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Questions asked Questions answered Tribal knowledge says 40 pounds on the shelf As to the push/pull rods - that's way out in the future for engineering to look at BUT big thanks to Frank for getting back to me so quickly Great support response!!!! Thanks for the lead also !!

And haul ass in the teens instead of wheezing along to the point it’s just not worth going above 12.5 in an N/A most of the time but yea we pay for that premium.

A turbo charged airplane is a matter of preference. Personally, I don’t want a plane without a turbocharger. The cost of a turbocharger is minor compared to the overall cost of ownership. Being able to fly over the bad weather is worth it to me.

I'm on my way home from San Marcos TX, where Brian just installed the FS210 in my Bravo. It works perfectly.. $400 for the .37 update. $1000 for the FS210 install, and the cost of the FS210. We tried to install the wiring directly from the GTX345R to the FS210, but the single RS422 port on the 345R already feeds the GIA63W. Connecting just RS232 doesn't support Connext FMT 3 (It supports FMT 1 and FMT 4, but the FS210 wouldn't come online with either of those 2. In the end it doesn't matter you can leave bluetooth on the GTX345R and FS210 and you get the flight plan transfers and the ADSB weather and traffic. The install does require the Cirrus manifest for the FS210, just setting the serial port to Connect isn't enough.

My goal definitely wasn't weight savings. I could probably ditch the spare tubes or the spare screw bin in the back and save more weight haha. It is nice not having the vacuum pump in the way now though, makes oil filter changes a little easier.

It for sure does, getting used to the G5s a bit still, but I did do an RNAV approach and the CDI function works great, nice to have it right along side the attitude/alt. Also nice having accurate TAS without having to do math. My plan for the right is a magnet ipad mount that a passenger can use, but otherwise clean when I am flying solo. There is a tray behind the right side holding the Trig com and CGR data boxes, so not as much room as it appears. We did leave enough room to put an autopilot control head just to the right of the 430, probably an Aerocruze or Trig(once it's released)

Looks beautiful and capable

Do any of you remember what it took for Mooney to recertify the fuselage for "just" adding a second door and a composite "fairing" on the forward fuselage? It took so much time, effort (with the FAA oversite), and money that it killed the company Making changes to a "certified" aircraft is a very costly endeavor because its the FAA on the hook and not just the manufacturer. The wording is- FAA CERTIFIED They don't stick their neck out for anything or anyone. But of course Mooney also never did market well to their customers or come out with marketable ideas- they just spent money on losers- M22, M10, Porsche, MU-2, D model, and quite possibly the 2 door model But most abysmally, was their marketing to the flying public. All one had to do was go to OSH and visit the Cirrus booth and then go by the Mooney booth and it didn't take a rocket scientist to see which one knew how to sell airplanes - THE MAIN purpose of being in business. I personally saw them lose a brand new sale (right near the end) to an overseas customer who came all the way to OSH to give them money and no one at OSH, from the factory, would even talk to him. Don't get me wrong, I love my Mooney but one has to sit back and smell the roses.

I looked it up on my copy of the AFMS and I'll just paste in the Limitations section and highlight the answer to your question in bolded text: POWER PLANT LIMITATIONS Propeller Manufacturer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Hartzell Propeller Hub/Blade Model Number . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . PHC-J3YF-1RF/F7693DF(B)-2 Number of Blades . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 Propeller Diameter: Hartzell Min . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 in. Max . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 in. Engine Operating Limits for Takeoff and Continuous Operations: Green Arc - Normal Operating Range . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2200 - 2699 RPM Red Line - Maximum Limit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2700 RPM Maximum Continuous Power . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310 BHP Also, in the prior Section 1 under Descriptive, it shows the following for the engine, again in bolded concerning recommended max cruise, and again this isn't a limitation but a recommendation but what "max cruise power" really means is where you can start leaning the engine to best power. But the the TCM IO-550 Maintenance and Operators manual will give much better and more detailed guidance on RPM and Leaning curves in addition to what has already be posted on the power chart. Notice in subsequent pages they say Cruise power should be 2550 rpm and 24" MAP which is actually substantially less than 262 BHP and very close to 75% power - which is a reasonable. DESCRIPTIVE DATA ENGINE Number . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Manufacturer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Continental Motors Incorporated Model Number . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . IO-550-G modified per STCSE02930AT Optional Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . IO-550-N Number of Cylinders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Displacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 550 Cu. In. (9014 cc) Maximum Continuous Power . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310 BHP Maximum Continuous RPM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2700 Maximum Recommended Cruise Power / RPM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 262 BHP / 2550 RPM

