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I finally figured out how to disassemble this actuator and separate the motor. I took it to a shop in Knoxville to check brushes and test. But if the winding is bad, I have another shop in Florida that will rewind the Dukes flap motor and actuator motor. msg me if you want their info

Electric step worked for me… no vacuum system on mine with avionics upgrade… http://flightenhancements.com/index.html @takair sells them… -Don

Asked and answered in 8 minutes. Take that, Beechtalk.

I shared the SAIB with the owner. The FAA FSDO did visit the aircraft onsite with Cirrus, so they are aware. If you note carefully in the SAIB, the notice was for FSDOs to report what they had learned too.

Tie some barbells to the engine mounts. If that's been removed also, bolt some lumber to the mount holes with correct-sized bolts, and hang weights there. Sandbags should work, too, just tie them on well. You'll need to approximate the weight of the engine, more if the engine mount is off.

https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/file/2021-12/21LYC-LycomingLoyaltyMatrix-TBO_Brochure.pdf https://www.lycoming.com/sites/default/files/attachments/Lycoming%20Engines%20Exchange%20Engine%20Core%20Policy.pdf

It would be more productive if everybody would share their concerns with the FAA.

Well, it is now done in the US as well. we got the flight stream working on my acclaim. Brian Kendrick has the only install in the US under his belt. I can’t wait to have this feature enabled in my g1000. It was the only thing I really missed from the NXI. This is great news!

This is correct, or at least it was in 2021 when I got a rebuilt IO360 from Lycoming. On my engine, case was cracked and couldn't be repaired. Also previous OH, done by well known shop in CA, screwed up and mixed the narrow deck camshaft and accessory case on my Wide deck engine. This and few other things was found out after the shop I intended to use (forgot the name: in Kamloops, BC) took the engine apart for OH. Basically, they told me Factory rebuilt would be a better deal (Lyc OH was not an option). They placed the call to factory sales rep and so factory accepted the engine in pieces, even I've heard often that can't be done. It can! It sure helped they were decent size shop and dealer of the engines and had a great relation with factory.

Here's the Service Bulletin: https://mooney.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/SBM20-322.pdf BAS and the other salvage places know that these are very valuable. You'll probably have to bite the bullet and just order a new one. As it mentions, the airplane is grounded until the stall strip is replaced

Same Cirrus that I reported on previously. It went to a Cirrus service center near Juan for inspection and repairs

Strangely, the parts are pretty easily available and not that pricey!

Yes, 27, but it's essentially just two spherical rod ends connected together. Those are generally standard parts, so if you can figure out what each part is you can just replaced the rod ends. Sometimes those have the part number on them, or you can take the dimensions and figure out what it is. McMaster-Carr is a good place to start when looking for those: https://www.mcmaster.com/rod-ends

Installation went smoothly today. Both the starter and Voltage regulator working perfectly. Nice upgrades. Three hours labor for work. Job done.

get part # from IPC and google part #, they are quite pricy new, think in the range of $2-$3k, make sure to mount at the exact spot, residual glue is good indicator, use CS3204 tank sealant to attach new one, clean panel thoroughly with appropriate solvent, alcohol works well, you also need some triangular filler foam to distribute fluid in stall strip, CAV aerospace has that foam

You might check with Beegles/BAS in CO... they have parted out one or more long bodies with TKS in the past and might have them. Make sure to be sitting down if you find one and get the price.

Poplar Grove, IL is a well known shop. They do many engines. I have not had engine work done by them, but I've known of themfor over 25 years. They seem to be solid, and their work balancing my prop was very good.

Just make sure you stay far away from the boot heel of Missouri. Do not under any circumstance find an old thread on here and consider Jewell Aviation Kennett, MO unless you want to walk away with a high probability of parts falling off, or blowing off, your engine. My safety contribution for the day. Sorry I don’t have any positive recs in the area but others will. I will say, call several shops to compare prices and time. It seems the turnaround time can vary widely.

I guess the original settlers were either directionally challenged, or too completely stonkered by the wagon ride through the mountains to pay attention anymore. The roads must still be not very good, Google maps says it takes 4-1/2 hours to drive the 238 miles from one to the other. But North Bend does explain the body of water at the end of the runway. A saltwater bath will surely total even a Honda jet.

