Leaderboard

I saw a picture of Wrong Way Corrigan's cockpit one time and he had his iPhone next to his compass. And don't tell me it was Photoshopped, because they didn't have Photoshop back then.

Just got my mooney back out of annual and the flight home noticed the sun snd the moon peeking over the cloud deck at 2,500ft

Anybody in for a Sunday flyover in support of Texas governor Abbott?

At one time long ago the topic was insurance quotes, I just received mine and I’m breathing better, I was renewed with no increase, every year now I’ll hold my breath hoping to stay insured. My only stipulation is an annual IPC.

I noticed we have not started this? First flight of the year 2024 was in a friend J3 (Mooney was out for maintenance), the goal was to regain passenger currency after 90 days break, I was even tempted by asking for 6xIFR approaches on my handheld ILS, I settled for one big hole to VFR myself back into the grass runway First flight in Mooney at night after work, the full moon was over the tower (who does not prefer full moon night flights)

First flight of the year 2024 was in a friend J3 (Mooney was out for maintenance), the goal was to regain passenger currency after 90 days break, I was even tempted by asking for 6xIFR approaches on my handheld ILS, I settled for one big hole to VFR myself back into the grass runway First flight in Mooney at night after work, the full moon was over the tower (who does not prefer full moon night flights)

https://curtisvalves.com/ They are made at my home drome. BTW, I had a leaking sump drain that would not stop leaking. I removed the top cover from the tank, drilled out the nut plate that the drain valve goes into, cleaned all the metal around it and riveted it back in with sealant covered rivets. Leak gone. Redoing the drain valve took about 15 minutes. Redoing the cover plate took over an hour.

My SI medical, sleep apnea, took over 10 months. I wouldn’t want to be paying fixed expenses for that long without knowing end result.

Also, I don’t fly a cirrus but use it in this example to reassure myself how much more awesome the Acclaim is in every way.

On my '78 J, I bought a leather belt the right width and just cut it to length and put holes in it for the bolts. It worked great and was stronger than the original. Check women's belts -- they come in a greater variety of sizes and colors.

They’re pretty tight lipped over there at the ARC. They ain’t gonna give you no tips on how to fly faster, but maybe somebody will tell you how they put helium inside the structural fuselage tubes to lose a couple pounds of weight and move the CG back. personally, it’s easier just to let 20 pounds of air out of each tire that’s 40 pounds right there

I recommend getting the plane whenever you want. They are airplanes, not marshmallow peeps. They won't melt in the rain or the heat. Sure, it's less good to leave them out, but you still have a plane you can fly, even if it sits outside.

I guess it’s been too cold for someone to start the yearly picture thread? I flew today just to get the airplane moving again after a week of really cold temps. Yes, it’s-15C at start, but the engine and cabin were both preheated all night and were above 50f! Interestingly, it was -21C at 2500’agl, but only-14C at 10,000’!

Nice video, that has some MSer's planes in it? Never seen a video from this channel before, but it was nice to see something dedicated to our birds https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLCV-GR773Q

I had one of each for a while and the SAF-AIR is way stiffer than the old ones. Now I have two SAF-AIRs and just make sure I've had breakfast before taking fuel samples.

July 14, 2006.

That moon is awesome! And yes, the best time for night flying!

He beats me to it, there is always number1 for the approach

Here is the sad reality, there have been more than a few captains that i see that turn on the autopilot as soon as the gear is up and disconnect the autopilot below a 1000 ft agl to land. Getting at most less than a minute of hand flying time and that is with auto-thrust which is going to keep you from getting too slow. With a 6-month sim check. They are current but not proficient IMO. Now to take that same rusted skillset into a small light GA aircraft where a loss of thrust results in a rapid slow down compared to the inertia of a big jet can happen faster than the rust can be removed from the skillset let alone the reaction time needed to identify what the correct action should be at that moment can be over whelming. Add to that the low altitude time compression of losing those few ft available can be lethal.

So, people have dreams. And some of them come true. But you don't tell someone who want to sail around the world to buy a 14' Jon boat with a 10 HP engine. And you don't tell someone that wants to fly for family travel to but a Light Sport.

Actually @Ragsf15e did start one. We should combine them, if possible, so there is only one. This is my favourite thread. I love to see what everyone is up to...

I replaced the gasket on the gascolator (seal kit from lasar) last year. It wasn’t hard, but the torque is really low (14 in lbs maybe?) or you can hurt the irreplaceable gascolator. We did it, turned on the fuel while my IA was under watching for leaks. I heard him yell and saw a 250lb, 6’4” man roll out from under surprisingly quickly. It was pouring out fuel. I turned it back off. We took the collator back apart and everything looked good. We actually disconnected the in/out fuel lines from the collator so we could hold the bottom half perfectly level to the upper half while slowly tightening, then reconnected the lines. The gasket is real sensitive to proper seating. No leaks.

