Stay Warm Engine Saver heated oil dipstick

[Shadow722]

General question, does anyone have advice regarding the engine oil dipstick heaters? Specifically the "Stay Warm" dipstick heater (Aircraft Spruce)? I am looking for something simple in addition to my use of a work light through the cowl flap. I am based in SC & SE NC so harsh temps are relatively rare. Inputs welcome.

Thanks to all, fly safe!

George L. Cowan

N201PV

'77 M20J

#24-0321

[KSMooniac]

I can't imagine a dipstick heater has sufficient mass/surface area to do any meaningful heating.  I'd opt for a stick-on oil pan heater ahead of a dipstick heater since it can heat a much larger area of metal, which should transmit the heat easily to the oil and other parts of the engine.

[Marauder]

General question, does anyone have advice regarding the engine oil dipstick heaters? Specifically the "Stay Warm" dipstick heater (Aircraft Spruce)? I am looking for something simple in addition to my use of a work light through the cowl flap. I am based in SC & SE NC so harsh temps are relatively rare. Inputs welcome.

Thanks to all, fly safe!

George L. Cowan

N201PV

'77 M20J

#24-0321

George -- I have used a similar one on my Ford 8N tractor. Never was really able to warm the engine up very much, even when it was above freezing outside. As Scott suggests, I would look into an EZ heater or just the pad heaters from a Reiff system.

Keep in mind, that as a traveling plane, you may find yourself in colder climates and you may find yourself needing a more capable heater.

[Shadow722]

Than you sir, just looking for variety of options for pre-heating. I concur, an oil pan blanket would probably be one of the better methods. Thanks again,

V/r,

George L. Cowan

[Shadow722]

Ok, thanks much. I will look into the EZ heater. (Currently my engine is getting a look over at DIVCO in Oklahoma for a discovered crank case crack, so I might be in a good position time wise to get a more extensive heater.) All inputs and suggestions welcome!

V/r,

George L. Cowan

N201PV

[meddesign]

careful here, unless you have heated jugs, you risk damage from condensation to the top end.  I recommend   only turning on for 2 hr before flight for the pad heaters.  Numerous anecdotal about trashed engines with all the time pad headers.  They are great for preheat, just not all the time.

[KSMooniac]

If going with a full installed preheat system, I think the Reiff design philosophy with a full band around the base of each cylinder is far superior to the single point plug-style heating element of the Tanis.  I concur that if preheated, an engine should be flown to boil off any moisture in the oil.

[flyingvee201]

I would piss on a sparkplug if I knew it would help!

[rocketman]

I have a Reiff on my 201, Tanis on my Rocket, and the portable Aerotherm I just bought for my Bravo. Give me a few cold months and I'll give you one pilots experience with all three of them.

[larryb]

I just ordered the Reiff Turbo XP this morning. It's more heat than I really need, but I wanted to be capable of doing a faster pre-heat on the road someday, should I need it.

[Shadrach]

My Dad used a heated dipstick for years, I can't speak to its ability to heat the engine, but it did a fine job of melting into the plastic dipstick tube. I'd definitely avoid!

[aaronk25]

I just ordered the Reiff Turbo XP this morning. It's more heat than I really need, but I wanted to be capable of doing a faster pre-heat on the road someday, should I need it.

I had the turbo model and switched back to the standard rieff as the 100w "turbo" cylinder bands kept burning out, but I left mine on 24/7. With the standard 50w bands I haven't had any issues. I think the 100w bands just run to damn hot, but if your only going to do a few hour preheat they will work great just don't run them continuously as they are to much work to install due to using to fish them around the cylinders/baffling.

Nice system though.

[larryb]

I had the turbo model and switched back to the standard rieff as the 100w "turbo" cylinder bands kept burning out, but I left mine on 24/7. With the standard 50w bands I haven't had any issues. I think the 100w bands just run to damn hot, but if your only going to do a few hour preheat they will work great just don't run them continuously as they are to much work to install due to using to fish them around the cylinders/baffling.

Nice system though.

Good to know. I also ordered a cell switch to turn on the night before departure. I had also considered a thermostat with a (removable) probe on the cylinders. That way I could keep it at 80 degrees, or whatever, and not have the rise be dependent on ambient temp. That thermostat would be my own design. Also, I had the idea of a little pig-tail plug-socket with a diode wired into the circuit. The diode would effectively reduce the power of the whole system by 50% by removing half of the AC cycle. I would use that pig-tail if I wanted to leave the system on for a longer time at reduced power.

 

Yes, I know, it's a fair bit of post-engineering on what should be a plug-play solution. But I like to do those sort of things.

[kmyfm20s]

I have the regular Reiff Turbo not the XP, so 50 watt cylinder bands. I had also heard that the 100 watts bands burn out with continuous use. Both the Turbo systems has a thermostat on the oil sump. I only go to the cold for 2 or 3 night at a time so I plan on just leaving it plugged in. If your handy and have an A&P that will sign you off it is fairly straight forward to install yourself.

[Marauder]

I have the Reiff Turbo XP system but do not run it continuously. Instead I use the SwitchBox to turn it on when I need it at my airport. At 32F, the plane is ready within a couple of hours (or sooner). For me, being able to go to an airport other than my own and being able to plug in for a couple of hours or run a small generator to quickly preheat before departure is important.

[scottfromiowa]

Have the EZ heat block heater. Recommend. Do NOT recommend the heated dipstick!!!. The EZ heat has a temp conntrol and will cycle. Not in agreement with the only turn on a couple of hours or else...Agree that heating all the time is not good over time with moisture, but do not agree with only 2 hours or...damage to engine. I call out night before flight and ask the FBO to plug in for me. Oil is at bottom of green on start-up. Not into the absolutes regarding if you don't fly for 5-10 days...fly or...engine damage. There is sitting and there is SITTING...There is running it ALL THE TIME and just for a night when you are going to fly the next day.

Good luck.

[Shadow722]

Thanks to all that replied. I've spoken with my engine shop (Triad at KBUY) and they can put an oil sump heating pad on no problem and affordable. I'll stay away from the dipstick.

Fly safe y'all!

George L. Cowan

N201PV

[phecksel]

Thanks to all that replied. I've spoken with my engine shop (Triad at KBUY) and they can put an oil sump heating pad on no problem and affordable. I'll stay away from the dipstick.

Fly safe y'all!

George L. Cowan

N201PV

The way I operated was result of research based on pure anedotal evidence and speculation... but it made some sense.

 

As soon as I had the plane back in the hangar, unscrewed the dip stick pulled it out far enough so the threaded portion rested on top of the tube, this allowed the retained moisture to vent.

 

Theory is, that retained humidity, now warmed would begin to rust the interal components.  By being completed vented, the engine would equalize to the ambient humidity level, which was quite dry.