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About flyingchump

  • Birthday October 5

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  1. I did my primary in a 172. Then bought an E. The transition went really well with no real concerns. I feel very comfortable I'm my plane.
  2. I saw your post on FB. Sorry to hear about your situation. When my bendix stuck I used a pick with a 90 degree tip to pull the bendix forward just a bit. It was enough to get it unstuck. Good luck.
  3. I'd love to have the B&C starter. The cost of it held me back but knowing it hits the FS is more important. I've heard about the skytec issues but I don't see another option that's much better. Thanks for sharing.
  4. So yesterday my starter pissed me off for the last time... It decided it didn't want to work again... I hear a healthy click from the starter solenoid but nothing else. No starter rotation at all. This has happened before and the starter was IRAN'ed about 10 hours ago. It was a bad solder joint in the field winding at the terminal. and before that is was a sticky Bendix... and the time before that... so on. I wanted to keep the old heavy duty starter as I thought they were bullet proof... I guess not, its let me down too many times. It might not have been so bad but my wife and I were on an island, no mechanic on the field, on a Friday afternoon so the FBO left early, not knowing anyone local, with no rental cars available... Not happy. I tried smacking it with hammer, nothing. I had a volt meter and checked the voltages, all good. What the hell, lets try hand propping... What could go wrong right? Surprisingly nothing went wrong. My wife operated the throttle and mixtures (for the first time) and I threw blades. It started after 6-7 blades!!! All checks good! Lets go home! So now I'm ordering a skytec starter, 149-NL (I counted teeth), but is there anything else I need to order to make the swap? I heard about needing a longer starter cable but can't find solid info on that. I'm tiring to avoid the plane being grounded for weeks by placing on order for everything instead of placing multiple orders to get the "unknown parts" later. 66E, IO-360 A1A
  5. It's a bent piece of aluminum... Make it yourself.
  6. I have used a cheapo borescope form amazon for all sorts of stuff. Its not the greatest for the cylinders as mine cant do a tight 180degree bend but it works great for many of the areas you need to see but may not have the contortionist skills needed. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MYTHWK4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  7. I hadn't considered it... but hell. Why not. Anything to help pay for gas. I'll have to look into selling. throw a price at me.
  8. The position is good. I can sit with the seat in any position and my knees/legs won't hit my headset. I could print out a few but keep in mind I designed for this to work with my interior panels (airtex wall panels). If you have a different interior... results my vary.
  9. That crack was already there. Whatever yahoo did the interior carpet and wall panels last was a dumbass... I took the entire interior out over winter and fixed all the shit the last guy did wrong... Took forever. The plastics were pretty good (with a few small exceptions like the crack you pointed out) but the wall panels were awful. They were all attached poorly leading to warping and stress cracks. Now its all done right and the only things that bothers me are small problems like where to put my headset... The bracket actually helps keep the crack stable.
  10. Most of it. The pilots side is in pretty good shape but the passengers side...
  11. So I've had my E for over a year now and never found a good place to store my headset. Best option I found was putting them on the floor close to the rudder peddles. Not a great option but it allowed me to get in and out without getting tangled. I printed out a hanger I modeled that will slip over the top of the wall panel. I also printed out a mount for my headset controller. Now everything is nice and cleanly tucked away. I can get in, adjust my seat, and attach my seatbelt without my headset getting in the way.
  12. Yup. I had to do the same. I just installed an airtex wall panel kit and I cut this area just a bit for easier access. I also installed a new 2.5 scat tube on that vent. The old scat tube was so tight I couldn't access the laver for the valve. I added a few inches to the length of the 2.5 in scat and now I can get my hand up there to turn the valve. New radios and modern transponders don't necessarily need cooling. Old equipment does. I just closed mine and plan on going on a few flights to see how it goes. I was getting high CO in the cabin on the ground but none in flight. I think the radio cooling tube was letting CO in while on the ground. Time will tell.
  13. This mod looks interesting. Looking forward to seeing your numbers. How much more of a PITA is it to pull the top cowling our the dreaded lower cowl? Is the install time actually around 12 hours as ARI estimates?
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