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If you have that much fuel flow the best thing for you to do would be to climb full power full rich cowl flaps open. Your plane will thank you for it. I can’t count how many of those full power climbs I made on the old engine in my plane. Hundreds, and some were from 1,000, which is ground level around here, to 21 or 23. I climb at 500 fpm to keep the airspeed and therefore the cooling up. That meant operating at full power for 40-45 minutes on occasion. Never hurt the engine. It made it to 2300 hrs and probably would have gone further, but it was just time to replace the 22 y.o. engine. Breaking in a new one now. Pilots and mechanics are figuring out that it’s a really good little engine. Sure, it has its quirks because we have to manage MP all the time. But the reputation it earned in the early days from running at peak and pushing the CHTs high was simply not valid, we had to learn how to run it right. Thank you GAMI and the other experts who taught us that. The biggest challenge is the high hot climb, in other words, climbing out of a western town into the flight levels in the middle of the summer. When I tried a cruise climb for that years ago the temps were really bad. Seems counterintuitive, but the solution is to put in more power and full fuel, which gets the fuel flow up to max. Even then sometimes there would be one cylinder that would get up around 410, not ideal. I have had new baffling put in and so far it is helping with the cooling issue quite a bit.

First of all - This is not a project that can be done in a weekend. The more you get into it the more you will find to do. If I am not mistaken posted below are pics of your plane interior (1985 M20J) from the Aircraft.com advertisement in 2021 when you purchased it. It is similar to mine except you have individual rear seats. The panels are cheap "Royalite" ABS. Over 40 years of sun and heat it gets brittle. If yours was hangared and up north its entire life it might be in better shape than a plane sitting in the sun down south. As @Elias says, you can expect to inflict damage as you remove the panels - bending will crack or break them. I know from experience because I have removed and reinstalled mine so many times that I can't recall. You have lots of good suggestions here. But what are your intentions as @Elias wondered? Do you plan on just fixing cracks? There are other topics on the choice of adhesives. Personally, I have always used 5 minute epoxy and some fiber glass fabric on the back of the panels but others have their favorites - that is a whole different discussion. Do you plan to paint all the pieces? Have you looked at the insulation? - I assume SB 208 was done SBM20-208B.pdf (mooney.com) You may find new corrosion on the tubulars depending on when 208 was done and how well they treated everything You may find old insulation in the hat rack or in the ceiling panel that you want to replace The windlace around the door and backage door looks worn - do you plan to replace? That is a bitch of a job with even more smaller screws and the only time to do it is when the entire interior is out. Just a thought before you launch into this - Winter is the worst time to do this. The ABS is less forgiving in cold weather (i.e. will crack easier), even in Houston. Paint dries slower. Glue/epoxy sets slower As @LANCECASPER said take lots of pictures first both before starting and each step of the way As @Hank says bag and label separately by panel or section everything that you remove/dissemble. Remove the glare shield Remove the front seats Remove the rear seats (yours are different than mine so I don't know the procedure) Remove the shoulder harnesses - ( don't lose the spacers or washers - keep the belts separated) Remove the hatrack face - then pull out the base. The curved top in the hat rack is a problem because the piece with the coat rack hook is in the way (it covers the air ducts I recall that I had to curve the center top down more in order for it to clear the duct cover. Remove the long leather covered strips on both sides. On the pilot side remove and bag all the screws Pull up the leather covered armrest - there is a hidden screw under the armrest (that goes into an aluminum bracket) that will prevent you from pulling the panel out. There is an "H" shaped spacer between and holding the front pilot side panel and the rear pilot side panel You will need to remove the screws in the rear panel in order to allow you to bend it forward a bit so that the front panel lose from the H channel - if not you may crack both panels - originally it was flexible enough to twist but not likely now. The screws that go through both panels where they overlap and through the long lower panel are longer and thicker Over 40 years owners/shops may have mixed up or replaced them with longer sharply pointed screws Be extremely careful with long sharp screws on the side panels - avionics cabling may be run and strapped along the tubulars I had an avionics shop do some work where they removed the pilot side panels and during re-installation of the side panel, they drove a long screw right into a cable. Also over 40 years, screws going through the overlaping ABS panels or lower panel that used to bite, may have wallowed out the back panel hole and lost their bite. I have glued Tinnerman nuts on the back the last panel in order to get a strong bite on the screws. The copilot side panels are similar. The door panels are pretty easy. If you have headset jacks in the rear panels be careful when removing the panel and disconnecting the jacks. After you take out the side panels, you will find a white U shape channel around each window opening Over time it may have shrunk some and gotten pretty hard Remove the U channel if painting the side panels (referred to as "beading" in next post/links) Keep track of which channel goes to which window opening. - with time they only want to fit the one they came off The channel gives some strength to the ABS panel framing the window - when it is removed it is easier to crack the ABS frame. You can put new U channel on if you want - I did it once - now I just push the old channel back on after making a repair to the ABS panel. The headliner panels are almost a 2 person job. The problem, as @RoundTwo pointed out, is that only a few screws hold them up. If you disconnect the front screws, and not the rear screws simultaneously (on either headliner section), the weight of the headliner will bend it down and may crack/break the two connections still attached. I have used some long cardboard bent in an L or sticks to prop up one side while working on the other when working alone. Before removing the front headliner you have to remove the panel with the air flow selector (4 screws but you have to disassemble the airflow selector switch) As the front headliner comes down you need to disconnect the headliner lights, the speaker and the Sonalerts (may be as many as 4 alerts) You also have to remove the two front duct connectors. DON'T LET THE HEADLINERS FALL OR YOU WILL RIP OUT DUCT AND WIRING The rear has lights and two duct connectors. The luggage area panels also come out - side and headliner with one exception. That panel around the ducts where the coat rack hook is, will bend down but not come off. It appears to be riveted to the fuselage skin on the pilot side - I could not remove it. I had to paint it in place masking off the rest of the interior and making a "spray booth tent" around it. Reinstallation is a reverse of the process. Tip - get a narrow awl to help align holes during re-assembly. The headliner holes are a real bitch to align while you are balancing everything in the air. AFTER THE HEADLINERS ARE BACK IN PLACE, TEST THE LIGHTS, SPEAKER AND SONALERTS AND AIR SELECTOR BEFORE REINSTALLING THE SIDE PANELS I predict, that if you start this job and only work on weekends and maybe a few nights, plan to have your plane down for a month. You may find corrosion on the tubulars that needs attention. You may want to do something more to your insulation. You will break things - especially the plastic - requiring more gluing and repainting. @RoundTwo - how long did it take you? Here is a video and a couple MS posts with pics that may help. Some of the posts include discussion of panel upgrades but they have a lot of pics of the interior out. Good luck.

