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Posted

After nearly 20 years of ownership I had my first flat over 5 hours from home and no service available this past Saturday.  I have always used Goodyear Flight Special II with Michelin Leak Stop tubes and know to check and add air periodically, especially when the temperature drops.  On landing, it was apparent that I had a flat, and I knew not to try to "make it" to the intersection and taxiway.  The line guys brought a specially designed tire dolly, but with the gear doors, it requires jacking the plane to position it correctly.  One of the line guys had a strong back, so the two of us used our backs to lift her from under the wing........ Yes, I tipped the line guys very well.

I can change the tire this weekend after I drive 5.5 hours back to where she sits on the ramp, and I'll have to bring any tools back with me in the plane, so a wing jack may not be the best option.  I know I can use a bar and floor jack, but my question is, what kind of bar?  A previous thread suggested using the tow bar, but mine is not solid, which does not sound like a good idea.  I want to be prepared when I get there and have everything needed.

What size bar and what kind of material should I get, and where can I find it ?  I don't want to buy something that will bend and not lift the plane.

Posted

A friend of mine had a blow-out after landing his M20J in Dauphin Island a few months ago. He rented a car and brought the entire wheel home where A&P fixed it. I flew the 2 of us, the repaired wheel, a few tools, and an Alpha Aviation low wing jack in my M20E no problem. 

-David

Posted
1 hour ago, Bartman said:

 I know I can use a bar and floor jack, but my question is, what kind of bar?

I’ve stuck a 1” black pipe in the tube and used an automotive (Mazda) scissors jack (with some dunnage) to lift the main gear high enough to get my too-tall wing jack underneath the jack point.  That was in a hangar, though.  I don’t know about doing it outside on open ramp.  It was a hinky operation though, so I modified my homemade jacks short enough they’ll fit under the wing without jacking the main gear.

How hard is it to remove the inner gear door?  If you can take that off, since the brake caliper has to come off anyway, that scissors jack will also fit under the axle next to the brake disk. (I don’t think the caliper torque plate will be in the way, but you should check before driving 5.5 hrs.)  It’s a much better solution because gear donuts stay compressed thereby reducing the amount of lift required to get the tire off the ground.  Scissors jacks are on Amazon for < $50.  There’s one rated at 1.5T for < $25.  

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Posted

I used 1" dia steel bar through the hole in the gear truss, scissor jack from my old car that was high enough to lift the wheel and change tire and a jack stand for added security in similar situation.  

Posted
18 minutes ago, IvanP said:

I used 1" dia steel bar through the hole in the gear truss, scissor jack from my old car that was high enough to lift the wheel and change tire and a jack stand for added security in similar situation.  

That's what I needed to know. I can get a 1" diameter cold rolled rod at Tractor Supply, and I have a jack, blocks, and jack stand.  I should be good to go.   Thank you !

Posted
3 hours ago, Bartman said:

That's what I needed to know. I can get a 1" diameter cold rolled rod at Tractor Supply, and I have a jack, blocks, and jack stand.  I should be good to go.   Thank you !

I jacked up a C model with a 1" pipe, and the pipe flexed enough that we could barely get my wing jack in to lift it sufficiently to change the tire.   A solid rod should work better.  On the C model we couldn't get the tire quite off the ground with a pipe and a floor jack.

Posted
1 hour ago, IvanP said:

Solid rod is definitely a better choice here. I did this on a Bravo that is heavier than C and did not have much flex in the rod. 

Sure, I guess.  It just seems that if two guys can lift one wing up with their backs even a 1" steel hollow pipe should be plenty strong enough.

Posted
5 hours ago, MikeOH said:

Sure, I guess.  It just seems that if two guys can lift one wing up with their backs even a 1" steel hollow pipe should be plenty strong enough.

Depends on what you call "pipe."

Galvanized pipe, maybe; black gas pipe, probably; electrical conduit, definitely not.

Posted
4 hours ago, Hank said:

Depends on what you call "pipe."

Galvanized pipe, maybe; black gas pipe, probably; electrical conduit, definitely not.

This is the stuff that flexed.   1" galvanized.    I was surprised.  Part of the problem is that it is difficult to get a floor jack close enough to the MLG leg that there isn't a fair amount of lever arm on the pipe.   Regardless, a solid rod should be better.

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Posted
46 minutes ago, philiplane said:

https://aviationvibes.com/shop/jack-pad-adapter-for-cirrus-sr20-and-sr22/

I use these on Cirrus and other planes that have a hollow in the axle

I had a tool welded at a local shop that is very similar except that instead of a pad, I had a short piece of metal tube welded to the solid rod. The tube fits over a the top of a bottle jack just to stabilize it and the bottle jack lifts the solid rod. I use this when I only want to raise the nose wheel. I haven't tried it on the mains but it should work.

Posted

In a pinch, you can remove the threaded pad from the top of a bottle jack which leaves a hole in the top of the piston that will fit over the conical jack point. You will need some timbers to raise the bottle jack to the appropriate height. If you are on level, solid ground it's actually very stable since you are only lifting one wheel and the other two wheels provide stability. 

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