Fabricating A Functional Pre-J Glare Shield?

[RLCarter]

One thing that I have never liked on my E or any of the pre-J’s is the worthless pad Mooney calls a glare shield. I have dug around here and the net and haven’t seen anything other than one person that trimmed down a Comanche glare shield he had laying around (which turned out pretty nice) and a couple of people that had a new one made that extended aft a few more inches. My E has the original style windshield (non-201), which leaves no room on the glare shield for much of anything so I like the idea of extending it aft past the panel, and who knows it might even live up to its name “Glare Shield”. Another benefit of having it go past the panel a few inches is it would provide a surface for panel lighting to be mounted to, even though it would be illuminating old steam gauges.

Being kind of a Jack of all trades and a master of none I started looking into fabricating a more functional glare shield, the first step was to get a template that fit the curve of the windshield and the top of the instrument panel. The template was made from poster board and is fairly straight forward, I decided it might be easier if the template was in multiple pieces so it was rough cut to fit a few inches past the center post and extent several inches aft. I cut wildly around the center post and started trimming so it would fit the curve of the windshield, once happy with the fit I flipped it over and was glad to see it fit just as well on the other side. After tracing / cutting a second pattern they were placed back on top of the panel and taped together, then a small filler was made with a slot that fit the center post and was tapped to the template. Next I traced where the instrument panels and the template intersected, after cleaning up the lines with a straight edge, the transition from left panel to radio stack was cleaned up with a couple of radii. I now had something to work with. Even though it sounds like a lot of work, it took maybe just over an hour.

With a template in hand it was time to decide on how and what to make a new glare shield from, one option would be like others and just make a deeper version of what I already had, this was scraped as I wanted the use the extended area for mounting some LED lighting for the panel and I was afraid that it would begin to sag over time. I considered using a plastic or aluminum base for rigidity to help eliminate any sagging but wasn’t real keen on the idea of a thin horizontal surface facing me (knife edge). Another thing that pushed me away was it would have to have some sort of decorative covering, which I have no means of doing. I considered using fiberglass but that would involve a ton of work making a buck that would have to be damn near perfect, plus it would take sanding and painting…too much work. I ended up going back to the plastic, I could use a thermoplastic and roll a bull nose on the edge facing aft which would help eliminate sagging and the possibility of getting cut in the event of a sudden stop, its easy to work with and generally has a decretive pattern on one side. Having limited experience working with plastics and trying to think ahead it was obvious that the slight curve left to right and the tight radius on each end would have to be set before the bull nose could be rolled so a buck was still needed but it didn’t have to be as exact as with the fiberglass. Using the template I traced it out on a piece of 0.032” aluminum also extending the aft line an additional 2”. Once the aluminum was cut out all the edges were de-burred, sanded and rounded off (tight areas where taped), this was going to be test fitted several times on top of the panel and I didn’t want any sharp edges that could scratch the windshield or anything else it came in contact with. I wasn’t real concerned about the slight arch of the panel so I focused on the tight radius on each end, not owning a slip roller I had no choice but to slowly work the aluminum by hand and after several (ok a bunch) of test fits I was satisfied with the results. Climbing in and out of the plane got old real fast, luckily I was able to pass the aluminum through the storm window which saved a bunch on time.

Using 1/2“ CPVC to wrap the thermoplastic around to form the bull nose would give the appearance of being approximately an inch thick, which I think will look good, but trying to get 4 bends at the right place and correct angle to each other wasn’t going to be easy, so a left, center and right were made. My plan is to run water through the CPVC to keep it cool while heating the thermoplastic for the bull nose bends, 2 internal couplings where made to join the pieces together and allow water to flow through the CPVC. I ended up making a makeshift bender for the center offset out of a 2x6 that’s been in the hangar for ages, I packed the CPVC with fine sand and capped the ends to keep it from collapsing in the bends, it was then cut and riveted to the aluminum in three places. Below are a few photos that might clear up my explanation.. sorry for the long post, hopefully the follow up will be shorter.

