JimB

Basic Member
  • Content Count

    111
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

57 Excellent

About JimB

  • Rank
    Full Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Central Indiana
  • Reg #
    1969F
  • Model
    M20F

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Interestingly, the ADS-B data is based on GPS location.
  2. Sort of funny, I was bored at work yesterday and was looking at Mooneys on https://www.adsbexchange.com/ and watching your flight (along with a bunch of others across the US). You were moving along around 200 mph. I think trying to turn things off individually to isolate it is the best idea.
  3. Actually the POH would be considered the FAA approved document while the AMM is just accepted. But I've never seen a POH with a aircraft "weighing" procedure. The procedures for weighing the aircraft should be in the AMM to establish basic empty weight. The procedures for calculating wb and loading the aircraft should be in the POH. And dont forget to add back in your unusable fuel.
  4. From experience, his technique of coating with hand soap, pulling a vacuum with a shop vac and watching for bubbles works.
  5. If you are just looking for the screws for the belly panels, I would go to the IPC, get the part numbers (AN526-1032R6, R8, AN526-632R6, AN530-8R8, etc.) and just order them by the 100. They are around $.09 a piece/$9.00 per 100. Also get some of the floating nut plates and tinnermans to have on hand when you find one stripped or broken.
  6. Thanks Cody, When I was unable to find anything on this, I thought it might be a "sticky subject". I have access to some new ACES equipment and thought I might check/balance my prop. The last props I balanced were turboprops back in the early 90s using the old ring-of-lights balancer and this new equipment looks really easy to use. But I was looking to see if there were any existing weights and didn't find any. Then I started looking at where I can mount some for balancing and didn't see any pre-existing holes for that. I was really hoping to not have to drill holes to mount weights but the ACES manual has the same sort of restriction "On any engine that has the spinner bulkhead attached directly to the starter ring gear, do not attach weights to the bolts that retain the spinner bulkhead to the starter ring gear. This installation requires that the weights be installed on the inner portion of the spinner bulkhead." It's been my experience that beyond the obvious pilot/passenger comfort, a smooth well balanced propeller is better for everything. Even small vibrations and balance issues that might not bother the pilot can wreak all sorts of havoc with engine/airframe brackets, electrical connections, accessories, etc. We solved a lot of issues on the turboprops just by keeping the props well balanced. It just makes sense and it really isn't expensive to have your prop balanced/checked.
  7. Just out of curiosity where would the dynamic balance weights be installed on an IO-360-A1A (M20F/HC-C2Y)? I have exhausted my Google searching capabilities but from my research they could be mounted on the front of starter ring gear or the inside of the lip on the bulkhead with a counter sunk screw. Where is the right location? It sounds like the ring gear may not be able to be used because the spinner bulkhead also mounts there. I don't see any on mine and I am curious if it has ever been dynamically balanced.
  8. I have the Hooker Custom Harness PN 202340 in mine M20F. Haven't tested them out yet but they appear they would do the job. Well made.
  9. I am enjoying reading this thread and the different perspectives. Just a quick question on trim. It seems to me to be properly trimmed at 80 mph on final with full flaps in both F models I have flown, you need pretty much all the trim. I have found that when it's just me in the plane, as I get established on final and put in landing flaps, I just keep turning the trim till hit hits the stop. This is when the aircraft is pretty lightweight. Is that about right?
  10. Thanks Skip. I am in the middle of doing my gear checks on my first annual and it seemed to take a little more pressure than I would have thought to get the gear to come up. So I hooked up my pitot/static test set, ran it up and the switch is made right at 75mph so I'm happy. Also went ahead and removed my gear actuator to check the gears even though that part of AD/SB isn't technically due (have pics if anyone wants to see). Just wanted to make sure they have been maintained well over the years and they looked great. Got everything lubed, emergency extension checked, preloads and spent the rest of my evening last night putting the 400 screws back in the belly panels. I like those shoptalk articles on that KNR site. Very informative.
  11. I have not crawled under my dash yet but it looks like my airspeed switch needs a slight adjustment. The AMM gives a very vague description "5. Adjust switch body until switch closes at an increased pressure of 2.416 to 3.158 inches of water (75+5 MPH), 6. Secure setting with a setscrew." Is the adjustment under the straight slot cap or is it the screw on the other side?
  12. Looks good Bob. I am also a fan of soldering permanent connections but rather than tin them first (aviation wire is already tinned copper strands), I prefer to separate the strands of each wire, slide them in to each other and twist them together. Then solder them together with heat shrink covering. Inexpensive, quick and very secure. Similar to below.
  13. Yes. Thanks. That is very interesting. https://lasar.com/service-bulletin-kits/service-bulletin-kit-182-scoop-kit-engine-cowling-mod-m20-182-000 https://cdn2.hubspot.net/hubfs/4147179/technical_documents/service_bulletins/sbm20-182.pdf?t=1524853948115
  14. Thanks. I'm sure your upgraded cowling does make a difference. Mine is all stock. I really like my analyzer but it does make you question every single nuance that for the past 50 years has probably been going on and everything was fine.
  15. I have a relatively new JPI 900 and before that I had a single cylinder CHT gauge so i dont really have a reference. The indications have been pretty consistent since the JPI was installed. I'm going with the assumption that its accurate but I guess if it's off 10-20 degrees that would make a big difference.