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Posted

I need to remove the fuel selector plastic thing but the drain ring needs to come off. How is that done?

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I think it is just a ring with a split in it. I think putting a large needle nose in the ring and opening the pliers will spread the ring open..

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Posted

Thanks guys. Its in. Looks nice. Almost done. I have an extra large piece of carpet I don't know what to do with. Ill take a pic tomorrow. Its wavy on the top and flat on the bottom. No edging on it.

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I want to replace the crappy material around the center console beh8nd the Johnson bar but not sure how to.

  • Like 1
Posted

Is the large left over piece for the baggage compartment? On the Comanche the nose wheel cover is pre formed, and has to be rolled on starting with the carpet turned inside out.

Clarence

Posted

The baggage compartment is flat and square. It's in place. I had to cut four slits in it and a hole for some kind of tube that I suppose is for ventilation.

Posted

Ryan,

Four tie downs and the CO vent...(?)

Do you mean the area where front wheel goes when it is up?

There are two different solutions for that...

The carpet people supply a nice fitted piece that matches what you just put in...

The plastics people supply formed pieces that look slightly more modern...

Installing the carpet requires disconnecting the flight controls that are visible near the J bar. The flap indicator also gets re-mounted there...

I went with the carpet solution in my first annual, then followed with side wall carpets...

best regards,

-a-

Posted

The boomerang looking piece should go around the center console (actually, nose gear well). The longer, edged piece goes on top of the center console. One of the two 'T' pieces goes between the seat rails just forward of the back seat.

Where did you get the carpeting? I will be replacing mine next year.

Posted

Sewing? I haven't seen anything since home ec in 7th grade.

Do you mean to sew Velcro onto the pieces so they can mate together? If so I'll start by using Velcro tape and if it works I'll pay someone to see it into permanent place.

Posted

I also bought an Airtex kit and have started installing in my E model. I got the floor carpet in ok but was wondering about the other pieces. The one for the luggage section appears too large but I need to take a better look tomorrow. I figured that boomeranged must have been intended for the front wheel well but seems a little odd that none of the edges are bound. I assume it is supposed to go behind the Johnson bar and between the console and then wrap to both sides starting at the floor and go up?? That piece with the rounded end still has me confused as to where it is intended to go?

Posted

I put the baggage carpet in in about 45 minutes. I pulled out the large vertical panel at the back and had to trim one corner to match the existing carpet. I am also unsure about the console carpet. Now I have a plane plastics door to install as well so I have my work cut out for me.

Posted

The unbound boomerang piece has all of its edges hidden by other pieces of carpeting. The partially bound piece with the rounded front edge goes on top of the nose gear hump with the bound edge toward the cabin.

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted

Nope not yet.

I still don't have the carpet around the landing gear replaced either. I think I'll have an upholstery shop help with it.

Posted

I think Airtex includes it as a conversational piece. I have all new plastic to go around the front wheel well, not sure which will be easier the carpet or the plastic.

Posted

Two things come to mind...

My C had the extra part as well...

1) It was used to keep birds out of the tail for years... The ears kept it in place, the flexibility kept it from jamming in the event of it being left in place. Not recommended without the 'remove before flight' tag being added...

2) there are two techniques to opening that split ring, one makes it impossible to close again. Spreading open vs. twisting the ring. Think in 3D, Try not to spread it open... (Non mechanic type of advice)

Best regards,

-a-

Posted

Split rings are best opened with two pair of pliers. Hold the ring so that it lays flat on the jaws of each, with the split in between. The pliers should be as close together as possible. Gently twist your hands in opposite directions, and create an opening just large enough. When it is disconnected & reconnected, do this again.

If you F it up and the ring spreads open (no longer round, with an unfortunate gap between the ends), repeat the procedure but push the plier tips towards each other while opening and closing.

This is easy to do but hard to describe. I learned it working in a jewelry store in college. Visit one, they may be able to demonstrate for you.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

"At some point you will need to measure for holes in the piece that goes on top ... You could cut slices, from one side to make those holes so you can slip the piece on around those rods. Once you get the length of the slice cut to where the rods come through you can cut you hole the size of the openings. Mine added some baby boots to tie around those ... Looks like tne Johnson bar boot ... if I remember right there are two holes? One for a rod that goes to flaps and one for a couple other Rods..."


For measuring holes try this...

Put a dab of toothpaste over the hole you are trying to mark.  Press the material against the hole.  Remove the material and Presto! perfectly located holes WITHOUT measuring!

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