I have really enjoyed volunteering at Young Eagles events - a lot of the kids are interested in aviation but have zero exposure to it, and it's rewarding (to me, anyway) to create a positive first impression with flight. Many of the kids have never been in *any* airplane before, much less a single-engine piston, so you have an opportunity to dispel a lot of fears. I often think that if one kid goes on to a career in aviation, it's been worth the effort.

You can get generic cargo nets at places like Harbor Freight. I'm a fan of cargo nets, but I don't currently have anything in place. I'd like to, though. I'm not sure how to anchor it in my airplane, but that's a solvable problem. I inadvertently spun my airplane when doing airwork and reviewing stalls, from a very nose-high attitude. It rolls over on its back and goes straight down, similar to what a C-150 does when you spin it (which I've done, many, many times). When I got home I did the usual thing and opened the hatch to get the tow bar, and the tow bar and a bunch of other stuff was gone. I was very puzzled...where did the tow bar go? It and a bunch of other crap that is usually in the hatch was all in the back seat. If the tow bar can get in the back seat under certain conditions, it can get further forward, and I don't ever want to get hit in the back of the head by the tow bar or anything else. So, yeah, a net is not a bad idea at all.

Thanks for all the suggestions. The avionics shop resolved this, it was the electrical connector on the switch that wasn’t seated properly as I understand it. Happy because I was resigned to dropping 1 AMU on a new switch…