Ugly but functional bender

                      

                                      

[carusoam]

Fancy tools Robert!

I’m looking forward to the next pics.

Best regards,

-a-

[N419te]

Will be following your next post .

[RLCarter]

1 hour ago, carusoam said:

Fancy tools Robert!

I’m looking forward to the next pics.

Best regards,

-a-

lol, that 2x6 has been in the hangar for over 10 yrs that I know of, it has finialy served a purpose and can be thrown away

[Yetti]

Nice job.   I have considered building a new one.    The F I have has the lights and the set of idiot lights in the front edge.   It does seem to need to be flexed some to get in and out. Keep up the good work.

 

[luv737s]

Aero Comfort in San Antonio has constructed a few Glare shields.  I got one for my C there 2 years ago .  They had a template and even the snaps were in the right place.  I don't know what other models they have done but you might give them a call.  

[Bob_Belville]

Robert, I can't find a very good pic of the glare shield in my '66E, it's a thermoplastic 201 type piece with aluminum tubing along the front that I had wrapped with leather left over from my interior renovation project. It does have eyebrow lights. I do have a 201 windshield. 

[RLCarter]

On September 12, 2018 at 10:15 AM, pstone said:

Just a thought.

I saw plans for a homebuilt airplane glareshield that included slitting a piece of 3/4" or 1" hose with a razor blade a slipping it over the front edge of the glareshield before gluing on

the vinyl or leather.

 

Pat

I had considered that, but I really didnt want to have to cover it, I might end up doing it anyway just depends on how well I can roll the edge.

Edited September 14, 2018 by RLCarter

[Bob_Belville]

5 hours ago, RLCarter said:

I had considered that, but I really didnt want to have to cover it, I might end up doing it anyway just depend on how well I can roll the edge

I considered doing it myself but I realized my trim guy had been doing this type work for 30+ years and would do a much smoother job than I could. That he did, padding the warped plastic and properly stretching and gluing the leather. It came out much better than I had imagined. 

[RLCarter]

Ever have one of those days were you stay busy but get very little done? When I pulled up to the gate and rolled my window down there was no question that something had died and was close by, 100 yds downwind sits my hangar and it wasn’t much better smelling there, hopefully the wind will switch back out of the SE or the Coyotes will drag it off. I did manage to install the CPVC on the ends and test fit it on the panel, still haven’t come up with a way to terminate the Bull Nose on the ends, it might get pinched off and call it done. With the CPVC all installed I needed some sort of flat area on the Bull Nose to mount a PWM dimmer & a miniature SPDT toggle switch, initially my thoughts was to build a small box and just form the thermoplastic around it when doing the bull nose. After several prototypes I was starting to get an uh-oh pile going, so my thought now is come back after the edge is formed and press it flat using a buck. The switch and dimmer are very small so not much will be needed to mount & hide them. The reason for a SPDT switch is I’m going with a White / Blue LEDS and I will be able to toggle between the two, was really hoping to get it formed today seeing how my thermoplastic came in. I went a little thick (0.125”) hoping it would keep its shape a little better here in the S. Texas heat.

Edited September 13, 2018 by RLCarter

[RLCarter]

Got the glare shield rough cut, had to put a few notes to remind my self to add for the bull nose before cutting the ABS. Even though my Jigsaw has a non-marring foot I went ahead a covered the area of ABS completely with masking tape adding additional tape for the bull nose, once all taped up I traced around my template then used my calipers set at 1.250” to scribed a line from the aft edge of the template on the masking tape, this isn’t real critical other than there needs to be enough to form the bull nose past 180 degrees. The Jigsaw worked like a charm, nice and slow both in fpm and rpm. I took a thin strip of scrap ABS and played around with the heat gun, it never really tried to melt but was plenty hot to bend, twist and fold. Next I took a larger piece to see how hard it was going to be to form the bull nose, it wasn’t too bad other than forming it by hand gets a little warm, ok it was hot as hell. When the ABS is ready to form it almost feels like rubber and I was a little concerned that I would smear the texture but that was a non-issue. With the bull nose cooled down, I re-heated an area in the center to try creating the flat area for the switch & dimmer. I had 2 small blocks 1.5”(H) x 2.5”(W) x 2”(L) ready to go with a C-clamp, once up to temp, 1 block was placed in front of the bull nose and the block behind it then clamped to straightening the bull nose out. The buck needs some work to add some rigidity to it so it wont flex while forming the plastic, also want to build on my technique before moving on to the real thing.

