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The deal was finished up last night. N1972W is a 1962 M20C with 5700 tt and 600 SMOH. Yesterday I went up for a flight before closing, everything looked good. I ended up driving my rental car from Willmar MN to Flying Cloud airport where I managed to find an instructor while Tim, the broke flew her to flying cloud. Once there The instructor and I flew Tim back to Willmar and then turned around to head back to FCM. On the way back we had to land at Glencoe and wait out some heavy storms over Minneapolis. I did my first night landing and first bit of night cross country time! My dad, a Delta pilot, is flying out tomorrow afternoon to fly her back with me on Monday. He's flying a redeye from LAX to JFK the night before and then I'm going to make him deadhead to MSP and spend 5 hours with an instructor in N1972W. Her final home will be KLAM in New Mexico.

You mean like this: Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I ended up having the right side rebuilt in part to do away with the challenge of trying to work in those close quarters. From this: To this: Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I've taken ownership of N1972W as of yesterday. Currently I have her parked at Elliot Aviation at KFCM because that's where the instructor is. I went ahead and made a new thread in the Vintage Mooney forum with pictures. Thanks again for all your help guys!

Mcmaster.com - Part #: 6058K32 - $5.10 each You're welcome.[emoji846] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Ah, Philippians 4:11 "... for I have learned to be content with whatever I have." Not sure Paul could foresee airplanes though...

I've been running Airhawks for almost 20 years on my Mooney. Been great. If I let renters fly the plane I might worry about spending more but as long as it's me lightly kissing the mains on Airhawks have been perfect. Can't see spending more -Robert

Bubbling paint, visable corrosion, grease leaks, loose blades, dis colored grease, moisture in grease , ect!

I believe the overhaul is really just for 135. The prop shops I've used will discourage owners from asking for the O word since it adds expensive without benefit. I've usually had mine opened when it's spraying it's grease down the blade or after my engine failure to remove all the excess metal. -Robert

If you lose part or all of a blade in flight you should have the prop repaired. Otherwise just touch up the blades with Aluminum oxide sandpaper and grease the hub every few years. A little spray paint can make it look new again! 20, 30 even 40 years is nothing to a fine piece of precision machinery. If there's a little grease streaking the blades that means there's still some in the hub, a good sign. Fly on!

Ever since I bought this plane back in February, I've noticed a smell of fuel in the cockpit (as I have report to y'all in the past) that would come and go, often when I would level off, lean and close the cowl flaps. I would also see blue stains on my right nose gear door and cowl flap. Nothing streaking down the belly. And, from the moment I purchased it, the fuel pressure gauge would always wobble between 17 and 20PSI without the boost, 23-25 with the boost. This weekend, I noticed my fuel pressure drop out of the green to about 13PSI so I turned on the boost pump and it stabilized. I've been looking for a leak for months. My A&P has looked. His A&P looked. Other fellas looked. Hell, we looked quite a bit. We'd put the boost pump on and look everywhere for leaks...Thought maybe it was a small leak in the fuel servo but could never duplicate it on the ground. Thought maybe it was just that the boost would be dumping excess fuel overboard. Many of you guys suggested the sender, the tank witch, the pump itself... Turns out...the fuel line going to the pressure gauge was resting up against an exhaust pipe...when we pulled it back we saw that it had charred all the way through... and when we turned the boost pump on it immediately saturated the braided hose and proceeded to soak the inside of the rubber housing! Faaaaaack. Glad I caught it, otherwise you guys would have been singing "Great Balls of Fire" at my funeral.

I just tighten mine until they are snug. Never used Locktite on them. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Matt, are you replacing a few or all of them? I have the 60s vintage red "press to reset" CBs. I would love to swap them all out with the newer pull-types. I'll be watching your progress

Turnout was good today! We had 12 people and 7 aircraft. My Missile, a Bonanza, Two J's, a C, E, and an Ovation! There was also a rotting B on the ramp (someone buy and restore her!) and a georgeous Acclaim parked on the other side of the ramp in the distance. Five of us went to the museum after breakfast and being airplane nuts, we all really enjoyed it. I think Alan may have opened every inspection panel on all the aircraft he could reach. They have a nice small museum at Wildwood/Cape May. The original tower from Bader Field is on display with steps to walk up. There are many aircraft ranging from WWII trainers to static display 4th generation fighters on loan from the Navy (F-14). They also have a lot of helicopters and a coast guard ship. Being that close to a TBM Avenger reminds me just how massive it is! I'll give better notice for next month. -Seth

Congrats! Nice plane! Uhoh... You named her. BIG mistake!! Now you will go broke upgrading her!! Ask me how I know!! Lol!! Seriously, welcome to the club! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Yup, it happens to newbies and sometimes to veteran JBar folks. Try putting the gear down in a 2 (3?) step process: release from floor latch and allow the bar to come up a foot or so; pause, mindful of the seatbelt latch, ease the bar by the latch, and finish the process swinging the bar into the down&locked latch. About every 10 or 20 times without tripping the seatbelt you'll forget and get a reminder of your SOP. If that is not satisfactory the previous owner of my E had a Velcro strap around the seatbelt latch.