I dropped off my plane at the avionics shop last week for a major upgrade. The shop is close enough for me to visit on a regular basis, so I will update this thread with pictures and progress reports. Below is a pic of the current panel. I have: Aspen 1000 Pro (not max) with AoA and Synthetic Vision Garmin G-5 Garmin GTN-650Xi with FS-510 Garmin GTX-345 King KMA-24 Audio Panel King KAP-1150 Auto Pilot with KAS-287B altitude preselect JPI-830 King KX nav/com (can't remember which one) Planned setup Garmin G3X Touch 10" with EIS Garmin G-5 backup (from above) GTN-750Xi (FS-510 moved from 650 to 750) GTN-650Xi (from above) GTX-345R (remote) PS Engineering 450B Audio Panel Garmin GFC-500 Autopilot with trim and yaw damper AirGizmos AERA 760 dock for right side Alpha Eagle AOA indicator Replacing rocker switches with toggle switches Whelen Light Pulser Original project start was Jan 8, but will be slightly delayed due to a plane ahead of mine having some parts issues. Projected to take 8 - 10 weeks. Also having a nearby shop redo the interior while it is out of the airplane for this work. Picture below of current interior and also the materials for the interior work. In the materials picture, the bottom sample is the carpet, the middle is the seat fabric, and the top is the leather for the side panels and sides and backs of the seats. I am going with cloth seats as they are cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. The plastic parts will be repaired and painted, not covered in ultraleather. Yokes will be leather wrapped. Should be an interesting journey.

It’s not just pax or taxiing into a bizjet. If you land off field in someone’s soybeans, they’ll want their $$. Soybeans are probably cheap though, right? What if you land in the Walmart parking lot and bend some cars, street lighting and god forbid hurt someone? The point is, there are many scenarios where you’re liable for damages and injuries that are hard to accept/anticipate. Some of them might be really expensive. Insurance is to cover things that would be a financial catastrophe for you. If you want to forgo hull insurance, that might be fine because you know the limits of your loss. Liability? Potential claims could be very much bigger than what you anticipate in your C-140 with no passengers…

I have had four adults plus an infant and bags to the ceiling. I was uncomfortable with bags above seat level but everything was soft and light. I’m more conservative now and would like a retainer separating the cargo from the soft squishy bits.

In my case it was because I was very stupid. I'd been doing some maneuvers at a moderate power setting, about half to two-thirds throttle, and decided to do a stall in clean configuration. The nose was very high, way higher than I expected and I realized it was because I still had throttle on, so I pulled it off. I think about a millisecond into my action of pulling the throttle back I realized, "Oh, wait, this is very stupid...", but it was too late at that point.

They all stall at high deck angles under full power.

People often ask which is better: ForeFlight or Garmin Pilot. I have used both, though I haven't used Pilot for a few years. The apps may be similar but ForeFlight tech support is miles ahead of Garmin's. They answer my email, usually within a few hours, and almost always point me to a solution to my problem on the first try.

Well, the problem came back: iPad and Garmin equipment show paired and connected but ForeFlight doesn't recognize the Garmin devices (GTX 345, G3X). I contacted the excellent ForeFlight support team and Justin suggested that the problem might be that I migrated the ForeFlight app from the old iPad using the iCloud backup. He suggested deleting it and reloading it from the App store. Most settings remain - I did have to change a few options on the map an download the nav data. But this did fix the problem. Skip

I heard from a member of the safety foundation and just read in the Mooney Flyer of Ted. He was a wonderful person and great Mooney pilot, teacher and ambassador for the Mooney community. I’ve been attending their safety program for years, the first encounter and instructor was with Ted. A soft voiced guy, helped teach me how to fly our machines. Kinda of depicted stuff I had no clue about including life stuff. He will be greatly missed among Mooney pilots. I’m a better pilot and person due to people like Ted. We will miss you Ted. RIP

The shaft in the switch was corroded pretty badly. Just broke when pulling out

Did you contact the door manufacturer?

Shouldn’t but what the heck it’s rusted easy and inexpensive, due to the rust it ought to be replaced anyway. Assuming the motor sounds normal, my bet is the drive is slipping, sheared key or something, it ought to be real easy to see. I don’t think it’s the gears, if you broke a gear you can tell from the noise it makes, but it could be a gear slipping on its shaft

Lets see, we have: Cabo San Lucas International and San Jose del Cabo/Los Cabos International See the confusion in referring to just "Cabo"?

Here are a couple more topics with pictures that show interior panel repair - one is an F but essentially the same as yours. The others address the window "beading" - the strip that you say is silver on yours. You can't really over tighten the screws. The ABS panel deforms to match the aluminum tabs behind the flimsy ABS panel. The beading has probably shrunk from sun and heat. The link to the beading - Window Beading (vantageassoc.com) - the wide part goes on the back side - as you curve it around the window corners you may need to make a couple cuts on the back side so the it can make the radius. If it is warm enough it may stretch. The Kick panels that move an inch when pressed are because the hole in the kick panel is worn out. Some just start using larger diameter screws. I suppose you could build it up with epoxy and redrill - But I glued a Tinnerman nut behind the panel for strength. Every panel will need its own "TLC". It is more like art.... Regarding the DME coax, you said it is laying in the belly. It sounds like you need to remove the belly panel and reconnect it. I don't understand what you mean about the coax behind the side panels unless it is damaged by a screw in the side and needs to be replaced.

