Leaderboard

"Life is short" is a term we hear often. When we're young and say the term, I don't think most of us really grasp the concept. Life seems infinite. However---one day you will wakeup and say, "Wait a minute, just yesterday I was 20 years old and everyone around me is older. Where did the last 60 years go?" It happens just that fast. My recommendation? Don't wait too long to go after the things you want. Time waits for no-one.

I outgrew my headset bag and just couldn’t find something that I liked. On a late not whim I went down a Reddit hole and found this beauty. I gotta tell you, if these guys upped their marketing game, they could quadruple their price and still beat the competition. I guess it’s marketed as a range bag. Heavy duty, lots of pockets, one whole side of MOLLEE. Zippers all work well and plenty of room inside to separate “stuff” from your headset. It doesn’t look or feel cheap in any way. In fact it looks like a $250 bag some Insta influencer would market. $35-40 on Amazon. Full size iPads fit with ease. I can squeeze in multiple logbooks, goggles, my clipboard, electronic doodads, emergency radio, snacks, Gerber, and my headset. Exos Tactical Range Bag – Medium Size https://www.amazon.com/Exos-Range-Subdued-Patch-Included/dp/B07BZFLVJB?th=1&psc=1 Even comes in pink leopard if you’re super manly.

Good evening folks - I thought I would share some interesting points about my flight today from Pontiac, Michigan (KPTK) to Philadelphia (KPNE). The weather brief was consistent for the prior few days: A strong low pressure above Maine with dense isobars promising a powerful tailwind for the trip. The specific forecast was about 75 knot tailwind at 15,000. Surface winds were gusty at both departure and arrival. The morning low temperature caught me a little by surprise (12 degrees F), as we had enjoyed milder temperatures so far this winter. Fortunately, the night before I set the SwitchOn to give me 5 hours of engine and cabin pre-heat prior to my planned 9am departure from Pontiac. By now, I've figured out the clothing needed to manage the in-hangar pre-flight and only open the hangar door when the plane is ready to drag outside. (This is my second winter season, but much of last winter had the airplane in the shop for one thing or another.) The arrival at the airport hangar was in bright (cold) sunshine with scattered clouds at 4,000 MSL. Gusty winds were nearly down the east/west runway. I packed the plane with gear I might need in Philadelphia (TKS hand sprayer, 100 foot extension cord for engine heater, tools, etc.) and pulled the plane out with my Sidewinder tug. Or tried to. There was a light coating of snow on the pavement outside the hangar, maybe half an inch, but a dry area for about 10 feet outside the door before the snow layer started. As I pull the plane out, I wait for wing to clear the door then turn the tug to the left to angle towards the taxiway. I got the plane partially out, cleared the wing and started the turn. When the nose wheel hit the snow, I noticed the sidewinder having trouble getting purchase on the snowy nose tire. Then, when the mains hit the snow, enough resistance built up that the sidewinder simply slipped on the nosewheel. Luckily, the tail was clear of the door so that it could be closed. The plane was at a 45-degree angle, so some prop blast would be towards the door, but seemed (and turned out to be) fine. If snow had piled up against the door, obviously I'd be doing some snow shoveling while guessing how the tires would track so that I'd only need to clear the track for the tires. I have a shovel in the hangar and all this dawned on me as I looked at the airplane sitting there at the 45-degree angle. The pavement slopes downward away from the hangar door, so gravity was working for me. Putting the plane back in, up the slope, in snow, may not be possible with the Sidewinder. I remember pulling a club Mooney a long time ago into a hangar with a winch at the back of the hangar. I need to figure this out. The runup, clearance, and take off were normal, albeit "sporty". Once the power was in, I glanced at the airspeed tape on the G1000 and saw 45 knots really quick. Cold and headwind. This plane has the 310hp STC. I push the go-around button before takeoff to set the flight director and prepare for AP engagement at 400 feet AGL. Tower was a little slow to pass me off to Detroit Departure, so I was able to engage AP at 400 feet and was about to select heading when Tower passed me over to Departure. As I was reaching to select Com 2, there was a massive jolt, as if the Fist of God had hammered the top of the airplane. My head (more accurately my Bose headset) hit the ceiling and I was momentarily stunned. Not physiologically, but mentally. You've experienced it: an event that shocks your system and takes a couple of beats for your brain to check in with body systems to assess damage. The Bose crackled a bit, seemingly unhappy with the ceiling impact, but I felt no pain. By the time I wondered about the airplane (a second or two later), my brain registered that the engine had not missed a beat and nothing abnormal was felt in the controls. Before I could think to worry about the