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The deal was finished up last night. N1972W is a 1962 M20C with 5700 tt and 600 SMOH. Yesterday I went up for a flight before closing, everything looked good. I ended up driving my rental car from Willmar MN to Flying Cloud airport where I managed to find an instructor while Tim, the broke flew her to flying cloud. Once there The instructor and I flew Tim back to Willmar and then turned around to head back to FCM. On the way back we had to land at Glencoe and wait out some heavy storms over Minneapolis. I did my first night landing and first bit of night cross country time! My dad, a Delta pilot, is flying out tomorrow afternoon to fly her back with me on Monday. He's flying a redeye from LAX to JFK the night before and then I'm going to make him deadhead to MSP and spend 5 hours with an instructor in N1972W. Her final home will be KLAM in New Mexico.

You mean like this: Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I ended up having the right side rebuilt in part to do away with the challenge of trying to work in those close quarters. From this: To this: Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I've taken ownership of N1972W as of yesterday. Currently I have her parked at Elliot Aviation at KFCM because that's where the instructor is. I went ahead and made a new thread in the Vintage Mooney forum with pictures. Thanks again for all your help guys!

Mcmaster.com - Part #: 6058K32 - $5.10 each You're welcome.[emoji846] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Ah, Philippians 4:11 "... for I have learned to be content with whatever I have." Not sure Paul could foresee airplanes though...

I've been running Airhawks for almost 20 years on my Mooney. Been great. If I let renters fly the plane I might worry about spending more but as long as it's me lightly kissing the mains on Airhawks have been perfect. Can't see spending more -Robert

Bubbling paint, visable corrosion, grease leaks, loose blades, dis colored grease, moisture in grease , ect!

I believe the overhaul is really just for 135. The prop shops I've used will discourage owners from asking for the O word since it adds expensive without benefit. I've usually had mine opened when it's spraying it's grease down the blade or after my engine failure to remove all the excess metal. -Robert

If you lose part or all of a blade in flight you should have the prop repaired. Otherwise just touch up the blades with Aluminum oxide sandpaper and grease the hub every few years. A little spray paint can make it look new again! 20, 30 even 40 years is nothing to a fine piece of precision machinery. If there's a little grease streaking the blades that means there's still some in the hub, a good sign. Fly on!

Ever since I bought this plane back in February, I've noticed a smell of fuel in the cockpit (as I have report to y'all in the past) that would come and go, often when I would level off, lean and close the cowl flaps. I would also see blue stains on my right nose gear door and cowl flap. Nothing streaking down the belly. And, from the moment I purchased it, the fuel pressure gauge would always wobble between 17 and 20PSI without the boost, 23-25 with the boost. This weekend, I noticed my fuel pressure drop out of the green to about 13PSI so I turned on the boost pump and it stabilized. I've been looking for a leak for months. My A&P has looked. His A&P looked. Other fellas looked. Hell, we looked quite a bit. We'd put the boost pump on and look everywhere for leaks...Thought maybe it was a small leak in the fuel servo but could never duplicate it on the ground. Thought maybe it was just that the boost would be dumping excess fuel overboard. Many of you guys suggested the sender, the tank witch, the pump itself... Turns out...the fuel line going to the pressure gauge was resting up against an exhaust pipe...when we pulled it back we saw that it had charred all the way through... and when we turned the boost pump on it immediately saturated the braided hose and proceeded to soak the inside of the rubber housing! Faaaaaack. Glad I caught it, otherwise you guys would have been singing "Great Balls of Fire" at my funeral.

Clearing up my thoughts... The C had the CBs distributed along the bottom edge of the IP all in a row. The F is a step more modern in comparison. Thanks to marauder for generously and photographically pointing out the differences. Best regards, -a-

Jealous, for sure. Nice find

On our retractable gear, particularly if you change tire brands/models, be sure to jack the plane and cycle the gear a few times to be sure you have clearance. Not all tire are the same.

Yup, it happens to newbies and sometimes to veteran JBar folks. Try putting the gear down in a 2 (3?) step process: release from floor latch and allow the bar to come up a foot or so; pause, mindful of the seatbelt latch, ease the bar by the latch, and finish the process swinging the bar into the down&locked latch. About every 10 or 20 times without tripping the seatbelt you'll forget and get a reminder of your SOP. If that is not satisfactory the previous owner of my E had a Velcro strap around the seatbelt latch.