If you have a 430 also, it changes the advice. With the 430 I would put in the 165.

Wow that ad sure way underestimated the price per clamp geesh!

Snow? Fog? it was either 0/0 weather or the picture didn’t load.

I would do Florida, Texas, or New Mexico. Florida wins for business freedom, potential property tax repeal, and overall warm weather. Texas is fine...not as conservative or business friendly as people think. Some things are improving with recent business personal property tax legislation. But other things are getting worse because these municipalities can't stop participating in socialism lite by paying off businesses to come here in the name of "Jobs". We have plenty of jobs. We don't need artificial growth raising the cost of living and doing business....but here we are... Real Estate property taxes are insane here. If our families weren't here, I'd be pushing hard to move to FL (lived there a bit). If choosing Texas, I would probably shoot for Waco, Amarillo, Wichita Falls, Tyler, or Longview. New Mexico is beautiful and the property taxes are apparently very favorable in how much they can increase year over year. Source: I have insurance licenses in 47 states plus DC. My business is licensed in the same places. We have other business filings in certain states based on known legal necessity. I live in Dallas (and pay for it) and it's a complete disaster here.

Sooo.... Got the plane back from the shop. IFR certified up to 28,000'. Yikes! But the interesting part is that the oil is coming from the quick-drain on the sump and from the mess that I made when changing the oil. The quick-drain is apparently supposed to have a cap over it and it didn't have one when I bought the plane, so I never thought to look in the box of spare parts for one. And then when I changed the oil, I accidentally spilled and it ran down the bottom of the oil line to the bottom of the turbo.

Well now, hold on. Which engine do you have exactly? The TCM parts manual for my TSIO-360SB shows the original (spot welded) part as 653337 and it also states that the part is superseded by part 670105 (riveted). This aligns exactly with the AD. These parts (670105) are shipping from various suppliers. I got one last week. Do you have a different engine variant that uses a different part number? Heres a shot from the tcm online parts catalog:

This is a primary factor that helped convince me a few years ago that Wichita is the long-term place for me, even after living here for 25+ years at the time. I'm from Texas, love Texas, will always claim Texas, but these days there are many places in Texas I would not live, and many I don't even enjoy visiting any longer due to congestion and traffic. Wichita is just right for me, and most importantly, cost of living allows me to own and enjoy a nice Mooney, which in turn can get me *away* from Wichita whenever I like to visit other places. I currently have a pretty nice rental hangar at a great muni airport in town for $358/mo. I'm in the process of buying my own hangar at an airpark as I mentioned, just to secure my own future storage solution while I prepare to build a home and hangar. My rental hangar might be $500-$1000 in a "major" metro area with a multi year wait. I could get a cheaper hangar far away, but as often as I fly and tinker, that degrades quality of life and convenience. Back when I still had a wandering eye, my survey of hangar options was depressing, and made me happy with what I have. For that reason, I'd encourage any Mooney owner looking to relocate to find a hangar solution first.

