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Posted

I will be getting this transferred to a common cad file and laser cut. I purposely left the outer perimeter slightly larger than required so I can trim to fit exactly how I want. I'll be happy to share the file with you once I get it. 

Posted

If you need help with the CAD I can do it.  I work with reproducing model plane plans that are then used on a CNC laser cutter or CNC foam cutter so this should be no problem.  

I have couple friends 65 E models I can reference if needed.

Tim

Posted (edited)

Thank you very much! It looks like this file is the left side only. Do you have the right or center section?

M20c panel left.png

Edited by FBV
added picture
Posted

 

Here are a few photos that illustrate the fact that there IS structure behind the panel that drives a lot of the design.  The upper center section has two tube sections that dictate how deep anything gets until you drop down far enough.  That's why upper center section good for switches, etc.  The right hand section has a diag. tube that really gets in the way of anything until you go far right.  Then you have to go up high enough to miss the yoke control rod.  Take a look at the right side of my panel, you won't see too many Mooneys with much of anything there, It was a trick to get the stack of radios in, first the deeper ones, stepping down to the shallow audio panel, just tucked in above the yoke rod.  Also, don't forget..when you go and tilt the entire height of the left panel, the height dimension that the upper instruments now take up is much greater as they must still fit under the lip of the opening on the base panel, just below the windshield.  All of this stuff fits like a glove, with next to no "wiggle" room.  Have fun...I have a couple of "trial panels" hanging on my hangar wall..a hair off one way or the other and back to the CAD program, drawing board, drill press, fly cutter, bandsaw. 

panel wiring - right.jpg

right radio stack - fit.jpg

panel right base.jpg

panel 2 s.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

I just traced the old panel onto a sheet of aluminum, rough cut it and then sanded it with a disc sander. Transfer the mounting holes as well and take out the bottom shock mounts and you will have the perfect angle. For the side, you will have a big gap. Measure the top and the bottom and then get a piece of angle and cut it to fit. 

mooney.jpg

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  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks. As far as the panel tilt goes. Keep the top shock mounts, remove the bottom and you will have a perfect tilt. The side piece is from angle aluminium and just measure from the top, down and cut it with a band saw. The tab for the AS and Vertical Climb, I used a template for the drill holes and the hole itself then free-handed the tabs on a router table.  

Posted

robert, do you really like your dynon D1?  Have you ever seen false indications in different phases like slowing down / pitching up?

Also, has it ever lost GPS signal?

  • 6 years later...
Posted

Reviving an old thread here. All photos and attachments were lost. Can anyone elaborate on how they are attaching their flat panels? One member mentioned removing the bottom rubber mounts only. I was really curious to see what this looks like. Also were the top mounting brackets retained that attach directly to the panel?

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, Gippy87 said:

Can anyone elaborate on how they are attaching their flat panels?

Call Dan at LASAR.  They have a kit with the isolators and stand-offs to mount a flat panel.  The isolators at the bottom sit in cups (part of the kit) that help prevent panel sag.  The kit resulted in an 8 degree panel tilt in my ‘63C.

image.jpeg.56b3fe88d6de577589e7d4fdb5c2a25b.jpeg

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