MooneyBob Posted July 16, 2014 Report Posted July 16, 2014 So I got my new LED landing light today. Before I start to take everything apart I have one question. Do I need to get to the back of the light ( remove the bottom cowling) in order to swap it or is it possible to do that from the front / outside only? Thanks Quote
1964-M20E Posted July 16, 2014 Report Posted July 16, 2014 I’m not sure how the J works but on the older models you can get to the light form the front depending on how long the wires are. At most you will need to remove the right side cowling cover. There are several small screws the hold a trim ring on the cowling this trim ring holds the light in place. There are a couple of screws on the back that can be used to aim the light but most likely you will not have to deal with those. Quote
Jeev Posted July 16, 2014 Report Posted July 16, 2014 You shouldn't have to remove the cowling. On my 78J all you have to do is remove 6 or so screws on the plexiglass light cover then 3 screws on the retaining ring holding the light bulb in. Should take about 10-15 min doing it the 1st time. What LED light did you get? I have had the Whelin Parmethious (SP?) for about 2 years and love it! A great upgrade, enjoy. Quote
MooneyBob Posted July 16, 2014 Author Report Posted July 16, 2014 Based on my research and other topics I got Whelen PLED461L. My old one works only if I knock on the Plexiglas that I found difficult to do during the flight :-). 1 Quote
Bolter Posted July 16, 2014 Report Posted July 16, 2014 I recently replaced my dead quartz bulb with the Whelen on my M20J without removing the cowling. You must have some dexterity. As said already, there are the outside screws for the lens, which are easily removed. I was able to reach the rear screws through the cowl flap on the right side. This is the dexterity part: * I could not get an angle where I could see and touch the screws at the same time. Look with a flashlight first, learn the lay of the land. * be sure to remove the retaining nuts only and not the aiming nuts. * It is easier to do by removing the cowlings. If you get in a jam or lose the nuts and washers, you have this backup option * Removing and replacing the power leads is similar. It is hard to see and touch at the same time * The LED light has polarity, so if it does not work, reverse the power leads * I found that using a small 1/4" drive ratchet worked best in the small space I love the new light. I leave it on all the time. There is no visible current draw on the ammeter, and the associated electric "hum" in the headset went away. -dan Quote
MooneyBob Posted July 17, 2014 Author Report Posted July 17, 2014 Thanks for the inputs. It's done. It took 15 minutes to swap it. I don't plan to land at night a lot but now I feel a little more comfortable as my old one didn't work every time I did my preflight. Thanks. 1 Quote
cleatus99 Posted October 29, 2014 Report Posted October 29, 2014 Thanks for the inputs. It's done. It took 15 minutes to swap it. Ok I'm currious, only 15minutes? It took me that long to figure out how to take top cowling off.... Then I can't see the light... I took lens and ring off cowling nothing to get at.... So I guess I'll try cowl flap Tommorow after reading this... Quote
Hank Posted October 29, 2014 Report Posted October 29, 2014 Take off the side panels, Cleatus. I lacked either sufficient knowledge or dexterity, so I had to drop the lower cowl to reach everything. Start with the right side panel, if you still can't see/reach everything, take off the left side then gently lower the whole thing to the ground. Only done that one time, don't remember what was involved. Quote
Guest Posted October 30, 2014 Report Posted October 30, 2014 Hank, No side panels on a J, it has a lovely fibreglass cowl. Clarence Quote
cleatus99 Posted October 30, 2014 Report Posted October 30, 2014 Got mine apart last night.... Landing light was RTV glued into the broken/wore out retaining ring... $500+ if Mooney had any.... Harrump..... Quote
dazdandconfused Posted November 1, 2014 Report Posted November 1, 2014 Sorry for the ignorance, but can someone confirm what the stock GE bulb number and what size LED I would need for my 1987 M20J? Without going to the airplane, I can't find this data online anywhere. Quote
Guest Posted November 2, 2014 Report Posted November 2, 2014 Sorry for the ignorance, but can someone confirm what the stock GE bulb number and what size LED I would need for my 1987 M20J? Without going to the airplane, I can't find this data online anywhere. For a 12/14 volt airplane you need a GE 4522, for a 24/28 volt airplane you need a GE 4553. Both are PAR46 bulbs with 250 watts. Clarence Quote
PaulB Posted November 2, 2014 Report Posted November 2, 2014 These GE bulbs are only $34?? That seems too good to be true. Quote
PTK Posted November 2, 2014 Report Posted November 2, 2014 These GE bulbs are only $34?? That seems too good to be true. 19$ !! http://www.bulbamerica.com/products/ge-250w-par46-4522-13v-light-bulb Quote
PTK Posted November 2, 2014 Report Posted November 2, 2014 Has anyone used these? http://www.aeroleds.com/shop/sunspot-46-hx/ They state 4000 lumens but I don't know how that compares to the GE 4522 incandescent bulb. Quote
cliffy Posted November 5, 2014 Report Posted November 5, 2014 Haven't used one but might. Looks like they have a PMA approval and CofC with each light. It will need a Field Approval by your local FSDO to install. They do supply a couple of Field Approvals for reference for your A&P. Not a direct swap without the field approval. Can not be considered a "standard part" for this LED light as there is no "standard part" LED in existence. Here's a;ink to one of the Field Approvals http://www.aeroleds.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/piper-field-approval-2.pdf Quote
MB65E Posted November 5, 2014 Report Posted November 5, 2014 They work great Pete!! They have a letter that comes with the lamp that refrances their PMA as well as manufacturing lot number. -matt Quote
helitim Posted November 5, 2014 Report Posted November 5, 2014 Just got home a few minutes ago from my first true night flying in the J with the PAR 46 Prometheus landing light. What a difference the LED makes! Much better taxi visibility and surprisingly better runway illumination on approach. Definitely money well spent. My co-pilot stated he would be ordering a set for his 182 tomorrow. Tim Quote
PTK Posted November 5, 2014 Report Posted November 5, 2014 They work great Pete!! They have a letter that comes with the lamp that refrances their PMA as well as manufacturing lot number. -matt Hi Matt! Can they just be installed or do they require field approval? I like the pulse function around our busy airspace up here! (Did the bird logo work out? Send me a pic!) Quote
MB65E Posted November 5, 2014 Report Posted November 5, 2014 Worked out Well! I put a pic in my gallery of the yoke. Thanks!!! I'll put some detailed shots up soon. The par 46 28V HX (pulse) is a certified lamp. The non pulse one is not yet... Aero LED figured more people would want the plus function so they finished the paperwork for the HX first. No Field approval required. It's a PMA'd part. -Matt Quote
Seth Posted November 5, 2014 Report Posted November 5, 2014 Has anyone used these? http://www.aeroleds.com/shop/sunspot-46-hx/ They state 4000 lumens but I don't know how that compares to the GE 4522 incandescent bulb. I have two Aero LED 36 size lights, not the 46. I am happy with them. I think they do not throw light quite as far as a regular bulb, but they are much brighter and have a wider beam when closer. For landing purposes, you'll notice it as you are on final - the surface of the runway illuminates but just a bit closer than with the old bulb. The 46 size is better for LED than the 36 size as you have more LED diodes. The Aeroleds are indeed brighter than the Whelens. Each bulb does come with the PMA paperwork. -Seth Quote
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