structure, the plane was saying "don't worry about me". A few seconds later, I got it together and switched to Departure. Interestingly, other than that jolt, the rest of the climb through 4,000 MSL was fairly mild bumps up to the glass smooth air above the scattered layer. As I climbed, I looked at the seatbelt to cinch it tighter but realized that with the 3-point design, there's not a great way to get much more vertical restraint. Perhaps I can get the lap belt portion tighter. The rest of the climb out to the southeast was uneventful, other than the promising ground speeds that were developing. I filed for 15,000 to get the optimum tailwinds (about 75 knots according to Foreflight) but ATC held me at 9,000 until I cleared Detroit's airspace. Tailwinds were 24 knots at 9,000 feet, but Foreflight said the tailwinds jumped fast a little higher. Sure enough, as I continued the climb tailwinds exploded. By the time I got to 15,000, which happened at about 500 fpm at 120 knots indicated (FLC set to 120) I saw a max of 87 knots of tailwind. Ground speed maxed out at 254 knots. For much of the flight, there was an undercast broken layer and snow showed on the Nexrad display on the MFD. The descent started around Harrisburg and as I headed down at 1,000 fpm the top of the green arc came up and I pegged it there by varying the descent rate. Ground Speed hit 270 knots. The undercast disappeared toward Philadelphia, causing me to forget that there was probably a thermal layer nonetheless where turbulence would start. That happened as I descended through 7,000 feet, and it was pretty rough. ATC wanted expedited descent which I translated to 1200 fpm and speed builds quick into the yellow band. Speed brakes will quickly shave off 10 - 15 knots at a given power and descent rate, and the rest is done with power reductions. Turbulence seemed to exacerbate the tendency to creep into the yellow arc and once I saw the over-speed warning that seems to be triggered about halfway into the yellow arc. Speedbrakes and power management need to be jumped on early. I noticed the left speedbrake would not retract fully (about 1 inch proud of the wing surface) so it would seem some lube is needed. When I looked after landing, it was fully retracted. The arrival into Philadelphia (KPNE) was looking good with one of two crossing runways pretty well lined up with the gusty winds. The Tower cleared me to land from outside of the downwind on the visual approach. Then on the frequency, "Tower, this is Vision Jet XXX, we seem to have had a blowout or something." Tower asked if they could clear the runway and they couldn't. I knew what was coming and it wasn't going to be fun. I was rerouted to the crossing runway and I offered that I'd give it a go. It was a 60-degree crosswind at 17 knots, gusting higher. One of those where your base to final turn overshoots final by a lot. The landing was miserable, the crab and kick out worked OK, but gusts resulted in me plopping it down on the mains, in one of those sinking sensations where the runway is further away from your wheels than you thought when the wing stops flying. The LHS system didn't help much because the gusts interfered with how my mind processed the varying aural heights. The wide runway helped keep the plane from being blown off the downwind side. So, the tailwinds were wonderful, the fastest numbers I've even seen in a plane I've flown. But, there's likely going to be a price to pay at either end of the journey. Ed

OP, I could be mistaken, but are you sort of self teaching yourself the maneuvers? If so, I'd recommend you not try that and get up with a CFI that's solid on his/her commercial maneuvers. One thing I do is separate my chandelles from Lazy 8's because they are very different maneuverers. The chandelle is mechanical, the lazy 8 is art. I'm by no means a master instructor, but in general, they are constantly rushed. Two things right off the bat, many commercial students have a REALLY hard time looking out the window. So much that I just cover everything but the TC. I won't try to teach via Mooneyspace but SLOW DOWN. Airspeed doesnt really matter, but 130mph works well in my F...but so does 120, 125, 135...airspeed isnt really important. The maneuver is about capturing energy, then releasing that energy, and then recapturing it once again. I make students talk out loud at the speed of "one-Mississippi" "Pitch, pitch, bank, SLOW". It takes very little bank input and as your aircraft starts to slow, it will bank all on its own. I disagree with not selecting good reference points - and any DPE will too. Don't force the plane to fit into the reference points. Pick some, fly the maneuver well, and see what the results are. Constantly envision yourself on a skateboard half pipe and where on that half pipe you are. Eyes outside always except a quick glance to make sure you're coordinated (and therefore maximizing the energy transfer). This is a maneuver that takes very little control input. The aircraft is doing what it wants to do if you were not there. Look outside. Feel. Listen. Stay coordinated. Relax & slow. Practice and they'll come naturally and become one of your favorite managers. Oh, slow down.