CORRECTION ABOUT EXECUTIVE AUTOPILOTS - THEY AREE BACK IN BUSINESS. I RECEIVED A CALL BACK LATE THIS AFTERNOON THAT THE SHOP IS OPEN.

You can disconnect the control cable at the governor and see whether it is the governor or the cable that is having an issue. FWIW, in my case the cable and control feel were fine. It wasn't evident that the governor had an issue until it failed runup. Control feel was always normal.

Air Power lists a brand new TSIO-550-G at $117k with a core exchange. Is the crazy overhaul price just because these things are unobtanium? https://www.airpowerinc.com/tsi0550g5bn

Some recently manufactured Boeing and Airbus jets have components made from titanium that was sold using fake documentation verifying the material’s authenticity, according to a supplier for the plane makers, raising concerns about the structural integrity of those airliners. The falsified documents are being investigated by Spirit AeroSystems, which supplies fuselages for Boeing and wings for Airbus, as well as the Federal Aviation Administration. The investigation comes after a parts supplier found small holes in the material from corrosion. In a statement, the F.A.A. said it was investigating the scope of the problem and trying to determine the short- and long-term safety implications to planes that were made using the parts. It is unclear how many planes have parts made with the questionable material.

On CFP news site, they link the archived article so you can read them without paying.

In the US I've only lost GPS for brief few moments on multiple occasions in different trainers - never my aircraft. Took a long time to figure out but it stemmed from a interference from the radio on the SEE tower frequency where apparently a harmonic from a separate radio on the 120.7 ctaf freq was killing the GPS signal and the unit would have to re-acquire them - all taking time and this happening crossing the FAF added additional challenges. (using the GPS radio was never a problem and the solution for those installations with this issue). But flying out of the US I have been jammed several times since those jammers are very cheap and easy to get a hold of. Those losses last for many minutes depending on altitude till you get far enough away. Not a big deal when VMC but a real pain in IMC. In all of these occasions it wouldn't matter how many GPS's you had, but in the latter jamming scenario I tried a portable as well without success.

I have called FSS in the air a few times over the past few years. Mainly to submit a PIREP. I have called them on the ground (by phone) more times for various reasons.

I didn’t change my senders. The gauges seem to be within about a gallon of actual. Lee

I did the same thing when I needed one. Not difficult. Lee

Was overhearing a conversation at the airport between two boat owners. One was saying that the last bill he got for work on his boat was $135,000. WOW. You can buy a nice Mooney for that

N1084U Well, that time has come. It's time to sell the airplane I assumed would be my "forever plane". I will list soon on Controller but I thought I would post here first. I've flown this aircraft consistently 100-150 hrs per year since my purchase in 2018. The recently re-padded and covered seats are by far the most breathable and comfortable seats you will find in any Mooney. This aircraft has been maintained with an open checkbook and maintenance quality is impeccable. General Serial Number 27-0201 Registration # N1084U Useful Load 870 lbs. Airframe Total Time 3155 TKS (FIKI), Newly recovered seats with three densities of memory foam in front seat bottoms - (breathable fabric, NOT LEATHER). 3" rudder pedal extensions on the copilot side.. Oxygen cylinder replaced 04/2025. Landing gear shock discs replaced 9/2020@2731 hrs. Prop governor OH 2/2019@2503 hrs. No back spring replaced 04/2025. New #1 battery. Monroy Long Range Tanks resealed 08/2006 by Wet Wing-ologists. LED landing, nav, position and strobe lights. Repainted 2014 by TEJAS - currently rated 8 out of 10 Engine Engine 1 Time 1730 SMOH. Prop OH time also 1730 hrs. Compressions |1. 78 | 2. 78 | 3. 77 | 4. 79 | 5. 79 | 6. 76 | Surefly Mag (left only), GAMI injectors. TANIS heater. Replaced all cylinders less than 600 hrs ago (progressive, on condition). Exhaust OH 09/18@2450 hrs,Starter replaced 09/19@2503 hrs, Engine driven fuel pump OH 06/19@2553 hrs, RH alternator replaced 03/21@2773 hrs, RH Mag OH 4/22@2905 hrs, Turbo overhauled 4/22@ 2905hrs, Blackstone Oil analyses all nominal. This engine has been run ROP since the change of the cylinders. It may go well past TBO if the new owner wishes. If the new owner would prefer to have a new engine, I have a spare. That engine is 550 TSFRM! It suffered a prop strike. I have since had all the components inspected and "yellow tagged" by Western Skyways and it is ready for reassembly and installation. Contact me for more details. Avionics Avionics/Radios GI-275 ADI. GI-275 HSI. GI-275 Engine Monitor. GFC-500 autopilot with yaw damper. GDL-88 ADS-B in/out. FS-200. GTN-750. KX-155. GMA-35 remote audio panel. GTX-330ES transponder. Aspen 1000 ProMax (Co-pilot side). Dual Bose LEMO sockets. Garmin USB ports. MicroKit LIDAR Landing Height System with gear warning. Inspection Status Inspection Status Annual: 04/2025. Pitot/static/transponder check: 04/2025. Asking Price: $274,000, (willing to consider trade for J or K model or for a project plane)

