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Passed my instrument rating checkride yesterday after lots of study and practice. It would not have been possible without the selfless safetly piloting, mentoring, and IFR kibitzing received from 3 members of our forum: Seth Myers, Alex Gertsen, and Chuck Swim. For months now I have been wholly focused on practicing IFR procedures, it's gonna be fun to be able to look out the window again best Tim

Well Todd, you've had a lot of great advice here. Consider this, I have a 158 kt, 50 year old E model. I suppose the panel which is ready for 2020 (GTN750 + GDL88) has traffic, weather, Stormscope, STEC50 A/P, speed brakes, bladders, PFS tuned exaust, AOA, manual gear, hydraulic flaps, dual LED landing lights, 201 windshield and cowl, EDM 930, Scimitar prop... would be more modern than 98% of the Js flying today. So... make a list of what is most important to you but do not close your mind re model - C,E,F,J - a great many Mooneys have been upgraded meaning there's a great deal of overlap and you'll want to consider the merits of each individual airplane which will be more important than what the plane was like out the factory door. (If you're not in a rush, I'm an old man, who knows when Nancy will be putting my E on the market.)

Hello all! We have successfully installed the new 4.0 version of the forum software. Some things are still working in the background to complete the migration and this might even take a couple days. Some notes: 1) We seem to have lost the home page layout. I will look into getting this restored but it might cost some $$$ to get a developer in to do it. 2) Usernames seem to now be case sensitive. I always logged in as Mooniac58 and could not login until I realized my official username was "mooniac58" in all lowercase. If you can't login - this is likely a problem. 3) I am still working on upgrading Tapatalk to work with 4.0 so this could be a day or two as well. If you see anything else please let me know. Thanks!

Welcome , I think your price point is telling you look for the E a nice 60k J is a hard to find unless you want to do some work. A 60k E would be a nice airplane. I love the manual gear it's like second nature very easy to operate and pretty bulletproof. As for Vegas we have flown from Nor Cal thru the southern sierras with no problems. Real speed is relative since you won't likely be pushing your engine as hard as it can go most folks find the sweet spot and from all the tails I have read the difference in TAS is at most 10 KTS between the early birds. If you need a bit more space then an F is great and still well within your price range.

Almost any 4 cylinder Mooney will get you withing spitting distance of 150kts (+/-10kts) it's pretty subjective as they will very depending on weight, prop installation and rigging. I met a J owner at KANP a few weeks back that was having his employees paint his plane out on the tarmac (he owns a boat restoration business). I was impressed at how well they were putting paint on his plane and we got to talking. He owned an E for 12 years. I commented that he must really love his J. He said that it was a nice airplane, but that it was 10kts slower and didn't get off the runway or climb as well as the E. The J had a 3 bladed McCauley. Manual gear can be a challenge at first. Some dislike it. I would say my guess is that of the folks who have real world experience with both, more prefer it than hate it. That's the camp I'm in. People tend to be religious about it one way or the other. Many points of failure are eliminated with manual gear. The difference in block speed between an A, B, C, E, F and J is likely under 10kts but there are outliers on both ends that might do a little better or worse. On a 500NM trip the difference in arrival times will be counted in minutes not hours. I'd shop avionics, condition, cosmetics, and usefull load more than speed. At the end of the day, those qualities will determine how much airplane you get for the money, not an extra 6kts.

I would say plan on spending your $60k and either get a nicely equipped and highly modded E, or a decent stock J. A $30k C or E will leave you wanting more and much of what you will want isn't even available anymore. Hold out for an E with an updated 6 pack panel, good radios, 201 windshield and different cowl, or just get a clean stock J. Both of these will give you the speed you want and be reasonable for basic instrument flying.

Yesterdays flight was from Montrose CO to Georgetown TX. 700 miles in 4.2 hours. There was some beautiful scenery on the trip. Very rugged mountains and some fogged in valleys. And it is odd to be at 17,000 and see a mountain top only a few thousand feet below you. The trip was largely uneventful, except I lost my vacuum pump 10 minutes from landing. It made me glad I had the Aspen as primary!

Because the Mooney fuel system is not gravity fed. You want to do everything you can to ensure continuity of fuel flow. You don't want to have fuel stop flowing. And because the POH says so.

