RLCarter Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 San Antonio Propeller delivered my prop this morning and my A&P/IA just happened to show up as I was cutting the check, during our standard BS session he walked over to the prop and asked why it was still sitting on the bench. After looking up the install and torque specs in the MM (see below) I was given my homework assignment. There are 2 short bushing on my crankshaft flange (they are 180 apart from each other), my assignment is to find out if "G. 4." is correct, meaning there should only be 1 short bushing or should it read "Line up the small "O" mark on the hub flange with one of the short bushings in the crankshaft flange". He said look in the Parts Catalog for the IO-360 A1A and see if I could tell from there but I don't have a copy of Lycomings Parts Book...... 1965 M20E IO-360 A1A Hartzell HC-C2YK-1B 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yetti Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 It's only supposed to fit two ways. You might want to have a propeller manual on hand. You have not supplied what propeller you are mounting. There are different flanges with different torques Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLCarter Posted October 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 46 minutes ago, Yetti said: It's only supposed to fit two ways. You might want to have a propeller manual on hand. You have not supplied what propeller you are mounting. There are different flanges with different torques Hartzell HC-C2YK-1B (stock prop as far as I know) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N201MKTurbo Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 Make sure you have the proper Hartzell o ring. Anything else will leak. They are expensive, like $6 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLCarter Posted October 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 3 minutes ago, N201MKTurbo said: Make sure you have the proper Hartzell o ring. Anything else will leak. They are expensive, like $6 got 2...just in case... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carusoam Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 Does the o ring come with lubrication instructions? They may get caught on something during the install phase... a slight nick will make you do it over... after you finish the first time... Fuzzy incomplete memory from somewhere... PP thoughts only, not a mechanic... Best regards, -a- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N201MKTurbo Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 5 minutes ago, carusoam said: Does the o ring come with lubrication instructions? They may get caught on something during the install phase... a slight nick will make you do it over... after you finish the first time... Fuzzy incomplete memory from somewhere... PP thoughts only, not a mechanic... Best regards, -a- They seal better if dry, they go on better if they have a little lube. Lube them with a little mineral sprits or alcohol, which will dry up. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carusoam Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 Thanks Rich. You are the best! Best regards, -a- 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MB65E Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 Engine oil is fine. Both the “o” on the prop flange and the “O” on the flywheel should line up. The flywheel should only fit one way. who didn’t index it? Lol. -Matt 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MooneyMitch Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 My experiences...... please do lubricate new O ring fully prior to installation into hub. Fresh engine oil as a lubricant will be fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLCarter Posted October 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 1 minute ago, MB65E said: who didn’t index it? Lol. There are indexing arrows I saw when we pulled it off for the Alternator STC and new belt several years back, but the prop was just gone through and repainted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLCarter Posted October 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 10 minutes ago, N201MKTurbo said: They seal better if dry, they go on better if they have a little lube. Lube them with a little mineral sprits or alcohol, which will dry up. seems like the A&P used DC-4 several years back, but cant remember for sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MooneyMitch Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 Yes, DC-4 is used, but engine oil is acceptable also. I should clarify that my lubricant information comes from my local propeller shop. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N201MKTurbo Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 Torque it precisely, then lock wire it. Then un-torque it to get the lock wire on, then re-torque it, rinse repeat. And who doesn’t love screwing it on 1/6 of a turn at a time X six bolts. We all must love this aviation thing! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MooneyMitch Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 1 minute ago, N201MKTurbo said: Torque it precisely, then lock wire it. Then un-torque it to get the lock wire on, then re-torque it, rinse repeat. And who doesn’t love screwing it on 1/6 of a turn at a time X six bolts. We all must love this aviation thing! An exercise in patience indeed! