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Replacing CBs (Circuit Breakers, not Cheap Bastards)


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If you have access to the instrument panel back-side they are quite easy.

The access panels came off my 65C every year exposing the screws to all the CBs.  Unfortunately, the buss bar is attached to several at the same time.  It requires removing the buss bar to free up the CB.

Start with a plan.  Get the proper CBs, see what buss bar needs to be removed, have your mechanic sign the docs...

I was amazed that hardware that was installed for so long, came out pretty easily.

keep in mind, these are fuzzy old memories of a PP...

Best regards,

-a-

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Hey guys.  I need to replace a couple CBs and it looks like a monumental PITA.  Does anyone have any tricks to make the job easier?

I know, working on a Mooney and "easy" simply don't go hand in hand, but I am hopeful!  

I ended up having the right side rebuilt in part to do away with the challenge of trying to work in those close quarters.

From this:

0fa4df9c9cdf6e69170b4fb50149522f.jpg

To this:

44770fd5f73acceb736790c06c2d2d56.jpg

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Clearing up my thoughts...

The C had the CBs distributed along the bottom edge of the IP all in a row.  The F is a step more modern in comparison.

Thanks to marauder for generously and photographically pointing out the differences. :)

Best regards,

-a-

 

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If you have the 75 one like Maruader has....   All the dash panels are held in top and bottom.   Remove or move glareshield to the side.  The glare shield cannon connector is on the left side at the corner of the firewall and die of the plane. 

You are probably going to need to take out the right radio stack and since all the panels are screwed together at the top.  There are standoffs that hold the top of the panels to the firewall.  The bottom of the panels are through screwed to the steel tube that run under the dash.   Phillips and nylock nut on top.   Hint replace with allen cap screws so the next time is easier and easier to reinstall.  A fair amount of my phillips heads were stripped.

Once the top and bottom panel screws are removed and the panels are loose you should have a bit of room to reach around the back of the breakers and get things in out.

Be careful as the overhead eyeball light still has power when the master is off.  Not sure where it gets power from.....

Maybe a half day to get things in and out and put back together.

The Panel is an integrated unit.

 

 

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The pain and agony Yetti described is one of the reasons I had mine redesigned. In addition to getting it out easier, I wanted to clean up the under panel inline fuses and add breakers. Was also a chance to clean up old circuits that were no longer used.

My breaker panel comes out by removing the 3 screws on the bottom and the 4 on the left side attached to the right stack. The breaker panel has a lip that slides under the right radio stack and is screwed through holes in it. There still is a restriction on how much forward the breaker panel can move forward due to the length of the leads going to the breakers, but if you disconnect them from the panel, the panel can be removed. Mine are labeled on the breaker to say what hole they go back into. Hopefully my days of full panel pulls are behind me. :) At least until the next gadget comes along.

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Thanks guys! Yetti, yes, I have the same angled panel. My and Chris's airplanes are close sisters. Two serial numbers apart I believe.

At this point I am thinking redesign of that panel to have the EDM900 and breakers.

From the looks of things, it would appear replacing cheap bastards would be easier! Lol!

How much play is in the wiring behind the breaker panel? I still have the avionics bay covers, but there is not much space.

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Matt, are you replacing a few or all of them? I have the 60s vintage red "press to reset" CBs. I would love to swap them all out with the newer pull-types. I'll be watching your progress

Just a couple. My vacuum warning is intermittent and I tracked it down the the CB.

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Theoretically there are cannon plugs up towards the firewall that could be undone and the whole CB panel would come out. It seemed easier to just unscrew the row of breakers from the panel, pull the whole row out, Then replace the breaker.

loosebreaker.jpg

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Theoretically there are cannon plugs up towards the firewall that could be undone and the whole CB panel would come out. It seemed easier to just unscrew the row of breakers from the panel, pull the whole row out, Then replace the breaker.

loosebreaker.jpg

Ok. That makes more sense! I didn't think of removing the entire row.

Excellent! I wonder how many new words I will learn throughout the -900 install....

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The hardest part was the bottom bolts.  I believe one them came out "using force" and just breaking it off.  Upgrading with allan head cap screws makes it all better.

Remember. Not "force".... The proper term is, "motivation."

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7 hours ago, Guitarmaster said:

Remember. Not "force".... The proper term is, "motivation."

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"May the Motivation be with you" just doesn't do it.

Clarence

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10 hours ago, Guitarmaster said:

Remember. Not "force".... The proper term is, "motivation."

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Motivation requires a return to "the other" tool box.  Where there are "motivators" to help things come into compliance.   Force just uses the tools in your hand knowing that if you bend a screw back and forth enough it will break off.

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When I redid my panel, one of the goals was to allow access through the front of the panel.  The circuit breaker panel was designed to come out and flop down onto your lap.   It comes out with a few (about 4) screws, is hard wired with no canon plugs, and has a long enough service loop of wire to drop onto your lap.  It can be take out to be worked on in 5 minutes or less.  If redesigning the circuit breaker, this should be a goal.  There is a 0.090" circuit breaker panel into which the circuit breakers are installed, and a lighted overlay with the circuit breakers labeled engraved and illuminated.

Some food for thought.

John Breda

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When I redid my panel, one of the goals was to allow access through the front of the panel.  The circuit breaker panel was designed to come out and flop down onto your lap.   It comes out with a few (about 4) screws, is hard wired with no canon plugs, and has a long enough service loop of wire to drop onto your lap.  It can be take out to be worked on in 5 minutes or less.  If redesigning the circuit breaker, this should be a goal.  There is a 0.090" circuit breaker panel into which the circuit breakers are installed, and a lighted overlay with the circuit breakers labeled engraved and illuminated.

Some food for thought.

John Breda

That sounds like a great idea! Do you have any pictures?

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  • 3 weeks later...
Getting started on the EDM install. I am going to make a whole new panel to include the ACCUTRAK, headphone jacks as well as CBs.

More pics to come.

42a9c82c49c4a64cbb161a020d1e0abe.jpg962d4eecfb37a8b054991ca659ccc93d.jpg81af83a576d0c7d09946ca6e79288ec0.jpg1d3adc61572472841548616875bc67e3.jpg

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Can't wait to see the final product! Are you going to try to squeeze in another row of breakers? Once you start digging under the panel you may find a bunch of inline fuses you want to replace with breakers.

e38a2cd7eb036b57201ab64710a8d9cd.jpg

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Getting started on the EDM install. I am going to make a whole new panel to include the ACCUTRAK, headphone jacks as well as CBs. More pics to come.

42a9c82c49c4a64cbb161a020d1e0abe.jpg962d4eecfb37a8b054991ca659ccc93d.jpg81af83a576d0c7d09946ca6e79288ec0.jpg1d3adc61572472841548616875bc67e3.jpg

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Can't wait to see the final product! Are you going to try to squeeze in another row of breakers? Once you start digging under the panel you may find a bunch of inline fuses you want to replace with breakers.

e38a2cd7eb036b57201ab64710a8d9cd.jpg

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Right now the plan is to do four rows of 6. This will give us enough room to put the Accu Trak above the circuit breakers.

Of course, best laid plans....

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