Magnetic field strength decreases cubically with distance, so interference with the compass is largely a function of distance. Our compass is conventionally mounted on the center windshield post. We have two highly magnetic Steelie Ball mounts sticky-taped to the yokes, which are about 24" away from the compass, and there is no discernible effect on the compass. There is a noticeable effect on the compass if I set my phone with its magsafe case anywhere on the glareshield, though, which is a small part of the reason I prefer a yoke or kneeboard mount down low to a suction cup mount up high.

I have a tether like this one on a MagSafe car mount. It would depend on how the OP is planning to mount the MagSafe puck as to whether or not it would work. https://www.amazon.com/GeGeMu-Handlebar-Prevention-Motorcycle-Universal/dp/B08LC66Z3W/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=5WKAWHXDG24J&keywords=phone%2Brubber%2Bstrap&qid=1706368221&sprefix=phone%2Brubber%2B%2Caps%2C107&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1 Cheers, Junkman

I have one of these, but it doesn’t go anywhere near the compass. https://www.sportys.com/flight-gear-backup-battery-10-000mah.htm My iPhone by itself will cause the compass to swing wildly. If I put my iPad near it, it threatens to spin off the mount

I say get the medical worked out first. Other than that, I had 20 hours in my logbook when I bought my C and finished my private training in it, including the check ride. I'm about 270 hours in the Mooney now and it's been a great plane to learn in. If that's what you want, and you can afford it, then get it. One thing that pops out to me is your mention of a $40k budget... You can either buy a plane to work on or a plane to fly, at $40k, you're buying a project. That's maybe fine if you want something to do while you're waiting on your medical to get worked out and you have a willing AP/IA to help you along the way but, if that's not the case I think you need to plan on spending at least 50% more than that to get a plane that's not going to need expensive maintenance almost immediately. Cheap planes are almost never inexpensive.

I have owned my plane for 24 years. I have never had it hangared. It has lived in Mississippi, Georgia, suburban DC, Connecticut, and California, with a cover on it when it's not flying. In 24 years, there are perhaps 15 days where a hangar would have saved me considerable time preheating the engine or defrosting the plane. It also maybe would have prevented birds from making a next in the rear fuselage, which they did once, and deer from chewing off a couple of static wicks. The difference between hangar rental fees and tiedown rental fees is significant ($350/month) at my airport. I'd rather fill my gas tanks to the brim once a month with the money I'm saving. One of the magazines ran an analysis many years ago about the value of a hangar vs. the value of the difference in annual rental fees. Tiedowns won. Back in the days when I owned a car (15 years ago), I parked it outside, too, not in a garage. The car, like the plane, did not rust into oblivion. Don't get me wrong. If you've got a hangar, good for you. Some of my best friends have hangars. But don't be scared to park your plane outside.

Wow, had not heard of them and they have great prices, thanks!

I appreciate the input and help. I’m eyeballing M20Cs mostly. Looking to travel reasonable distances at a reasonable pace. A hangar home sounds great. Sign me up! I wish but it’s a little early for that for me. I will no doubt keep my eyes open and the balls rolling forward.

"Historic profitability" is not the same as "historical levels of profitability." But, I'm guessing you knew that.

Next to me is an old V-tail Bonanza. The owner's 2 adult sons decided to get their PP in it because why not. After a year or two they figured out the why not and switched to the local school's trainers to finish up. They probably spent more on fuel and instruction in their own Bonanza than the trainer and instruction would have cost start-to-finish.

Do you have one at home or in the car? Before buying another one, just plug it in and watch the compass. Certainly you would not want to rest it up n the dash near the compass. And my other question would be, how strong is the magnet? I'd be more worried the phone would launch into the air and land who knows where. There was an Army (?) helicopter that crashed a while ago because the iPad fell down into the peddle mechanism.

Hi Everyone, thank you all for the golden advice. It turns out that my problem finding the quick drain was kind of quirky, and something that no one here or anywhere else had mentioned. The quick drain on my plane has a more-or-less permanent hose attached to it. In fact, the drain end is attached to the bottom area where there is a nice little cutaway for the oil to drain. So it's just 1) remove pilot cowl, 2) put a bucket under the drain, 3) push down on the quick drain. That's it, nothing to attach/detach. My issue was that I did not know this was a possibility, and therefore I was looking for a drain that looked like all the ones I've seen in pictures, with an exposed nipple that would accept a 3/8'' tube and perhaps anodized nice and shiny blue. Obviously, no such thing was to be found. Once I realized that "hey this thing with a hose already attached suspiciously looks like a quick drain" everything fell into place. Of course I knew I was being ignorant all along, I just didn't know how I was being ignorant this time (it changes often, apparently). After that the oil/filter change went smoothly (aside from having ordered the wrong gender oil filter and having to re-order).

