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About MarkC

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    Lawrenceville, GA (KLZU)
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  1. It looks like it could be, but I am not sure. So I wanted to check in here to see if anyone knew for sure.
  2. I need to replace the 2.5 inch ID duct tubing on the top of the cabin heat box assembly pictured below. The part number is 760016-505, but I cannot locate a translation of that into any specifications (i.e. temperature handling) needed to order a replacement. Does anyone have any information on this? Actually, mine is missing the dump tube, number 80 in the diagram, that connects to the top of the box and dumps down near the cowling. Thanks, Mark
  3. Hi John, Thanks for checking in. I elected to just replace the LASAR with two new Slick magnetos. The feedback I kept getting from the mechanic was scarcity of parts and difficulty to maintain. I am still waiting on the mechanic to complete the work, but I hope to have it done soon. I hope that the regular mags helps the CHT issue a bit. There is another thread on M20C CHT's that is very active right now and makes for some really interesting reading. I have made a few changes to 27N since you last saw her. I have updated some of the avionics and re-done the interior. I will
  4. Thanks for all the feedback. I think I am going to remove the LASAR and most likely go back to standard magnetos. But, I will take a look at Surefly for one.
  5. I am looking for thoughts on this ignition system. My Mooney has an early version of the LASAR electronic ignition installed. It has come time for the Mag inspection. My particular version of the LASAR ignition has circuit boards in each of the two mags and the condenser is located on a box mounted on the firewall long with other controlling electronics. The plane is down for it's annual right now and I had asked the mechanic to inspect and repair as necessary the mags. His recommendation is to replace the LASAR ignition with standard Slick magnetos. The point he made was this is an old
  6. I have had a little experience with this situation too. Once you have addressed the O rings and cotter pins as others have posted above, I have another item to check if you still have the issue. My cap levers did not want to "snap" down and firmly close either. They actually wanted to stand up a little from the down and closed position. I disassembled the caps and noticed that the flat surface on the bottom of the lever no longer had a sharp 90 degree corner at the edge where it rotates up. I used a belt sander and sanded the flat bottom of the lever to return it much closer to a sharp 90
  7. DXB, you are correct with the parts manual reference. I was looking at the wrong model in the parts manual. So it is 55 in the parts manual that I am referring to. I will have to check the carb heat connection on mine and report back. I am certain it is connected someplace because it works!
  8. Here's a picture of the opening. The parts manual shows it and notes it as "Tube, Blast". The cap has been removed as I took the picture.
  9. I have a question about the engine baffle on my M20C. Right behind the #3 cylinder on the back side of the baffle there is a round ~1 inch diameter opening that has a flange where it looks like you would attach a vent tube. But, mine has the opening capped with a plastic cap held in place with a hose clamp. Should that flange have a length of scat tube attached that runs down to the bottom of the engine compartment for venting? It sure seems like it would help reduce the engine temps on #3. Any advice appreciated.
  10. +1 to check for an intake leak. This was the cause for me once. Mark
  11. Planning to fly the Fisk arrival on Saturday and camp. I am not caravan certified so I will have to pass on that, but I am looking forward to seeing and meeting a lot of fellow MooneySpacer's this summer!
  12. Yes, sorry about that. I meant to say I would like to have one for the co-pilot side. If that is possible just let me know how much to send!
  13. I would love to have 1 for the pilot side as well if that's possible. -Mark
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