So how much damage can a scooter do traveling at 70 knots to your noggin?

I'm in....

There is really nothing to hook to in the ceiling without welding in some tabs. On my Ovation the back baggage wall is a no go. Really not strong enough. I added some D rings to the aft floor straps. I bring those up vertical against the back wall when I load baggage and place a 3'x2' cargo net over the top attached to the aft straps and the rear shoulder harness mounts. Between the net and the seat backs the baggage is restrained. Recently I had a situation where I had to fold down the rear seats. I obtained a 3'x6' cargo net from Amazon. I attached to the rear baggage floor straps per usual, made a mid point restraint on the aft shoulder harness mounts, then used 5/32" D shackles from West Marine attached to the inboard front seat tracks and secured the cargo net forward there. There are holes in the inboard seat tracks made for the D shackles and I have just left the shackles in place as they don't interfere with seat operation except during seat removal. Safari Straps used to be my go to place for custom cargo nets but Covid killed their business. There are others but Amazon seems to have some good vendors. Sadly, I believe all the GA manufacturers really suck on cargo restraint. A few tabs or hard points in manufacture would really help.

That seems to be the right thing for Continental's TSIO engines. Control temperature with pitch.

I flew to Halifax and then Newfoundland this past summer. It was my first use of the customs sticker. It took some reading to orient myself to the procedures for EAPIS and NavCanada, but it’s actually not very onerous at all once you wrap your head around the steps. I could easily throw together the paperwork for a flight back there in not much longer than it would take to file for any other IFR flight, now that I’ve had some practice. The customs folks were nice on both sides (cleared by phone arriving in Halifax, and had a very cursory chat with a friendly officer at Bangor coming home). ATC was great and IFR procedures were 99% similar (but do read up on the differences). Also had to shell out for the North America nav databases. The only truly painful part was that 100LL at Deer Lake (CYDF) came out to over $12USD/gal and the ramp fees were equally inflated. Halifax was not as bad, and close enough to tanker fuel from the US. Overall it was a great experience and I’ve already ordered my 2024 sticker in anticipation of going back to Halifax this summer. Edit to add that I would highly recommend subscribing to international XM weather for the trip, as there is no ADS-B weather up there. It’s easy to take ADS-B for granted stateside. During the somewhat remote leg up to CYDF with “gentleman’s IMC” along the way, it was reassuring to confirm things weren’t changing for the worse at my destination. It was easy to subscribe to the international version of XM weather for a month, then downgrade again afterwards. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

FWIW I’ve heard from two different well regarded shops that they’ve had nothing but trouble with the Electroair. Even when working, they reported that it failed to deliver on speed/efficiency improvements (compared to advertised, as well as compared to their experience with SureFly). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The other conversation regarding statistics dovetails nicely here… So perhaps 70% of accidents and fatalities were over 65. is this a function of age, or is it a function of people old enough to have disposable income but don’t stay proficient? I don’t know the answer, but I can tell you this, I know a lot of 65 year olds I would feel more comfortable flying with than 25 year olds. If you are 65, fly 10 hours a year, have high blood pressure and are obese, is it the same as a 65 year old who flies 300 hours a year, fit and in perfect health? Guess what….the insurance thinks so….

Take a spare switch location and put in a second master switch in series with the original. Label it something like dome light or something. They will never figure it out.

Don't know about you but I am poor BECAUSE I own a plane...100% of nothing is still nothing lol

I take pilots all the time to Mexico, usually as a day trip to San Felipe to get their entry permit and go through all the procedures in both directions. Then after having gone thorough the process, the pilot is ready to take their family down without the stress.

Auto insurance companies charge more for younger drivers and older drivers and auto insurance is much more regulated than aviation insurance. Auto insurers allowed to require a medical exam for older drivers. Insurance underwriting is discernment and some might call it "discriminatory" on many underwriting factors. One insurance company flat out won't cover non-hangared planes in many coastal states. Aviation insurers don't have the large numbers. But there's no reason to think that just because someone is in an airplane rather than a car at an older age that their skills aren't subject to decline. Check out Wilson vs. Associated Aviation Underwriters where the there was an attempt at employment and housing regulation to be imposed on insurance underwriting. https://caselaw.findlaw.com/court/ca-court-of-appeal/1846912.html Insurance as a viable product cannot survive if consumers demand that the exceptions dictate the rule...

