Joe Larussa Posted July 24, 2022 Report Posted July 24, 2022 Cowl flap rod may not be the proper name, but I’m talking about the threaded rod on both ends that connects to the cowl flaps. When I try to adjust mine so the flaps can be more open there isn’t much thread left. Quote
Guest Posted July 24, 2022 Report Posted July 24, 2022 A length of 1/4” 4130 round rod, a hacksaw and a 1/4-28 thread die and you can make new ones. Clarence Quote
EricJ Posted July 24, 2022 Report Posted July 24, 2022 +1 on making one to size from steel rod stock. I did this recently for the same reason and got my cyl temps balanced a lot better. Quote
Oscar Avalle Posted July 24, 2022 Report Posted July 24, 2022 +1 on making one to size from steel rod stock. I did this recently for the same reason and got my cyl temps balanced a lot better.I did the same with mine. Huge improvement Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Quote
mike_elliott Posted July 24, 2022 Report Posted July 24, 2022 Don't discount making sure the rear baffle seal on a J is sealing completely on the upper cowl. The have a tendency to droop in the middle. Tha will really improve cyl cooling Quote
Joe Larussa Posted July 24, 2022 Author Report Posted July 24, 2022 Looks like Spruce had it for 2..44 a foot. Something to do! Quote
EricJ Posted July 24, 2022 Report Posted July 24, 2022 1 minute ago, Joe Larussa said: Looks like Spruce had it for 2..44 a foot. Something to do! If they're selling 1/4" all-thread rod you can get that in the aviation aisle at Home Despot as well, or even order it from Amazon. Quote
Joe Larussa Posted July 24, 2022 Author Report Posted July 24, 2022 Lol!! All thread would save some pain and suffering. Quote
ArtVandelay Posted July 24, 2022 Report Posted July 24, 2022 Is it possible the flap mechanism is installed incorrectly, IIRC it’s possible to install it backwards. Quote
Joe Larussa Posted July 24, 2022 Author Report Posted July 24, 2022 30 minutes ago, ArtVandelay said: Is it possible the flap mechanism is installed incorrectly, IIRC it’s possible to install it backwards. Anything is possible I guess. I just know if I adjust it out much more I won’t have more than 1/8-3/16 of thread left. Quote
A64Pilot Posted July 25, 2022 Report Posted July 25, 2022 17 hours ago, Joe Larussa said: Lol!! All thread would save some pain and suffering. I doubt in this application it matters, but all thread is very weak. Threads cut with a die are weaker than ones that are rolled too, but average person isn’t equipped to roll threads. https://www.atlanticfasteners.com/cut-vs-rolled-threads/ 1 Quote
Guest Posted July 25, 2022 Report Posted July 25, 2022 16 hours ago, Joe Larussa said: Anything is possible I guess. I just know if I adjust it out much more I won’t have more than 1/8-3/16 of thread left. A general rule of thumb that I learned, is 1.5 times the diameter for minimum engagement. Clarence Quote
EricJ Posted July 25, 2022 Report Posted July 25, 2022 19 hours ago, Joe Larussa said: Anything is possible I guess. I just know if I adjust it out much more I won’t have more than 1/8-3/16 of thread left. The actuator side has a little hole in it where the rod threads in, and the rod is supposed to be visible in that hole. You can use the thread depth in the fitting on the cowl flap side and the excess depth (past the hole) on the actuator side to plan the overall desired length of the rod. 1 Quote
DonMuncy Posted July 25, 2022 Report Posted July 25, 2022 Be careful at Lowes or Home Depot. They generally have only 1/4 x 24 rather than 1/4 x 28 required. 1 Quote
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