How hard is it to change door panel? Got mine in the mail

[MyNameIsNobody]

No, In the previous photo I could not see the other seal that is clearly visible in the most recent photo. Looks good.

[ryoder]

Finished the installation today and did it with a roll of industrial strength velcro.

Only three holes in the panel. Looks good.

Need a new leather pull handle.

[ryoder]

Finished the installation today and did it with a roll of industrial strength velcro.

Only three holes in the panel. Looks good.

Need a new leather pull handle.

[Hank]

Take the old leather strap to a saddle store or shoe repair shop. Or call the interior shop in San Antonio that everyone raves about (brain fart, can't think of the name). Or even a local upholstery shop. Tell 'em it's a carrying handle for a trunk.

[ryoder]

Order the panel from vantage. Wait for a coupon or something.

Get a Dremel and some files.

Remove panel by unscrewing handle, removing ash tray, removing door handle held in by safety wire, all screws.

Test fit new panel prior to cutting. Get an idea of where to trim. If you are like me, you'll have to trim a bit everywhere but especially on the top right. Use the file to smooth the edges after trimming. This takes time. Have to keep putting it back on the door and noting areas to trim. Even the interior edges need some trimming or they will push against the glass when the two big panel screw are torqued down.

You'll know where to cut the hole for the door handle because grease will get on the back of the panel in that spot. Start small with a drill bit and measure first to make sure you are in the right place. Then enlarge the hole in stages. I measured for the pull handle holes and was a bit off but it doesn't matter because the covers are so large.

Now install the door with the pull handle in place. You will have to compress the top of the panel to get it to clear some screws at the top right of the window. Once it's in place make note of areas to trim, such as the bottom by the door arm which scratches on the plastic until you cut a recess into it. Press in the panel and note and areas around the window that bow out. Youll need to trim those.

This is a long process but after a while you will have a panel that fits like a glove.

Now I put Velcro on the back of the panel and pressed it into place. I bought a roll of industrial strength and had some medium strength strips also. I did not put any Velcro at the bottom of the glass area where the panel screws in because it fit so snug and didn't need it there.

Once you get it installed safety wire the handle back in place. My trim cover won't fit now because the panel sticks out slightly more than the old one now. I'll need to work on thst door handle trim cover later.

Make sure you test closing the door. I had to remove some more plastic from the bottom for the arm thst swings through a range of motion.

I like how there are no screws and it probably was quicker using Velcro even though I took my time doing it.

[Hank]

Thanks for the derailed report! Just after I bought my plane in '07, I took out almost the whole interior for patches and paint while running new coax for the 430 WAAS upgrade. Did the door just so it would match. It needs doing again . . .

Any idea how to make the ceiling panels stick? They are squares of leather glued to the ceiling in large holes in the panel, they seem to stay stuck for 3-4 years then start sagging again.

[ryoder]

I don't understand the ceiling panels question. My ceiling is plastic and doesn't sag. Do you have leather covering yours?

[carusoam]

Ryan,

The door welting was supposed to be the warm up project...

What happened? It looks like less than half of the original welting is still struggling to stay in place...?

The door panel looks great!

Best regards,

-a-

[MyNameIsNobody]

NOT finished. You need a nice padded rest for the co-pilots arm to rest on. Come on do it up right. Match the pull with the padded arm rest already....

[MyNameIsNobody]

And update those yokes already...Loose wires for push to talk...Come on man get into the 21st century...

[MyNameIsNobody]

Just kidding. Door panel looks great. Well done. It is NEVER over....

[Hank]

I don't understand the ceiling panels question. My ceiling is plastic and doesn't sag. Do you have leather covering yours?

I'll take a picture when I get home. There are cutouts in my ceiling panels.

Found one from about 2 years ago. It's worse now. Look above the pax head.

[ryoder]

And update those yokes already...Loose wires for push to talk...Come on man get into the 21st century...

