Jump to content

AerostarDriver

Basic Member
  • Content Count

    138
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

66 Excellent

About AerostarDriver

  • Rank
    Full Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    6A2, Griffin
  • Reg #
    N9606V
  • Model
    Aerostar M20E

Recent Profile Visitors

252 profile views
  1. You need a J spinner but you need the right compatibility of lengths. My understanding is the stock 2 blade that came on the E and F models will not work with the longer cowl of the J. If you have an after market 3 blade or retrofit 2 blade or the 2 blade from a J (if you have the correct engine for it) you will likely be fine assuming you have the backplate and spinner for a J. The previous owner of my plane found it easier to order the Top prop for the J rather then continue to do the 100 hour eddy current inspections.
  2. Keep in mind to do the 201 conversion you need the following: Oil cooler relocation kit (STC) 201 prop or Top prop with 201 Spinner and back plate. (STC/337) 201 Windscreen (optional for 201 cowl/required for Lopresti cowl) (STC) 201 Cowl and cowl flaps(337) or Lopresti cowl(337) 201 airfilter (STC/337) 201 Baffle kit and air intake I would also recommend doing the conversion in that order because it can be done almost one item at a time. My airplane is has the first two installed and I own 95% of the parts to complete the conversion.
  3. Personally, if I were doing this, I would go out their see the airplane and pull it apart. Right now without labor your required cost are as follows: Airframe: 19,900 Engine Overhaul: 29,000 (Was the last price I saw for a Penn Yan IO-360-A1A) Prop: ~8,000-10,000 (Timed out and damaged) Current Cost: 56,900 Lets just say you have corrosion in the wing on the rear stub spar or main spar, that is roughly about 14k. Lets say you have a bad steel tube your at about 8-15K I am not trying to discourage you, in fact I did something similar with my E but costs can very quickl
  4. @MinivationWere you ever able to flight check your repair. I have two of these which nether work as expected.
  5. It now appears that if you enter the promo code "mooney" you can get 100 dollars off the trade-in price.
  6. Technically speaking, their is no reason why an IFD-440 would not work with an GI-275... However, an IFD-440 is not listed as an approved source for position or navigation data. All the GI-275 needs is a Analog or ARINC source for nav data and an RS-232/MAPMX line.
  7. I had the opportunity to fly an SR22T a number of years ago. The Cirrus was very comfortable but I was never able to get over the side stick that it uses. I strongly prefer the side stick in the Columbia/Corvallis from a pilots perspective, but it depends on how you use the airplane.
  8. At $21,250 your pretty close to dual G5s+GPS 175+GFC500 setup. It is my understanding that ballpark price installed is about 23K to 26K.
  9. Garmin GAD 29B Data Converter | eBay That will save you about 100 bucks.
  10. I unfortunately need to remove and replace my Stall Switch... I am looking at the inspection panel and the control rod between the hole and the Stall Switch, I am at a total loss for how to even access it. I am open to any ideas or suggestions as to how remove and replace. I also am open to any ideas that would allow me to fix it in place but it does not appear that is possible. The failure I am having is that I can hear the micro switch make contact but the electrical contact is intermittent, I already went through the rest of the warning system and replaced the horn, the old one was wor
  11. I did use a whiskey compass, I get no movement in the needle in the original location when following Garmin's interference test plan.
  12. My tail strobe ground is run all the way back to the battery but I still see the spike in EMI when the tail strobe flashes. The other strobes I can only assume are run just to the airframe somewhere. My GMU11 was failing the self test in the wing when I made up the test rig but was passing in the tail, now that I have everything wired and reinstalled, it is now failing the self test. I am going to see what I can whip up to copy your setup, I was trying to avoid drilling the skin or a longeron. I may try the other side as my tail strobe wire runs close to where your mount is. Th
  13. I have been trying to figure out how to get my GMU 11 to past a self test. I had intended to mount the GMU 11 to the avionics rack in the tail of my M20E but that is looking like an increasingly unlikely place to mount it. With the GMU 11 mounted directly on the Avionics Rack my Whelen LED strobes where causing a 1666% out of limit interference every time they flashed. My solution was to place the GMU 11 on a standoff tray that increased the height off the unit to 3.5 inches from the tray, this allowed the self test to pass but now I am at 106% limit when I raise or lower the flaps. I feel tha
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.