At the risk of being "that guy", I don't understand why these claims are always exaggerated. RC-Allen vacuum powered gyros weigh 2.7 lbs and a Rapco vacuum pump specs out at 4.75. The PVC hoses (usually) and clamps that connect the stuff weigh about 1lb max, so total of about 11 lbs. That gets replaced with dual G5s and a GAD29 plus wiring plus an engine accessory cover plate that adds up to about 3 lbs, so the delta is less than 10 lbs. Take one less gallon of fuel or spend a few weeks skipping hamburgers and hitting the gym, and it's break even. There are valid reasons to remove the vacuum system in an upgrade, but massive weight savings isn't one of them.

Sooner or later you can find anything on eBay if you're patient!

Starting to feel like I'm hunting Zebras with regards to the valves. Both intake and exhaust are smooth with the appropriate wobble. I had another A&P take a look and I did not offer an opinion prior to his diagnosis. He concurred all is well. I also uploaded a video and pics for Savy to diagnose. Same. I bought these jugs new from Lycoming and sent them directly to Victor for valve work. I'm reluctant to ream just for the sake of reaming as I'm in the do no harm camp. I may come back to the valves but for now I'm starting to re-diagnose. Thanks again for weighing in!

Yeah I’m sure he was overly stressed and not at the top of his game after prop striking the airplane.

You should still ream them, but do so slowly to keep a smooth finish, they may just be tight, it happens. Ideal world valve guides are honed not reamed, the finish is important. A Sodium filled valve runs cooler, it does so by transferring the heat from the head to the stem better, the stem then transfers the heat to the head of course, but the stem in a sodium filled valve runs hotter than an unfilled one as metal expands with heat, if you run LOP as I do your EGT is higher than ROP which could run a valve slightly hotter. It’s though that Lycomings are more susceptible to sticking valves due to sodium filled valves. Not taking away from LOP, as I said except for high power I run LOP myself. Sticking valves can lead to bad outcomes

Yes, but thanks for the advice.

The idea is to get the signals to or from the circuit boards in the radio as cleanly as possible, and pin 15 is the closest connection to the grounds on the circuit board(s). That's where the received signals enter the receiver, and where the outgoing signals are generated. There are compromises that can be made, but generally that's the idea.

I'll give it a try BTW Some time back I asked the factory about a Letter of No Technical Objection to use the spring push rods on the nose gear of the manual gear Mooneys and they aid they'd talk about it and I never heard back I'll bring that up also. Thanks.

Someone who doesn't post here anymore used the red/brown D shaped foam weather strip from the aviation isle at Home Depot with good success years ago.

If you glue the double sided tape down with some better adhesive, it will eventually fail at the other side of the tape. The only way I’ve ever found to make them reliable is to scrape off the double sided tape, clean the surface and glue them down with RTV. You have to tape them in place overnight before you use them. It isn’t very convenient.

A couple of mechanics I know swear by MMO for flushing stuck rings. Use the Savvy procedure using MMO as the solvent.

Call a hose shop. If you look in the Stratoflex catalog, it shows all the different hose/fitting combinations.

Regardless of the state/area you choose, I would suggest a fly-in community. It was a very happy choice for us and it puts a nice aviation "wrapper" around the local environment.

I had ten pounds of ADF loop coiled up on mine.

Sorry. Incomplete response. You are correct regarding ground function when taxing. What I meant is that if sitting on the ground with the engine running, but not moving, if the yoke goes hard over it could be a leak. I’ve knocked off a trim hose and it will also cause a hard over. You can compensate for that with the heading bug, but it will be offset. Kevin is probably right regarding gyro, but still worth leak checks.

Nice, clean and tidy. And 20 lbs lighter without the vac system. Nice job!!

Boy these would make a great Mooney Summit Silent auction item if they still exist and if the owner would donate them!

