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Browncbr1 last won the day on April 5 2018

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About Browncbr1

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    KTYS - Knoxville, TN
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  • Model
    67 M20F

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  1. The drawings have been done for a long time.. see attached two alternate methods. I was told they sent these to Garmin, but my guess is that no one pushed or followed up with Garmin. Brittain G5 Dwg Rev A.pdf G5 Hook Up, No Transformers.pdf
  2. I did not turn the autopilot power off at the switch. I only hit the disconnect button on the yoke, which does not kill power to the AP system. So, I’ll see if it still sticks even when turning the AP power switch off.
  3. It’s definitely the pitch servo.. yesterday, I turned off the electric trim and just trimmed manually for the whole flight. After disconnecting, it did it again.
  4. I spoke with Gensys and they say it sounds like a pitch servo solenoid is sticking.
  5. I have always left the trim switch on, but don't recall this stiffness (and resulting jerk when it pops loose) before the last two or three flights. I was in approach mode on short final each time when I disconnected the AP and experienced this. So, the trim servo was definitely working a lot in the time leading up to disconnect, and the electric trim continued to work as normal down to landing. The elevator is stiff like the AP is still on, but after it pops loose, it is light again like in all other phases of flight when AP is not coupled. I've always left the electric trim switch on..
  6. Hey guys, I have a question for you stec elevator or trim servo owners. This isn't in the mooney, but in the baron I fly regularly. Recently, I've noticed when I disconnect the AP from the yoke button, the ailerons go limp like they should, but the elevator is still stiff. When I apply pull or push the yoke with a little more pressure, it seems to break free from the servo. Of course, from the extra pressure, it makes it feel like a sudden jerk on the elevator when the servo lets go. i'm not sure if this is an elevator or trim servo sticking... I think it is elevator servo because I haven't received any trim annunciations on the aspen like you would if the trim servo switch is turned off. Has anyone experienced this? any advice? thanks! Craig
  7. I would refer you to David gardener at Rendrag aviation based just south of ATL. Very well worth the flight down there. Quality work, on time, at the most competitive out the door price was my experience. He’s a good person and runs a clean operation.
  8. I would recommend the 650 interfaced with an aera660. Put the aera660 in vertical format next to dual G5’s all flush. It is da bomb. If you have complete electrical failure, all of your flight instruments and navigation stays on with independent batteries. The aera660 will also give you synthetic vision if interfaces with gdl39 3D or gtx345. It’s nice having an interfaced touch screen moving map with weather right there next to your pfd. You will save a lot of money and be bueno. As marauder said, if you have data in front of you, then the gps box is mainly for data entry.
  9. That lightning/thunder is in Knoxville now. 37degrees and climbing. It’s been a cold wet dog kinda day here
  10. I was thinking about smearing some silicone on my existing door seal, then smearing a thin film of vasoline on the cabin side, then closing for a day, then wipe off vasoline. Has anyone tried this? i was also toying with the idea that I could get a plastic paint scraper and cut little grooves in the edge... then use it to cleanly smear 4 small sharp beads of silicone to my existing seal and let dry with door open.
  11. I don’t doubt it. He called me two weeks ago after I left a couple messages. He hard sold me and told me he needed to buy some valve stems and complained that he needed money to buy stems and someone else didn’t pay him. He asked me to pay him and he will order stems and make one and ship to me... I said, sorry, I don’t finance other people’s business and to call me when he has something to sell. Never heard back from him after he promised he would get some new stems the following day. Your comment totally rings true to my intuition when speaking to the guy.
  12. Pitot heat would have been my suggestion as well.
  13. Depends on hide size. I used about 4 hides that were about 40sqft. One of the hides was perforated. But, I did all walls and headliner and wrapped plastic. I still have some for yokes and other things if I ever get around to it. I got away with doing a bonanza with two and a half 55sqft hides and a half hide perforated.
  14. I don't think my F could be replaced for less than $80k, but the market is probably niche'. That's why I have it insured for $85k. Many people who have their "forever F" like Maurader have pimped them out and wouldn't ever let it go for less than 100.. F's that generally come on the market seem to usually be largely legacy with rare exceptions. So, it seems to me that many people see the typical Fs that are listed for sale and they just look at the high and low asking prices and figure that's the range. The real upper range of a very nice F is pushing $100k and in some cases much more IMHO. People always say that F's top out at $75k, but it seems to me that nice, well equipped and modded high dollar Fs always sell way quicker (immediate), but they only come around once or twice per year and get snatched up. I'm talking modern glass, windshield, cowl, interior, paint, nice all around. There are many future buyers that see things like this, who might end up having to buy again after a total loss. If I lost mine to insurance, I wouldn't have any problem spending $80-100k on a top tier F, when that much money only gets you a tired J with mostly legacy stuff and less UL. just my 2cents..
  15. 20deg btdc timing will also make it a challenge to run warm enough in winter. Even in the summer