I am 63 years old. I upgraded my panel because I wanted to fly with the best I could afford for the last part of my flying years. I love it and no regrets.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/avpages/iclothwipes10.php

I installed the 2 new diodes and tested the system for 40 minutes yesterday without the gear alarm sounding. I believe that fixed the problem. We will do more operational checks Monday and then turn it loose for a flight test. I did find a nice mouse nest while I was behind the pilots side wall panel.

I believe it! I wore an exposure suit on a winter crossing once (fully on) and it was so bulky that it made using the travel john an exercise in flood control. There’s a song by a fighter pilot band about wishing for an extra couple inches…

This drawing from the Skybolt catalog shows how the SK40G1 grommets take up the shear load. The top drawing is the 4002-HS grommet Mooney used. The hole has to be larger than the shank to allow the lip that retains the retainer ring to pass through the hole. The SK40G1 has a larger diameter shank and a groove to capture the retainer ring. The hole can be reamed for a tight fit and, since there is no movement, there should be no wear of the hole.

In your POH, in Section VI (Weight and Balance), your Equipment List should show you everything available from the factory and which of those items your airplane has.

You wont see this on the YouTube videos of transatlantic flights, but…. when we had new Diamond twins flown over from Osterland, the ferry pilots had to wear Gumby suits. Most fly with it around the waist, since they are bulky and hot. Given the reclined posture in the DA42 seat, dealing with a full bladder with a half-on Gumby suit was, well, a rather dodgy exercise. Solution? adult diapers. And I’m told that the first time “letting go” into one is really, really difficult since it goes against all training since infancy. Flying, and especially ferry flying, is sometimes not so glamorous. -dan

Yes, and I'll add to that: "get what you want before you retire."

It’s difficult to justifying our flying we’re only on this planet for a short time do, get what you actually want. I’ve got a good friend who was a pilot for 35 years starting worrying about penny’s wife passed he’s worth over 1m and watching sitcoms. Enjoy..

Just how much faster is a J, Missile or Ovation going to get you to your new missions' typical destinations and at what cost delta. Personal property tax, insurance, annuals and direct operating costs will all be higher, so in the end it will boil down to what puts the biggest smile on your face. Only you can determine if that's worth it. My plane was a vintage '65 when I bought it, but now has a new GMA345, GNC355, GNC255, a used GTX327 & a reorganized 6 pack with a GI275 HSI. I don't miss the Narco Mk12s at all and the GNC355 is vastly more user friendly that the GNS 430s & 530s in the rental fleets I flew before buying my Mooney. Life's too short; you worked hard for your $$$ and retirement. Enjoy the fruits of your labor and don't over-analyze it. Blue skies & happy retirement.

There should be a grounding strap from the engine to the airframe in all Mooneys I believe. There certainly is in mine. (Guess I was slow, Mike beat me to it.)

No. Engine is absolutely (should be, anyway!) grounded with a large grounding strap. Bad electrical stuff will happen, if not.

Yeah, as an EE I'm not buying into this guy. I've always used the exhaust. It sure seems like there should be a decent electrical connection to the engine and, hence, the airframe. I'm going to test my plane tomorrow. He could have a bad connection in his exhaust and there could be a bad connection to someone's tie-down ring, for that matter. Without checking you can't say for certain. And, low resistance (<1 ohm) is really not necessary; the idea is charge dissipation. While there may well be a very high voltage (10's of thousands of volts) built up on the aircraft it will rapidly discharge to ground through any reasonable resistance in a second or two.

I'm actually avoiding flying my airplane over NJ at night for the foreseeable future after all this talk about shooting things down and countless pictures/videos of manned civilian aircraft being claimed to be "drones". There may by sightings that pose genuine concern, but there is far more hysteria mixed in with that as well. This is so clearly a regular helicopter that it is shameful to be used for a front page headline about drones. Or in this video 2:28-2:38 it is so blatantly obvious it's an airliner. You can see the nav lights, strobes, and even tail logo light. I tried posting a screenshot but then it looks "like a ufo or drone" but in motion it looks just like an airliner.