Sweet plane, I use to have a very nice 63C, fun to fly. Pritch

Push button latches like are in automobiles are available. Check with Alpha. http://alphaaviation.com/Mooney.html

You have a few good things going your way. starting with Dad's involvement..! Let me know how you get that. Best regards, -a-

I'm fairly certain this item matches up exactly with the broken part removed from my M20. To confirm you can call McMaster and request the OEM part number for the item (isn't shown on website). I just hate seeing people overpay for "stock" items. I love LASAR for Mooney specific parts and "advice" but they probably won't beat McMaster at $5.10.

They are talking about a quick-disconnect for the cowl flaps not the regular cowl fasteners.

For seat foam (Confor Foam) I can highly recommend these folks. Husband and wife, extremely nice people, I always make time to talk with them at Oshkosh. You can pick their brains for ideas and design your own seat foam. http://www.seatfoam.com/aviation.htm

15 years of hot starts on my Rocket have been pretty much as Doc described, and I've tried a lot of methods others have suggested and always return to what has always been consistent. Full throttle and mixture full rich. Run boost pump for 6-7 seconds. Mixture all the way back to no fuel and prop at 1/2 throttle As it fires mixture in and throttle back to idle (a pretty quick dance). Always starts in about 6-8 seconds. I tried the low boost, as that's what works on the Bo I fly, but it just complicates a known start procedure (and if forgotten, you will not be able to kill the engine with a mixture pull). Don't ask how I know that (on the Bo). Tom

Sometimes. I put in a power outlet in the aft bulkhead wired to the hot side of the battery relay. This way the kids can plug their crap in while flying and I can plug, up to a 10A (I wouldn't go over 5) charger. Works well and very convenient! You have to ignore the pimpmobile carpet! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

It is my understanding, based on pictures and my memory, that Oregon Aero uses two or three different densities and thicknesses in different places on the seat. That formula is what I would like to have.

I had seats rebuilt this summer. New foam throughout. There's a thin top layer of comfort, then 1" of memory foam, then 1-2 inch more foam under that. The memory foam is good for long flight comfort. I hear that on cold days it stays hard for half an hour (no jokes, please) before it conforms to your, ah, contours. Winter will tell. Aside: Anyone have an STC for heated seats?

I am coming.

Nothing like a personal Airshow Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Did not know this. They installed my engine and another mechanic at a different shop pointed out a laundry list of issues when I was getting some other work done. All were minor but incorrect nonetheless. Brian eventually took care of all of them and it runs great but it didn't sit well with me so I never went back. Started hearing bad rumors about the shop thereafter. Jason Doscher of Jed-Aire Aviation in Benson, MN (about 20 NW of Willmar) works on my plane now. He's a Mooney expert that use to work in Willmar before going on his own. You probably bought your plane through the same broker I did; Tim Lundquist. He's a good guy and was a pleasure working with.

They're here and more coming. Loved watching the B-25 land! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

As Paul said, it's a difficult question to answer. If parts are needed, then those parts from Mooney or Continental are going to be expensive, parts from Spuce, not so bad. Getting the problem identified and fixed the first time saves a lot. Don Maxwell's shop in Texas is one of the best also Kerry MacIntyre out in Wyoming. I'm nowhere near there, but I've called them with questions, and they have always been very kind and helpful. As an example, my starter adapter was failing. The 'new style' which I have only last about 1000 hours. I called Continental and Niagra( very reputable business), both told me they would have to see mine to give an accurate quote, but told me it would be in the $6,000 range. Don referred me to a shop in Texas that overhauled mine for about 1k. Still working fine. I do my own annuals, as I am fortunate to have one of the world best a&p w/ ia as a friend. Last years annual with new tubes/ tires and brake pads was abut $2,000 and about 10 days. My advice is to get a set of maintenance manuals, if you find champion plugs, get rid of them and replace with tempest, and take the time to diagnose the problem and know your options before bringing it somewhere. BTW, the airframe is solid. I know that doesn't completely answer your questions, but that's all I got.

the seats are not that hard to take apart and put new foam in. say half a day start to finish. It was a full day to resew a leather cover. In the better walley worlds they have seat foam in the crafts department. no need to suffer

Rest your feet on the rudders when it is bumpy. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

IRAN that Sucker. Your not part:135 Its your Propeller, it should be your choice. Grease leak is a sign of Hard seals or Over serviced!!! To fix that, an O/H is way to evasive.