I fly with my CFI monthly to keep me sharp. We do various approaches and task saturation events to keep me on ‘edge’. He is a King Air instructor and evaluator so he has a high standard. He’ll let me know if I’m not on my game. I find that to be a good way for me to gauge. Since I also deal with software architectures and lots of math/designing as my everyday job, that helps keep the mind very active. Flying often has really helped me now that I’m in my 60s. Quarterly Medical’s with my Primary (full workups) and twice yearly exams with my specialists keep me in check. I’m very aware of what age related issues arise so I know it will eventually come time to stop flying. I’m doing what I can to keep sharp and in shape. It takes more work as we age just to maintain what we have currently have. I fly 100+ hours a year and at least weekly (when not down for maintenance). Been doing that the last 3 years and getting my Instrument rating really pushed me. I also do monthly FAA Safety classes/programs. It’s a lot of work but I love flying and want to do it for as long as I can. MAPA - did that 2 years ago and plan on this year since it’s in Texas again. -Don

Great idea to take a multitude of pictures while removing the interior. They will come in handy when re-assembling.

I'm really hoping for Montreal, Monterrey and Bahamas

I agree statistics and testing are a powerful tool, but I’m just finishing my masters in economics, and the last class I had on econometrics was disheartening. There are so many pitfalls, methods, tests, choices, and grey areas that it seems like two things happen… either the researcher can make the end result say what they like (to a certain extent) or someone with less experience will just muff a very complicated situation and draw the wrong conclusions. Omitted variable bias and selection bias are easy ones to understand and see how they screw up everything. In the end, I feel like it’s the experience and impartiality of the researchers as much as the data they have.

Old joke. Company is hiring a statistician. Three make the cut to be interviewed. First one comes in and the manager asks, "What does 2 plus 2 equal?" The candidate says "4 of course." Second one comes in and is asked the same questions and also answers 4. The third one comes in and is asked the question. He gets up and closes and locks the door. He closes the window shades. He turned out the overhead light. He sits back down and leans across the desk and whispers, "what do you want it to be?" Quess which one got the job?

231 with a TSIO-360-MB here. Full power climb, 2700 RPM and 36" MP, at 120+ KIAS leads to lower CHTs, lower TIT, quicker climb to altitude, less fuel burned overall, and shorter trip time overall compared to "cruise climb" which is in the POH and was formerly taught to be 2500 RPM and 32" MP. I no longer use "cruise climb" settings on initial climb out. I will use it if I need to go up 3-4 thousand feet in cruise for some reason just to avoid major configuration changes. In noise sensitive areas, decreasing RPM to 2500 supposedly reduces 90% or more of the noise your plane is putting out, so there's one reason to pull it back shortly after takeoff. I've also heard it said that RPM = wear, and so running lower RPM in the climb is better for your engine. That makes some sense to me. But, in my particular plane, I do not believe the decrease in revolutions is enough to offset the increased temperatures and additional minutes added to the trip that result from reducing RPM for the climb.

Those are words to live by. @McMooney you should definitely take the leap and fly internationally this year. Bring some patience and an openminded attitude, and you will open an exciting new chapter in your flying career.

That is for the -KB variant used in Seneca 3 and 4. I don't think these were ever used in Mooneys.

Green 500 to go Yellow 200 to go Red Minimums.

