dip stick tube gasket 72059

[Browncbr1]

Looking for gasket advice from our resident A&Ps and IAs.   The OEM gasket for the dipstick tube to case fitting is cork and can be had for a dollar to two.   I found a PMA replacement high temp silicone gasket (RG-72059) for $10.    Is it worth the extra to get the silicone gasket vs cork?   does cork crumble or break?  I would think silicone would be the way to go, but just thought i would ask the experts.

I've also been looking for a torque spec on the dipstick tube.  My sense about it is to tighten just the same as an oil filter (and safety wire of course).. 

 

thanks!

[jetdriven]

The only way I’ve seen that fixed is with an O-ring. And it fixes it for 5 years.  The gaskets leak after the dipstick is removed a couple times. It’s too thin and the threads are coarse on the tube which means it un-compresses the gasket.  Overtorquing the tube and safetying it hard causes the hole in the tube to pull through.  

[N6758N]

Just now, Browncbr1 said:

Look for gasket advice from our resident A&Ps and IAs.   The OEM gasket for the dipstick tube to case fitting is cork and can be had for a dollar to two.   I found a PMA replacement high temp silicone gasket (RG-72059) for $10.    Is it worth the extra to get the silicone gasket vs cork?   does cork crumble or break?  I would think silicone would be the way to go, but just thought i would ask the experts.

I've also been looking for a torque spec on the dipstick tube.  My sense about it is to tighten just the same as an oil filter (and safety wire of course).. 

 

thanks!

I thought the OEM one was just a paper type gasket? I've always put these on with a little pro-seal to ensure they don't leak in the future. You could do that with the cork as well. Silicone works well, just don't over tighten it...

[Browncbr1]

1 minute ago, jetdriven said:

The only way I’ve seen that fixed is with an O-ring. And it fixes it for 5 years.  The gaskets leak after the dipstick is removed a couple times. It’s too thin and the threads are coarse on the tube which means it un-compresses the gasket.  Overtorquing the tube and safetying it hard causes the hole in the tube to pull through.  

What o-ring part number would you recommend?

[Browncbr1]

1 minute ago, N6758N said:

I thought the OEM one was just a paper type gasket? I've always put these on with a little pro-seal to ensure they don't leak in the future. You could do that with the cork as well. Silicone works well, just don't over tighten it...

I suppose high temp silicone could be applied to the oem gasket too, but I thought the thick silicone gasket could compress and stay sealed like an oring as jetdriven mentioned.  

[N6758N]

Just now, Browncbr1 said:

I suppose high temp silicone could be applied to the oem gasket too, but I thought the thick silicone gasket could compress and stay sealed like an oring as jetdriven mentioned.  

What Byron is saying is true but only if it isn't installed properly the first time. Lycoming Part # 72059 with pro seal tightened properly (with a good safety wire job) should give you years of leak free operation. 

[MB65E]

I wouldn't use much torque. I've shattered the plastic ones in the past.

mine is aluminum and the threads are orgional from 64. So I put mine in with halomar. Holds for a few years, then repeat. What oring and silicone gasket are we talking about??

-Matt

[Browncbr1]

Just now, MB65E said:

I wouldn't use much torque. I've shattered the plastic ones in the past.

mine is aluminum and the threads are orgional from 64. So I put mine in with halomar. Holds for a few years, then repeat. What oring and silicone gasket are we talking about??

-Matt

Thank you for the critical advice about torque..  Mine is plastic too and will be sure to do it on a warm day with minimal torque to seat the gasket in any case.  I will also be sure not to over snug the dipstick down the road

 

 

Here is a link to the PMA silicone gasket I found...   https://www.ebay.com/itm/LYCOMING-DIPSTICK-TUBE-BASE-SILICONE-GASKET-IO-540-B-AND-SEE-BELOW-RG-72059/272042179971?hash=item3f56fa3d83:g:URwAAOSwPe1T67u7&vxp=mtr

I'm not sure which o-ring Byron was referencing.  

It seems the oem is either paper or cork.

[N6758N]

Craig, the silicone one actually looks promising. I would give it a try. 

[Browncbr1]

Just now, N6758N said:

Craig, the silicone one actually looks promising. I would give it a try. 

Will do, I'll give it a try and report back.  

[RobertGary1]

Funny, Lycoming shipped my new engine with a rubber gasket. I have no idea what the p/n is for it if I wanted to replace it with the same. Maybe AirPower would know.

 

-Robert

[jetdriven]

1 hour ago, N6758N said:

What Byron is saying is true but only if it isn't installed properly the first time. Lycoming Part # 72059 with pro seal tightened properly (with a good safety wire job) should give you years of leak free operation. 

I think that would work too but I'm not a fan of using PRC on gaskets, it makes them hell to remove. Mine was a paper gasket which ends up doing like the magneto gaskets do when you bump the mags.  It tears the center out of the gasket and it leaks. 

Anyways, the o-ring I used was one that had a ~3/32" cross section and it fit snugly on the tube below the threads. 

[N201MKTurbo]

Just don't let anyone else put the dipstick back in. Every time I let an FBO or anybody else put the dipstick in they over tighten it. They somehow think if they don't tighten it enough the world will end. Just spin it in and about a 1/4 turn after that. It has never come loose! I have had to get a crescent wrench to get it loose after some yahoo at an FBO tightened it. This has happened after I told the line guy repeatedly to just drop the dipstick back in the hole and not even screw it in. They can't help themselves they think it makes them more manly to see how hard they can screw it in!

[jetdriven]

I can't explain it but the Lycoming dipstick goes into the hole with a fourth of the effort than it takes to removeit. It's unbelievable how much force is required to remove it. Checking the aircraft trip log, it was me who installed it last, too.  

[EricJ]

I was getting a LOT of leakage from the fill tube and the local AP/IA put in one of these RG-72059 Real Gasket rings for me.   I've heard that they last much longer than the paper gaskets, which doesn't surprise me.    Seems to have taken care of the big leak, but I only have a dozen hours or so on it. 

[Hank]

What type of gasket / seal goes at the bottom of the dip stick tube? Mine's a little loose, I figure a new seal, tighten and re-safety wire is in order. I'm expecting the wiring to be painful . . .

[N6758N]

Just now, Hank said:

What type of gasket / seal goes at the bottom of the dip stick tube? Mine's a little loose, I figure a new seal, tighten and re-safety wire is in order. I'm expecting the wiring to be painful . . .

check the link for the one Craig posted. Looks like a good solution Hank.

[N6758N]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LYCOMING-DIPSTICK-TUBE-BASE-SILICONE-GASKET-IO-540-B-AND-SEE-BELOW-RG-72059/272042179971?hash=item3f56fa3d83:g:URwAAOSwPe1T67u7&vxp=mtr

[Hank]

Thanks!

[Releew]

Whatever gasket material you choose sandwich it between thin layers of red RTV.  Hand tight and a good safety wire job to keep it secure. 

No Leaky!