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Posted

I might need to find an replacement for my Alternator cooling cap in a M20K 252 with dual alternators.
It's the one mounted back at the firewall (Alternator #1 ? / #653344 )

It might be repairable, but a new/used would be great.

Where to find them?

 

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Posted

Common occurrence I think and I couldn’t find a replacement. But JB Plastic Weld works like a charm to glue it back securely and just check it with each oil change. If you take your time and glue it well it’s good to go!

It’s just a cooling shroud so doesn’t need to be perfect and pretty to do its job. 

EDIT: 653344 is the gear drive alternator part number, but you're right that belt driven alt considered #1 alternator.  IIIRC, I couldn't find the cooling shroud PN on the TCM parts catalog, and from the Mooney IPC it appears to be a Mooney part number?  I can't seem to find an email or details but I keep thinking that perhaps Mooney or LASAR could get them for around $600-700...or perhaps I just couldn't find one at all so I just glued it and still solid 2 annuals later.

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Posted
5 minutes ago, Coachella Bravo said:

Perhaps glue it back together, get it scanned, and then 3d printed in a high temp plastic???

Thinking of doing that as an option.

 

Posted

Contact Lasar - I ordered through them a couple of years ago. @Marc_B has the right IPC part info for the "Shroud Assembly". Lasar can get you the right part number based on your serial number and they may have one in stock or can get you one from Mooney.  Their online parts database isn't always up to date.

Posted
16 hours ago, shawnd said:

Contact Lasar - I ordered through them a couple of years ago. @Marc_B has the right IPC part info for the "Shroud Assembly". Lasar can get you the right part number based on your serial number and they may have one in stock or can get you one from Mooney.  Their online parts database isn't always up to date.

Thanks, will contact them.
What was the price back then?

 

Posted

For the moment I gave it the epoxy + carbon fiber weave treatment.
Good to have Black Wing manufacture as a neighbor :-)

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  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Nice!  I think this is one job that new definitely doesn't = better.  Probably the glue/epoxy will be stronger than the thin material this is made out of.  The heat cycles under the cowl have to be taxing on thin plastic materials!

Edit: And if you do ever replace it, post back up where you found a part available and cost!!

Edited by Marc_B
Posted
15 minutes ago, Marc_B said:

Nice!  I think this is one job that new definitely doesn't = better.  Probably the glue/epoxy will be stronger than the thin material this is made out of.  The heat cycles under the cowl have to be taxing on thin plastic materials!

Edit: And if you do ever replace it, post back up where you found a part available and cost!!

What is the original part #?
I have an #653344 alternator mounted, if the part # for the Cover is different?

I guess the eppoy + carbon fiber weave will last forever.
Sadly you can't see the carbon fiber pattern due to all the epoxy.

Will take more pictures tomorrow when everything has dried.
One of the tech's at Black Wing was willing to assist me to build a new one in carbon fiber.
Would be fun, but think it's over kill.



 

Posted

@Fix yeah the shroud is different part number, see the attached image from Marc.

 

With the epoxy treatment, make sure it bonds well with the plastic. Given its ABS (guess), it can de-laminate when pressure is applied the wrong way. The first shop used excessive RTV to fix mine, of course I hated it and had to replace it. 

Posted
7 minutes ago, shawnd said:

@Fix yeah the shroud is different part number, see the attached image from Marc.

 

With the epoxy treatment, make sure it bonds well with the plastic. Given its ABS (guess), it can de-laminate when pressure is applied the wrong way. The first shop used excessive RTV to fix mine, of course I hated it and had to replace it. 

I know, we'll see tomorrow how good it bonds.
I've cleaned it with with IPA, and if it's delaminate I guess I have a carbon fiber shell :-)

Did some test glue yesterday, on the black plastic. That bonded very well.
White/Yellow plastic is different plastic material.

Posted
59 minutes ago, Fix said:

What is the original part #?

Alternator cooling shroud assembly pn: 800053-501, -503, or -505.  I'm not sure what the differences are between them (I suspect they fit the profile for different alternators).  I added the effectivities to the screen shot above.  This was from the M20K IPC.