CLICK HERE for the September Issue of THE MOONEY FLYER. In This Issue: If They Had Only Waited a Few Hours To Go Around or NOT Go Around Nine of the Craziest Airports in the World Best Time Ever Mooney Tale to Bryce Canyon ADS-B FIS DataLink Base to Final Wind Damage at Chandler Aviation Plus Upcoming Fly-Ins, Ask The Top Gun, Have You Heard and more. Fly Fast, Fly Safe Phil & Jim

Obviously as many opinions here as Mooney owners. Here's my own unique combination of reason and emotion: Being a CB and new pilot, I bought a C even though I could afford a decent J. The C was the least costly and the "entry level" plane, which seemed appropriate given my low experience level. In retrospect, I would have done just fine with an E, F, G, or J from a piloting standpoint. The only downsides to the E and F relative to the C are the extra 4k or so at overhaul and trickier hot starts. In return you get a bit of extra speed and no carb ice worries. You may even get some of that 4K back on fuel by running LOP. The operating cost difference is probably even less for you, given your A&P credentials. The extra rear seat space in the F or J would be nice to have even though I don't need it right now. But I now love the unique manual gear and hydraulic flaps on the old planes with their simplicity and relative lack of maintenance issues (CB austerity). In retrospect, I wouldn't hesitate to get a nice E or F with the manual gear - they are the best bargains in my view if you can find one (same with really nice Cs for that matter). These will exist at your price point. An F with manual gear, the key speed mods, and an updated panel would be my perfect plane in this regard. Instead I've put a thoroughly modern panel into my C - a decision that makes no economic sense. But I love the plane and want to become a serious IFR pilot in it. Basically, buy an old Mooney from an idiot like me who dumps a bunch of unrecoverable money into it, planning to have it forever, and then has to sell it.

We all die sometime so nothing to be afraid of. I just don't want to feel like a fool when I do it.

many C, E & F models come with modern panels [updated c. 1966] and electric gear and flaps [optional in mid-60's, standard starting in 68 or 69]. My 1970 C has all of these, plus the cool throttle quadrant. A bonus to the original "modern" panel vs. redone panel is that I have 12 instruments in a slight curve [including 2 VOR heads], while the redone panels have less, all in nice straight lines.

Congrats, you will wonder how you did without the rating. I file every time I fly and feel naked outside the system. It is particularly comforting around Bravo airspace and knowing that you are ATC's first priority.

If its like most other King products of that era it has a gas discharge display that plugs into a socket. Sometimes the socket contacts need cleaning. There is also a HV power supply that runs at around 200VDC that occasionally needs a new transistor and capacitor.

$25/night is a whole lot less than a night in an emergency room. I am not judging you here, but reaffirming a position not to validate a risk you are considering taking when it can be avoided, which I think is what you are asking us to do. Albeit a small risk, it can be mitigated by having it fixed before further flight. I would bet there is a GA a$p on a field that would charge 25/night that can fix you up. Heck, he may enjoy working on a real airplane instead of a spam can

Leaving KORL yesterday there was a Piper meridian in front of me and we were waiting for releases from RWY 7. KMCO was quite busy according to the tower. Once he went I was right after him. While being vectored out there must have been a half dozen 737s flying in over the top of me going to KMCO. My 10 minute wait for release was nothing compared to a buddy of mine who drove to Florida from New Orleans this weekend and on his way back the traffic was horrendous. I love flying

500 to 1000ft? Holy Shitman! One should be able to do a full break stall without loosing 500ft. My take on boost pumps is this. My experience is that they are fragile. We have had a few rebuilt over the years. I say with confidence that they rarely go 200hrs of actual operation (not tach time) without needing attention, often quite a bit less. I prefer to confine my use of the pump to the times that I really need it. It is tested at the beginning of each flight during start up. If I'm going out of a short strip, with trees at the end then I use it on take off. On a 7500ft runway were I'm 1200'AGL by the time I'm over the departure end not so much.