For those of you not familiar with SB M20-289A, or those who just haven't gotten around to performing it, here are before/after videos on our 1976 M20F. We've been aware of the issue for a while now, but it was only within the last year that our original installation actually began to have the clearance problem described in the S.B. Ordered the kit from Mooney, and installing the new spacers does make a significant difference. Before: After: Video link https://youtu.be/MqET4p8saMI

I think I've written and deleted a few responses each time I've re-read your post. Do you want a bigger plane, a faster plane, new avionics, or everything? It seems like you want something new, but not set on what that means for you. I agree that buying a plane with avionics done is a cheaper way of doing things, but a) you're buying someone else's choices, and b) you're buying a lot of unknowns with the new plane. I'm in the middle of a full panel overhaul. It's expensive and if I sold the plane right away would probably lose 50% of that expense on the sale. But I'd tell you after doing this it's amazing how many little choices you make along the way that are a reflection of your preferences, priorities, and how you actually fly. What equipment do you select, where does it go (autopilot above the stack, below the stack, off to the side), how your switches get laid out based on your in cockpit flow, etc... From what I know the J will only buy you 10 knots over the C - is that worth it? The Missile should get you 30 knots over the C (and more fuel burn to match) - is that worth it? I know I'm asking questions and not giving any answers, but I hope this helps.

I still have Cleco that fell out of a lightening hole in the rear of C-152 Aerobat wing during my hammerhead turn and jammed up the right aileron. I have a friend that worked for years as an A&P at United's San Francisco maintenance depot. She told me that they found so many tools inside airframes that they instituted a rule that you could never set a tool down on, or in, an airplane. When I volunteered doing maintenance at the museum, the mechanic had us stop work half an hour before quitting time and clean up and put all the tools away. If we were missing a tool, we had to find it before going home. We should have inventoried rags. Someone stuffed rags in the intake of the left engine of the B-25 to prevent FOD from falling down there (the intake is on the top of the cowling) when we were working on it and no one saw it and so it got left in there. When we ran it up, it ran OK, but later the museum owner complained that the left engine wouldn't make takeoff power.

1970 F - but believe this applies to a very wide range of Mooney models. I’ve read every headrest post on MS. There’s definitely some misinformation out there. My interior is getting redone and I really wanted to add headrests to my front seats. My rear reclining seats had them, but they were stuck in the seats. The fronts used to, but for whatever reason the PO covered them over in the 80’s and tossed the headrests. I took some exact measurements, made a cardboard template and went to my childhood happy place - the junkyard. I found a perfect match on a 2014 Nissan Pathfinder S (from the front seats). My interior guy just messaged and said they’re perfect. A little extra Google work and it appears the fronts from a 2013 - 2016 (trim doesn’t matter) will fit. I probably checked 200+ cars…but it was a nice day and I was having a blast. Total cost was $15 ($3 entry fee and $12 cost for a pair of headrests). They’re far better quality than the OEM Mooney and are farther forward which is great for actually using it. As you can see, all four seats had the tubular structure in the seat. You can feel the open tube through the material if you want to examine if your seat already has the tubing.

Good for you for fixing what the prior owner did. I never realized how important headsets are as a safety feature till a 252 takeoff accident documented here on MS likely over 10 years ago. It was an aborted takeoff that resulted in a fatal to one which the report blamed in part on the removal of headrest leading to a broken neck. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Some years ago, my glareshield was in horrible shape and was a glaring eye sore after upgrading the rest of the interior with Hector. I checked out the Ashby and thought it was big downgrade in appearance and functionality. I was about to search for a salvage glareshield but Hector surprised me resurrecting my old one to better than new. Hector sometimes has some used ones if yours can’t be resurrected. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

One thing for everyone who uses travel johns… and this is coming from someone who used them a lot in the USAF during pond crossings, long desert missions, and even on local sorties (we had to stay very hydrated and were in a “greenhouse” cockpit) . If one bag encapsulating a quart of fresh pee is good, then two is better, and three is best. They don’t weigh anything, but there’s a nice selection of gallon freezer ziplocks (not the cheap ones) in my flight bag. Use them.