And it's interesting that you have #653344 alternator mounted?  The TCM parts catalog shows that as the gear drive alternator, and #649283 as the belt drive alternator.  I looked back and couldn't find a picture on my computer showing of my belt drive part number.  I'll have to take a look next time the cowl is off.

Posted

I am trying to fix up my interior panels and initially had plans for epoxy resin and fiberglass for back support. Ended up deciding to go with homemade ABS slurry with fiberglass for support. 

Let us know how it goes! 

Posted

Today I went to the hangar to see how the epoxy glue + carbon fiber weave went.

Super strong, can't bend it... Tried with quite much force...
Looks/Feels that Expoy/Carbon fiber weave bonded well with old plastic.
Now I just need to find a good way to mount it back to the Alternator.
For the moment, I used high heat silicon on one small part to attach it.

But saw that there are 2 round holes.
Where I think it would be possible to use Snap rubber grommet plugs, and then a screw or pin to attach/secure the cover instead of using silicon.

Lasar.com want $450 for a new...
If everything fails, then I buy a new one in future.

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snap rubber grommet plug.jpg

Posted
9 hours ago, Fix said:

Super strong, can't bend it... Tried with quite much force...
Looks/Feels that Expoy/Carbon fiber weave bonded well with old plastic.
Now I just need to find a good way to mount it back to the Alternator.
For the moment, I used high heat silicon on one small part to attach it.

Very nice! 

  • 4 months later...
Posted

Hello everyone,
I don’t fly a Money myself, unfortunately. However, I 3D-scanned the alternator cover for a friend and reconstructed it as an improved version. Since this seems to be a common issue and no replacement parts are available, I’d like to share the STL files with you for free.

Simply print the parts in ABS plastic, glue the two parts together with ABS adhesive, and they’ll fit perfectly. Take a look at the pictures. Unfortunately, I can’t upload the STL files directly, but if you send me an email at bastianjedwill@icloud.com, I’ll send you the files free of charge right away.

Have fun!
Greetings from Germany,
Bastian

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  • Like 4
  • Thanks 4
Posted
1 hour ago, Bastian said:

I 3D-scanned the alternator cover for a friend and reconstructed it as an improved version

Nice looking work.  I'm envious of our members who have (or have access to) 3D scanners, CNC plasma cutters, CNC machining, serious 3D printers and other new-age tools for producing parts.

Posted
16 hours ago, Bastian said:


I don’t fly a Money myself, unfortunately. However, I 3D-scanned the alternator cover for a friend and reconstructed it as an improved version. Since this seems to be a common issue and no replacement parts are available, I’d like to share the STL files with you for free.

 

Strong work! Nice of you to help. I'd bet you'd get some Mooney rides if you were visiting the US...

Posted

Nice work @Bastian!

Curious, if you or someone else was able to put the 3d printed shroud through some vertical and longitudinal load simulating engine moving the alternator which would put pressure against the clamped hose. The clamp usually breaks the connector even on the PMA pieces. 

Posted

Hi all,

Thank you very much for your positive response!
I’ve been using the new Creality Raptor 3D scanner with a blue laser.
It’s the first 3D scanner that has really worked well for me.
Some Mooney flights in the U.S. would be amazing—definitely a bit faster than my C150! ;)

 

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  • Thanks 1
Posted
12 hours ago, shawnd said:

Nice work @Bastian!

Curious, if you or someone else was able to put the 3d printed shroud through some vertical and longitudinal load simulating engine moving the alternator which would put pressure against the clamped hose. The clamp usually breaks the connector even on the PMA pieces. 

I am only minimally knowledgeable about fiberglass but I wonder if you could do a thin lay-up of glass or carbon to bond to the ABS to provide the necessary flex endurance. 

There are some real engineers on the board, maybe one of them will come along on a unicycle soon... 

Posted

You can also print the entire component using glass fiber-reinforced filament, but I don't think that's necessary. The original is also made of ABS and has only 1/3 the wall thickness of my design. Carbon fiber-reinforced plastic should only be used, if at all, with great caution because carbon fiber conducts electricity.

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