Oil/Filter Change Newbie Questions

[AndreiC]

For a dump-and-fill process (25 hour oil change without filter change) what do people think of using a suction pump to remove the oil through the dipstick tube? I’ve been happily using one of these suction pumps quite happily for my cars, and it seems to remove all but a tiny bit of oil in 15 mins or less. 
 

This would make removing the cowling unnecessary, so the whole process could be done in 1/2 hour: run up the engine to get the oil warm, suck oil out, pour new oil in. 

[Justin Schmidt]

1 hour ago, AndreiC said:

For a dump-and-fill process (25 hour oil change without filter change) what do people think of using a suction pump to remove the oil through the dipstick tube? I’ve been happily using one of these suction pumps quite happily for my cars, and it seems to remove all but a tiny bit of oil in 15 mins or less. 
 

This would make removing the cowling unnecessary, so the whole process could be done in 1/2 hour: run up the engine to get the oil warm, suck oil out, pour new oil in. 

I never remove cowling (side only)...hook up hose to quick drain and out the cowl flap

[Fly Boomer]

21 hours ago, AndreiC said:

For a dump-and-fill process (25 hour oil change without filter change) what do people think of using a suction pump to remove the oil through the dipstick tube? I’ve been happily using one of these suction pumps quite happily for my cars, and it seems to remove all but a tiny bit of oil in 15 mins or less. 
 

This would make removing the cowling unnecessary, so the whole process could be done in 1/2 hour: run up the engine to get the oil warm, suck oil out, pour new oil in. 

I haven't done it, but someone here was suggesting a device like this:

AMAZON~1.PDF

 

[MikeOH]

21 hours ago, AndreiC said:

For a dump-and-fill process (25 hour oil change without filter change) what do people think of using a suction pump to remove the oil through the dipstick tube? I’ve been happily using one of these suction pumps quite happily for my cars, and it seems to remove all but a tiny bit of oil in 15 mins or less. 
 

This would make removing the cowling unnecessary, so the whole process could be done in 1/2 hour: run up the engine to get the oil warm, suck oil out, pour new oil in. 

Honestly, I think that would take longer by the time you pull out the pump, set it up, pump, drain the container to dispose, put it away...

It takes me less than 2 minutes to remove the cheek cowl (1/4 turn fasteners), put the hose on the quick drain valve, put the other end in a bucket, and open the quick drain valve.  After draining, close valve, remove hose, another 2 minutes to replace the cheek cowl.

I spend more time putting in the oil!

[ArtVandelay]

Honestly, I think that would take longer by the time you pull out the pump, set it up, pump, drain the container to dispose, put it away...
It takes me less than 2 minutes to remove the cheek cowl (1/4 turn fasteners), put the hose on the quick drain valve, put the other end in a bucket, and open the quick drain valve.  After draining, close valve, remove hose, another 2 minutes to replace the cheek cowl.
I spend more time putting in the oil!

On the J you just need to undo the quick release of the left cowl flap to get access to the quick drain.

[A64Pilot]

I always pull the cowls, gives me a chance to inspect things and I wash the engine, a J it’s easy to remove cowling. I like a clean engine.

When I lived in S Ga I often had to remove a dirt dobber nest or two.

However no reason I could see why the vacuum wouldn’t work well I changed oil in the boat that way for years, the pump even was a good container to hold it for recycling. Mine used the same line as an icemaker so cheap replacements were easily available.

Depends on what you like but I see nothing wrong or problematic if you have a pump already, but if not I’d spend that pump money on 100LL

[Greg Ellis]

On 1/7/2024 at 6:03 PM, ArtVandelay said:

On the J you just need to undo the quick release of the left cowl flap to get access to the quick drain.

One thing I envy about you guys with newer models, the ease of removing cowls.  In my 63 C model, there are roughly 75 to 80 screws to remove to get both cheeks off.  

[JimC67]

On 1/8/2024 at 6:49 AM, Greg Ellis said:

One think I envy about you guys with newer models, the ease of removing cowls.  In my 63 C model, there are roughly 75 to 80 screws to remove to get both cheeks off.  

Preach! my '61 B has 40 for each side panel. I try to do everything all at once. I then go back and do the rest after I put the panels back on and forget something. :}

I installed a quick drain on mine last oil change, so the next one should be much cleaner. I put an oil absorbent pad under the filter to catch any residual oil, and that seemed to work just fine.

[Hank]

On 1/8/2024 at 6:49 AM, Greg Ellis said:

One thing I envy about you guys with newer models, the ease of removing cowls.  In my 63 C model, there are roughly 75 to 80 screws to remove to get both cheeks off.  

 

1 hour ago, JimC67 said:

Preach! my '61 B has 40 for each side panel. I try to do everything all at once. I then go back and do the rest after I put the panels back on and forget something. :}

I installed a quick drain on mine last oil change, so the next one should be much cleaner. I put an oil absorbent pad under the filter to catch any residual oil, and that seemed to work just fine.

I think my '70 C has nineteen (19) dzus fasteners on each cheek panel; the upper cowling then has five (5) dzus at the rear, one screw at each rear corner, and four screws at the front. The hard part is getting the front corners of the cowling down between the layers of the cheek panels, sometimes it takes several tries and generous pounding with your hand.

[ArrowBerry]

I've found it to be nearly impossible to remove the filter cleanly when the engine and oil is hot. We've tried a couple different things like the half PVC pipe, and those flexible rubber drain deflectors. They definitely make it better, but be darned I just can't seem to get it without a little bit of oil getting by that I have to clean up after. If you have time, my best advice is to drop the oil and let it drain overnight or at least a few hours. As long as it takes for the oil to cool and hopefully drain a little bit out of the filter and back into the engine... and then change the filter when it's cold. Doesn't seem to make nearly as much mess. Then the next day, or the next time I fly I'll change the filter, add oil, do my run up, inspect, and then go flying. 

[slowflyin]

I use antisplats EZ Oil filter drain.  Exceeds expectations.

 

[skykrawler]

Sounds like the OP lacks experience.   My recommendation would be to find an A&P willing to help you do the oil/filter change and get you trained up.

 

[SnowJustice]

Hi Everyone, thank you all for the golden advice.
It turns out that my problem finding the quick drain was kind of quirky, and something that no one here or anywhere else had mentioned. The quick drain on my plane has a more-or-less permanent hose attached to it. In fact, the drain end is attached to the bottom area where there is a nice little cutaway for the oil to drain. So it's just 1) remove pilot cowl, 2) put a bucket under the drain, 3) push down on the quick drain. That's it, nothing to attach/detach.
My issue was that I did not know this was a possibility, and therefore I was looking for a drain that looked like all the ones I've seen in pictures, with an exposed nipple that would accept a 3/8'' tube and perhaps anodized nice and shiny blue. Obviously, no such thing was to be found. Once I realized that "hey this thing with a hose already attached suspiciously looks like a quick drain" everything fell into place. Of course I knew I was being ignorant all along, I just didn't know how I was being ignorant this time (it changes often, apparently).
After that the oil/filter change went smoothly (aside from having ordered the wrong gender oil filter and having to re-order).