This is a strange story and I know you guys will smack me down if you think my expectations were out of line, so here it goes: I had a rather bizarre experience at IFR6. IFR6 is a school that specializes in immersive IFR training and other endorsements / ratings for pilots. IFR6 has a one-week IFR program that culminates with a check ride. I did my cross country 2 days before the check ride and was not happy with my proficiency. The school is in Charleston and I had failed to consider the implications of December weather in a city on the coast. My skills were not up to par with the wind and turbulence. That is 100% on me. The day after my cross country was the last day before my check ride and I noticed I was 8 hours short of the 40 needed for a check ride. I do feel that part of what I was paying for was the school managing my time but I’ll take responsibility and say that is also 100% on me for not keeping up on my hours throughout the week. I had asked what a path to success looked like the morning before my check ride and the response was, we would fly off the 8 hours today. It was another day of 20 to 30 knots at 3000 ft and my head was not in the right place to receive instruction. I asked to come back for my checkride prep and checkride but that got a quick denial. We spoke for about 20 or 30 minutes and I was being pressured to stay and was offered to return in Feb or Mar for my checkride. For some reason, the longer we were in the conference room the more contentious it became. But why - I wrote IFR6 a $6,500 check and had not asked or implied I wanted any money back. I declined the delayed checkride, put on my coat and left. I was walking to the FBO to leave and never to be heard from again. This is where it got even stranger. On my walk to the FBO, my CFII calls me and asks to have a few pages out of my syllabus. These were pages that we had both initialed indicating training received. I can’t put my finger on why, but I had become suspicious. I told the CFII that I would think about it. After entering the FBO, I got another call from one of the people who runs the place. I told her, I was talking to the lady at the FBO desk and to give me a minute. She hung up on me and immediately drove down to the FBO. She confronts me at the FBO desk, demanding the papers and stating that they had to be turned in to the FAA (I’ve already spoken to the FSDO, there is nothing to turn in to the FAA). I again declined handing them over and that they were already in my plane. She then loudly (I’m not easily embarrassed) proclaims that I have her property in my plane and demands access to the ramp. The FBO denied her access and assured me no one would be given access to my plane. It was so bad, I took my phone out of my pocket and was about to call 911. I knew that would just escalate the situation and decided instead to disengage. The IFR6 person then offers to refund my checkride fee ($500) in return for the pages. I still decline. Fast forward a couple days, I’m now home and the CFII texts me to say he needs the papers in order to get paid. That’s much different than “they have to be turned in to the FAA”. I continue to decline. I still don’t really know what was/is going on or what happened. I was polite and cordial, never contentious. All I wanted was to return for checkride prep and a checkride. The way IFR6 treated a customer who had written them a large check a week prior was despicable. As tempting as it is, go somewhere else.

Imagine if the government, in say 1907, had tried to outlaw trains and force everyone to travel by Wright Flyer. That's where EVs are, and what D.C. is trying to do.

I have always been a performance enthusiast, I drag raced bikes professionally until I wanted to get married, I’ve road raced motorcycles recreationally, current cars are a Cadillac CTS-V, for years the fastest four door production car and a MazdaSpeed Miata, a very under appreciated track car, not blistering speed but a very well balanced car and cheap too and of course the daily driver is the Tesla. ‘I have absolutely nothing against ICE, I am a gear head, I love them, but I’m smart enough to recognize that they are being legislated out of existence and every year they get more and more expensive largely due to ever tightening pollution controls, Diesel's are a perfect example, I love Diesels but with Exhaust filters costing thousands and regeneration, Urea injection and excess EGR with EGR coolers that again cost thousands and leak coolant into the intake etc. My love is waning. Have you priced a new Diesel pickup lately? Look no further than Fords 6.4L Powerstroke, a Navistar engine to see what I mean, but Cummins and others have had and are experiencing the same or similar problems. I know I just bought a Diesel pusher Motorhome, and my concern is palatable, I may ditch it for a class C gas powered one, based on $$$ concerns with unreliable smog systems. But I’ve always also been frugal, so when the Wife was driving darn near 100 miles a day to work the CTS-V wasn’t the right car for that and suddenly there was this cash for clunkers thing, so I took our old Z28 and turned it in after stripping the NOS system off it and bought a Toyota Prius, which turned out to be a great little car, but performance? It was quicker than I expected but it was well and truly an economy box, well made, trouble free but boring as hell to drive. The Tesla is as frugal as the Prius, actually believe it or not but it’s even cheaper to drive than a Prius, and yet has great acceleration, track wise they do well based solely on HP, they could lean a lot from Mazda and maybe they will. Tesla has zip nada nothing to do with our current Government, in fact if you have been paying attention at all Elon Musk has been butting heads hard right from the beginning and at most every turn against them, in fact I’d bet he has done in actuality more than any noisy blustering politician to quell their push towards Government knows best attitudes, so any hate thrown on Tesla on what’s going on with the current administration is sorely misplaced. The man knowingly and intentionally bought Twitter for way more than it was worth knowing he was going to lose a F ton of money due to his concern of ALL the social media was grossly one sided. Was he effective? I have no idea as I don’t participate in any of that stuff. Although I figured that the day after he bought it there would be wholesale abandoning ship for the just launched new Twotter or whatever where the masses could continue to hear only what they wanted, but for some reason that didn’t happen?