I've found it to be nearly impossible to remove the filter cleanly when the engine and oil is hot. We've tried a couple different things like the half PVC pipe, and those flexible rubber drain deflectors. They definitely make it better, but be darned I just can't seem to get it without a little bit of oil getting by that I have to clean up after. If you have time, my best advice is to drop the oil and let it drain overnight or at least a few hours. As long as it takes for the oil to cool and hopefully drain a little bit out of the filter and back into the engine... and then change the filter when it's cold. Doesn't seem to make nearly as much mess. Then the next day, or the next time I fly I'll change the filter, add oil, do my run up, inspect, and then go flying.

Honestly, i'd go with an autozone special if the FAA wasn't involved. Not enough fairy dust in magic aviation batteries

After my engine had an extensive IRAN I had engine installed and dual magneto overhauled and put back on the engine. When the dual magneto was set it was set to a different engine so it was not firing correctly for my IO360. It was hard to start and missed and I knew something was not right. Changing the setting corrected the timing problem.

I’ve read it and while I used to doubt it, reading threads like this one had me wondering, like the one where the A&P wanted to lean the carb out for missing. It makes me sort of realize that anything’s possible. The C-85 has two rubber cups that seal with spring rings to the case and to the push rod tubes. The push rod tubes are swaged into the heads, you can’t remove the tubes, only can remove the cylinders to replace these rubber cups. Being rubber when they get old they leak, and yes it was a bad leak, been leaking for years but over time got pretty bad as leaks don’t get better. There is an STC to install “improved” push rod tubes from the big later model engines that can be removed without pulling the cylinders but it’s of course hundreds of $$$ and it’s not worth it to me. Interestingly on the older C as in C-65,75, 85 90 Continental engines there are no thru studs that go to the cylinders, they screw into the opposite case but do not go all the way through. The O-200 does I believe have thru studs as does new C-85 cases. I think thru studs are easier to manufacture, but probably stronger too as the C engines will sometimes pull a chunk out of the case from those studs most likely associated with a prop strike. But if you think about it removal of the jugs can’t be what causes bottom end problems, it had to be improper torque, as in not torqueing both sides of thru studs, most likely because it’s often a lot more work as usually baffling has to be removed to torque the opposite side. The cure in my opinion is proper procedures, just like Mags falling off and who knows how many other things. Maintenance induced failures are real, but it’s not from maintenance, it’s from improper procedures. Cylinders are R&R’d on piston aircraft it seems almost as often as brakes are re-lined or tires changed, Lord knows how many per year are done, yet the failures are rare. I’m the guy who doesn’t like patches, I fully understand a temp repair to get home though. To use an Auto example because I think most understand that, but if I blow a radiator hose, I don’t replace it and drive on, because I bet I’ll be replacing the other hose or the thermostat or the heater hoses soon and breaking down several times is often why people talk themselves into believing they need a new car, when all they needed was proper maintenance. I replace all of that but stop short of the water pump and flush the radiator too. I’m a huge believer in Preventative Maintenance, but many are being sold on don’t touch it until it breaks maintenance. I think you can run that way for awhile, but what you’re doing is setting yourself up for a never ending string of unscheduled maintenance. Because as the man said in one of the better commercials. “Pay me now or pay me later”. So it’s my opinion that by removing and inspecting a Jug that that has a sticking valve and correcting any deficiencies that cylinder has means it’s going to be a long time before I have anymore problems with it. Its my understanding that the better engine shops regularly take brand new, zero time cylinders and send them off for a proper three angle valve job and the guides precision honed, not reamed because you can’t get the fine finish and straight walls etc with a reamer, especially by hand reaming. In fact I believe that loose clearances is very often why they stick, the loose clearances allow the oil to coke into carbon, that reduces the clearances to zero and they stick, just like a ring can, usually rings stick in worn cylinders not tight ones. One day I’m going to the machine shop that does this guide honing because I’ve not seen that. I hadn’t even heard of it before speaking to Carlos Gann

One bit of advice not mentioned; stay on Mooneyspace and read a lot. Find a Mooney owner near you; get to know him/her and hang out. Most of us are happy to share information.

Well, for more interesting facts: 1) Concorde $500, EarthX $700 2) Concorde 440 CCA, EarthX 390 CCA 3) Concorde 33 Amp-Hour, EarthX 15.6 Amp-Hour 4) Concorde Ipp=800 A at -18C, EarthX Ipp=390 A at -18C To summarize, you get less cranking amps, less than half the peak-power current at cold temps, half the capacity (amp-hours) all for only $200 more! But, yeah, your wife can carry 20 lbs more luggage, or 3 gallons more gas. What's not to like?

