@Jerry Pressley

@SheryLoewen

Best regards,

-a-

@Terrys one of these providers (above) is probably your best chance of getting something that can made serviceable.  

I noted we are separated by only one aircraft on the assembly line.  I rebuilt my air box in 2010 and it’s still going strong.

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