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Posted
22 hours ago, N1395W said:

Dave/Teejay- welcome to the joys of working on Mooneys.  This is why what should be a 20 minute job becomes a 90 minute job and explains why the safety wire on many suction screens is still painted Lycoming Grey.

The screen itself is only a few inches long and it will come out without removing the engine or magneto.  The threaded end cap pulls off the screen and that allows the maneuverability needed to get it out of the engine compartment.

Safety wiring is the next issue, but patience and practice are the keys.  I also recommend a safety wiring tool like this:

image.jpeg

 

Found similar tools for CB club members:

http://www.yardstore.com/safety-wire-twister-combo-includes-6-quot-18-quot-tool.html

Yves

  • Like 1
Posted
8 hours ago, teejayevans said:


BTW, I don't know if it matters but I have 2 mags, as oppose to the dual mag, so access path might be different.

I have two mags too. What access path do you use?

Posted
I have two mags too. What access path do you use?

Look at the picture M20Doc posted, with oil filter removed, from the left side it's a straight shot, but As I mentioned I thought the firewall might interfere with removal, I would measure the clearance first.

Posted
1 hour ago, teejayevans said:

Look at the picture M20Doc posted, with oil filter removed, from the left side it's a straight shot, but As I mentioned I thought the firewall might interfere with removal, I would measure the clearance first.

Actually, not so straight. What's missing from that picture is the prop governor. It is mounted directly between the filter and the screen plug. It also seems like the firewall would interfere too me as well, particularly given the length of the screen, but others here say it's not a problem.

Posted
Actually, not so straight. What's missing from that picture is the prop governor. It is mounted directly between the filter and the screen plug. It also seems like the firewall would interfere too me as well, particularly given the length of the screen, but others here say it's not a problem.

Shows what I know, I would have expected the prop governor to be on the front, close to the prop ?!
Posted

There is room to remove it, when I clean the screen on mine I did it from the right side of the aircraft, I cant remember if the intake runner (tube) was installed or if I removed it. The screen did have some carbon in it, the crush gasket was damaged and was a source of one of my oil leaks.

Posted
On September 30, 2016 at 6:51 PM, gsxrpilot said:

One solution for the mess is to put a gallon size ziplock bag over the filter before it's removed. Spin the filter off and let it and any loose oil to fall into the bag.

Yeah I'm a Baggie man also plus I punch drain holes in the filter 

  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 9/30/2016 at 6:51 PM, gsxrpilot said:

One solution for the mess is to put a gallon size ziplock bag over the filter before it's removed. Spin the filter off and let it and any loose oil to fall into the bag.

I started doing this after seeing Oil Filter Bib product.  I thought Gallon zip lock bag!  Funny.  Works great, put around lip on engine case pull up on back to form seal, remove filter.   

Posted
4 minutes ago, Grandmas Flying Couch said:

I started doing this after seeing Oil Filter Bib product.  I thought Gallon zip lock bag!  Funny.  Works great, put around lip on engine case pull up on back to form seal, remove filter.   

it only works marginally well.  Spinning the filter inside the bag is harder than it seems it should be and coats the inside with oil and is kind of slippery.  I still usually get some on the firewall. 

Posted

I do cold oil changes.   There is not nearly as much oil in the filter if it's been sitting, and what does come out doesn't run everywhere.   Last time I just put a plastic shopping bag around the filter and that captured all of what little came out.

It's very easy this way.   The main downside seems to be that the drain time is very long.   If you plan for it it's not a big deal.

 

Posted
2 hours ago, EricJ said:

I do cold oil changes.   There is not nearly as much oil in the filter if it's been sitting, and what does come out doesn't run everywhere.   Last time I just put a plastic shopping bag around the filter and that captured all of what little came out.

It's very easy this way.   The main downside seems to be that the drain time is very long.   If you plan for it it's not a big deal.

 

I do the same thing changing it cold. I'll stuff a couple cloths under the filter and put a plastic bag over it to spin it off into. I usually only get a couple spots of oil on the rags. I start the oil draining and then move on to cleaning/rotating plugs and topping off the water in the battery. By the time I am done with that the oil is completely drained and I can take the filter off.

This was the oil that dripped as I pulled the filter off two oil changes ago, none made it past the rags.

20171030_210010.thumb.jpg.dc172eb0301ba9035c77ba3c80c3ebc8.jpg

  • Like 1

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