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLCarter Posted October 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 7 minutes ago, MooneyMitch said: An exercise in patience indeed! it was a pain cutting the safety wire off, it's his job to put it back....lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PT20J Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 2 hours ago, RLCarter said: San Antonio Propeller delivered my prop this morning and my A&P/IA just happened to show up as I was cutting the check, during our standard BS session he walked over to the prop and asked why it was still sitting on the bench. After looking up the install and torque specs in the MM (see below) I was given my homework assignment. There are 2 short bushing on my crankshaft flange (they are 180 apart from each other), my assignment is to find out if "G. 4." is correct, meaning there should only be 1 short bushing or should it read "Line up the small "O" mark on the hub flange with one of the short bushings in the crankshaft flange". He said look in the Parts Catalog for the IO-360 A1A and see if I could tell from there but I don't have a copy of Lycomings Parts Book...... 1965 M20E IO-360 A1A Hartzell HC-C2YK-1B There should be two short bushings on the crankshaft flange 180-deg apart. When you install the ring gear, make sure the bushing hole in the ring gear stamped with an "O" mark is assembled at the bushing identified with an "O" mark so that the timing marks will line up correctly. The prop can mount in one of two positions 180-deg from each other. It really doesn't matter since everything should be statically balanced. See Lycoming SI 1098P. Also, the Lycoming IO-360 series Parts Catalog can be downloaded from the Lycoming website. Skip SI1098P Propeller Flange Bushing Location.pdf 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimB Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 And replace your alternator belt while the prop is off. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 8 hours ago, RLCarter said: San Antonio Propeller delivered my prop this morning and my A&P/IA just happened to show up as I was cutting the check, during our standard BS session he walked over to the prop and asked why it was still sitting on the bench. After looking up the install and torque specs in the MM (see below) I was given my homework assignment. There are 2 short bushing on my crankshaft flange (they are 180 apart from each other), my assignment is to find out if "G. 4." is correct, meaning there should only be 1 short bushing or should it read "Line up the small "O" mark on the hub flange with one of the short bushings in the crankshaft flange". He said look in the Parts Catalog for the IO-360 A1A and see if I could tell from there but I don't have a copy of Lycomings Parts Book...... 1965 M20E IO-360 A1A Hartzell HC-C2YK-1B Four long and two short bushing is normal, one will be oversized when measured and compared to the others. The oversized bushing must line up with the oversized hole in the ring gear support or the timing marks won’t be correct. If installed wrong the oversized bushing will easily punch a new oversized hole in the ring gear support. The propeller normally has four counterbored holes holes in the hub, these must align with the four longer bushing on the crankshaft. Lubricate the O ring, install and torque the bolts and safety in pairs as described. The Hartzell manual shows 0.032” safety wire under the consumables section, but most prefer 0.041” safety wire. Clarence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesm Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 I was told that another way to check that you are installing prop in the correct position there should not be any wobble when it's on flange but not when the studs are not tighten down. I think I may have tried this on my 67C to if it holds true. Of course I didn't intentionally install that way but, if I recall correctly there was somewhat of a noticeable wobble when the prop is installed incorrect position on the crankshaft. Not sure if that would applies IO-360-A1A engine. Hope this helps James '67C 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLCarter Posted October 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 @M20Doc 0.041 is what was used in the past, 0.032" would be easier but I'm fairly certain the A&P/IA will go back with the big stuff again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prior owner Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 I wish I had a picture of mine...after the prop overhaul the Hartzell prop was installed with roll pins in the nuts, with safety wire running through the roll pins. Hadn’t seen that before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yetti Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 You have a K flange hub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLCarter Posted October 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, PilotCoyote said: I wish I had a picture of mine...after the prop overhaul the Hartzell prop was installed with roll pins in the nuts, with safety wire running through the roll pins. Hadn’t seen that before. That's how mine is, not much room to work Edited October 25, 2019 by RLCarter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yetti Posted October 25, 2019 Report Share Posted October 25, 2019 3 minutes ago, RLCarter said: That's how mine isn't, not much room to work I use forceps and needle nose pliers. Was kind of disappointed when the IA said "That is passable, but we don't want people knowing that came from our shop, do it over" 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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