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Retracted mains supposed to look like this? Photos


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So I had my plane on jacks to replace my J bar boot and took a look at the gear for the first time retracted.  It struck me as odd that the mains stick below flush from the bottom of the wings...  I assumed that the gear would be completely recessed in the wing.  Both mains are below the bottom of the wing the same distance.  Is this normal?

66 M20E

I threw in a photo of the boot too.  thoughts? 

 

PXL_20201226_221820676.jpg

PXL_20201226_221749428.jpg

PXL_20201226_222154656.jpg

Edited by flyingchump
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Great pics Chump!

Things we have to live with...

Things we got updates over the decades...

And one thing you can change this year... (brake reversal) it really sticks out the most...

 

In return for all that... tell us about how you sealed the air flow into the cabin....

That looks pretty fancy and tight!  :)

Best regards,

-a-

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3 minutes ago, takair said:

I think Anthony is referring to the Johnson bar boot. Is that the Lasar boot?

Ah.  No not Lasar.  I used the Aerocomfort boot.  It was in stock and a grand total of $72 with shipping.  I had it in 3 days.

Since the old boot was really bad I just cut it off...  Once it was out of the way, I pulled all the carpet back and started cleaning and cleaning and cleaning.  I also removed the plastic cover from around the nose gear well.  It took a while but MEK did a good job getting all the crap off the aluminum and left me with a pretty good surface to adhere to.  Then I had to jack up the plane so I could swing the J bar and slide on the new boot.  The positioning really matters so take your time and swing the gear a few times to make sure nothing is pulling or tugging.  Once you know the position, start cutting the material to fit around the cables, trim, wheel well,  and seat rails.  tape into position just so you can check everything and swing the gear one more time.  When I was happy, I started gluing.  I used Pliobond 20.  works well but I wouldn't be opposed to other adhesion options.  With the gear up, glue the aft part of the boot skirt.  With the gear down, glue the fore part of the boot skirt.  Take you time and work your way around the entire boot skirt.  

While i was in there... I re-adhered the fabric boots around the flap and aileron links.  More photos below.

PXL_20201226_222208887.jpg

PXL_20201212_174600714 (1).jpg

PXL_20201212_174608493.jpg

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Sorry for the missing detail in my questions... :)

Thanks to Rob for filling in the blanks.

 

Next up...

I see the old boots on the aileron rods.... they can get the same treatment as the J-bar....

A little more challenging because they are flight controls that need to be disconnected... and put back exactly the way they came apart... (for not messing up the good rigging)

 

PP thoughts only, not a mechanic...

Best regards,

-a-

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49 minutes ago, carusoam said:

I see the old boots on the aileron rods.... they can get the same treatment as the J-bar....

I considered changing them but they weren't in awful shape.  I glued it back in place and it turned out pretty nicely.   

There are more important things to address at the moment like getting ready for my first annual... I'm nervous as hell as I don't know what to expect.  I'm hoping to find an IA who might be willing to do the annual in my hanger so I can be heavily involved.  I want to know the systems of this plane inside and out and learn the process of an annual. 

Any IA recommendations around MGJ, Orange county, NY?

 

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6 hours ago, flyingchump said:

I used the Aerocomfort boot.  It was in stock and a grand total of $72 with shipping.  I had it in 3 days.

Oh, this is definitely a "must have" for me. My wife is constantly complaining about being able to see the ground through the small hole in the boot.  Thanks for the heads up about the cheap easy fix! 

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1 hour ago, skydvrboy said:

Oh, this is definitely a "must have" for me. My wife is constantly complaining about being able to see the ground through the small hole in the boot.  Thanks for the heads up about the cheap easy fix! 

Its also a SB (M20-118) to have a good boot in place.  Your aileron control rods are through that hole.  Someone dropped a flashlight down there and lost aileron control...  hence the SB

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My C’s control Rod boots were one with the nose wheel bump carpet... all got swapped out my first annual...

This was done in NJ at 39N... where owner assisted annuals are welcomed...  ( not too far away...)

Mostly because I added to the work load while I was there....   :)

Sometimes intentionally... sometimes not....

 

Also near you is Chris @PilotFun101 (location for your annual?)

Best regards,

-a-

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10 hours ago, carusoam said:

Also near you is Chris @PilotFun101 (location for your annual?)

I've meet Chris a few times now.  Really good dude. 

He flew me back from Mount Pocono a few months ago.  Moyer aviation.  I had my Prop overhauled, governor replaced, right mag IRANed, surefly installed (left), fixed an oil leak... so on...  I could go see those guys again but due to distance an owner assisted annual would not work for me.  I still might do that but I'm looking for all options where owner assist is possible.  I'll look into Princeton.

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On 12/27/2020 at 8:22 AM, flyingchump said:

Ah.  No not Lasar.  I used the Aerocomfort boot.  It was in stock and a grand total of $72 with shipping.  I had it in 3 days.

Since the old boot was really bad I just cut it off...  Once it was out of the way, I pulled all the carpet back and started cleaning and cleaning and cleaning.  I also removed the plastic cover from around the nose gear well.  It took a while but MEK did a good job getting all the crap off the aluminum and left me with a pretty good surface to adhere to.  Then I had to jack up the plane so I could swing the J bar and slide on the new boot.  The positioning really matters so take your time and swing the gear a few times to make sure nothing is pulling or tugging.  Once you know the position, start cutting the material to fit around the cables, trim, wheel well,  and seat rails.  tape into position just so you can check everything and swing the gear one more time.  When I was happy, I started gluing.  I used Pliobond 20.  works well but I wouldn't be opposed to other adhesion options.  With the gear up, glue the aft part of the boot skirt.  With the gear down, glue the fore part of the boot skirt.  Take you time and work your way around the entire boot skirt.  

While i was in there... I re-adhered the fabric boots around the flap and aileron links.  More photos below.

PXL_20201226_222208887.jpg

PXL_20201212_174600714 (1).jpg

PXL_20201212_174608493.jpg

The retracted gear should not be sitting that low.  Please see pictures of my 1968 F on jacks with gear retracted.  I also have the STC for the brake caliper reversal.  Note, you can not see the tire.

John Breda

IMG_3810 2.JPG

IMG_3811 2.jpg

IMG_3812 2.jpg

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I asked the exact same question last year at first annual.  My A&P, assured me that he could adjust them so that they don't stick out the bottom, if I wanted.  "Of course if I do, they will stick out the top some which means you'll sacrifice climb and even more speed", as he triggered a few times an air grinder and a naughty smile.  I decided I liked the way they looked sticking out the bottom.  :-)    

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