Using the Court to seek relief in this case doesn't seem like a good use of time or money - even in Small Claims Court. A Judge will see, as previously highlighted, "too many cooks in the kitchen"...."Owner Assisted" Annual. Owners jacking the plane up, turning wrenches, loosening bolts, nuts, screws, removing parts/panels. tugging on things (like wires). etc. The owners already admit not installing an oil filter correctly - not finishing a simple task. Where do the Owner's faults end and where do the A&P/Shop mechanic's faults begin? How can a Judge determine exactly who did what? The idea of paying an IA (why would anyone provide an "expert evaluation" for free?) based up "hearsay claims" by the owners seems expensive and weak. How would the third party AI know whether the footwells were crushed during this particular Annual or whether they were crushed partially/mainly in some previous Annual(s) during this Mooney's 46 year life? I say "hearsay" because unless the Owners have dated photographic evidence from the day before the Annual, then it is just their word. And besides, I have never heard of an A&P or IA sticking their neck out in Small Claims Court to criticize the work another aircraft mechanic. Yes you hear about it in high profile Jury cases involving fatalities. But in Small Claims Court, maybe if you find an IA that is retired and never has to suffer the wrath of retribution from other mechanics you might find someone to take your money and give you an "opinion". The Owners claim that the bent spinner ring happened sometime during last year's Annual or between last year's Annual and this Annual. - So this is not even a fault with this year's Annual. Is the claim on this year's Annual, that the A&P didn't flag it as Not Airworthy, and for not forcing the Owners to pay even more for the cost of and installation of a new Spinner Ring? The broken wire, the scrape under the wing, missing nuts, pliers on the engine - you can't prove that it was the fault of the A&P. The Magneto shop screwed up and made it right. And the A&P that the OP wants to sue now reimbursed him to have someone else install the correct Magneto - so it shows that he is not totally unreasonable. I am sorry to hear the OP's bad luck but I don't see a Court helping them. I had to switch shops on short notice for an Annual a few years back. As it turned out, the shop hired regular auto mechanics to work under supervision of Certified A&P's in the shop. One day I went over and witnessed a mechanic in the process of completely removing all the plastic (and you know how brittle all that old Royalite is) and the insulation in my hat rack "to look for corrosion". I was incredulous and went to the shop foreman and said "WTF is going on?" Then, I had a fuel tank leak so they called in Aero Structural Services, so called tank specialists out of Hobby Airport here in Houston. I came over and these idiots were trying to seal the leak in my tank from the outside. They were gooping something on the outsides of the tank seams by way of some of the wing panels. Needless to say I still had a leak and now also a mess inside the wings. Aero Structural Services may be good at doing structural aluminum repair and welding, but they know nothing about Mooney's wet wings. I had to argue for a reduction in shop hours charged with the shop owner. They were also trying to make me eat the Aero Structural Services bill because they were a subcontractor. I refused to pay the Aero Structural bill because of the incompetence Aero Structural and of the shop that hired them in the first place. The shop signed off for the Annual complete except for the leaking fuel tank. I wound up having to Ferry my plane to another A&P to get that done. And I never went back to the shop that failed me.

Finished up and flew home the other day. Loving it!! Still a few things to finish with a cover plate on the new left yoke and some nice labels/decals. So tidy, exactly as I had in mind! The PAR200B is incredibly high quality, no alternator whine like my old KMA24. The Trig remote com also works flawless.

The other problem is, in many cases there are lots of customers with good experiences with the same shop. Unless, like some, the shop is rotten to the core.

I have mixed feelings about lacing cord vs Ty-Raps. I used to work for the phone company and laced miles of wire. It makes for a very neat wire bundle. It is certainly easier to pull a bundle back that is laced vs Ty-Rapped. I have never cut my hand on lacing cord. It takes longer to lace wires than putting on a Ty-Rap. It is difficult to lace wires in tight places. I do both. Ty-Wraps were developed for Boeing to secure aircraft wire bundles. https://global.abb/group/en/technology/did-you-know/ty-rap--cable-ties#:~:text=The Ty-Rap™ cable,cable ties have been produced. The idea of the cable tie came to Logan while touring a Boeing aircraft manufacturing facility in 1956. Aircraft wiring was a cumbersome and detailed undertaking, involving thousands of feet of wire organized on sheets of 50-foot-long plywood and held in place with knotted, wax-coated, braided nylon cord. Each knot had to be pulled tight by wrapping the cord around one's finger which sometimes cut the operator's fingers until they developed thick calluses. Logan was convinced there had to be an easier, more forgiving, way to accomplish this critical task. For the next couple of years, Logan experimented with various tools and materials. On June 24, 1958, a patent for the Ty-Rap cable tie was submitted.[10]