[RLCarter]

Spent Friday afternoon building something to clamp the buck to so it would withstand a little force and not distort. I headed out to the airport around 9:45 this morning and slung the doors open at 10:10. No sooner than my doors opened, up drove my neighbor and his A&P, seems he was having some wheel bearings issues (see my post “Flooded Hangars” back in June). His A&P who also is an IA was looking and the wooden contraption and the buck and cooling lines (water was flowing), he quickly figured out what I was up too and asked if it was FAA/PMA approved. Me and him (A&P) speak but that’s about it, he’s still upset (embarrassed) that I have chased him down in the air because I found his dipstick in the run-up area (twice). Anyway by the time I everyone was gone I had 50 minutes of work time before my buddy across the field would be showing up for lunch. A heat gun works great other than its small areas that are workable, the offset was going to be the hardest part due on bend being an inside bend and the other an outside bend. I slowly worked the ABS just a few degrees from the center out, after several passes I had the ABS bent roughly 90. It seems there is no part that isn’t a compound curve so a lot of shrinking and stretching going on, but it was working out as expected. After lunch I was able to complete the bend around the CPVC and started messaging the bull nose closer to the shape desired. I was a little concerned that I was possibly deforming the CPVC so let it all cool down and popped it off the buck, the water was doing its job and the CPVC was still as round as it was when I started. Hopefully tomorrow I will be able to get back on it, now that I know there is no issue with the CPVC I can heat up larger areas and start smoothing out the bull nose. Looks rough but I’ll post the pics anyway, going on my test pieces earlier I have confidence the bull nose will smooth right out. 

                 

 

             

Edited September 19, 2018 by RLCarter

[RLCarter]

Finally got out to the hangar only to find the heat gun had given up the ghost, it was under water a few months back and pushing 30yrs old so it was time. New heat gun has some serious horse power even on low, which is good ‘cause smoothing out the bull nose is a lot more work than the little test piece I did. Working the bull nose also affected the horizontal (flat) as well, so it was work a small area let it cool while working another area on the other end then flatten it all back out and repeat. After a couple of hours it was finally starting to smooth out some but what a PITA. After lunch a started trimming a little to see how it fit in the aircraft. So far so good, need to trim so it fits at the windscreen better, and a little more work on the bull nose. Looking back if I had to do it again I would leave out the offset in the middle as this is where most of the trouble starts and just make it straight across following the curve of the panel, but oh well if I cant get it smooth out to my liking I can always cover it foam and leather. I did go ahead and order the LEDs, Mini-Switch and Dimmer so I guess I’m thinking it’s going to work…lol. Money wise just north of a hundred, time wise I’m not sure but guessing around 15hrs actual (its been hot and working with a heat gun makes it worse so I take a lot of breaks).

       

[hmasing]

When you're done with your templates... can I have them?  :-)

My M20F has no glareshield at all.  And I have no skills.  

OK, OK, yeah, some skills... 

Edited September 21, 2018 by hmasing

[DonMuncy]

How much would you have to charge to build one for someone  

[RLCarter]

7 minutes ago, hmasing said:

When you're done with your templates... can I have them?  My M20F has no glareshield at all.

The template and buck are actually easy to make and I can walk you through the process I used along with what I'd do differently. If your NOT wanting the overhang a stock glareshield pad could be had a lot faster and probably about the same money. 