Actually I've known people that have gone down the street to the Custom Auto Body Shop and had their interiors done...Most auto fabrics meet the burn criteria and if not, they can order it...They took the seats, headliner, carpets and panels, etc. to the shop, a couple of the upholstery guys were curious about the aircraft so they went out to the aircraft to see it and make suggestions...it's an option and usually a bit cheaper..just a thought

My primary considerations in choosing to top a 1700 hour engine vs O/H: Treat the symptom. High oil consumption and oil that would get dirty on the first run-up (it seemed.) The CMI crankcase test scored very badly, cross-hatch was very worn, so the cylinders needed to be replaced. The rest of the engine is fine, with 0 corrosion and no metal ever in the filter, so why throw out a working reliable engine? Recent Major Components repaired or replaced. 2 Turbo’s, mags, harnesses, fuel pump all replaced within the last 100 hours. Invasive MX / Infant Mortality. Less stuff is disturbed, so less opportunity for things to be done wrong/poorly. CAPEX /Time value of money. Just to make the math easy, let’s assume optimistically that the O/H costs $100,000 more than the top. At an 8% cost of funds, that o/h costs $8000 per year more. The hours on the “new” cost another $10,000 in blue book @150 hours per year. Downtime. I need the plane to run my business. Germ tube is massively inconvenient to the point of pointlessness. Top, even though it didn’t go great, is significantly less downtime. Unless someone beats me with a money stick, I plan on keeping this plane for a while. So at the rate I’m flying, if I can get another 5 years/750 hours out of the engine, then I’m nearly $100,000 ahead on a cash flow basis. There are, of course, no guarantees, save for the skinny warranty that the overhauler offers. As @aviatoreb is discovering, these engines are astonishingly expensive (Victor super-dooper overhaul quote $130,00++), so anything that can economically extend the life of the engine in place seems prudent to me. The financial figuring, done with an appropriately dull pencil, is just rationalization. For me, it was higher confidence in the engine and less downtime that drove the decision. YMMV. -dan

Jim- @Jim Peace- I wholeheartedly recommend the tubes below. Made from the same rubber as the Airstop tubes, but with the angled stem for the old wheel style like ours. Good quality, and I only put air in twice a year. Once at annual, and one at the first cold snap in November. https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/aero_06-03303.php

Analysis will tell you the alloy. Lycoming can tell you what parts use that alloy. My mechanic likes to put the element in a big jar and fill it with solvent and shake it vigorously and then strain the solvent through a coffee filter.

WOW !! Thanks for the recap. Considering that our engines are antique technology these prices are just insane. So my engine has 500 HSMO and $60K added into the panel in the past 5 years and an airworthy air-frame wrapped around it... why are planes like mine selling for a $100K at best?? I think we are all nuts. Nothing like enjoying a hobby that costs about $10K a year even if you only fly one hour, and can get you killed if you don't do everything just right. Just sayin... I think we are all nuts.

I know this is an old post, but I ran across it looking for hints on governor removal. This may help someone else. The governor removal turned out to be fairly easy. 1) Remove oil filter. 2) Remove governor cable linkage bolt. 3) Cut safety wire and remove the 3 drilled fillister head screws which attach the cable support bracket to the governor. 4) Remove the 4 governor nuts that hold it to the mounting pad, A short offset box end wrench works well for this. This information is specific to the M20J with a Lycoming IO360A3B6D

Help! I had a prop strike and the engine needs to be removed. I need to move the plane back outside after a A&P pulls the engine. Anybody have experience with doing this? What counter weights can I put on, how to attach? Thank You in advance!!

Wellp, so this happened lol Hoping to have the new tires put on in the next coupl’a days.