Update on the topic. AGL agreed to come down to Monroe on Saturday and take a look at the oil leaks. Really appreciate John's willingness to work with me on it. There are no A&Ps that work on field at KEQY. No idea how that can work for an airport of this size, but it's the reality we are in. Talking to Savvy, they believe the cylinder seepage is normal and not to worry about it. They were focused on the oil pressure transducer leak and loose oil return line leak.

FWIW, I started leaning on the ground and keeping ground idle speed up after getting those hints from Don Maxwell. It does seem to help, although the biggest step to eliminating lead fouling for me was putting fine wires in the bottom plug locations. There seems to be a lot of operational experience that it makes a difference. Some local IO-540 operators do aggressive ground leaning for the same reason, that it appears to reduce the incidence of plug fouling during ground ops.

The CGR-30P Basic always includes RPM, EGT, CHT, fuel flow, OAT, volts and a few timers. As such, manifiold pressure would not be included. However, the UBG-16 can be traded in on a CGR-30P Premium at a discounted price of $2798.00. The Premium version always included RPM, EGT and CHT. At the time of order, up to five additional primary functions can be selected, as well as five non-primary functions. Primary functions are defined as those that are required by the manufacturer and include limits/redlines. A couple exceptions to this rule are a follow: 1. Manifold pressure is always primary on a naturally aspirated engine with a constant speed prop. 2. Each fuel tank occupies one primary screen location.

I have a finger pulse oximeter hanging on my prop knob that I check my oxygen saturation every 15-20 min while up in the levels. It gives me something to do when I'm bored and keeps me safe.

Hey all! This is one of my favorite discussions… Stay focussed… 1) Focus on determining which M20 is right for me… A, or V, or something in between…. 2) Focus on finishing the PPL… then focus on the next steps… IR, seaplane, glider rating, tail wheel endorsement…. 3) Focus on finding a place to keep her… even if it is a tie down in NJ… 4) My M20C lived outdoors her entire life… she looked worn before I got her. A good cover, and a good cleaning and wax are helpful… 5) My M20R lived outdoors for a year… a near perfect paint job, doesn’t stay that way living outdoors…. 6) If you have aviation experience… family members count. You can probably determine the best plane for you… 7) If you have no aviation experience, and an M20V sounds about right…. There is a lot of work to get done… 8) Some people fly a trainer for the first hundred or so hours… 9) Others buy a Mooney and train in it… too much focus required. 10) Often finding the right Mooney can take a year…. So stay focussed! 11) Renting a plane has its benefits… until you own one. 12) Tying down outside has its benefits… until you have a hangar. 13) Keeping your plane in hangar is pretty cool… until you own your own hangar. 14) Owning your own hangar has its benefits… until you have your own hangar home…. Soooo…. With all that out in the open… Natural Mooney pilots are good at multi-tasking and staying focussed on everything all the time… Keep moving all the balls forwards… keep asking questions… find a mentor. When buying a plane… know what a PPI is… decide how to use one, who is going to do it, how much you want to spend… there are plenty of discussions around here for all of that… Enjoy the hunt! Go Mooney! PP thoughts only, not a plane sales guy…. Best regards, -a-

What do the numbers at the bottom (EGT on the left, CHT on the right) of the display indicate when the bars are indicating erratically? It may be probe, connection or wiring related. If you can take a video of the display in flight and send it to me at support@iflyei.com, I will be happy to take a look at it an offer an opinion. Regarding an upgrade path, we are currently offering a $1500 trade-in rebate for those with UBG-16s currently, that wish to upgrade to our CGR-30P. For example, if one were to upgrade to our CGR-30P Basic, utilizing the currently installed EGT/CHT probes and cables, the all in cost for the upgrade would be $1998.00. Unfortunately, the UBG-16's plasma displays have become obsolete. As such, we are no longer able to manufacture new or support old units. Hence the reason for our current rebate offer.

Most Mooneys, most GA airplanes, actually, use a bolt to keep the door closed. If you unlatch the door, open it a little bit, and then latch it again, the bolt will come out and prevent the door from closing. This is part of my pre-start passenger briefing, to show a new passenger how to do this.

My 15 year old grand-daughter cannot wait to drive. She already saved up money and bought a car she cannot drive yet.

For gaps, try those foam pipe insulation tubes. Because they're hollow, they've got lots of compressibility...and they're cheap.

LOL, I fear you’ve missed my point but that’s ok, and thank you for reminding me why I don’t do any social media. For what it’s worth, I’ve only owned Mooney’s with g1000’s, and so is my new sled, with FIKI! My Christmas present to myself! Enjoy whatever it is you fly, and safe travels! All of us here are all fortunate to be able to fly anything at all.. Merry Christmas!!