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Browncbr1 last won the day on April 5 2018

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About Browncbr1

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    KTYS - Knoxville, TN
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    67 M20F

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  1. Yea, you’re right. White bottle, black goop. I was thinking about the permatex aviation thread sealant I also have.
  2. Paper intake riser gaskets seem to last about 5 years. I keep them on the shelf as an expected replacement item from time to time. I have the white permatex Aviation sealant Byron is talking about, which I’ll try on the gaskets next time and maybe get better life out of them. The OP describes textbook induction leak symptoms, which I’ve had a few times.
  3. When I bought my plane, my a&p at the time found a fatigued support brace, which is the same part that you are talking about, except for the F model. It holds the bottom of the baffle from moving forward or backward. It was a joke how flimsy the original was, so he made a new brace out of 4130 bar stock. It only needs to be 1/16” - 1/8” thick and 1/2” wide.. cut to length, drill both ends for bolt holes and bend each end at 90 degrees for F model, but looks like you don’t need to bend for the dog house version. overkill, but you won’t have to worry about it again. It does not mount at top. The bar goes front to back. The front is mounted on the baffle and on the F model, the back is mounted to the top right bolt that holds the ram air boot to the servo. So, on yours, it probably mounts to the carb somewhere.
  4. I had these symptoms once before and it turned out the be an induction leak. Replaced intake riser gaskets and problem went away. I’d make sure my plugs aren’t lead fouled first though.
  5. I have one available too... pm me if interested
  6. Flew today and rock solid stable voltage and also noticed less/no RF noise. My strike finder doesn’t have the crazy phantom strikes anymore either. All seems good for now, except I found that now my left fuel tank sprang another leak I’ll have to address soon. Oh well.
  7. IFR rating/proficiency will triple the usefulness of your plane during certain times of the year. I’m ok to fly hard IFR, but I try to avoid single engine over widespread LIFR and I don’t fly single engine at night over terrain like around these parts.
  8. This reminds me,, I have a serviceable as removed generator on my shelf if anyone needs it. Free to any cheap bastards out there, as long as I don’t have to ship it.
  9. @chriscalandro Congratulations! You’re now on my very exclusive blocked list!! Hip hip, Hurray!
  10. Well, I am at the hangar and started and the engine side and checked continuity for ground and worked my way back to the panel. All ok. Then I found that the main power cable from the alternator to the bus bar had a loose connection at the breaker. I tightened that and then found a loose ground where the jpi was grounded. I flipped the master and now voltage reading on jpi is same as the cigarette plug. Yay! i haven’t flown it yet, but I’m confident this solved the problem. I guess I should have thoroughly trouble shot this from the beginning!
  11. Test flew today. Voltage is still unstable. Perhaps more unstable. I’ll be checking jpi power and ground connections.
  12. When I replaced mine, we had to loosen the top left motor mount in order to get enough clearance from the firewall for the plunger to go back in correctly. Triple check you have the correct pump. Some people got the wrong one that delivers too much pressure.
  13. With engine off and mixture cut off, run aux pump to build pressure. Turn off aux pump and watch pressure. It should hold.