[RLCarter]

10 minutes ago, DonMuncy said:

How much would you have to charge to build one for someone  

Well, considering I generally have a $1000.00 solution to a $200.00 problem I'm not sure. Vacuum forming would be the way to go.... with a proto-type already made a mold could be made, might have to look into that

[hmasing]

On 9/20/2018 at 11:27 PM, RLCarter said:

 a stock glareshield pad could be had a lot faster and probably about the same money. 

Do you have a source for a glareshield?  I've come up empty, but my google-fu is weak here.  

[carusoam]

hm,

See @acpartswhse and @Alan Fox for used parts...

Best regards,

-a-

 

[GDGR]

11 minutes ago, hmasing said:

Do you have a source for a glareshield?  I've come up empty, but my google-fu is weak here.  

I’ve found nothing for anything Pre-J as well. I think this is the slickest production I’ve seen yet. Pulling mine out shortly, and hoping it’ll only need a vinyl resurfacing (front edges are frayed and ugly).

thinking it might make a good stencil for a plastic rebuild. 

Edited September 24, 2018 by CDNflyby

[RLCarter]

22 minutes ago, hmasing said:

Do you have a source for a glareshield?  I've come up empty, but my google-fu is weak here.  

 Don't think the early Mooney's had a true glare shield, only thing I've ever seen is the leather pad that snaps on top of the panel. 

[RLCarter]

Just did a search for p# 9500271(Glare shield)), there's one on eBay (used) for $400.00...... That's insane

[RLCarter]

Went out Saturday to clean/straighten up the hangar and couldn’t stand it, had to trim a little more and see how it was going to look. You have to ignore the 50+yr old shotgun panel, but all in all it’s coming together. One issue is there is a gap above the panel and the glare shield that will have to addressed to get the shield to lay flat, in the pictures there is a 5/8” piece of wood between the so it lays and looks right, with out it the glare shield angles down. Shouldn’t be that big of a deal to fabricate the filler for the shield to rest on.

The short time I had Saturday was spent on the shield so I didn’t get much cleaning or straighten up done so that was on the agenda for first thing this morning before I look into a little more tweaking and the filler needed. Not sure how it happened but I sure had a lot of tools out that didn’t seem to fit the task. With all the tools up and crap thrown away  I went ahead blew the sawdust off both airplanes, rolled up 2 extension cords and the air hose. I’ll fess up only the area around my makeshift worktable was swept, but it was much cleaner than when I started. During lunch with a pilot buddy and my IA, the IA asked how it was going. After a brief conversation on a few of the pitfalls I was having he (the IA) said just make another one if your not happy. I really wish he hadn’t of said that, but he did and so I did. I now have 2 ABS glare shields, the second on came out better than the first and as long as I stay away from my IA until its time for a log entry I should be ok. The hangar is a mess again but I still need to fit the new one around the windscreen, LEDs should be in Friday so hopefully I can put this project to bed. Below is the original pad, the 1st on I made is in the middle, and the latest one on top (you can see the green tap where some trimming is needed. @hmasing pm me and make me an offer I can't refuse on the middle one, there are 2 spots were it got a little hot with the new heat gun , I can send you pics of the areas, the first 2 pics are with it in the plane.

 

 

 

Edited September 25, 2018 by RLCarter

[RLCarter]

Not much done other than some trimming and test fitting. Really need a helper, get in the plane, get the glare shield in place, get out and see where it needs trimmed, get back in to remove it, get out and take it over to the work bench and trim, repeat as needed and so far needed it has been. My dimmer and toggle switch came in wednesday and the LED strip came in today, tested the strip and it has 3 blue LEDs (in a row) that are in-op. I did cobble something together to see how or if it was even going to light the panel.

wait another week for the new strip to come in and hopefully they all work

 

Edited September 29, 2018 by RLCarter

[Hank]

It looks good, but why did you go with blue?