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About flyingchump

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  • Birthday October 5

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  1. I've had two full sized road bikes in my E. Its not that hard after you do it once. I had room for baggage in the back seat and the baggage compartment.
  2. I've got tape rolling around the hanger somewhere... Is there a point to this opening? Access to the aileron links?
  3. Gents, I started looking at this hole (aft NLG well) and wondered if there is supposed to be a cover there... Kinda looks like there should be, no? Referencing the parts and service manual didn't help. What's the point of this opening?
  4. This peaks my curiosity.. I have a 66E with the IO-360-A1A and I have some vibration that I'm chasing down. Are you saying that replacement of the rubber engine isolators wont do anything to improve vibration because the engine is counterbalanced?
  5. I'm sure someone has done this before... Thought some of the curious among us might want to see. I just replaced my 1010 ELT battery during the annual so I thought I'd take apart the old one. I've heard they are just D batteries but I want to see how they were configured. I know I shouldn't have been, but I was surprised at just how simple it was... 9 D cell Rayovac High Energy batteries welded in series (1P9S) wrapped in masking tape and hot snotted in a case... Super easy and cheap to build. The battery was only $35 from spruce so I'm not complaining. The pack expires next m
  6. Yes, the annual was recently done. The trim system is fully functional but has a tight spot I'd like to fix before anything gets worse. Like I said I've been chasing it down. All have been recently cleaned and lubed. I have verified smooth operation for the rest of the "trim system" and nothing seems to be binding.
  7. Gents, I have some friction in my trim that I've been chasing and I've narrowed it down to the worm drive. 66E. It certainly looks like it hasn't been cleaned and lubed in a while. I'm apprehensive about taking it apart without more information. The parts manual and service shows very little about the internals... Anyone have more detailed diagrams or photos?
  8. Is there a effective way to make travel boards? I'd love to make a set.
  9. Reporting back. I replaced the main bushing in the nose wheel with a 0.010 oversized on from Lasar (blue). After replacement I noticed there was still some fore/aft play on the trailing link so I ordered 0.005 oversized bushings for that too (red). The red bushings were replaced in no time flat so I decided to paint the trailing link because air plane maintenance must take at least all day per the universe... The gear feels super stable now. My IA will submit new STC/337 paperwork for all instead of trying to fix the old 337 forms from the 90's. good gear, good paperwork, good fe
  10. Thought I'd report back. I received a new bolt from Lasar and swapped it out. Super easy! Dan sent me a NAS6606H21. It has a slightly different head but it was better for lockwireing. After jacking up the plane I released the J bar about 3 inches (held with a bungee cord). I removed the old bolt which was barely tight... Once the bolt was removed everything stayed exactly in place. I cleaned up the area and slid in the new bolt with a slight wiggle of the main gear. Safety wire and done! Super easy. My IA will stop by to check my safety wire and preload in a few days.
  11. I just got off the phone with Dan at Lasar. He told me that he didn't have any instock ATM and gave me the P/N's to order them. MS28775-114 or AN6227-12. I have not ordered or installed them yet. I wanted to document the P/N's here for historical record! https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/AN6227B-12.php
  12. I'm assuming there are nuts beheld these 2 bolts that I access from an inspection panel? I've got a few other discrepancies from the annual so I really don't want to be in for a pound on this one... but oncy I'm doing the work I'm sure I'll want to clean and paint everything. I just bought a set of preload tools so I'll certainly be checking them.
  13. Now that you all helped me identify the bolt, any tips on how to replace it? It looks to me if I release the gear just a bit, until the link goes back overcenter and releases the preload, I should be able to remove the bolt. Doing this would leave the other 2 connections of the retract truss in place and I could realign it by moving the J bar or main gear until the hole lines up and the bolt is inserted. Thoughts?
  14. The prop is in need of balancing but its not that bad... The gear door hung a little lower than it should but no sign of abrasion on the skins. It looks like Spruce and Lasar have the bolts. I'll order one up.
  15. I'm glad to hear you say that. I was thinking the same thing. I'll clean the area really wall today and see what evidence shows itself.
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