Not if "mama" is your actual mother [emoji1]

Mr Jerry's C looks nice!!! -Matt

Hi Todd!! Welcome! You will get many opinions with a question like that. I think a J is nice because it has all the nice features that have been refined continually since 1960. That said, if you don't need the leg room for your back seaters, I'd look at an E. A J for 60k might be a little rough where the same price could find a nice modified E that will be nicer than the J and possibly faster. My E will true out at 158kts at 9500 at 10gph. It's a work in progress but I don't ever see a reason for a J. With as much time invested as I have, the difference is not worth it to me. The hot starts require technique only, where the carbed C will start anywhere & anytime. I don't think a C will be limited by the altitude in the Vegas area. The E should out climb the C. Maintenance might be a bit more on an older airframe, due to the age, belly panels, and Cowling removal. I really love the concept of the E. It can be as light as the C with more power. All in all, I'd Stay away from a 60k J and stay away from a 30k C/E. There was a recent post with a great looking good value mooney here. I'll find it and connect the dots. Good Luck!! -Matt

Took the collar off this morning and mic'ed the distance's on either side. One side had 0.153" and the other was 0.185". Flipped the collar over and the plumb line was centered on the axle. Test flew it and it's a whole lot better. It still has a little twitchiness, but it's not looking for the exit.. I wonder if moving the center of the axle 0.05" behind the plumb line will make it better. M20Doc, it seems like there is some variation in the collar's, what is a good value to shoot for? Thanks to all! Rod

Thanks for the advice, all- i'm going to call rocket and LASAR (home field (coast) advantage) first thing in the AM and try to get this doped out. With a little luck I can find whatever cable I'm looking for and have it overnighted... I'm supposed to be taking a trip this coming weekend and I'd much rather make a 2hr flight than a 12 hour drive... Either way, I'll post what I find out about the cable. Thanks!

Don't remove paint with sandpaper...smooth paint imperfections with sandpaper, preferably wet sanding with very fine grit. The panel has a coating of alclad and sanding the metal will breach it. Mask it and scrub it gently with a scotch brite pad. After that you have 2 choices: 1) Prime over what's left of the old paint. Try to fill imperfections with several coats of primer, wet sanding in between (1000 to 2000 grit). Plan on 2 top coats with wet sanding in between to smooth out imperfections. 2) Chemical strip down to bare metal, etch, alodine, prime and paint. I'd choose #1 on a 20 year old paint job...

Summarizing: 1) tough to get started without the pump 2) increased risk flying without the pump 3) possible insurance issue by departing with known maintenance issue 4) having a mechanic can help in a few ways... - communicating with the FSDO for a permit to fly without - swapping out a pump - reviewing your installation of the pump 5) Open area at the end of the runway is better than trees and buildings 6) all the additional risk is better when you are young, when you are older, married and have kids, the risk becomes too much especially when the trees are many and large...I 7) high nose up attitude is more taxing on the pump. FP is lower with high attitudes. 8) low nose up attitude leaves you close to the ground longer did I miss anything? best regards, -a-

Still waiting to hear from Tapatalk support on this. Their system said 3 days and with the holiday it could still be a couple days until I get assistance.

I think that some FSDOs would issue a permit without much hassle provided a mechanic verifies that the failure is contained to the pump and is not a symptom of something like corrosion from having sat for 2 months with water in the fuel system.

i did .6 hours then landed . and we got gas then did .6 more .

Thanks. I'll get the updated firmware. I knew it wouldn't be long before updates were made since there was so much interest. I bet before too long, they will find the addon hardware and get ahrs working.

When we have questions like this, we think of the phrase "Working backwards from the NTSB investigation..." or "The pilot elected to... despite knowing..." Even though the risk of a failure may be small, the consequences of a failure in this case could be catastrophic. Our risk tolerance would prevent us from flying with this known airworthiness deficiency.

I enjoy the "I do it because the POH says so" crowd. Never-mind that experience and trial over decades determines that change is not only warranted, but done. You all need to ask "why this way"...at least once and a while. Get out of the missionary position once a week. You might not just find that something is not only safe, but practical and dare I say it...fun.

