CaptRJM

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About CaptRJM

  • Rank
    Senior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Southport, NC
  • Reg #
    N1161P
  • Model
    M20K

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  1. Lemon Pledge! I wipe it down every 25 hours or so. 3 cans for $10 at Sam's Club
  2. When I purchased my 231 I picked it us at a well known MSC. I asked why the cowl flaps did not close completely. The service manager explained that a slight 1/2” opening will improve cooling and won’t affect airspeed. I've left it alone for 12 years. I can’t see any loss of speed. My oil temp in cruise is always around 170F. #2 cylinder which is the hottest is typically 365F.
  3. Looked at my plane. You can’t remove the pin on the turbo inspection door. If your door is discolored from heat I’d investigate as to why, not just throw some insulation at it. The turbo is not supposed to get so hot that it burns the paint. If it is, you most probably have some delamination of the cowl fiberglass.
  4. Im not aware that the piano hinge on the inspection door can be separated by removing the pin. I can’t get to my plane until middle of next week to look. Worst case you end up masking the cowl around the door and covering the plane with plastic to respray the door. Not a big deal either way.
  5. Are you talking about the cowl flaps or the turbo inspection door? The cowl flaps are hinged with 2 bolts which are easily removed. The inspection door has a piano hinge.
  6. The painters tape trick is what I used for the seat bottom panel as I have the fold down rear seats. Worked great.
  7. I used SEM Warm Grey in my 231. I have medium/dark red leather seats and trim and carpet I installed is a similar grey. I thought it came out fine and I've gotten quite a few compliments.
  8. I just laid the old panel inside the new one and marked the fore/aft position of the holes .... then I allowed for the right/left offset caused by having them inside each other and drilled away. Worked fine ... I don't remember having any holes that required elongation.
  9. You might want to check out Triad in Burlington, NC. Very respected. They do a lot of work for The Fighter Factory in Virginia Beach. Also have prop shop at same location. They resealed a T6 prop while I waited a few years ago.
  10. You can go with a MaxDim and get rid of the factory dimmers. STC’ed for Mooney.
  11. Why don’t you consider a vertical card compass. They are around the same cost and there is a Mooney specific mount available.
  12. If it’s a Continental, #2 is the most rear cylinder on the left side of the plane. They get a little less cooling and on a TSIO 360 it’s next to the oil cooler that is also radiating heat. This explains a minor elevation in #2 CHT but if you are getting a large difference then baffles might be the problem. Cylinder 3 is the center cylinder on a the right side. It really has no direct bearing on #2 CHT.
  13. From what I can tell from my logbooks the 165 installed in my plane is one of the two originals from 1982. I can’t find anything indicating that radios we we repaired or replaced. I haven’t touched it since I purchased the plane 13 years ago. Maybe I’m lucky but 37 years before failure seems pretty darn good.
  14. I was in a similar situation 3 years ago. I kept the 165 .... although the Nav side started acting up 3 months ago. Bevan overhauled the 165 for $1400. Now it works great and hopefully will last a long while. I didn't go with a Garmin GNC 255 as although it was cosmetically a nice radio, it didn't add any real functionality. All in, it would have been another $6 AMUs to swap the 165 for a new 255. Looking at resale, the -21 (14 Volt) 165s are commanding decent prices if they are in great operational shape with nice faceplate & lenses. Having a yellow tag would be a big plus.