You are my inner voice. I keep asking myself why I haven't gotten all this crap done yet.

[ryoder]

Ryan,

The door welting was supposed to be the warm up project...

What happened? It looks like less than half of the original welting is still struggling to stay in place...?

The door panel looks great!

Best regards,

-a-

Thanks. Yeah I keep meaning to order that.

[ryoder]

I'll take a picture when I get home. There are cutouts in my ceiling panels.

Found one from about 2 years ago. It's worse now. Look above the pax head.

Oh I see. Mine is space age plastic

[MyNameIsNobody]

I'll take a picture when I get home. There are cutouts in my ceiling panels.

Found one from about 2 years ago. It's worse now. Look above the pax head.

Hank, I found nice replacement ceiling cloth at Airtex. I used old areas as patterns. Used spray adhesive to adhere headliner to aluminum. Came out great. Replaced the material inside baggage door and on top of pilot door at same time.

[MyNameIsNobody]

You are my inner voice. I keep asking myself why I haven't gotten all this crap done yet.

I hear that voice too.

Thankfully not hearing any other voices...

[Hank]

Hank, I found nice replacement ceiling cloth at Airtex. I used old areas as patterns. Used spray adhesive to adhere headliner to aluminum. Came out great. Replaced the material inside baggage door and on top of pilot door at same time.

I wish there was some way to mount it on a hoop framework behind the panel. No matter how well it's glued in, the aluminum expands and contracts differently than the headliner on every flight. 95 degrees on the ground, 54 at altitude ten minutes later, then soak for a couple or three hours and have a fifteen minute warm up back to 95. This eventually ends in sagging headliner.

Is there a permanent solution short of visiting Hector for a couple of weeks?

[Shadrach]

Hank,

I have the square/rectangle foam inserts covered in ultrasuede.  IIRC we used 3M High Strength 90 Spray Glue Adhesive.

Mine have been in place for over 5 years with no sagging. Is your plane hangared?

[Hank]

Hank,

I have the square/rectangle foam inserts covered in ultrasuede.  IIRC we used 3M High Strength 90 Spray Glue Adhesive.

Mine have been in place for over 5 years with no sagging. Is your plane hangared?

Yes, it's hangared. But there are no foam inserts. The headliner pieces are glued directly to the aluminum skin.

More information on your foam parts, please!

[ryoder]

Can you make panels out of sign material high density foam and your fabric of choice and then glue that to the ceiling? This might isolate it.

[ryoder]

I just ordered a set of Airtex leather seats and foam in tan. Also got the panels and wind lace. Seats will take six to eight weeks and I might see panels in two to three weeks.

I pulled a seat and took it to the upholstery shop for a discussion. We torched some vinyl and I saw a flame start and then extinguish immediately when the heat was removed. However with leather there was no flame, just a shrinking. Also the vinyl stunk up the place but not the leather. That sold me on leather and they couldn't touch Airtex's price.

The plan is to let them install the covers for me to ensure a professional fit. I'll bolt the panels and seats in and fly in style and comfort.

Here are my current seats. They have no support and are dated.

[carusoam]

Try not to breath the byproducts of burning things like vinyl (PVC)... Hydrochloride acid is one those things...

They're just not good for you.

-a-

[ryoder]

Now I am booked on plastic. Vantage extended their Sun N Fun deal so I bought two more pieces. This piece took me about four hours to install going slow.

I used only one visible screw and some velcro. The top of the panel is screwed in but covered by the window trim.

[Bob_Belville]

Re headliners, I would ask the trim shop you are talking to about the seats. Auto trim shops do car headliners. Auto headliners typically stay glued for years even though the car sits in the sun and the span is far greater than our Mooney segments. Eventually the heat breaks down the foam, not the glue, and the fabric releases from the roof.

 

We used auto headliner material, "rigid" foam, and contact adhesive. The plane is usually hangered, I expect the headliner to last about 50 more years.