Leaner mixtures burn slower and reach peak pressure later after ignition than rich mixtures. Ignition timing is fixed and set to provide peak pressure at the crankshaft angle that produces maximum torque at full rich, maximum manifold pressure and max rpm to get rated power. LOP, the peak pressure occurs after of the optimum crankshaft angle. Since timing is fixed, your only remedy is to slow engine rotation to get closer to the optimum operating point.

After a while you look like this and raising the gear gets really easy

Nav tracking in Brittain autopilots relies on a +/- 5V DC differential input that signals course deviation. The installation manual specifies this input should be driven by the output of an "omni indicator". In the era when Brittain was still supporting products, that phrase was generally understood to be a CDI or HSI that produced an analog output signal indicating deviation. For example, in the King KI-208/209 installation manual it's the "lateral deviation" signal output by the unit. Modern (and not-so-modern) GPS navigators typically implement a +/- 5V DC analog lateral course deviation output (note: you may have to enable this output in the configuration settings). The Garmin 175 has such an output. It is designed to drive older HSI/CDI instruments that rely on analog inputs, not autopilots. But it coincidentally happens to be the same signal the Brittain autopilot needs for nav tracking. The electrical engineer in me thinks one should probably install some sort of isolator/repeater if you connect it this way, since Garmin never tested it with the load presented by a Brittain autopilot. But in practice, it's probably fine. So... If your Garmin 155 is presently driving an "omni indicator" (CDI or HSI), which you plan to retain in your Garmin 175 installation, and which implements analog deviation outputs that are connected to your autopilot, then you wouldn't have to change any of the connections to the autopilot. You'd only have to interface the 175 to your existing CDI/HSI, and there is essentially no question about the legality of such an installation. If your Garmin 155 has its analog outputs wired directly to the autopilot rather than through a CDI, you'll be able to do the same with the 175, and its even easier than connecting via a CDI/HSI. But whether this new installation (and your existing installation) are "legal" depends on whether the person doing the work interprets the connectivity diagrams in the Brittain and Garmin manuals as restrictive, or merely representational. There has been some arguing about this in the past on Mooneyspace and elsewhere, but all of it (including posts by me) is bloviation. The only person whose opinion matters in practice, is your installer's I bring it up only because you might want to ask your installer about this as part of the investigation process, before you put down a deposit. You don't want to wind up with your airplane in their shop, torn up and halfway through the work, and only then be told, "Uh, we can't legally hook up to your autopilot". Sadly, you can't necessarily rely on the shop to study this kind of issue up front. A lot of avionics shops don't really study the work of a particular installation until they actually have the airplane apart.

Within the first 45 seconds of the video, it is clearly stated that this company is bringing back Helio Courier for "Certified" production.

Just to update this story, we ordered and received the LW-15473 pump, and our mechanic installed it today. Ground ops are normal, fuel pressure gauge shows 25 psi with just the engine driven pump, increases to about 27 with the boost pump on, all looks good. Test flight will have to wait for better weather, but I don't anticipate any problems. At the (small) risk of affecting my core trade-in, I disassembled the old pump to look at the diaphragms. Comments from @cliffy and @N201MKTurbo seem spot on - it would not be difficult to self-overhaul the pump if we could get a kit to do so, but the combination of market and paperwork makes that a hassle. Anyway, while I was not able to actually find a breach in the main diaphragm, it was clearly on its last legs - the outer edges of the diaphragm were brittle, with a consistency more like cardboard than rubber. Lousy piece of junk only lasted 31 years, guess they just don't make things like they used to.

