Browncbr1

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Browncbr1 last won the day on April 5

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About Browncbr1

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    Won't Leave!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    KTYS - Knoxville, TN
  • Reg #
    N9564M
  • Model
    67 M20F

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  1. Browncbr1

    Brittain Autopilot Systems

    Sorry, thought all this was documented in an old thread... Haven't been too active on MS lately. set G5 to AC +/-15v signal (.75 per degree, 3.75/5) This works for the B-12 DG gain box and also for the B-818 HSI adapter box if you are upgrading to a G5 from an NSD360 or similar. Brittain G5 Dwg Rev A.pdf
  2. Browncbr1

    Vne adjusted for altitude?

    around 10k in the summer, TAS is about 20kts higher than IAS, so I just figure my VNE is about 180mph at 10k instead of 200, and I typically don't go higher than that in the summer. I typically descend in the upper green range and try to slow up a little more below 6000 for unexpected turbulence.
  3. Browncbr1

    Oh, the pattern entry!

    Don’t let my comment deter your from going to tune. Just be careful.. the couple times I’ve goen there, I come from the east north of bna on vfr vector, then midfield fly over for downwind RIGHT pattern. The towers I was talking about are north on the other side of the river.
  4. Browncbr1

    Oh, the pattern entry!

    The couple of times I've been to Tune, it was the same experience as the OP. I was talking to someone in a pa-32 on long straight-in final while I was downwind about to turn base and he admitted he couldn't even see anything over his nose/cowl. I couldn't see him so I just asked him if he was past the towers yet.. . Plus, the egg beaters were all around. When going into Tune, need to have your head on a swivel... It doesn't seem many people fly the pattern there.
  5. Thank you everyone for the comments. I agree that the application method is as important as the paint itself. I’m not looking for perfect match. Just close enough and functional for protecting bare metal. I’m just going to dress my prop with oil after each flight rather than worry about that prop paint. Sounds like epoxy may be the most durable. I’ll take an inspection plate to an automotive paint shop and see what they have on the shelf. Will look for sherwin Williams auto and nason.. thanks all!
  6. flying through rain has my wing looking like it could be mistaken for TKS from afar... well, not quite, but it's getting bare.. Does anyone have a recommendation for rattle can touch up that is more durable that the average rustoleum or krylon cans?
  7. Browncbr1

    Log Review - Knoxville/Crossville, TN

    I am in knoxville, KTYS... If need help, let me know..
  8. Browncbr1

    Summmer Leaning on Approach

    Right, if on an approach, then I go full rich if I haven't broken out before about 200-300ft above DA.. power on approach with full rich seems ok.. it's the power off full rich that seems to cause build up.
  9. Browncbr1

    Big, medium, small

    never heard of "regular expensive" before.. i'll have to use that one when explaining upgrades to my wife!
  10. Browncbr1

    Summmer Leaning on Approach

    I'm flying an IO-360, so I'll only comment on leaning. I have found that leaving the engine leaned to peak or LOP from cruise all the way down to landing results in a smooth running engine with little chance of fouling. descending from cruise altitude, I will only touch mixture if any roughness occurs... once on the ground, I give a few more twists to further lean to where it is near cut off.. keeps the engine happily purring.
  11. Browncbr1

    Kelly Aerospace Rebuilt Mags

    Stay away from Kelley “overhauled” mags
  12. Thanks Don, noted that all panels need to come off. I’m thinking just drain tank, remove panels and apply poly gone, then come back the next day to scrap and reapply. I have plastic razors that do pretty good. I’m thinking just reseal the entire seam, rather than trying to find where along the seam is leaking. Thanks!
  13. My fuel tank sealant has been holding up for the most part, given the sealant age. However, I'm guessing a little bit of turbulence has caused a lap seam to start leaking. This is the one skin seam that goes front to back. I want to just patch it and while I'm in there, patch a short outboard section of the seam that goes laterally along top of the wing. I will be using polygone gel. Are these lap joints particularly difficult to access and remove sealant? Should I remove the outboard access panels to access top and bottom seams , or all access panels?
  14. If you’re going to spend the money, I would be much more impressed by higher frequency of oil changes with high quality oil and avblend rather than money thrown to blackstone.