Hangar Floor Coating

[laytonl]

I was planning to use this product on my hangar, but decided to just put a seal coat on instead.  However, I did use this on my garage and it’s a great product.  It’s hard work to put it down but worth the effort.  I believe the  material cost was around $2.00 per sqft.  I should have done the hangar floor too.  Lee

http://www.keyresin.com/index.html

 

 

[Jim Peace]

11 hours ago, laytonl said:

I was planning to use this product on my hangar, but decided to just put a seal coat on instead.  However, I did use this on my garage and it’s a great product.  It’s hard work to put it down but worth the effort.  I believe the  material cost was around $2.00 per sqft.  I should have done the hangar floor too.  Lee

http://www.keyresin.com/index.html

 

 

I am looking for a garage product.....which one did you use,,,I see a few different ones on the site

Also how is it when it is wet?  Is there traction? 

[laytonl]

Jim, we used the epoxy version, I believe it is called 501 or 510, and we added chips for traction.  It would be extremely slippery without the chips.

 

http://www.keyresin.com/pdf/key-chip-systems-color-chart-full-broadcast.pdf

 

lee

[M20F]

I am slowly doing my floor in oil stains, like all good things it just takes time.  

[Seth otto]

Hello. I have 15years in the epoxý coating business. I respect all you and your experience. But, I will say, I cringe when reading a lot of these.

1. Avoid home depot epoxý at all coat. It’s low grade epoxý and will peel. 

2. Avoid Sherwin Williams too. They are in the wall paint business, there flooring products are better than Home Depot, but just barely. 

3. Acid washing is fine, doing it twice is better...but if you really want your coating to last, have it professionally Diamond Grinded or shot blasted. This is probably the best advice of any I can give you. 

4. Get your epoxý from a specialty epoxý supply house. Most major cities have a distributor for such products. Buy the highest percent of solids  two part epoxý you can get (100% solids is the highest and best grade).

5.  Finally: if you can afford it, have it professionally installed by a good firm with the right equipment and installation skills. 

Seth Thompson

www.TexasToughTops.com 

 

 

 

[jetdriven]

Circling back, we bought a new house a year ago, and 3 months ago we coated it with armor garage epoxy. It’s 100% solids, and topped it with their 2-part military urethane topcoat with non skid.  It’s good.  

[Eight8Victor]

On 6/30/2012 at 5:47 AM, dcrogers11 said:

  I don't mind the sweat aspect of it and will make it a family project.  

 

Don, 

i wouldn't consider exposing my family to the fumes that are given off during this process. My neighbor had his garage done and the odor was almost unbearable. We have 1/2 acre plots so his garage is a good ways from my home. I felt bad for the guy doing the work. I would have it done professionally and take your family on vacation for a couple of days while it cures.

I'll bet @Seth otto could fill you in on the MSDS info.

 

steve

Edited September 27, 2019 by Eight8Victor

[Mooneymite]

5 hours ago, Seth otto said:

 

5.  Finally: if you can afford it, have it professionally installed by a good firm with the right equipment and installation skills. 

Seth Thompson

www.TexasToughTops.com 

 

This. ^^^

When I built my hangar 20 years ago, I had my epoxy floor done by someone who was less than "really good".

I suffered with that floor for 18 years because, while adequate, it deteriorated in looks and began to separate as the years wore on.

I recently had the floor redone.  It was more expensive because the old covering had to be ground off.  Epoxy goes on a lot cheaper than what it costs to remove it.

Do it right the first time.

[DualRatedFlyer]

@dcrogers11  Would love to see what you end up doing in person, or even lend a hand if you need it.  I am a short flight over at T56 and am going to have my hanger built by the end of November.  I am also weighing my options on floor coverings and am excited to see what you end up with. 

[jetdriven]

1 hour ago, Eight8Victor said:

Don, 

i wouldn't consider exposing my family to the fumes that are given off during this process. My neighbor had his garage done and the odor was almost unbearable. We have 1/2 acre plots so his garage is a good ways from my home. I felt bad for the guy doing the work. I would have it done professionally and take your family on vacation for a couple of days while it cures.

I'll bet @Seth otto could fill you in on the MSDS info.

 

steve

100% solids epoxy has no odor at all. The urethane topcoat does have a nasty odor but it’s gone in about 24 hours. If your epoxy gives off an odor, it’s solvent-based and  it’s garbage. 
The two I have used, Durall and armor garage/armor Poxy Are 100% solids. 

Edited September 27, 2019 by jetdriven

[gsxrpilot]

This is about the time I wish my hangar wasn't so big...

[jetdriven]

Just do it, Paul. A friend of mine has a 1200 square-foot shop and we rolled everything out in three hours, rolled the clear on in about an hour and a half

[gsxrpilot]

I really need to do it. I've got right at 2000 square-feet.

[DualRatedFlyer]

54 minutes ago, jetdriven said:

100% solids epoxy has no odor at all. The urethane topcoat does have a nasty odor but it’s gone in about 24 hours. If your epoxy gives off an odor, it’s solvent-based and  it’s garbage. 
The two I have used, Durall and armor garage/armor Poxy Are 100% solids. 

Can you speak to the cost of either of those?

[RLCarter]

looking at painting the inside and outside walls this winter (corrugated barn tin) along with coating the roof to help with the heat which only leaves the floor. Finding some where to hangar both planes while the floor cures is the issue, but a painted floor sure is nice and easy clean oil spots (from the Cessna of course) 

[Eight8Victor]

11 hours ago, jetdriven said:

100% solids epoxy has no odor at all. The urethane topcoat does have a nasty odor but it’s gone in about 24 hours. If your epoxy gives off an odor, it’s solvent-based and  it’s garbage. 
The two I have used, Durall and armor garage/armor Poxy Are 100% solids. 

Good to know. Thanks. 

[201Steve]

Bumping this thread....

I'm researching hangar floor coatings. A neighbor has used the Polycuramine product, marketed as Rust Oleum Rock Solid with good results in his garage. I also had a local company quote a polyurea. The whole job is expensive... but it seems anyone who's done a coating has a lot to say about the effort. Are these poly blends better than the epoxy applications?

[Pinecone]

I build a detached garage/shop about 20 years ago.  I did the floor with U-Coat-It. https://ucoatit.com/get-started-0823/?gclid=CjwKCAjwivemBhBhEiwAJxNWN7sWjULV3s46iM91sv3Tngw6XgmCRP2FigDuDSAO3Q-2P-lZNrV6jRoC9NcQAvD_BwE

It is a water soluble expoy for easy clean up and no odor.  The first coat goes on right after you rinse from the acid wash, while the surface is still damp.  There is an additive that goes into the first coat that promotes adhesion by having that first coat soak into the top layer a bit.

I did not gloss coat mine, so it is naturally non-skid, but it is subject to some staining. But most wash out with some cleaner and scrubbing.

If you top coat, you will need to add grit.

Mine has held up great.  Not long after I painted the floor, I had a metal shelf unit that was somewhat loaded that I needed to move.  I just drug it across the floor.  There was no damage to the floor.   And so far, nothing has damaged it.  

One tip, no matter what system you use, do NOT do the flecks.  If you ever drop a small part on a flecked floor, you will spend HOURS looking for it among the flecks.