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phxcobraz

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Everything posted by phxcobraz

  1. Same, I had asked a couple mechanics I worked with and they all said it's normal and can't be adjusted, so I kinda took their word for it and planned to just replace it. Glad it worked out for you also!
  2. Good news. Got out tonight and loosened the back nut about 3/4 turn and tightened the front nut down tight. It’s significantly tighter, actually had to play with it some to reduce tension as it got too tight. Need to do a runup still to see if it affects static full RPM or needs limit adjustment at the governor. Promising though. I used a 1in crowfoot wrench on a long extension/ratchet and was able to loosen/tighten the rear panel nut. Another bonus, while I was under the panel I noticed the connector to my GI106 that stopped working recently was fully disconnected and hanging. Reconnected and it’s working again. Will address the connector at annual next week.
  3. Awesome I will await your hopeful success. I am doing annual next week, so if we can tighten the nuts down to add tension I may not need it, but I would still rather get it replaced now than at failure. But we can install it a later date.
  4. If I am reading that correctly it is P/N 660189. I found this from McFarlane, however the -005 isn't referenced, but it is listed for propeller. https://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/products/product/MC660189-005/ I might call McFarlane back with this and confirm it will work.
  5. Found it. Looks super helpful. https://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/products/product/TOOL132/
  6. I have some angled head crescent wrenches I am hoping make getting in there easier. I bet getting the J-Bar handle out of the way would also help, if you could throw it on jacks.
  7. Thank you this is very helpful. Your S/N is in the same range as mine. Do you have the McCauley prop and Woodward Governor, with the prop cable running down the firewall from pilot to copilot side? If so I am guessing your prop cable is the same as mine, and I could just order the same. The throttle seems to be the same on all the Mooney with the O-360(C/D/G) and doesn't have much of a bend to it, so I bet that is the same also. Most 63 M20C don't seem to have the prop option. The 8 week turnaround is what I am trying to avoid. I would like to keep flying while waiting on the new controls, vs sending them for duplication and being down for 2-3 months.
  8. That’s what I’m expecting to do. I will give tightening a try, from my understanding the adjustment for tension was very limited.
  9. I'm wanting to have my prop and throttle controls replaced at annual this month. The prop won't hold tension any longer and throttle is missing the tension adjustment long before I got it. I'm trying to work with McFarlane to get the right ones ordered or, possibly I send my existing to them to duplicate. My SN 2434 is not in their list for compatible cables, and I have the more uncommon McCauley prop/Woodward governor combo. The prop cable goes out the left side of the firewall, down a support bracket on the firewall, and to the governor. Anyone have a parts list for the older Mooney control cables? McFarlane is trying to see if referencing a different s/n will help find one they already make/have that will fit.
  10. I get something similar. It comes out the breather right by the cowl flap and blows back towards the front gear door hinge. It doesn't take much oil to make a mess.
  11. Somewhere around $2500 for my M20C the last few years. That is with me helping as much as possible.
  12. Ordered stuff today. All good. I kinda like shutting down your phone number on days off. I need to remember this.
  13. I too pull the throttle out a bit as I read that helps with leaning. I’ll have to try a touch of carb heat and see how that evens out. I would imagine it helps smooth out the vibrations.
  14. Thank You. That goes with what my understanding has been, but recently had a conversation with someone that made me doubt it.
  15. Beating a dead horse here probably but want some clarity, as most info you find on leaning is focused around injected and LOP/ROP discussion. You can also just tell me to not pay any attention to EGT and that is pretty much what I have been told by a few people. What are you all seeing for peak EGTs on your carbureted engines? Where do you normally operate at? My M20C(O-360-A1D), carbureted, has no issues with warm CHTs, in fact I usually climb about 400deg in the AZ summer and cruise at 325 hottest around 7-10k ft. Engine runs pretty flawless. Full rich on full power climb I am about 1475-1500 EGT on the hottest cyl. My EGTs are hard to pin down,, usually cyl 1 peaks first, at cruise(7-10k) if I lean to a stumble and then enrichen just enough for smooth operation my highest EGTs on Cyl 1 & 4 is around 1580. I have found it loves to run right around 1500-1520 very smooth with fuel flow right at 9.5gph, but the POH has no guidance as to acceptable range(the POH doesn't even reference EGT ranges, even though it had a single probe). The spread is quite a lot, but from reading that is normal on carbureted engines. I guess my question is should I be fine running based on engine feel or pay any attention to specific EGT ranges?
  16. I got the same today also. I talked to them and ordered parts last week, so I am guessing it is due to the holiday today.
  17. That is exactly what mine looked like and was a huge pile of junk. Anything to get rid of that inconsistent clamping bale. The Steve's is just a cotter pin and rotate off, easy to clean/lube the oring.
  18. My 63C gascolator was a huge pain to seal with both Lasar gasket and even just testing with a homemade cork gasket. We replaced the whole thing with a Steve's gascolator and no longer have any issues. Much better design and looks pretty too.
  19. The advantage there is you can get a 65in TV for $300 now, instead of $10,000+ for aviation GPS/NAV/COM units.
  20. Bevan did a great job repairing my KX155 when it had issues. I will send my 430W to them if it needs it some day. Based on how many units are out there and being dumped in working order, I suspect parts will be available for quite some time. Just like the Mooney parts that are no longer in production but somehow we stay flying. That said, eventually I will swap out to something else, the IFD440 seems to be the ticket unless you were already planning a panel update and go for something like a 355/650/750.
  21. As others have said, a heated hanger the night before you depart or at least a few hours before departing will help a ton. Not just for the engine, but keeping any frozen moisture off of surfaces. I have paid around ~$100/ni at Colorado airports. Most heat to around 50deg. If you have an engine heater, carry a long extension cord just incase. Really watch winds aloft along your planned and alternate routes. Easy to do in foreflight weather page of an airport. Not only winds aloft, but check the actual winds through the passes. Colorado offers a number of AWOS stations in the passes, you can call them up and listen before getting in the air. Anything over 25-30kt starts getting pretty dicey. https://www.codot.gov/programs/aeronautics/mtnawos
  22. It very well could be that when it was adjusted last to correct some slop in the nose gear, it threw the rest out of wack. Makes a lot of sense. It flew significantly faster before that was adjusted a few years back. Good place to start. Just walked through the parts manual and noted a few bolts/bushings I know were sloppy when we had it up on jacks. I will see about ordering those and a few others when I have another closer look at it, even if just for piece of mind and to tighten it up once done adjusting everything. Looks like Lasar has the majority in stock.
  23. We thought this could be part of the problem too. There is some play in the bushings at a few places, not sure how much is acceptable.
  24. Also if I am reading the manual correctly, it might mean the nose gear pre-load is set incorrectly and probably forcing the main gear to not hit their full retract before the nose is all the way up.
  25. Alright so it sounds like the sag is a symptom of incorrect preload. So even though the preload is set within torque spec range(and not collapsing) it still can be adjusted more to bring things up. In this case it may be that the preload is set too high. Which reading the manual another symptom of that is excess force needed on the last 1-2in of Johnson bar travel to the down lock position, which I absolutely have. Locking it down is difficult, especially on jacks. All things being equal it sounds like adjust everything so it is even and looks correct, then make fine adjustments to preload until all gears are within spec but not too high to start moving things down again.
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