Northern Mooniac Posted June 18, 2017 Report Posted June 18, 2017 Hi Everyone, i'm trying to work out some bugs on my new plane. On takeoff I climb out between 100 and 110 kts. with cowl flaps open and I will get temps over 400 degrees only on that cylinder. i'm running 38in manifold and 2700 rpm, full mixture for the climb. I do have gami injectors, new tempest fine wire plugs and just had the fuel flow adjusted to 24 gph at 40in on the ground. After the climb when I set for cruise all my temps are perfect. I set for 33.4in 2300rpm and 1475 TIT. she just purrrrrs along. I'm planning on calling gami, maybe that #1 cylinder injector needs to be tweaked from more, or maybe look at the baffles. I just figured I can't be the first person that deal with this. The picture with the aspen shows the climb and the 410 degree cyl temp, the second shows in cruise and all the normal temps.
N201MKTurbo Posted June 18, 2017 Report Posted June 18, 2017 That doesn't look like anything to worry about. Why do you have the red line set to 400? Isn't it actually at 460?
takair Posted June 18, 2017 Report Posted June 18, 2017 The first question will be the condition of the baffles and baffle seals. It could be as simple as baffle seals being flipped the wrong way when the cowl was put on.
bradp Posted June 18, 2017 Report Posted June 18, 2017 If baffle seals look airtight consider the Baby bottle test.
whiskytango Posted June 18, 2017 Report Posted June 18, 2017 1 hour ago, takair said: The first question will be the condition of the baffles and baffle seals. It could be as simple as baffle seals being flipped the wrong way when the cowl was put on. I have a similar problem, but it is the #2 cylinder running about 20 degrees hotter than all the rest. How can I tell if the baffle seals are in the correct position?
Guest Posted June 18, 2017 Report Posted June 18, 2017 Contact Guy at CSOBeech and buy a set of his pre cut baffle sealing tapes and replace yours. Make them as tight as a bulls butt in fly season. Placing a light behind the back baffles then reinstalling the top cowl will reveal the leaks. Clarence
M20F Posted June 18, 2017 Report Posted June 18, 2017 Is it a new problem or an old problem. You mention Gami's, resetting fuel flow, etc. Has it been the same through all this, different, etc.
Northern Mooniac Posted June 18, 2017 Author Report Posted June 18, 2017 Newish, I had a jpi700 but now I have the 830 and I can really see it as an issue. Before the gamis it was really bad
jackn Posted June 18, 2017 Report Posted June 18, 2017 Couple observations. Your oil pressure seems a bit on the low side. My oil in climb & cruise is always at 50 psi. The 1 cylinder is right above the turbo. 18.3 gph at 34.5" seems too lean to me. My cruise climb numbers are 32"&2600 rpm, burning 18.5 gph. Full power, but I have 220 hp, is 39" & 2600 burning 25gph.
jackn Posted June 18, 2017 Report Posted June 18, 2017 (edited) 5 hours ago, whiskytango said: I have a similar problem, but it is the #2 cylinder running about 20 degrees hotter than all the rest. How can I tell if the baffle seals are in the correct position? If you're talking about your K, my #2 had an original gasket type probe. Once I replaced with a Jpi bayonet, temps came in line. Edited June 18, 2017 by jackn 1
Marcopolo Posted June 19, 2017 Report Posted June 19, 2017 I agree with Jack, With a diff temp of 50 degrees I don't think its a particular cylinder issue. I climb at 33" 2600rpm with a fuel flow closer to 19-19.2gph and rarely see 380 in the climb on a hot day. At 40" 2700rpm I think you need to be closer to 24.5-24.9gph and I believe @kortopates suggests adding an additional .5 to the maint manual numbers. Ron
Northern Mooniac Posted July 5, 2017 Author Report Posted July 5, 2017 On 6/18/2017 at 10:07 AM, M20Doc said: Contact Guy at CSOBeech and buy a set of his pre cut baffle sealing tapes and replace yours. Make them as tight as a bulls butt in fly season. Placing a light behind the back baffles then reinstalling the top cowl will reveal the leaks. Clarence Do you have some contact info for him. that website is a bit confusing. I can't find contact info for anyone named guy?
Northern Mooniac Posted July 5, 2017 Author Report Posted July 5, 2017 Found it! Here's a link in case someone else is curious. http://www.csobeech.com/baffle-seal.html
Tommy Posted July 5, 2017 Report Posted July 5, 2017 +1 for CSO Beech. 410F is definitely high particularly considering you are climbing at 120knots.
211º Posted July 5, 2017 Report Posted July 5, 2017 Building on what Marcopolo said, I discovered that my #3 was connected to a sparkplug ring type sensor with the probe attached to the factor CHT - See link below. Later in flight, I verified my assumptions by seeing (and photographing) #3 Factory CHT being in line with the JPI 1, 2, and 4 sensors. Hope this is helpful.
Bob_Belville Posted July 5, 2017 Report Posted July 5, 2017 LQQ, since the temp for #1 is in line with the other 5 in cruise I would not think the problem is primarily the baffles. My first guess would be that the injector on that #1 cylinder does not achieve full flow at t.o. power. GAMI should be able to comment and I'd want to carefully inspect and flow check that injector. But I fly a simple little E model so what do I know?
Northern Mooniac Posted July 5, 2017 Author Report Posted July 5, 2017 I ordered the Baffles from bee gee, i'll try that and then do a flow test next. it's *hot* here today and it did the same thing. Its either baffles or that gami injector. So i'll try the baffles first and i'll call gami.
tony Posted July 5, 2017 Report Posted July 5, 2017 For what its worth I had a similar problem as you, except it was my number two cylinder that acted up. The baffles were all sealed up good with high temp silicon but I could see some light coming through the cowl to baffle seal when shinning a light from underneath. So I ordered those baffles. The baffles worked great. Brought down 1,3,and 4 CHTs except the number 2 cylinder problems didn't improve. It took me a while with lots of trials, however in the end what I did was removed a bead of the silicon that was in front of the number 2 cylinder. By removing the silicon it created an 1/8 inch gap and allowed air flow past the front of the cylinder, it dropped my CHT in line with the other three.
carusoam Posted July 6, 2017 Report Posted July 6, 2017 @GEE-BEE why go to so far When guy can be contacted here? Best regards, -a-
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