spaz

If you have the magnetometer installed the wind can be displayed. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

I had the work done by Advanced Aerotech in Greeley, CO. They have a shop in Florida as well as a few others. It was 50 hrs labor and 15AMU out the door after I added on the USB port which is overpriced but nice to have. There was a few first time problems to calibrate the magnetometer but they did not pass through the extra costs to me, which is a nice thing, some other odds and ends that they really took good care of me. I can say I have found my avionics shop, finally. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

The nav HDG to GPSS is a long press to bring up the menu, and two buttons, Options then HDG mode. I believe that Garmin had received feedback from the community and will enable a discrete to this function for panel button control. It's a bit clunky but if you didn't have GPSS before it will really make a change to how you use the autopilot. I've had a century GPSS that this replaced which was right above the altitude Preselect control head. So I really noticed the clunkyness but I'm getting used to it after about 10 hrs of IFR. One thing for your install is to make sure they use the VFR GPS antenna to calibrate the magnetometer. It is a SW bug that it will not calibrate using external GPS feeds like from my 430W. That took a few weeks to resolve, and I think Garmin has added it to the technical instructions for installers. It isn't a problem if you add the extra glare shield antenna. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

I need incremental upgrades and I went with dual GI275 to drive the century 2000 autopilot. No more vacuum and I gained an HSI from a DG. The plan would be to incrementally upgrade to the GFC 500 when the century dies. Then I can gain a yaw damper too. The G5 not driving my functional gpss and altitude preselect enabled legacy autopilot put G5 off the table. The goal was to remove the vacuum gyros which failed me right when the GI 275 came out. The Synthetic vision is a nice toy, but it provides a Velocity vector also, but you can’t just get the velocity vector. The moving map is ok but I prefer the HSI for approaches, the map being good for airspace and ADS-B weather. I kept the airspeed, altitude and VSI only because I’m comfortable with those displays. I could have removed them all and ran off of the 275s alone. I did give up GPSS as a stand-alone and moved to the 275 but it isn’t a very good User Interface to swap modes. I am overall very happy with it and it is truly an incremental upgrade. I hope this helps. Before . After

15k for Dual GI275 and autopilot and heading to a century 2000. This was from some place in Sarasota Florida. I guess they don’t want to do it! edit: 3 weeks to install?!? spaz

Believe it or not my old Navy squadron ended up a 2 Spaz squadron. This what a second previously ordained Spaz arrived for a second tour. We all live in harmony, until the wrong Spaz gets called to carpet, and boy am I glad I was innocent! Spaz

Im in. Spaz

I have noticed that in my 88 J. I attribute to the exhaust manifold getting much more cold air Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Clarence We actually talked about that. It was clear that 600364-003 was an optional part without a quantity specified. There are no shims on the inside top mounts. In my case, if we added another shim to the lower mounts then the bolt would be too short for the minimum thread to extend past the locking bolt. The other option as was to go to a longer mount bolt but the manual didn't allow for a longer bolt which makes sense to me with the amount of room in there. Perhaps mine is an outlier of worst case alignment and fastener stackup. It quite obviously needed a quarter inch of lift to align. I don't even think we could fit even another washer in there though. The top has plenty of room to add additional spacers so we didn't remove any and even need them to take up thread length on the fastener. Have you run across that before, and how have you solved that issue in the past? Mike Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

I was able to remove the lower bolts completely. There was enough side play when the nut removed that the bolt head cleared the footwells. The shock absorber on the firewall side slid free enabling the bolt to slant out and clear. I ended up referencing the DMax article, but didn't order any shims. I was 1/2 inch low at the cowl so I estimated I needed a 1/8 shim on the engine side, IAW with the DMax article. I had a shim like you do in your photo, (1/8 inch) on the bolt head side of the mount, which wasn't doing me any good, as well as on on the engine side. So, long story longer, there was a concern about the stackup by adding another shim, so we removed the firewall side shim and relocated it to the engine side, in the spirit of the "As Required" note on the shims in the IPC. That made the engine rise right at 1/2 an inch at the spinner. Side note, DMax was the shop that hung my motor initially in 2012 so I cant account for the shim shenanigans. I'd have brought it to him if it wasn't halfway across the country. I have a before and after of the spinner but none of the in process. I will admit once you remove the lower bolts, you are all in on this one. Mike

We just did that last week and when the lower bolts are loose there was enough play in there to clear the structure. After moving the shims around to align with the cowl getting the shim holes engine mount holes and the bolt aligned was a bit 'fidgety'. The bolts would have been easier to land if they were tapered. We didn't pull the engine out but did loosen the top mount bolts and supported the engine with a hoist. Mike Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

I failed to get to Easton, but met Steve-65E NC in Leonardtown. Random mooneyspace meeting. nice to meet you Steve.

I have to drop someone off tomorrow morning at Culpeper. I will try to make it to Easton after that.

is it COMANT VOR/LOC/GS (CI-120-400)?

I think the argument should be over spelling...since you want to argue