Sweet plane, I use to have a very nice 63C, fun to fly. Pritch

You have a few good things going your way. starting with Dad's involvement..! Let me know how you get that. Best regards, -a-

They are talking about a quick-disconnect for the cowl flaps not the regular cowl fasteners.

The Garmin products resist temperature related shutdowns and in general don't crash. When their batteries run out it takes seconds to pop in a new set. The two device manufacturers are good at different things. It is best to have a version of both. Then you realize your needs are different than the next pilot. Fortunately, With enough experience you can answer this question for yourself. Because, nobody else will be able to do it for you. Best regards, -a-

This is actually kind of true. The only problem is, many people really care about what the "Greatest Generation" did during WWII, but they just don't give a damn about what they did after WWII. We are on par with the guy that lovingly works to preserve and maintain the 1963 Plymouth Belvedere in his garage. It is history and we are the custodians of that living, physical history, it's just very few people in the general population care about that history.

15 years of hot starts on my Rocket have been pretty much as Doc described, and I've tried a lot of methods others have suggested and always return to what has always been consistent. Full throttle and mixture full rich. Run boost pump for 6-7 seconds. Mixture all the way back to no fuel and prop at 1/2 throttle As it fires mixture in and throttle back to idle (a pretty quick dance). Always starts in about 6-8 seconds. I tried the low boost, as that's what works on the Bo I fly, but it just complicates a known start procedure (and if forgotten, you will not be able to kill the engine with a mixture pull). Don't ask how I know that (on the Bo). Tom

Anything would be better than what I have, but maybe a lower/bottom layer of "hard" then a layer of medium and then soft? No clue...Maybe I will buy some foam and do the pilot's seat/have done by Lynn who did the outer replacement/refurb on the seats...Life is too short to not be comfy in the rumpus while flying fast on a little gas...Right?

Rest your feet on the rudders when it is bumpy. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Or let the PC take care of the rudder! [emoji3][emoji3][emoji12]Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk You'll lose your 39 true airspeed gain if you do that! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Crap!! Stupid PC system.

Sometimes. I put in a power outlet in the aft bulkhead wired to the hot side of the battery relay. This way the kids can plug their crap in while flying and I can plug, up to a 10A (I wouldn't go over 5) charger. Works well and very convenient! You have to ignore the pimpmobile carpet! Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

That's most likely proprietary information, part of what sets them apart from the competition. On the other hand, please share what you do and how well it works. Eventually we will all hit in a combination that works for many of us. Won't be too long til mine are ready for new foam. They probably are already, I just disguise it with a gel pillow so I can see over the cowl.

If you've successfully launched and landed more than 10 times, then the first thing you should do is ignore the POH or Owners Manual and just fly what feels right. I use more take-off trim if I'm using flaps and less if I'm not using flaps. But regardless, push all the knobs full forward, and as soon as you're off the ground, raise the gear. Now with the gear tucked up, figure out what you want to do with trim, flaps, rate of climb, boost pump, etc. I'd always leave the power, prop, mixture full in unless it was hot and I had cooling issues. The first control to move for cooling is the prop. Back the RPM's down to 2500 and leave everything else full in. That usually keeps the C cool enough. On landing, I'm with Shadrach and Bob. If I'm coming in slow and steep with full flaps, I'll use full up trim. If no flaps with a long runway, I'll use a lot less trim. It's a simple airplane, just fly it the way it feels right and behaves well. And feel free to ignore the book.

Many thanks Guys. Sometimes the BS gets to thick, an I have to vent in order to breath properly agin.

Did not know this. They installed my engine and another mechanic at a different shop pointed out a laundry list of issues when I was getting some other work done. All were minor but incorrect nonetheless. Brian eventually took care of all of them and it runs great but it didn't sit well with me so I never went back. Started hearing bad rumors about the shop thereafter. Jason Doscher of Jed-Aire Aviation in Benson, MN (about 20 NW of Willmar) works on my plane now. He's a Mooney expert that use to work in Willmar before going on his own. You probably bought your plane through the same broker I did; Tim Lundquist. He's a good guy and was a pleasure working with.