Ned, I sometimes experience the missing 'go to first unread part'... there is a handy new blue line that marks the first unread post when you get there. i am still missing the post numbers that are helpful for identifying how deep in the thread you are. best regards, -a-

Exciting, while exiting...the runway

I believe the previous version had reputations too - you just had to go to a members profile to see it. I believe this comes from people "liking" your content, etc.

http://donmaxwell.com/publications/MAPA_TEXT/M20-202 - Eight-Second Ride/EIGHT_SECOND_RIDE.HTM

My airplane has stigmata. I too have oil mist on the windshield and I know where it comes from. It comes from a rivet on my upper cowling just aft of the prop and on the right side above cylinder #1. Here's where it gets weird... When you take the cowling off and flip it over, it's bone dry. Inspection of my prop hub always reveals it to be dry. The same is true for my front crank seal. No oil in places you would expect. Where I do have a known leak is the number 2 cylinder base gasket. It obviously blows out on the top towards the prop. This has to be where my windshield oil is coming from, but the real mystery is how does it get from the base of number 2, to the rivet above number 1 without a trace??? It is an annoyance and that's all. The amount of oil loss isn't even easily measured. To me, its not worth pulling the jug for. I have come to accept that my airplane weeps due to my ham fisted flying, bone head flying skills. To which I tell her- "Suck it up Buttercup!! I pay the bills around here!!"

From: https://www.faa.gov/regulations_policies/handbooks_manuals/aircraft/amt_airframe_handbook/media/ama_ch14.pdf Pump Feed Systems Low- and mid-wing single reciprocating engine aircraft cannot utilize gravity-feed fuel systems because the fuel tanks are not located above the engine. Instead, one or more pumps are used to move the fuel from the tanks to the engine. A common fuel system of this type is shown in Figure 14-14. Each tank has a line from the screened outlet to a selector valve. However, fuel cannot be drawn from both tanks simultaneously; if the fuel is depleted in one tank, the pump would draw air from that tank instead of fuel from the full tank.

You taxied onto the grass around the other planes? wow, just wow.... I hope you were joking...

Tony, I was one of those Mooniacs. It was a pleasure meeting you! Regards, Frank

Looks good..We took a trip to NH seacoast back in June/July. There were lots and lots of bicycles riding A1A along the coast. As we were stuck in the rental car I had mentioned to my other half I wish we could have brought our bikes. We usually travel as just the two of us. Keeping the backseat out for the extra room (for bikes) would be great. I would love to ride my new Fuji Transonic along the coast of Maine and New Hampshire. BBQ grill cover idea is a great idea as well.

Nice Tony. I do almost just like that quite often. I see you must be a performance biker too with some nice Zipp 808's. One thing I do that I highly recommend. I got some BBQ covers (cheap from walmart), and I wrap them around the bikes, and hold with a cinch strap. Takes just a moment but what that does is it allows me to slide the bikes into the back without any worry that grease from the chains or scuff from the back tires will rub off ont he upholstry while inside the plane. Very much worth the extra step. Another small step I often take is to remove the pedals because there too they go in very easily if they don't have that horizontal platform to catch on. I travel with road bikes, mtn bikes, my tt bike, all on various occasions. One thing I have enjoyed a few times is to fly to a far away tt, ride my bike out of the airport gate to the tt as a warm up, then ride back and fly home. Two hobbies in less than the time of one. Erik

I am one of those [web] developers of whom you speak. I could be convinced to fix the homepage for not $ since I already live here.

thats just peeling paint due to either bad prep work or crappy paint. I don't see any corrosion.

looks like normal, old paint to me. Not really corrosion, just old bad paint. Any decent paint shop would not have a problem fixing that. If you want to fix it yourself, use Scotchbrite and lacquer thinner and go to town until it's smooth. Use a decent epoxy primer and good polyurethane for a top coat, or just regular Rustoleum if you just want to protect the metal and make it look better from 5-10 feet away.

There is a significant difference between having a certified WAAS GPS and a non WAAS GPS as relates to doing approaches. In the olden days it was "Dive and Drive" on step-down non precision approaches. You needed to be especially careful with multiple step-downs. Today almost all GPS approaches with WAAS have some form of Glidepath associated them. This is a HUGE benefit of having a certified WAAS receiver and provides much greater safety in doing approaches. Of course lower minimums associated with LPV approaches is another major benefit. In my area here in California 200 foot lower minimums than before make all the difference in being able to get into airports like Watsonville or Tracy or other Valley airports during foggy conditions.

i insulated my fuel line from the firewall to the pump and it calmed down the fuel pressure oscillations. It would vary from 13-20 PSI and it would run unevenly at 12K. I had the 124J integral silicone firesleeve hoses, the extra fire sleeve I believe insulated the fuel line better, and prevented the onset of vapor lock. I also replacd the fuel pump at that time but I think the problem was the hose and the heat.