I have found that there is always a divide between what the news indicates about a place and how it actually is. The vast majority of California is very conservative, but they don't get to make the rules and the news rarely talks about those parts of the state. You can't always judge a book by its cover. I spent 8 years living in a city that that is considered a liberal meca. I met some of the most racist people I have ever met there. It was appalling.

To add another quick note... If I came in here and said I am moving to the US and want to know of good places to live, work, and keep my airplane but it has to be in xxx, yyy, zzz and nothing else, I think it would be quite unproductive. I would get all kinds of questions about why here and why not there. Or I would get a whole bunch of suggestions I would have to just ignore. Fair enough I guess. I have my reasons, and my preferences. I'm putting them out there. If you don't agree with them, or think they are nonsense, dont try to convince me that I shouldn't have them, simply don't respond. What I am absolutely more open to is to try and convince me that a certain place is not what I (or the media) thinks it is and might be a good option for me. Here is the opportunity for all the CA advocates to tell me how low the taxes and great the crime policies are.

Thanks for this @Hank, as well as your previous post that contained exactly what I was looking to gain from this post. I have actually visted Guntersville AL right up the road from Huntsville and the people at the airport as well as a few in town at local shops were lovely. I'm not saying I expected otherwise, but of all places in the US that I would expect to feel like a fish out of water, AL is one of them. @Mark942 I find your response quite ironic to be honest. Thinking I should not be allowed to voice my opinions here and trying to stifle free speech is one of the reasons I want to come to the US. I would prefer to be in a place where the right and left alike don't try to force their opinions on others or stop them from expressing theirs. I specifically said I am not looking for a political debate. I am happy to hear opinions of how the country and certain areas are doing though... who wouldn't? I also find it interesting that you think you know where I stand politically. I would bet $100k that you have no clue where I stand politally, how I voted in my last 5 elections or how I would have voted in your last 5 elections had I been in the US. I posted a request to find a nice place where I can work as a PILOT, and where I can buy a hangar to keep my MOONEY. I also happen to have some other requirements (which I would think anyone would) so I don't think thats crazy, nor a reach to call it aviation or Mooney related. I figured I would be open about my situation and give a bit of background to save some time for the people who would come on here and suggest I settle in Cathetral City and keep my plane at KUDD. Yes, it would be totally awesome to have a hangar attached to my house which opens right up on the taxiway to a decent airport within an hour flight to awesome places and beautiful mountains. I think California is one of the most beautiful states I have visted, but I still can't do it. @DXB Thank you for these suggestions. I will be putting them on my list. @dkkim73 In response to the geography questions/comments... I like lakes, forests, and green. I currently have a cabin on 2 acres on the water about 1.5 flight north of me right now that I like to get away to. It is deadly quiet but still only 20 minutes from a small town. I would love to be able to find some sort of similar arrangement in the US where I can get in the plane in the city and fly to a more remote area to relax for a week at a time between my rotations. I know the green/lakes eliminates some of my choices in the west, but that isn't a hard no as the west has its own beauty and charm. There is also another person involved in this decision so I am simply looking for suggestions on places to visit so we can both go have a look. @1980Mooney I figured that everyone knew what "woke" meant but I will take you at your word and give you my definition, or at least tell you what I am not looking for. I want to avoid places that have government policy that encourages crime, drug use, and prints and hands out money for doing nothing destroying the economy and local neighborhoods. Policies that try to force agendas and things to go a certain predetermined way. DEI is a perfect example. The term "woke" applies because the reasons for doing these things is in the name of kindness and social justice but is at the detriment of others but more importantly, it's a detriment to the people is claims to support. If you are offended by the term "woke", give me another term for policies that support having taxpayers fund supplying homeless people with drugs, guns and other things to set up in local parks and shoot heroin in the middle of the street while you walk by with your children. I'm not trying to be a smartass, nor am I trying to get into a political discussion. I answered your question because you asked. I wanted to show that I am genuine in my post and I am looking for places to visit, and hopefully one day settle down in and build a new life. Locations, airports, towns, cities. Keep em coming. I'm not moving tomrorow, I have time to visit dozens in the next couple years.

