CaptRJM

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About CaptRJM

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    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Southport, NC
  • Reg #
    N1161P
  • Model
    M20K

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  1. Mine used to slip anytime it was wet and I had to exert a fair amount of pressure going uphill into the hangar. Turns out Redline recognized the problem and has a upgraded drive drum that eliminates the problem. But, don't think it will resolve issues in snow.
  2. Parts manual covers a range of S/Ns. Mooney may have used several different parts during a range of aircraft. Parts manual needs to be used as a guide, not an absolute.
  3. The yoke mounted trim switch is notorious. Three microswitches and small diameter spring wire is all that makes it work. Dirt, wear and number of cycles all add up to it not working. Just for grins I’d loosen it from the yoke and give it a good dousing of a good contact cleaner like DetoxIT
  4. R and L caps are the same with stock tanks. Shaw part number is on the bottom of the cap so you don’t have to guess. I’d check the usual sources for a used one. I’d think a new one will be quite expensive. Hard to believe you didn’t get any damage to the wing. It must have flapped around for a little while until the lanyard failed.
  5. If you are flexible to considering alternatives other than a MSC I'd recommend my shop, Oak Island Aviation, at KSUT. The owner built and flew his first plane at age 12. He is an aeronautical engineer and IA who worked for Cessna an CJs for about 10 years before deciding to get out of the corporate environment and open his own shop. My plane was serviced by a well known MSC for at least 20 years before I purchased it. He discovered numerous "oversights, mistakes and omissions" when he went thru the plane. He regularly services at least 20 Mooney's from all over the SE.
  6. +1 for Bevan. They completely overhauled my KX 165 for around $1200. Works as good as new.
  7. I have been flying my K for almost 1000 hours and simply love it. Since I live in N.C. and the vast majority of my missions are in the SE folks will tell you a K is a waste of money. After a lot of XCs I will disagree. In the mid teens I true out between 170-175 running LOP at 65% power (9.9 GPH). However, my typical mission is 4-600miles each way so I can take advantage of winds aloft. Another other big benefit is to get out of most thermal activity and get a smooth ride. More than once we’ve been comfortable at 16K where at 12K you’d be getting bounced around in hard IMC. But with a mission of less than 200 miles you can’t take advantage of the high altitude performance of the K to justify the additional operating expenses. The J model is also slightly faster below 8K. If I were in your situation I wouldn’t consider any Turbocharged aircraft.
  8. The interior screws are typically #4 sheet metal screws with trim washers. You can use a #6 screw and still use the #4 trim washer. It looks a little different but not objectionable if it’s only a few screws. You can also make a shim out of some bare copper wire like 20-22awg. Cut pieces about 1” long and fold them tightly in half using pliers. Then insert one side inside the hole leaving the other half outside. This effectively reduced the hole so the #4 will have something to bite into. There are some professional products out there made out of stainless that will do the same thing if you want to go that route. Other methods like converting to machine screws by using nutserts or 3M Dual Lock for a no screw look are also other methods.
  9. Bottom of the green is OK. Are your vacuum instruments working properly? From what I’ve been told, from several sources, is that you don’t need to run excessive vacuum. The higher the vacuum, the more wear on the instruments.
  10. Lemon Pledge! I wipe it down every 25 hours or so. 3 cans for $10 at Sam's Club
  11. When I purchased my 231 I picked it us at a well known MSC. I asked why the cowl flaps did not close completely. The service manager explained that a slight 1/2” opening will improve cooling and won’t affect airspeed. I've left it alone for 12 years. I can’t see any loss of speed. My oil temp in cruise is always around 170F. #2 cylinder which is the hottest is typically 365F.
  12. Looked at my plane. You can’t remove the pin on the turbo inspection door. If your door is discolored from heat I’d investigate as to why, not just throw some insulation at it. The turbo is not supposed to get so hot that it burns the paint. If it is, you most probably have some delamination of the cowl fiberglass.
  13. Im not aware that the piano hinge on the inspection door can be separated by removing the pin. I can’t get to my plane until middle of next week to look. Worst case you end up masking the cowl around the door and covering the plane with plastic to respray the door. Not a big deal either way.
  14. Are you talking about the cowl flaps or the turbo inspection door? The cowl flaps are hinged with 2 bolts which are easily removed. The inspection door has a piano hinge.