I use turo to rent cars. It’s a neat concept and way cheaper than enterprise or hertz etc not to mention most rental places will not have a BMW M3 or a Porsche 911 but turo does. I rented a model X tesla and i was amazed at the instantaneous acceleration you get from the accelerator pedal. That split second it takes for an ICE to get the next full air gas mixture from it’s low rev state plus the down shift to get the rpm’s into the power zone, the X has already moved 1 to 2 car lengths away. It’s very immediate. What’s not immediate is the charging. Getting solar panels last year really woke me up to the big energy guzzlers like electric oven a/c units but those are nothing compared to the beast of energy requirement of that tesla X! It uses more power to charge than all of my other house hold devices combined! I fine it hilarious that California is making all their vehicles electric when they’re right now telling people not to use their air conditioner to cool their house because of grid overload. when all these people get electric cars to charge on the grid no one‘s gonna be able to drive anywhere! Already there are youtube videos of people lined up for blocks waiting on fast chargers. At 240 i could charge the X in 10 hours less if i don’t come home on E where as the super charger will do it in 35 mins but unlimited charges stoped with the 2020 model and i cringe what the cost would be when you have to pay. I’ll probably get a smaller tesla maybe Y version to use around the city but i like my hybrid car the best compromise of ease of quick fill up but also great miles per gallon range.

Oh, and my Bravo is now 50 pounds lighter with a slightly more forward CG. It was amazing how much weight was tied up in the wiring for the analog instruments and autopilot.

UL94 is essentially just regular avgas without the tetraethyl lead and etheylene dibromide additives From what I understand, GAMI at this point, doesn’t have a way to produce fuel in enough quantity for that kind of thing. My gut says they are trying to shield themselves from liability. GAMI is not a company that could afford to defend a high $ suit. They’re small. Personally, I think Braly is a very smart guy. If he says it will work, it probably will. He’s not a spring chicken. I don’t think he’s put this much time and money in with the plans to be the next Elon Musk. I think he did it just to prove it could be done.

How so? Control groups don't need to occur at the same time if the time displacement isn't a significant factor in the outcomes (i.e., the wear is not likely to be seasonal or different from one year to the next). They've been flying their fleet for an awful long time, so they have established trends for things like exhaust seat wear. If it changed significantly during UL94 use, and there aren't other confounding influences, then that's a significant result.

Your Ovation has superior stopping ability compared to the Rocket 305 and Missile 300 conversions. They retain the single piston brake calipers found on the lighter J and original K. They are marginal at best with the added weight of the TSIO-520 or IO-550. And if the Rocket/Missile is loaded up anywhere near the MGW of 3,200 lbs and/or you land a little too fast they are less than awe inspiring. Sometimes it doesn’t feel like the brakes are doing anything - like they are fading - as the runway exit which the Tower wants you to exit rapidly approaches.

Here is a trick I have found to be very effective. Put the OAT probe near the exhaust and bingo you never have to worry about icing. I am always a comfortable 200 degrees and zero concerns about icing up.

They're pretty clickbait-y, and he's fond of those annoying thumbnail images that are ubiquitous on YouTube. You know the ones: usually the person's exaggerated facial expression next to some all-caps text like "NEAR-MISS with STUDENT CESSNA????" Then after sitting through a 15 minute video you find out they were, at worst, 4 nm and 2000' apart, and it was never even mentioned on frequency. Just not my thing.

Thought I would share some of my before and during interior renovations on my M20k summer project! I Just purchased 922PT several months ago with the complete understanding the interior was SHOT (as you can see below). The plastics were rotten; brittle and crumbling so I purchased all New interior from Plane Plastics. I have spoken to several whom have installed the product on 172's and other Cessna models but no one from the Mooney world. All Cessna owners swear by it, I however never what the hear the words "trimmable" again and will reserve final judgment until I'm done!! I have had to climb in and out of my Mooney 2,000 times it feels like, as to work all the "Trimmable" pieces and I'm not exactly a pilot size person LOL! In my renovations I thought it would be nice to wrap all the plastics with Leather with exception of the headliner and baggage compartment. I researched a fella from Great Britain that seems to specialize in high end leathers with modern design and off they went. I have added a few pictures he sent back of the door panels done thus far and the headliner work I've completed to date. Also adding the best sound proofing and insulation everywhere! ENJOY !!!