Chris Strube Posted May 26, 2019 Report Posted May 26, 2019 Does anyone have tips on replacing the roll pin in the door handle? Mine fell out, and I had to use my "mandatory" vise grips to get out. thanks, Quote
moodychief Posted May 26, 2019 Report Posted May 26, 2019 I have been using a large cotter pin. Quote
1967 427 Posted May 26, 2019 Report Posted May 26, 2019 The roll pin is spring steel which has a phenomenal memory. I have found the same situation on some old equipment at work. I found a nail with a larger diameter than the inside hole of the roll pin. Using a vice I was able to force the nail inside the roll pin, then used a smaller nail to tap out the larger nail. This opened up the diameter just enough to made it tight enough to hold in place. Quote
Skates97 Posted May 26, 2019 Report Posted May 26, 2019 3 hours ago, moodychief said: I have been using a large cotter pin. When I bought my plane it already had a large cotter pin there as well. It doesn't look as clean as a roll pin, but I don't have to worry about it falling out either. Quote
Guest Posted May 27, 2019 Report Posted May 27, 2019 5 hours ago, Chris Strube said: Does anyone have tips on replacing the roll pin in the door handle? Mine fell out, and I had to use my "mandatory" vise grips to get out. thanks, This S/I cover upgrades to the interior door handle. Clarence https://cdn2.hubspot.net/hubfs/4147179/technical_documents/service_instructions/sim20-39.pdf Quote
Chris Strube Posted May 27, 2019 Author Report Posted May 27, 2019 Lots of good ideas, thanks. I'm thinking that the cotter pin idea best fits the Mooney "cheap bastard" model. Problem is that cotter pins are soft steel, where a roll pin is hardened spring steel. However, I have my trusty vise grips. Quote
N201MKTurbo Posted May 27, 2019 Report Posted May 27, 2019 I used a clevis pin like the ones on the trim torque tube. You can’t use it with the plastic trim ring unless you split it. Quote
Andy95W Posted May 27, 2019 Report Posted May 27, 2019 I used the roll pin with safety wire through it to ensure it can't just fall out. 2 1 Quote
Guest Posted May 27, 2019 Report Posted May 27, 2019 18 hours ago, bluehighwayflyer said: The original owner of our C (We are the second) must have replaced the roll pin with a large head nail of the perfect diameter and cut to length that just rests in place. It has been there since 1982 when we purchased the plane. Jim The nail must have been from a wood wing Mooney! Clarence Quote
Dream to fly Posted May 28, 2019 Report Posted May 28, 2019 Don't have that problem anymore. New handle fits properly and a roll pin fits snug. Then a neoprene o-ring fits in the groove for added pin security and it looks clean.Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk 1 1 Quote
Chris Strube Posted May 28, 2019 Author Report Posted May 28, 2019 Where can I buy this handle, it looks much nicer than the originals? Quote
Mark Pavinich Posted June 4, 2019 Report Posted June 4, 2019 I am looking for a 78J door handle -- I need the square one -- -square at the base (not round) when the screw goes in. Or let me know a good place to look, if you have one for sale, send me a pic. Thanks. Quote
Chris Strube Posted June 4, 2019 Author Report Posted June 4, 2019 Hi Mark, I'm in the same position as you...I need a handle. I'm having one machined at my local shop, to match the one in the above picture. Cheapest one I could find was $325 on Ebay. good luck Quote
Mark Pavinich Posted June 4, 2019 Report Posted June 4, 2019 Hi Chris could you let me know approximatley how much your shop is charging, I may have to consider going the same route. Quote
Chris Strube Posted June 5, 2019 Author Report Posted June 5, 2019 Sure, I'll post that. I was told it might be as much as a case of beer! 1 Quote
Bob R Posted January 18, 2020 Report Posted January 18, 2020 OK, so here is my prototype new door handle made out of Titanium, yes Ti. (Thanks Mark) He is making me another after I make sure it fits properly. The final one, out of Titanium, will have a groove for the o-ring to keep the 3/16" roll pin in place. Since Ti is heaver than aluminum, I better go on a diet. Now it is on to making a set of 40:1 gears, pilot produced of course, for the landing gear. I'm thinking $5000 versus $0 as a no brainer. My buddy can take the existing or old gears in this instance, measure the hardness and make the set. Should be pretty easy and my AP is all for it. He did tell me one of his colleagues said the Cessna Flap actuator is a 40:1 set and are exactly the same. I believe this to be true as I have seen the whole actuator at a boneyard but did not measure the ratio. If I ever get off work early enough, I will swing by and check it out. I will try to find out more information on that subject. Before anyone pipes up and says the gears are not the same hardness and all that crap, just know you will be wrong. If you think that Cessna, Piper, Mooney, etc, who all use these types of gears manufacture their own, you would again be wrong. They are made from the same hardness steel and more than likely, from the same manufacturer or machine shop. These aircraft companies are not going to invest in the machines needed to mass produce the gears. Cheaper to have someone else do it and then gouge our wallets. Quote
MikeOH Posted January 19, 2020 Report Posted January 19, 2020 Hmm, whenever I think about "owner produced" parts I don't care what SGOTIs, or the FAA thinks. But, I do care what my insurance company might think after a failure is traced to a part made by anyone but the factory (or PMA). If my factory gears fail and cause a gear-up, and have had Part I and Part II inspections completed and logged, I have NO doubt insurance will pay out. What happens when their investigation reveals failed "homemade" gears to be the cause? Quote
G spot Posted January 19, 2020 Report Posted January 19, 2020 How would they know if a part is owner produced? Quote
GDGR Posted January 19, 2020 Report Posted January 19, 2020 On 5/27/2019 at 3:55 PM, M20Doc said: The nail must have been from a wood wing Mooney! Clarence This sounds like the previous CB owner of my F. Also used an old belt to replace the door pull strap. Quote
EricJ Posted January 19, 2020 Report Posted January 19, 2020 Owner Produced Parts are 100% legal if the requirements are met. I don't know how an insurance company could exclude that unless they have language in the policy saying that they could, which is something you could figure out by reading your policy. Quote
M20F Posted January 19, 2020 Report Posted January 19, 2020 5 hours ago, G spot said: How would they know if a part is owner produced? Titanium 40:1 gears are a little obvious. That said I wouldn’t sweat it. Quote
whiskytango Posted January 19, 2020 Report Posted January 19, 2020 5 hours ago, G spot said: How would they know if a part is owner produced? Logbook entry. When my first K model had an engine failure, and I made an off-airport landing, the insurance company wanted copies of my logbooks as part of the claim documents. Quote
MikeOH Posted January 20, 2020 Report Posted January 20, 2020 12 hours ago, G spot said: How would they know if a part is owner produced? Logbook entry showing installation and traceability. Isn't that required when a part is replaced? Sure, if you want to leave the entry out of the logs entirely... Quote
MikeOH Posted January 20, 2020 Report Posted January 20, 2020 6 hours ago, EricJ said: Owner Produced Parts are 100% legal if the requirements are met. I don't know how an insurance company could exclude that unless they have language in the policy saying that they could, which is something you could figure out by reading your policy. Ah, and there's the rub, "IF THE REQUIREMENTS ARE MET." Absent the original Mooney drawings and/or requirements just how do you plan on establishing that the requirements are, in FACT, met? Quote
RLCarter Posted January 20, 2020 Report Posted January 20, 2020 Doesn't the reg allows you to duplicate a part, but not change its design? Quote
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