Danb Posted February 2, 2022 Report Posted February 2, 2022 12 minutes ago, Fly Boomer said: @Danb I'm confused by the wing pics. Most are without TKS, but one has the TKS leading edge. Are these taken at different times? That’s not TKS but an aluminum primer Quote
RLCarter Posted February 3, 2022 Report Posted February 3, 2022 Autos use a”Base Coat, Clear Coat” where most of the planes are painted with a “1 shot (no clear coat)”. As far as guns go there are basically three sizes, 1 qt (full size) , 4~6 oz (touch up gun), and Air-Brushes…. HVLP is best in my opinion. Good results starts at the “Prep” stage and like mentioned above, aluminum requires a few more steps and precautions on the prep. The biggest mistake I see is WAY TOO THICK of coat(s), 1 or 2 light (dusting) coats then a wet coat is much better. the last coat can be reduced (Hot) which helps it lay flat and also helps with the blending, be warned this is generally where runs show up. When blending roll the masking tape back, this will help with “Hard” lines and cut down on the sanding afterwards. Use good material from an automotive paint store, DO NOT use newspaper for masking paper. Watch a few videos on YouTube, practice on something other than your airplane if possible and tackle a small area first…… 1 Quote
Marc_B Posted February 3, 2022 Report Posted February 3, 2022 I’ve seen comments of surface cleaning, prep, priming. I.e. Prekote, Alodine, and primer. Regarding basic protection and surface spot treatment before eventual repaint. What’s needed for basic chip and spot paint? If you’re using a self etching primer do you need alodine? Quote
RLCarter Posted February 3, 2022 Report Posted February 3, 2022 2 minutes ago, Marc_B said: What’s needed for basic chip and spot paint? Basically the same process, just smaller scale….. if aluminum is showing it needs proper treatment, small chips can sometimes be filled with paint using an Airbrush or artist brush the sanded down and buffed out… I did the leading edge on the horizontal stab….. a ton of rock chips…. It was easier to just repaint the entire leading edge skin 1 Quote
Brent Posted February 3, 2022 Report Posted February 3, 2022 On 1/31/2022 at 12:56 PM, ArtVandelay said: What kind of paint did you use? Here's a plug for my company's GA paint. Color match and touch-up quantities may or may not be a challenge. The company supplies coatings for airliners and business jets and launched the CA6500 for light GA. https://www.ppgaerospace.com/Products/Coatings-Removers-Cleaners/Commercial-Civil-Aviation/Topcoats/Boundless-CA6500.aspx You can find other brands via distribution. All the better if you have a color number(s) (check your maintenance logs or the maintenance manual, if original paint). 1 Quote
Hank Posted February 3, 2022 Report Posted February 3, 2022 14 hours ago, Brent said: Here's a plug for my company's GA paint. Color match and touch-up quantities may or may not be a challenge. The company supplies coatings for airliners and business jets and launched the CA6500 for light GA. https://www.ppgaerospace.com/Products/Coatings-Removers-Cleaners/Commercial-Civil-Aviation/Topcoats/Boundless-CA6500.aspx You can find other brands via distribution. All the better if you have a color number(s) (check your maintenance logs or the maintenance manual, if original paint). Be aware that new, original code paint will not match your 10-15 year old paint job. That's why we recommend taking a panel [not from the bottom of the wing] to your local automotive paint shop for color matching. 1 Quote
EricJ Posted February 4, 2022 Report Posted February 4, 2022 21 hours ago, Marc_B said: I’ve seen comments of surface cleaning, prep, priming. I.e. Prekote, Alodine, and primer. Regarding basic protection and surface spot treatment before eventual repaint. What’s needed for basic chip and spot paint? If you’re using a self etching primer do you need alodine? AC 43-13 has a whole section on corrosion mitigation (section 6) that includes processes for refinishing after removal of corrosion. Usually it recommends a chemical conversion coating like alodine prior to priming and painting, but this seems like overkill to me for spots or small areas, especially if metal hasn't been removed like it would be for corrosion mitigation. Also, alodine as it used to exist is difficult to find and has been essentially replaced by Bonderite equivalents. I've used this stuff on bare plates and new metal, and would find it a little difficult to treat a small patch or spot with it, but that's just me. I've used the automotive paint pens for small spots before, but the white on my airplane is a close match to commonly-available Oxford White and my paint is kind of ratty, anyway, so my standards are low. Quote
A64Pilot Posted February 4, 2022 Report Posted February 4, 2022 On 2/2/2022 at 5:09 PM, redbaron1982 said: Fuel tank sealer would be the POR 15 fuel tank sealer? No, it’s commonly called either Pro-Seal (manufacturer) or B2 (how thick it is) I believe the Por 15 is what’s commonly called “monkey blood” the thin slosh stuff? Anyway take a seam and tape it off about 1/4” wide, smear on the B2, remove the tape and smooth with a wet finger,it’s really easy to do and doesn’t take much time. Not sure how necessary it woud be on a GA airplane, if I had one on floats in salt water, I would, but surely paint does a good enough job sealing the seam for the average GA airplane. I like the idea of taping off the seams when stripper is used, maybe fine line tape is enough? Quote
carusoam Posted February 4, 2022 Report Posted February 4, 2022 On 2/2/2022 at 10:25 PM, Brent said: Here's a plug for my company's GA paint. Color match and touch-up quantities may or may not be a challenge. The company supplies coatings for airliners and business jets and launched the CA6500 for light GA. https://www.ppgaerospace.com/Products/Coatings-Removers-Cleaners/Commercial-Civil-Aviation/Topcoats/Boundless-CA6500.aspx You can find other brands via distribution. All the better if you have a color number(s) (check your maintenance logs or the maintenance manual, if original paint). Brent, You may want to include that detail on something called your signature line… It would be helpful for people with less than perfect memories…. Best regards, -a- Quote
carusoam Posted February 4, 2022 Report Posted February 4, 2022 Summary of some important issues… 1) PPs can do some really good paint fixes, legally… 2) Getting things cleaned properly may include removing light oxidation… 3) It is easy to go too far and remove the Alclad layer… 4) Alodyne is the base layer for painting aluminum… 5) There were better anodynes available back in the day… something changed, and CA probably can’t get any… 6) Fortunately, CA doesn’t have any rust…. 7) Matching paint colors can be accomplished by skilled local paint shops of the automotive world… 8) Matching paint thickness… for small spots is pretty easy… not much paint skill involved… more paint adjustment skill… 9) Oddly, I learned enough about painting my M20C from my mechanic… and fixed a chip at the top corner of the door…. Where every eye can see it… as it boards… 10) My paint color was straight from a standard can a beige-ish yellow… plane lived outside for 30+years… so many levels of fade on it, the exact match wouldn’t really help… it was more visible after paint cleaning, and waxing …. 11) Remember… don’t clean the paint too deeply… it isn’t very thick to begin with… removing any more, it just gets thinner and thinner… 12) Dan’s leading edges look great… if you fly in IMC… the leading edges will need attention after a while… 13) you don’t want to be afraid every time you hear tiny ice bits spanking the leading edges…. PP summary of what I read around here… -a- PP thoughts only Quote
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