They're here and more coming. Loved watching the B-25 land! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

After the kind suggestion from carusoam, I emailed Jimmy at All American. He replied to my email within 5 minutes and I thought I would post his hot start here, hopefully OK with him: "The Rocket, as you know, is the engine combination that is also on the Cessna 414 / 340. I have more experience cranking the 414 than the Rocket, but I do know one thing. It takes a lot of gas. What I would do is this: Full Throttle Full Mixture Prime for 5-6 seconds Pull Mixture fully back, to cutoff. Low Boost Pump ON right before you start cranking (to keep fuel getting to the engine until engine pump takes over) Normally, 5-10 seconds of cranking you will get a fire going in the engine. Slowly advance mixture. Adjust throttle to keep it running. You may have to 'jockey' the throttle and mixture back and forth until you get it running. Sometimes it makes no sense, but going back and forth on some engines will get it running. Other than that, I can't help much. But do know that the continental big bore engine, more often than not, will not start due to too little fuel, not too much fuel (flooding). On Lycomings, it is often times too much fuel." Note that Jimmy turns the LO boost pump on prior to cranking, sounds like a good idea, I will try it on my next stop and report back.

Right you are. I'm doing my first owner assisted annual right now. I have no idea what I'm doing and I've already found problems that "Professionals" left behind. Nobody cares about the condition of my plane more than I do.

Once again this community has been invaluable to me! I now have the correct boost pump installed and the correct fuel pressure gauge and can now move on to cosmetics and make the airplane look pretty. THANK YOU ALL.

IRAN that Sucker. Your not part:135 Its your Propeller, it should be your choice. Grease leak is a sign of Hard seals or Over serviced!!! To fix that, an O/H is way to evasive.

Box A28. Pm me for my cell number if you will be there.

Red right returning is for the Buoys / chanel markers on the channel.... not the other boats. We used to sit at the sailing club and watch the people run their boats on the shoals. Good times I tell you

OMG, YIKES Brian! Thanks for sharing, and glad you're still with us!! That is a horrifying picture. I may need to go the airport, un-cowl my plane, and trace all my fuel lines before I can get to sleep tonight!!

Every time you have the cowl off or opened, look, touch, tug, trace each hose with your eyes from fitting to fitting. Trace each wire. Touch nuts and fasteners. Touch spark plug caps for tightness.

On any engine inspection it is important to look for chafing lines and wires against engine components. A spark plug wire resting on the engine or magneto will eventually break due to engine vibration and chafing. Chafing is a silent troublemaker that can cause an engine to quit. To avoid chafing use ty-wraps to keep the lines/wires from getting in contact with engine components José

Um that's about the scariest maintenance item I've seen on the board.

I took my wife and her friend up once. Although the friend had flown commercial many times, she was very excited because she had never been in a private aircraft. When I opened the hangar and pulled the aircraft out by hand with the tow bar was when she said "I thought it would be bigger." We went up and flew around the local area, but we decided to land due to an approaching thunderstorm. After landing and while we were pushing the plane back into the hangar is when she said "I thought it would last longer." When I looked at her and told her what she had said she was soooooo embarrassed, but we have laughed about that for years. Yes, that happened.

Mike the foam is awesome, I also find that my sheepskins added a nice measure of comfort. My good friend has a Bo, another C-310, and Cardinal. In my opinion which is the only one that matters the Bravo is by far the most comfy for me and bride. That's with five hour legs.

Entry & exit are the only real issues I see. My wife makes her exit look very graceful from the co-pilot seat by swinging her legs and sliding out along the leading edge of the wing and gently landing on her feet there in front of the wing...but she makes it look good even when it's not graceful! Sitting beside my wife is where I kinda want to be touching elbows, if you know what I mean. It's all about mission. Recently took my 6'4", 230-lb brother and his two sons up for an hour of sightseeing around the Grand Coulee Dam. His sons are 10 & 14-yrs of age and I'm no cream-puff at 6'1" and 175-lbs...albeit, we were light on fuel and I emptied out the extra stuff in the baggage area, we were still easily within the CG limits for the airplane and landed with over 20 gallons of fuel remaining. And we were quite comfortable in flight I might add...certainly no complaints as my pax were doing nothing but GRIN! Good memories and the Mooney worked it's magic again!!

