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About Nukemzzz

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    66 M20e

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  1. I think I would black anodize the part. You have a tub capped in the picture below. Mine is open to the engine compartment. Any idea what this tube is for and why yours is capped and mine is not? My best guess was this is for warmish air vs hot air so you could adjust the temps but I'm not sure.
  2. I just pulled out a certified Thommen that needs the wind spring repaired. I’m not sure what it is worth. I think it’s actually made by Waltham. I’m having a custom plate milled to mount my iPhone there instead.
  3. Friends, ’66 M20e J-Bar system. Nose gear... Plane is back running. Now to tackle the gear issue I found. There is a kinked rod end which I believe resulted from the rod length not being set correctly when the system was repaired last year after the nose gear collapsed. I can’t find the PN of this rod end in the parts manual to save my life. Can I get some help on this? Also, any thoughts on how this would have happened? We are jacking the plane to work the gear Wednesday to troubleshoot. I think that rod is under compression when the gear is retracted, and it, along with a sister rod on the other side is what pushes the nose gear up into the well. If the travel is shorter than the rod length it will bind and buckle. That’s my best guess at the moment. The rod end goes in the empty hole circled. Currently the one bent doesn’t match the one that isn’t so I want to be sure to get the right part.
  4. Gixxer is geared down since Road America was the only track where I needed the top gear. So it is currently only good for around 165mph Ducati has no windscreen so its top speed depends on how well I can hold on (not tested) M40i gets to the grocery store fast, don't know about the top end. Mooney wins on all accounts
  5. Sharing some details of the EMD install in case it is useful to others. Original Panel. Note the ancient transponder with a mode A and C switch above it. Also the EGT With the 4 position switch in the lower right is inop which is why I decided to install the JPI while the exhaust was out for rebuild. Space behind the right panel is taken over by the big transponder box. It’s gotta go and the EDM fits in the same size hole. Someone replaced the glove box with some some useful but oddly placed things. Decided to leave them there for now and I’ll rearrange everything at a later date with a full new panel plate. Might need to re weigh and balance the plane after removing this. Anyone need a vintage transponder? Makes a nice paperweight. Shot of the wire routing out of two firewall bushings. Right bank out of the lower. Left bank out of the upper. Shot of the routing. I wanted the EGT inboard so it was cleaner and it could be routed with CHT. Holes are 4” below the exhaust flange. So much time thinking about, and measuring, and double checking this because the new drop tubes weren’t cheap. Lol Near final right bank routing. It all came together nicely. The short fire sleeve is part of the kit for retaining the original primary CHT. JPI sensor is a washer thermocouple that goes below the CHT bushing. This cylinder will read a little cooler as a result I think. I’m not sure why they have you put the fire sleeve around it. Left bank routing. Again it worked well inboard. Note the newly installed ez-heater. Did it with the exhaust out as well. In this shot you can also see the white fuel flow transducer wires bundled and secured for a later install of the included transducer. Final install panel shot It’s not pretty but functional. Hopefully I’ll be able to read it from the pilot seat. Note the press to test engine warning light installed just to the left of the LCD screen. To add this you need to put a pin and wire in the the fuel flow serial plug at pin 11. I didn’t want to mess with the left panel at this time so opted to put it by the instrument itself so it’s obvious what is is for Getting at the screw that tightens the clamp around the gage is tricky. Because it has to be done with everything put back in place in my case. Be sure to orient the mount so you can get to it Fuel transducer wires are routed and secured out of a third bushing, but the transducer isn’t yet installed I’m holding on that until a later date as I need to get this bird back in the air now. I’ll try and add another picture of that soon.
  6. Watching eagerly as I’ll be doing the same to M20e at some point. Wrapping up EDM 730 install now. Posting some pics of it soon in case it hopes other with wire routing.
  7. I see, so someone relocated the power boost door cable mount bracket and so there really isn’t anything missing. Thanks!
  8. 66’ M20e. Just below the power boost mounting bracket I have a threaded hole that is clearly missing a bolt. See the attached pic. Any idea what goes here? Do I have a part laying in a cornfield somewhere?
  9. All good suggestions which I'll follow up on at a later date. The plane is down because of the muffler failure primarily. New muffler and headers just arrived. While waiting for that to resolve I investigated why the EGT wasn't working and it's because of the ancient 4 position mechanical gage. I ordered an EDM-730 instead of trying to fix or replace the old EGT gage. While pulling that I pulled the massive transponder to make room for the 730. My plan at the moment is to call it good enough for now and get it all put back together because I need to get the engine running again. It's been without oil for 3 weeks now and it should be ready to fire again in about week so I don't have time to upgrade the full panel layout at this time. I.E. I don't want the panel to be the pacing item. Thanks for the advice Side note... maybe the easiest thing to do is to ask one of you guys to send me your plexi glass template so I can copy it. lol
  10. Sorry for the continued dumb questions. I’m still learning about this plane. I noticed today that I’m unable to open the power boost door when the plane is off and in the hangar. I looked under the dash and there is a mechanism on the cable just behind the panel with wires connected. I assume this is to light the lamp next to the knob. However, is this also an interlock that prevents opening it unless another condition is met? I’m worried the cable is froze, but don’t want to pull it that hard. Pushing the button in the middle doesn’t free it up either. it worked 3 weeks ago while in cruise. Now on the ground it doesn’t. thoughts?
  11. This TC is 5 inches long. Transponder and old EGT are out. Engine monitor fits nicely in the transponder spot. Lots of old avionics wires back there. Plugs that don’t go to anything. When it’s time to install the new transponder later this year I’ll ask the avionics guy to pull the un-needed stuff. With the low M20e useful load...I don’t need to be carrying extra stuff around. Lol
  12. Fantastic. I wouldn’t have thought of that. I thought the concave feature in the plastic was from wear. Many thanks
  13. Someone else took the lower cowl off my 66 M20e. Now we don’t know how the power boost door cable attaches to the arm and none of the remaining fasteners seem to be appropriate. Does anyone have a picture of theirs so I can sort it out? Or a diagram? It doesn’t seem to be in my maintenance manual. My best guess is the wire came in from the left and there was a cable nut on the right side of the plastic. The plastic part spins in the lever by the way. I think what belongs here is actual a bolt with a double nut and two special washers. But I’m not sure.
  14. To clarify, what I mean is the labels are under the switches and so you can’t read them because the switch lever is in the way. They can only be read when In the up position which is “on”. I look like a parrot jerking my neck at funny angles trying to confirm I have the right one. Lol