Red right returning is for the Buoys / chanel markers on the channel.... not the other boats. We used to sit at the sailing club and watch the people run their boats on the shoals. Good times I tell you

OMG, YIKES Brian! Thanks for sharing, and glad you're still with us!! That is a horrifying picture. I may need to go the airport, un-cowl my plane, and trace all my fuel lines before I can get to sleep tonight!!

There is an adjustment on the Brittian Gyro... Uses a small screw driver to change. The MSC should know this. Brittian will be able to tell you how to adjust However, roll trim knob position may vary as much as 90° from center without indicating a faulty system. http://www.67m20e.com/Manual No. 11990 Mooney PC Operation and Service Instructions.pdf There can be a bit of P factor that requires a bit of right rudder to keep the ball centered at full power

On any engine inspection it is important to look for chafing lines and wires against engine components. A spark plug wire resting on the engine or magneto will eventually break due to engine vibration and chafing. Chafing is a silent troublemaker that can cause an engine to quit. To avoid chafing use ty-wraps to keep the lines/wires from getting in contact with engine components José

Um that's about the scariest maintenance item I've seen on the board.

Entry & exit are the only real issues I see. My wife makes her exit look very graceful from the co-pilot seat by swinging her legs and sliding out along the leading edge of the wing and gently landing on her feet there in front of the wing...but she makes it look good even when it's not graceful! Sitting beside my wife is where I kinda want to be touching elbows, if you know what I mean. It's all about mission. Recently took my 6'4", 230-lb brother and his two sons up for an hour of sightseeing around the Grand Coulee Dam. His sons are 10 & 14-yrs of age and I'm no cream-puff at 6'1" and 175-lbs...albeit, we were light on fuel and I emptied out the extra stuff in the baggage area, we were still easily within the CG limits for the airplane and landed with over 20 gallons of fuel remaining. And we were quite comfortable in flight I might add...certainly no complaints as my pax were doing nothing but GRIN! Good memories and the Mooney worked it's magic again!!

I used to use the most expensive shops around including several Mooney service Centers. Then I started noticing overlooked problems that were actually scary. So I do my own work because I can feel safer when my family and I are out over the sea of Cortez. -Robert

Just saw this on YouTube.

You might also want to consider an IO-550 equipped mooney. Missile, Eagle, or Ovation. You'll get much better speed than a 231 down low and as good up to O2 required altitudes. Oh and none of the maintenance headaches associated with forced induction.

after the door and vent window are opened

Don't touch the brakes until the flaps are raised. I'll just run go put my flame suit on now ... ;-)

Nothing wrong with a tendency to go right. Now left, you've got a problem there...

Do you raise the right flap or lower the left? You won't know but the rigging boards can help. A rough guess is the ailerons are at zero when the counterweight is faired. Fair the flaps to that and it's approximately zero.

If you don't have a FF meter (I don't either), here's what you do--use one tank only for the specific thing you need to measure. This will take 2-3 flights: FLIGHT 1 1) Top off your tanks 2) Fly the climb on one tank. Once you reach your alt, switch to the other tank. 3) Fly the cruise and decent on the other tank. 4) Figure out your climb burn based on time and gallons used in tank 1 5) Figure out your average burn for cruise + decent based on time and gallons used in tank 2 FLIGHT 2 1) Repeat, but use tank 1 for climb and decent so you can get an accurate cruise burn on tank 2 and extrapolate decent from FLIGHTS 1 and 2. Hope this helps!

In my experience, Harley riders are one of the most diverse group of motorcyclists. In terms of intellect, they have solid representation across the whole bell curve. Putting Kerosene in a V-Twin proves that this guy resides in the lower left hand part of the graph.

I just replaced some on my M20 B model. The only advise is to use a sticky dab of something on the end of the appropriate finger or thumb that will allow you to stick the lock washer and then the nut up to the end projecting behind the panel. Once the nut is started on the thread just pull away the sticky dab of something. The other way is to hire a circus contortionist and let him do it. I used some butyl tape rolled into a little ball. It was cheaper than the circus performer. I'm also lucky that I can get upside down in the leg well with my legs up over the pilots seat very comfortably. Having a helper to hand you tools and nuts and washers you drop is a good thing. Have more nuts and lock washers than you need because you probably don't want you male helper getting that personal with you trying to retrieve a dropped lock washer, if you can get a good looking girl helper she will quit when she realizes you are dropping stuff on purpose. If I had to do it again I would just get a bungee cord and support the panel from the most convenient overhead spot. I would go with the fat ones the correct depth as you will see the skinny ones droop a little bit even when new.