252 oil change

[larryb]

The first time I changed the oil in my 252 Encore a lot of oil drained out of the oil filter attachment nipple. It almost filled a 16 oz water bottle I had handy, after making a mess of my nose tire. Today I am planning oil change #2, and was wondering, do people let all this oil drain out, or is there a risk of un-priming the oil pump? I an inclined to connect a plastic tube to it and let it all drain, but wanted to ask the group.

I have read over on Beechtalk about some Continental motors losing their oil pump prime. I am not sure if that applies to the 252 motor or not.

Thanks, Larry

[kortopates]

Loosing prime is not an issue till it sits for months; regardless of changing the oil filter and oil.
It's easily regained by removing the top plugs and using the starter about 15-30 sec at a time till oil pressure comes up.


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[Bryan]

Another 252 pilot at my field uses this "Form a Funnel" http://amzn.to/2tHxdD6 with safety wired in place to catch the drips and funnel them to the collection tray.  I have also heard of using baby diapers around the filter in my 231 to catch as much.  It *worked* mostly but the angle was hard to get the filter off without spilling more outside - I still made a *smaller* mess.

I have also heard a large ziplock bag or two around works well.  I have done two oil changes so far so I have not perfected my method yet.

[gsxrpilot]

Yep, got the oil changed in my 252 just this morning. There was a bit of spillage on the nose gear, tire, and floor. It's a continuing problem.

[WilliamR]

On my 252 I use a gallon sized zip-loc bag around the filter after I've initially loosened it.  It takes quite awhile for most of the oil to flow out and fills most of the bag.  I simply hold the bag waiting like 5 minutes which is hard because I usually can't sit still for more than 3.  I also make sure I have a filter at the ready to put on.  An absorbent pad tucked between the cowl flap bar and firewall under the filter catches any errant drips. 

I rarely make a mess.  The form a funnel would be a good replacement to my absorbent pad.

 

William

 

[Guest]

Some form of deflector to direct the oil into a bucket, then punch a hole in the bottom of the filter radius beside the nut.  Let it drain while doing other stuff.  Pre fill the new filter with new fresh oil to help establish oil pressure faster on restart.

Clarence

[Bryan]

I think I am going to try this next.  Bought the "Form a Funnel" off of Amazon but need to punch a couple of holes in the top corners so tie the safety wire too and then punch the old filter to let it drain using the form-a-funnel to direct to my collection tray.  I, too, fill as much of the new filter as I can before screwing back on.

[Stephen]

Re: the mess part of the issue, My last A&P uses a 2-3' long piece of 90 degree "L" shaped (high density cardboard? Plastic?) scrap that was used as as corner packing protection for a large appliance (like a refrigerator or something). It is shaped like angle iron but made of something softer. It is cut slightly on the end so he can slide it in from the side until it is nestled snugly under the oil filter seam that mates to the engine. Because it slides in at a slight upward sloping angle to the filter, when the filter is loosened the oil runs downward and outboard into a catch bucket positioned under the other end. He lets that drain while doing other stuff and unscrews the filter and takes it out basilly with little to no spillage. Same piece gets reused over and over in the shop so it doesn't seem to fall apart when exposed to the oil.

[markejackson02]

Drill a hole in the filter with a #30 bit, open the quick drain valve and go to lunch.  Filter will be completely empty when you get back and no mess.

 

[larryb]

Thanks for all of the replies. The oil change yesterday went much better. I used 3 techniques, one of which I read about here.

First, I used the ziplock bag technique to hold the filter and most of the oil that drained out. This worked well.

Second, I used a "bib" or a plastic sheet that I taped to the firewall and draped over the nose wheel. This kept any escaping oil drops off of the tire and gear.

Third, I used a rubber tube on the oil filter attachment nipple. After I removed the filter, in the ziplock, I attached the tube to drain the residual oil into a bucket. I let this drain for a few minutes while I prepared the new filter and supplies. 

With all of this, I got only minor spillage on the bib and cleanup was pretty easy.

Larry

[CaptRJM]

I drain the filter by first punching a hole in the bottom.  I set up a piece of aluminum siding 90 degree corner trim and let oil run into it and down into a bucket.  You can get the trim at any Home Depot or Lowes for a couple of bucks. Never have any mess.

[DonMuncy]

I changed the oil in my 231 yesterday. For the first time, I had no mess. (Actually, I lost about 3 drops, when I removed and replaced the hose to catch my sample for oil analysis).

I used a dual system. First, a gallon plastic zip-lock baggie around the filter after loosening it. It is a bit of a PITA turning the filter inside the baggie, but doable. One problem with the 231 is the fact that when the filter comes off, it has to be turned in multiple directions to clear the linkage operating the cowl flaps, but the zipped up baggie does a pretty good job of that. Another problem is that when the filter is removed, the connector fitting continues to drip. This is where the second (back up) comes in. I built the attached drain channel to catch this. The channel snaps up under the transverse cowl flap rod and directs the oil the baggie didn't catch into an oil drain pan. Painful to have clean all this up, but far better than cleaning up the bottom of the firewall and nose tire.

Oil Drain.doc

[Jsavage3]

It’s a $40 tool but it works great...it’s a Tempest Easy Drain AA473 Oil Filter Drain Tool sold by Aircraft Spruce (Part # 12-02248).  I’ve used it for my last two oil changes and have literally not spilled a drop.  While the quick drain on the reservoir is draining thru its 3-foot piece of tubing, I strap this tool to the filter (as low as possible), screw in the plunger, fasten another 3-foot piece of tubing (provided) to this tool then back the plunger out and go to lunch while the oil drains. Once done, I remove the tool and put a piece of tape across the hole in the filter before I use an oil filter wrench to loosen the old filter.  No mess , no headache, money well spent IMHO.

Edited August 11, 2018 by Jsavage3

[Bryan]

I have done all the techniques listed above, including the form-a-funnel but after many more oil changes, this is what works for me on a 231 and now my 252. (same filter attachment)

• I use the tempest train attachment like @Jsavage3. I attach the hose and let the oil drain out for a long time. 
• I then remove the tool and cover the hole punch with a small piece of tape.
• Then I have some doggy-poop baggies left over from a recent Pilots-N-Paws trip that are just wide enough to fit around the filter while I unscrew.  They are also very tall and allows for the filter to be manipulated out of the 231/252 hoses and brackets without spill-age.  These baggies are super cheap for 300.
• At the same time draining the filter, i also drain the oil sump into by bucket.
• I use a couple of paper towels to wipe the incoming drips on the oil filter adapter and the quick-drain.

 

I have always pre-loaded my new filter with new oil and it is a balancing act getting it back in and on in the small maze of the 252.  This past weekend, I made it with no drops lost.

[Guest]

Don’t forget to check the suction screen. Item 37.

Clarence

Edited August 12, 2018 by M20Doc