Wing Jacks

[isaacpr7]

So I spoke to Dave at LASAR and he said that the reason they are listed under hub caps is because they are part of a kit; however, he sold me a pair for 45 buck. I thought it was a great deal because they include the tiedown rings.

[N601RX]

I think they will also include a new rear tiedown loop. 

[Yetti]

And what is safety wire if not an engineers version of bailing wire that is a bit more shiny.  It was good to know that the engineers added duct tape to the Apollo 13 MEL.

 

But we should digress to people using electrical conduit as structure material welding to jacks.

[N601RX]

A true commercial aircraft jack is completely outside the price range that most of us can or will pay for something we only use occasionally. I think most of the commercial jacks start around $3500 per set. Other than the commercial jacks you can buy a set of prebuilt non-commercial jacks for around $700 or build something similar yourself for around $150. Commercial jacks are available in both 3 and 4 leg version, either is fine as long as you have a way to ensure all legs are firmly on the ground. If you are going to leave the plane up on jacks overnight or while you are not there then you need to add some kind of feature that will prevent the jack from leaking down.

I built my own a few years ago and have been very happy with them.

[Bob_Belville]

By "commercial" I mean purpose built in some sort of a manufacturing facility out of appropriate materials and sold by a responsible seller to aircraft owners and maintenance shops. Here's what I have, new @ ASpruce for $339 ea. 

 

www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/jackj106.php

 

Of course it is perfectly possible that you can source hydraulic cylinders, channel, tubing, angle, wheels, and weld together jacks that are as good or better than is available "commercially" for a few bucks less... if your time does't count. 

[isaacpr7]

This is how they jack planes at LASAR-

• Attach the engine hoist with strap to the engine mount.
• Place wing jacks under the jack points and either have two people jack simultaneously, or one person jacks an inch at a time going back and forth until the mains are off the ground.
• Jack the engine hoist until the nose tire is off the ground.
• Adjust and attach a tail stand to the rear tie down loop.
• Continue jacking the engine hoist until the plane is solidly supported at all four points.

Sadly, I did not take any pictures of the home made tail stands they have there. Basically, they look like a bigger version of an automotive jack stand, but the center column is threaded and screws up and down, so it's infinitely adjustable. On the top, it has a U shaped saddle with holes in it and a clevis pin is inserted through the saddle and the tie down ring.

Here are the photos I do have-

I had to change the nose tire and could not wait to try out the LASAR method from the pics you posted. I also tried the tail stand so I raised the nose just enough that the tie down ring locked the tail in place. Seems like a very sturdy method to me.

[isaacpr7]

Finally had time to drill the hole for the LASAR jack points.

[isaacpr7]

This is what they look like installed

[isaacpr7]

I ran into another issue. I installed the LASAR jack point and it fits like a glove; however, the thread on the other wing is too large for the jack point. It looks like someone installed an oversized eye bolt in the past as a tiedown ring. Does anyone have any suggestions?

[N601RX]

If I remember correctly mine have a thread insert installed in the aluminum. I'm not sure if it came from the factory that way or not.

[isaacpr7]

If I remember correctly mine have a thread insert installed in the aluminum. I'm not sure if it came from the factory that way or not.

??????????

Not sure I understand what you described.

[N601RX]

Remove the inspection panel next the jack point and see. I remember that there is a heavy piece of aluminum angle attached to the spar. The jack point screws into the horizontal leg of this angle. I don't remember if the threads are directly into the aluminum or if it uses a thread insert. I think I remember a thread insert.

[isaacpr7]

Remove the inspection panel next the jack point and see. I remember that there is a heavy piece of aluminum angle attached to the spar. The jack point screws into the horizontal leg of this angle. I don't remember if the threads are directly into the aluminum or if it uses a thread insert. I think I remember a thread insert.

Mike,

As usual, you're the man

I will take a look at that.

I sent you a PM.

[Andy95W]

I ran into another issue. I installed the LASAR jack point and it fits like a glove; however, the thread on the other wing is too large for the jack point. It looks like someone installed an oversized eye bolt in the past as a tiedown ring. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Use a 1/4-20 nylon locknut, probably obtained from your local hardware store. You will probably have to grind down one side. Use it to secure your new jack point.