Honestly George, you don't have to live at a high density altitude location to benefit from the turbo and the redundancy of the 252. I have no disagreement that many turbo flights are done low. But on an average most of us make many more short flights than the make longer x-country flights and those short flights are usually done low for obvious reasons. But I can't recall ever a time that I went of any distance at or below 12K; I am always higher regardless of the direction. Plus I can't tell you how many times my flight would have been delayed at least a day if I didn't have the turbo capabilities to get on top and fly over the weather rather than it. And with the potential threat of icing, typically a NA aircraft evening with service ceilings in the low flight levels can be very disadvantaged with poor climb rates when they need to climb quickly. And like Jack expressed, redundancy has bailed me out numerous times being away from home, including having lost an alternator once in southern Mexico. It's something I would think you would value more as I assume your background is multi and turbine than single engine piston - but I may have misinterpreted your comments. Don't get me wrong either though, I think the 310 HP S & R's are excellent planes. But I also fly a new Acclaim for Mooney and I love it, but given the trade off's between the economy of operation and the faster speed of the Acclaim, I'll keep my 252 for now - which is also nearly fully converted to the Encore, which in IMHO. As for the O2 cannula and mask - using O2 has never bothered me. I don't know why some people don't like it and refer to it as a negative as you do. Even the NA crowd (which I like to poke fun at - all in jest :)) would benefit from less fatigue on longer x-country's in the lower teens if they used it. Known Ice FIKI is available for the 252 & Encore; so didn't understand your comment unless you were referring to a specific installation (maybe Jack's). I do agree entirely though that we may all prioritize our needs differently. For me, I could never imagine going back to a normally aspirated engine.

All this discussion is academic. The point of all this was to offer a different perspective to Doggtyred and I respectfully disagree with your opinion that TTC and TAS don't make the trip up to FL180 worth it for a NA big bore. With 310 sea level hp on tap, time to climb and TAS at FL180 is still quite respectable. From a TTC perspective, its a tortoise and hair deal. From SL to 10K a 310 hp Eagle/Ovation will out climb any mooney 231/252. After that the turbo starts to catch up...The last 8k of the climb the turbo might pull ahead by a small margin but it isn't significant. It would be interested to compare TTC and distance covered #'s of a 310 HP Eagle/Ovation and 231/252 to FL180 along with TAS in normal cruise. The "a-ha moment" for those not familiar with the various model choices is that Turbo's are good planes...but they have to be operated in certain areas of the envelope to get the most out of them. Turbo's are good for High DA runway operations and in cruise are good in one corner of the envelope (high, often times headed east and require rubber O2 hoses up the pilots noses:-). 231/252 with only 210 hp makes take off performance lackluster and come with some significant maintenance costs needed to keep the forced induction systems happy...not to mention the probability of a TOH nearly being a requirement about every 1000 hours. Big Bore NA Mooney's are good across the spectrum....Power to get off the ground quickly with short TO roll compared to a turbo. They are fast down low, fast enough up high and TTC is better in a 310 NA if we use 12K as the finish line. And that's how most turbos are flown, at 10-12K. Just check out Flight Aware...Most M20T's are flown in the mask-off-is-phere. http://flightaware.com/live/aircrafttype/M20T Anytime you're up for a race, let me know

Don't touch the brakes until the flaps are raised. I'll just run go put my flame suit on now ... ;-)

Nothing wrong with a tendency to go right. Now left, you've got a problem there...

Nevermind. I thought this was another political thread... (that was a joke)

Have another person at the other aileron and lift then with quite a bit of force. That will be where they sit in flight. From what yours looks, they will be about zero in flight.

If you don't have a FF meter (I don't either), here's what you do--use one tank only for the specific thing you need to measure. This will take 2-3 flights: FLIGHT 1 1) Top off your tanks 2) Fly the climb on one tank. Once you reach your alt, switch to the other tank. 3) Fly the cruise and decent on the other tank. 4) Figure out your climb burn based on time and gallons used in tank 1 5) Figure out your average burn for cruise + decent based on time and gallons used in tank 2 FLIGHT 2 1) Repeat, but use tank 1 for climb and decent so you can get an accurate cruise burn on tank 2 and extrapolate decent from FLIGHTS 1 and 2. Hope this helps!