Tips for scratch free removal of lower cowl

[VetRepp]

I have a M20R (long body) w/ 3-blade prop. Removing and replacing the lower cowl without minor scratches is a real challenge (Read Bieeeeatch !!), and needless to say a 2 person job. Does anyone have any tips / tricks. (This design setup was not Mooney's finest hour)

 

Thanks

[Jeff_S]

I don't have any tips or tricks but I agree with the point. Whenever me and my A/P do it I let him take lead and just tell me what to do. I have a J but I assume the R is similar in difficulty. The goal seems to be to get the edges out of the joint as gently as possible and then lower it so it doesn't hit the prop. But my (also three blade) prop has plenty of scratches on the blades near the hub, testifying to the difficulty.

[cbarry]

If you happen to be on a smooth enough floor to use a shop creeper this is what I do. ( Of course after removing the upper cowling.). I start by delatching the intake fasteners, then the fasteners across the bottom of the cowling leaving just the sides fastened. I'm doing this while sitting on the creeper directly in front of the nose wheel--so I'm basically under the the cowling. By positioning this way, I can reach both sides' fasteners. While loosing each sides' fasteners (from bottom to top) I'm providing support for the cowling with my free hand. Once it's loose, I simply lower the cowling enough that I am able to roll directly back and away from the nose. I agree that this design is not the best.

[Jamie]

I don't have anyone interested in coming out to the hangar to help with an oil change (get the cowl off). I've been thinking about building a frame with some rope and pulleys that would allow me to hook to the lower cowl and support it while I removed the last of the fasteners, and then lower it to the ground.  Then, when I'm ready to put it back, just pull the rope and raise the cowl into position.

 

I know something like this would work, because the last time I had the cowl off, a seriously hacked up version (necessity is a mother...) worked when nothing else would. A rope thrown over a support beam in the roof and attached to the cowl allowed me to get the cowl back on single handed.

[Hank]

When changing my oil, I remove the right cheek to drain it, then lift off the top and remove the left cheek. The bottom stays attached and only sags a few inches. I've removed it once, helped the A&P do something, lowered it gently to the floor. My blades are scratched at the bases from pulling the stainless spinner at annual, it's a tight fit.

[Cruiser]

I have a M20R (long body) w/ 3-blade prop. Removing and replacing the lower cowl without minor scratches is a real challenge (Read Bieeeeatch !!), and needless to say a 2 person job. Does anyone have any tips / tricks. (This design setup was not Mooney's finest hour)

 

Thanks

I don't think it is possible. This is definitely a two man job.

[N201MKTurbo]

Whale it is certainly easier with two people. I remove the lower cowl by myself all the time. It is a bit acrobatic and I hit my head on the prop a lot.

[Jamie]

Actually, the rope trick works pretty good. The real 'trick' is which hole to put the rope in. It can't be the aft-most. It needs to be a little further forward, probably close the cowl CG. I stand on the right side while pulling the rope with my left hand. Guide the cowl into place with my right hand, then pick up the screw driver I left on the top of the engine and screw in a few fasteners. Then, keeping the rope taut, move to the other side and do the same. You have to wiggle it a bit to clear the "tab" on the bottom near the nose gear.

 

All of this would be easier if I had a frame that could grab the cowl from both sides.

[DonMuncy]

On my 231, I roll my wheeled stool under the cowling. It is about 2 or 3 inches below the cowling. After loosening the fasteners and shaking it just right, it drops down onto the stool. I maneuver it under and away from the prop. To replace it, I roll it on the stool back under and then use welding rod or coat-hanger wire hooks. Hook a central fastener hole and up to a convenient spot on the engine. Lift the other side by hand to where it is close. Then put another hook on that side. Back to the other side and wiggle it into place enough to start a cam lock then back to the other side and start a few there. It takes a few "back and forths" but it takes me probably 10 to 15 minutes to install the lower cowl. I do it all the time by myself.

[Hank]

You have a stainless ~steel~ spinner, Hank?

It sure looks and feels like it. Guess I need to check it, but if it's 300-series it is still non-magnetic.

[29-0363]

It only takes one careless removal of the bottom cowl to do the damage. Whenever my M20R needs engine bay access I insist that strips of duct tape are placed where it is vulnerable.  

 

I also make the point that if they do scratch the paint,  the repair cost will be their problem. 

[kmyfm20s]

I use 2 bungee cords over the engine, front and back to take it off so it doesn't drop on the floor. To put it back on, a step stool that I shim up with a beach towel and then the bungee cords to pull it up and get the fasteners in place. I also use blue painters tape in vulnerable areas to scratching. 

[harrispa]

On the long body with 3 blade, use tape on the fuselage, and a foam pad or carpet on the floor. The rear is lowered first, then the front. This is the only way I have been able to get the cowl off alone. Of course it is much easier with two people.

Paul

[laytonl]

I use an old bedspread on the hanger floor and just gently lower the cowling to the floor. It works relatively well on my J. Lee