MarkC

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About MarkC

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Lawrenceville, GA
  • Reg #
    N6727N
  • Model
    M20C

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  1. I have had a little experience with this situation too. Once you have addressed the O rings and cotter pins as others have posted above, I have another item to check if you still have the issue. My cap levers did not want to "snap" down and firmly close either. They actually wanted to stand up a little from the down and closed position. I disassembled the caps and noticed that the flat surface on the bottom of the lever no longer had a sharp 90 degree corner at the edge where it rotates up. I used a belt sander and sanded the flat bottom of the lever to return it much closer to a sharp 90 degree turn at the edge. Over time, the open and closing operation of the lever had worked that sharp turn down on my fuel cap levers. Now the snap closed rather smartly and stay there. Mark
  2. DXB, you are correct with the parts manual reference. I was looking at the wrong model in the parts manual. So it is 55 in the parts manual that I am referring to. I will have to check the carb heat connection on mine and report back. I am certain it is connected someplace because it works!
  3. Here's a picture of the opening. The parts manual shows it and notes it as "Tube, Blast". The cap has been removed as I took the picture.
  4. I have a question about the engine baffle on my M20C. Right behind the #3 cylinder on the back side of the baffle there is a round ~1 inch diameter opening that has a flange where it looks like you would attach a vent tube. But, mine has the opening capped with a plastic cap held in place with a hose clamp. Should that flange have a length of scat tube attached that runs down to the bottom of the engine compartment for venting? It sure seems like it would help reduce the engine temps on #3. Any advice appreciated.
  5. +1 to check for an intake leak. This was the cause for me once. Mark
  6. Planning to fly the Fisk arrival on Saturday and camp. I am not caravan certified so I will have to pass on that, but I am looking forward to seeing and meeting a lot of fellow MooneySpacer's this summer!
  7. Yes, sorry about that. I meant to say I would like to have one for the co-pilot side. If that is possible just let me know how much to send!
  8. I would love to have 1 for the pilot side as well if that's possible. -Mark
  9. Nice installation Jose. W4ZF here. I sense there may be a Mooney HF net about to get started... Mark
  10. I am sorry to report that the autograph is no longer there. I read the part where Gordon said that Al had signed the flashing near the instrument panel, but I cannot find any evidence of that. I'm not sure where exactly this would place the signature. The panel itself was re-configured many years ago to a standard six pack. I have noticed that the flashing on the co-pilot's side appears to have been replaced at some point. Perhaps someone kept a souvenir along the way sometime.
  11. I can second Andy's recommendation on the book. It is a great read especially for any Mooney fan. And by the way, I am the current owner of Gordon Baxter's M20C. The old girl is still flying well. Mark
  12. Thanks again everyone. I disconnected the aileron as described and found an access hole. But the access hole on my plane was not aligned directly with the nut on the servo. I did use a right angle wrench and it was just enough to remove the nut turning it about 1/16th of a rev each time I engaged it. So I was able to remove the servo and reattach the tubing and it now appears to be securely attached. Thanks for all the good advice.
  13. Thanks for the input guys. You are confirming a lot of what I am seeing
  14. The vacuum tube has become disconnected from the right wing servo for the PC system on my C model. I have studied it as best I can but cannot see how to get access to the rear to see how to reconnect. Any advice?