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About wpbarnar

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  1. @carusoam's request I am sharing a data dump from a Garmin G3X as a example of it ability to capture engine and flight data. The file is in Excel. The file is from a short flight I took yesterday. I departed my local airport, clicked on the A/P and let it navigate to a couple intersections nearby. At 14:19:42, I clicked off the A/P for a little sightseeing and play. At 14:30:27, The A/P went back on to fly a Garmin generated visual approach back to my home base. Bill P.S. yes the pitch, roll, and G data is real during the play mode. Don't freak out this is
  2. Have you compared the price of the Garmin engine monitor vs a JPI? There may potential saving as you can incorporate the Garmin engine monitor into the 10” G3X. I only have a single 10” display and my engine monitor is incorporated into it. The “normal” display for engine monitor is a narrow vertical column displaying RPM, MP, OIL PRESS, OIL TEMP, & Fuel. I split the screen to see EGT, CHT, Fuel flow etc for leaning. i am not concerned about lack of redundancy of not having a dedicated engine monitor screen. During practice IFR approaches, I will sometimes cover the G3X and
  3. If you are only going with one G3X screen, the 10” is much more versatile than a single 7” in portrait mode. I frequently use the capability to split the 10” screen into two screens and capitalize on the functionality of the G3X system. The two screens on a split 10” still are large enough to remain useful. Bill
  4. I experienced the exact same failure and intermittent contact in my Encore. Bill
  5. The Acclaim he is looking out has the opposite. The rear bulkhead or flight time is greater than the engine time on the G1000 by a significant amount. @OneAuburnFan what do the log books say? Airframe and engine time should both be noted. Did the difference slowly evolve over time or something else trigger it. Bill
  6. The cross over from the mains into the aux begins at approximately 50% capacity of your main tanks, at least that was the case in my Encore. (37.5 main & 15 aux) If I filled my mains and added nothing to the aux, given time the mains would equalize into the aux and the main tank level would decrease indicating about 18 gallons. The fuel level gauge would remain there until the aux was empty. I suspect there is minor differences from airplane to airplane depending on the installation. You can determine your crossover point by very slowly adding fuel to the main and observing
  7. I have a adequate amount of time in the high teens or low 20’s. to comment Maintaining warm enough engine temperature was never an issue. Thin air does not transfer heat well. I have cracked the cowl flaps at 18K’ and -10C to maintain temperature. When flying in the low FLs, I was always more concerned about ice in the fuel (and my PO2) than anything else. I can’t imagine the oil in the oil cooler congealing while attached to an operating engine. Bill
  8. I chased oil leaks on my TSIO 360 so I can speak from experience. The rocker box covers (all 12 of them) are prone to leak. They are easily distorted if over tightened, especially with silicon gaskets. If they are not dead flat on the mating surface, they never will seal. I replaced 10 of mine to stop the seeps. The push rod tubes also are prone to leaks. They are a pain to replace. If you ever have the exhaust manifold off, take the opportunity of easy access and replace the seals on any suspect tube. I also suspect you have a magneto gasket leaking as the area around o
  9. This may sound strange, but were your panel lights on when the oil pressure indicated low? If the instrument case ground is poor on the ship’s gauges, panel lights can lower your oil pressure indication. The lighting ground is acting as the instrument ground. They don’t like the shared ground. Turn your panel lights on and adjust the lighting rheostat and observe the pressure indication. If it fluctuates with rheostat movement, the instrument ground is poor. It is easy for me to spend other people’s money, but you really need a engine monitor. I don’t have a lot of confidenc
  10. They IRAN’d a MT prop for me. The cost were lower than his estimate and the prop was turned around in the time frame that he quoted. (3 weeks). I Would definitely use Jimmy G again. Bill
  11. Please note in Rick’s original post he indicated that the gear relay circuit breaker tripped, not the gear actuator. I think everyone assumed he has a problem with the gear actuator motor, which may not be the case. Bill
  12. I had the same experience with BAF and Macroair. Total price from Hunter (fan, shipping and taxes) was $3200 for their 8’ Their fan kit was complete and included everything necessary for installation. I installed it it in a 42 x 34 T hangar. More than adequate. There is air movement everywhere in the hangar. All my hangar neighbors are envious. The contact info below is for the sales person I dealt with. Don’t know if she is still there or not. Bill KALEIGH WALKER│ 2434 ATRIUM WAY │ NASHVILLE, TN 37214 P: 629.333.7086 │ C: 615.
  13. I installed a Hunter Industrial fan in my hangar. Their industrial line manufacturers HVLS (high volume low speed) fans similar to Bigass or Macroair. After trying to deal with Bigass or Macro directly, I found Hunter much more willing to work direct with the consumer. Bigass or Macro kept trying to direct me to one of their “installers”. Hunter provider better technical support and sold direct to me. Not cheap, but worth the money to me. Bill
  14. Agree with Pete. Roll 75+ degrees of bank, and pull back on the yoke. Done correctly pull until you feel buffet. The instantaneous sink rate will be higher but the time in the turn will be much less, hence less altitude lost. Bill
  15. I have had good success with 3M Polyurethane Tape 3874 protecting the leading edge on the stabilizer of my tail wheel aircraft. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/3m8674tapeft.php Not the easiest thing to install without experience but doable with some practice. I was fortunate enough to attend a forum at Oshkosh put on by 3M and picked up some helpful tips. Mine is applied over a good finish with no existing nicks or chips. It is clear and does not alter the paint color beneath it. Applying the clear tape over an existing chip may look worse than the existing chi
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