Any tricks to pulling oil screen on IO-360?

[Skates97]

On 6/10/2018 at 7:23 AM, dmevans said:

If I remember correctly, I think 2 tappets had been been cracked. My engine case was jacked up too. No matter how bloody my knuckles, I will be changing the screen at EVERY oil change. Lol. Here's a couple more photos...

 

I did mine for the first time at my last oil change and was glad to see it completely clean. It was a pain, but I will be doing it with every oil change, just have to budget the time so I don't get frustrated. I think with a couple more times I will be able to cut my time down from the couple hours it took me on the first one.

1 hour ago, M20Doc said:

It shows how tough these engines can be, all of that damage and it was still running.  I’m glad you caught it before it quit.

Clarence

Yes, and a little peace of mind that with good maintenance and monitoring one "should" be able to catch most things before there is a catastrophic failure.

[dmevans]

I can't believe the engine was idling and running smooth!! These things are truly bullet proof.

[kellym]

On 5/29/2018 at 4:17 PM, N201MKTurbo said:

I'm not saying that I'm going to stop pulling it at annual, but so far everyone has said that whenever they find stuff on the suction screen they also found stuff in the filter or pressure screen. 

So, I'll rephrase my question. 

Has anybody ever found something on the suction screen and didn't also find something in the filter?

Yes. When my cam and lifters self destructed, the filter had some specs of metal, but the screen was full of it. The oil pump was doing a good job of smashing whatever got through the screen into very fine specs, which were few the oil change before I discovered in the screen.

[carusoam]

That would be interesting to know for sure...

pieces of metal going through the gear pump....?

For most of our gear pumps...

• one gear is driven...
• the other is idling and getting pushed by the driven gear.
• They used to be made of two different metals. Steal and aluminum...
• An AD removed the aluminum gear. It had a tendency to wear too quickly, faster than two steal gears...
• Metallurgy suggests two metals of different hardnesses will preferentially wear the softer gear first, slowly...  compared to two identical materials that would evenly wear quickly...
• The tolerances are quite tight, prone to jamming by small objects...
• once jammed something needs to release the stress... possibly a broken drive or a broken gear...
• Some form of filter or screen is expected before the gear pump. To avoid jamming...
• The gear pump on the O360 is on the back of the engine behind the accessory cover.  Tough place to reach to swap out gears...

Worth looking into where the screen is in the flow, compaired to the gear pump?

Fuzzy PP memories from a few years ago... not a mechanic.

Best regards,

-a-

[RobertGary1]

The screen is at the pickup below the pump. As the pump sucks the oil up it has to go through this finger screen sitting in the pan. 

-Robert

[TheTurtle]

what holds the screen in the cap?  Does it seat against something inside the block?

[Marcopolo]

@TheTurtle,

 

The screen has a slight interference fit in both the cap and in the block/sump.

 

Ron

[DaV8or]

Has anybody come across a Mooney where you just couldn't get the screen all the way out?

[Mooneymite]

11 minutes ago, DaV8or said:

Has anybody come across a Mooney where you just couldn't get the screen all the way out?

Yes.  My C's throttle cable bracket will not allow the screen to completely come out of the engine.  I can inspect 95% of it and I can pass a magnet through it, but without removing that bracket there isn't enough clearance.

[0TreeLemur]

On 9/26/2018 at 4:36 PM, Mooneymite said:

Yes.  My C's throttle cable bracket will not allow the screen to completely come out of the engine.  I can inspect 95% of it and I can pass a magnet through it, but without removing that bracket there isn't enough clearance.

Work done by braille?  Use "the force"?  This seems like an endoscope view.   I've never actually seen the cap.  However you did this, good job.

[FlyingDude]

Thanks guys for the precious info.

I have 2 questions:

- can you reuse the crush gasket? (My order is still in the mail, and we had to move the annual up by a week)

- anybody done this without removing the bottom cowl? That's a job in itself...

Thanks

 

[takair]

16 minutes ago, FlyingDude said:

Thanks guys for the precious info.