Attend a Mooney Safety Foundation Pilot Proficiency Program. https://www.mooneysafety.com/proficiency-programs/

The best wisdom I can share is to start practical training for the IR. First, that will be more time in the air during which you will continue to gain experience. More importantly, the IR is the best safety investment you can make; you will learn fundamental skill in operation of the airplane that will also apply to VFR flight. The procedures I learned during IR make me a better pilot. Lastly, the Bravo is a travelling airplane and the IR will be like a cheat code when it comes to travelling. The dirty secret is that it's easier to fly IFR than VFR, especially on longer trips.

Since you're open to feedback . . . here are some ideas for you You have a nice airplane which is a later model in the evolution of the J, so the more running improvements it has, which is a great thing. You have a nice modern panel which will help the most in selling it. You have it priced as a "turn-key" top of the market J. It wouldn't take that much to make it that airplane. First impression is everything. -If it was mine I would spend $2000 - $3000 and get someone that can blend paint well and get the airplane up from a "5" to a "7.5". Also, make sure the underneath and the wheel wells look great. -Since you've already done the carpets I would pull the seats and find an upholstery shop that can do them in leather. You should easily be able to find a mom and pop shop that can do four seats for $4000. If the Royalite panels are yellowed at all I would pull them while the interior is out and use SEM products to clean, prep and paint them.(If you do a search on here you'll find examples of the results this produces.) -Carefully look over the engine compartment from a buyer's perspective. How do the baffles look? How do the valve covers look? Is everything clean? If not then there's some work to do to getting it there. Since the engine already has a question mark on it (Jewell plus the IRAN), I would have the very best shop do a compression check, borescope, etc. and pay them for a detailed report. Put some hours on it while you're getting it ready and provide oil analysis records to prospects for inspection. -Then I would take a minimum of 50 pictures of it with everything possible shown. (Cowl on, cowl off, too many of the interior, too many of the exterior, every conceivable panel shot, etc, etc, etc). I would have scanned the logs into pdfs before the first mention of the airplane being for sale was made. -Although it's the market that ultimately determines what an airplane actually sells for, I would carefully research and price the airplane correctly to begin. Pricing it too high gives the impression of trying to catch a naive buyer. The listed price should be very close to where it ends up otherwise it was priced incorrectly from the start. If you've done it correctly you can confidently say that you feel it's priced correctly, but in what areas do you feel it doesn't meet the market price? The last airplane I sold for asking price and it was worth it. The one before was $5000 below asking, but the market was soft. I don't believe in putting fluff in the price for negotiations, since you are actually asking for back and forth in pricing by doing that. If you have a serious buyer and it's priced correctly they will see that. What you hope is that they have looked at quite a few airplanes that didn't show well in person and they are looking for the best example of a particular model being sold. At that stage in their pursuit of an airplane they will gladly pay a few dollars more than they wanted to for the right airplane. That eliminates the people you don't really want to deal with. Every airplane I've sold was a "No-excuse" airplane where I had no concern what a person was really going to think when they saw it in person, and no worries about what a pre-buy was going to uncover. You are looking for someone that wants to buy an airplane to fly, not a project to work on. Your airplane is 90-95% of the way there already. The last remaining details will make all of the difference in whom it attracts.

As an FYI: the Valve Wizard lists IO 550 N and G as incompatible with their tool. I think that covers all generations of the NA big engine long bodies. https://valvewizard.com/pdf/ExceptionList.pdf

That was painful to watch.