[DaV8or]

I ran into another issue. I installed the LASAR jack point and it fits like a glove; however, the thread on the other wing is too large for the jack point. It looks like someone installed an oversized eye bolt in the past as a tiedown ring. Does anyone have any suggestions?

 

I had this issue too. My threads were wrong size too. I think what happens over the decades is the threads get stripped or worn out and they drill and tap to the next size up. The solution in my case was to Heli Coil down to the correct size. It worked fine and now I have steel threads instead of aluminum ones.

[isaacpr7]

I had this issue too. My threads were wrong size too. I think what happens over the decades is the threads get stripped or worn out and they drill and tap to the next size up. The solution in my case was to Heli Coil down to the correct size. It worked fine and now I have steel threads instead of aluminum ones.

Thanks for the education DaV8or. I didn't even know those things existed. A little pricey ($21 at Advanced Auto Parts) but I will give it a shot if the method that Mike suggested doesn't work for me.

[Andy95W]

Thanks for the education DaV8or. I didn't even know those things existed. A little pricey ($21 at Advanced Auto Parts) but I will give it a shot if the method that Mike suggested doesn't work for me.

If you spend $21 instead of 25 cents for a nut you may lose your status in the Cheap Ba$t@rd club...

[isaacpr7]

If you spend $21 instead of 25 cents for a nut you may lose your status in the Cheap Ba$t@rd club...

I wish I could make it rain like some aicraft owners. Then I wouldn't have a reason to be frugal

[N601RX]

I perfer these to helicoils in soft materials as long as there is enough material around them to hold the body which is slightly larger than a helicoil. Helicoil are expensive if you don't already have the special tap and insertion tool. The ones below use standard size taps and the tang can be driven with a small hammer and flat punch.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#93904a532/=v537f4

[isaacpr7]

I perfer these to helicoils in soft materials as long as there is enough material around them to hold the body which is slightly larger than a helicoil. Helicoil are expensive if you don't already have the special tap and insertion tool. The ones below use standard size taps and the tang can be driven with a small hammer and flat punch.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#93904a532/=v537f4

Those look awesome Mike; however, I checked through the inspection panel as you suggested and there is not enough material around the aluminum in which the point screws into. I ended up having to purchase the heli-coil.

[isaacpr7]

I had this issue too. My threads were wrong size too. I think what happens over the decades is the threads get stripped or worn out and they drill and tap to the next size up. The solution in my case was to Heli Coil down to the correct size. It worked fine and now I have steel threads instead of aluminum ones.

I had no choice but to purchase the heli-coil. It fits like a glove Thanks for your post DaV8or.

[isaacpr7]

Looks Good. You might want to add some safety collars so they can't leak down and possibly damage something.

I built a pair of jacks about a month ago. You can see the safety collar in the picture below. I got them from Mcmaster Carr for about $10 each. I had to machine the ID out to fit the Jack Shaft. I can look up the PN if you are interested. Leveling bolts are nice also if your is floor is as unlevel as my floor is.

Mike,

I purchased the safety collars from McMaster Carr as you suggested and they work great. They were a bit over 10 bucks because I purchased the extra grip version. I used 1-1/8" inner diameter for the wing jacks and 1-3/8" inner diameter for the engine hoist.

PS: It is amazing to see how fast corrosion sets in the jacks after a few days of cold humidity. I will be treating those with Corrosion X as well

[isaacpr7]

Well guys,

This will be my last set of pics for this thread. Thank you all for the helpful pictures that I was able to use when replicating the jacks and the lifting methods. I have to say, my MX and I were very impressed on how sturdy the setup is. It is so rock solid that I cannot feel any movement from any axis while climbing and moving around the aircraft. It might be a bit overkill but it gives me great confidence and piece of mind

[carusoam]

How is she running now, Isaac?

Best regards,

-a-

[isaacpr7]

How is she running now, Isaac?

Best regards,

-a-

She's running like a dream. I only flew her 26 hours this year because I put a bunch of back braking work into her. I'm super happy with the results. This year I reconstructed the interiors; overhauled both mags; replaced the starting vibrator; replaced the P-leads; repaired the 8 second ride issue; fixed the VOR indicator; changed the nose wheel tire; treated with Corrosion X; completed annual inspection, and fabricated or purchased enough tools to be an A&P some day

I could have not accomplished any of those things if it wasn't for my fellow Mooniacs guiding me through the entire journey. I am very grateful for everything you guys have taugh me.