I have 2 questions:

- can you reuse the crush gasket? (My order is still in the mail, and we had to move the annual up by a week)

- anybody done this without removing the bottom cowl? That's a job in itself...

Thanks

 

I may know a person who has reused a crush washer once or twice.  You are not supposed to, but sometimes there is a little crush left in them.  I rarely remove the bottom cowl...you can get to almost everything without removing it.  I’ve even done the exhaust a few times without removing it.  Keeps the accordion to the fuel servo in good shape.   Remove the heater scat to gain best access to the oil screen.

[FlyingDude]

31 minutes ago, takair said:

I’ve even done the exhaust a few times without removing it.

As in, you removed the heat exchanger shroud for inspection while the bottom cowl was in?

 

[takair]

1 hour ago, FlyingDude said:

As in, you removed the heat exchanger shroud for inspection while the bottom cowl was in?

 

I’ve replaced the entire exhaust with it in place...it’s a “pick your poison” scenario.

[RobertGary1]

6 hours ago, takair said:

I may know a person who has reused a crush washer once or twice.  You are not supposed to, but sometimes there is a little crush left in them.  I rarely remove the bottom cowl...you can get to almost everything without removing it.  I’ve even done the exhaust a few times without removing it.  Keeps the accordion to the fuel servo in good shape.   Remove the heater scat to gain best access to the oil screen.

I always avoid removing the lower cowl. It’s also why people have to keep replacing their intake boots. It’s rough on the boot. 

[EricJ]

7 hours ago, FlyingDude said:

Thanks guys for the precious info.

I have 2 questions:

- can you reuse the crush gasket? (My order is still in the mail, and we had to move the annual up by a week)

Crush gaskets are generally one-time use, so, no.  The split side goes to the non-rotating surface, so in this case the sump.

 

7 hours ago, FlyingDude said:

- anybody done this without removing the bottom cowl? That's a job in itself...

Thanks

 

Get yerself a J model.   Easy to remove the cowl. 

[ArtVandelay]

- anybody done this without removing the bottom cowl? That's a job in itself...

If you remove the oil filter, and have 2 magnetos I think you can reach down from the top but it still looks like it would be challenging.

[PT20J]

Lycoming SB 480F specifies tightening 135 deg.

[PT20J]

Anyone know why Lycoming specifies food grade anti-sieze for the suction screen plug?

[201Steve]

2 hours ago, PT20J said:

Anyone know why Lycoming specifies food grade anti-sieze for the suction screen plug?

It’s a great place to store skittles and M&M’s if you get hungry on a long weather layover. 

[FlyingDude]

Well, I did it. Removing and redoing safety wire was the biggest challenge. I could access the bolt from underneath, without removing the bottom cowl. You can stick in the wrench from many places but only 1 place allowed me to turn it as needed... Well, now I know. Took me 3 hrs. Of which, 30min for removing, cleaning and reinstalling the screen. I think next time would take me 1-1.5 hrs. 

 

Thanks for your insight. It really helped.

Edited March 20, 2021 by FlyingDude

[hammdo]

5 hours ago, PT20J said:

Anyone know why Lycoming specifies food grade anti-sieze for the suction screen plug?

No metal in the food grade version...

-Don

[hammdo]

FYI, This is permatex version everyone sees, note the content blend:

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80078-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Bottle/dp/B000FW7VGE

• A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper, and graphite lubricants that is salt, corrosion, and moisture resistant

-Don

[MikeOH]

1 hour ago, hammdo said:

No metal in the food grade version...

-Don

I struggle with if this is the real reason for using 'food grade'.

First, how much metal can possibly be in the tiny amount put on the threads? Second, how much of that small amount is actually going to get into the engine. oil? Finally, what damage is that tiny amount going to do considering the particle size?

Granted, I don't have a better explanation

[carusoam]

+1 No re-using crush gaskets....  they can be purchased by the dozens...

+1 on proper installation...

+1 When you get to star washers... Do Not re-use them either...

File this under things you can probably get away with one time...

But when the engine runs out of oil while you are still flying it... you will remember this discussion...   

PP thoughts only, not a mechanic...

Best regards,

-a-