I resisted any avionics upgrade (other than an ADSB-compliant transponder) for my first 22 1/2 years of ownership and was perfectly happy. But I realized I'd get added performance from a WAAS GPS and decided if I was going to do that I should do some other things at the same time. I really love my IFD 540 and my dual GI-275s. I flew a DME arc on a recent IPC and felt like I was cheating it was so easy, even after I disengaged the autopilot with GPSS. The ability to fly LPV approaches was a real benefit to my upgrade, but it's not so much that I'm able to do more with my plane than I was before, and more about being able to do the same things more easily. Considering my missions can involve long days of flying, I'm probably getting a safety benefit because the flying is less demanding than it used to be. Like you, I thought about buying a faster plane instead of doing an avionics upgrade. I decided I don't need that; my plane gets me where I'm going plenty fast enough. YMMV. Choose additional speed/altitude/engines if that's what floats your boat. If you don't make that choice, an avionics upgrade will definitely make a difference in your flying experience.

If you wanna stop the cowling for moving, and I mean stop it from moving a single millimeter, put the stopper block on the inside of the cowling on the upper part and put a piece of angled aluminum on the edge of the boot cowl and when those two pieces butt into each other it can’t move. Now for the bottom, Lasar sold this mod that was a little strap. it was just above the bottom of the cowling, with a nut plate on it, and you put a hole through that in a screw with a smooth shank on it. And then the entire cowl can’t move a single millimeter. Whenever we did all this work, we filed the back edge of the cowling with about a one and a half millimeter gap. And 10 years later, the paint still isn’t chipped and the gap is the same. The harder you clamp down on the cowling with fixed nut plates and short cam locks, the more it wears the holes. The metal in the fiberglass layup is a piece of .020” aluminum which slows it down, but it doesn’t stop it. The camlock’s job is to keep the cowling flush with the skin. The shear loads have to be absorbed by something made to hold shear loads, and a 3/8 in. Square of aluminum, riveted to the airframe, butting into a piece of fiberglass that’s the same size. It ain’t going nowhere in 1000 hours.

Since you’re not in a hurry, perhaps just wait on the AeroCruze STC. Add someone’s takeoff WAAS navigator (or a new GPS175), and a couple of AC-30-C or G5. You’ll have a fabulous IFR machine for a $20k investment. Do I prefer big glass? Sure, but as long as Ive got a reliable way to get the info I need, I’m good. Frankly I’m a better hand flyer on a traditional 6 pack (albeit digital) than a big glass presentation. I don’t do intentional IMC without an autopilot. That’s a me thing…clearly not hanging you up…but once an affordable 2 axis is approved, that’s a lot of bang for the buck.

Just won an Ebay auction for a D3. Paid $471. I have the necessary center post Ram Mounts from old IPad use. Looking forward to having the Dynan in my plane. An example of something you didn't "know" you needed until you saw a Mooneyspace thread.

Since Anthony isn't commenting on fantastically underused words, I'll do it. An interesting way to describe camlocs!

+1 for Parker. He doesn't only have the best rates but also outstanding support.

A loose connection. I had this on my J

I have a 1970 F model and my strap is on the lower right side from near the footwell to a bolt near where the governor mounts. Pulling the right side cheek cowl reveals it.

I think you have to be honest with WHY you want the upgrade? It sounds like, for 25 years, your set-up has met all of your mission needs. Going forward, what new mission requirements necessitate spending money on new avionics, or a new plane? Hey, if you just think all the glass is 'cool' and 'new' and whatever, that's a perfectly fine reason...don't really need to justify that

Substitute "witches" for drones and "Salem" for New Jersey and you understand.

I have heard about the bed liner issue and have seen the warnings. It’s crazy that you were one of the first victims of the bed liner. Glad to hear you weren’t seriously hurt.

Great seeing what others are doing and why. My travel kit still evolving. I've had near disastrous experiences with passengers in turbulence, averted with a good barf bag. So, those are stashed at every seat along with wipe up microfiber towels and water at each seat. Dramamine is also in my bag and works well for my sensitive passengers (I don't need it). I now interview each passenger to check for sensitive stomachs. I experimented with a travel john recently on a Michigan to Florida (panhandle) non-stop flight and found the travel john midway down to be great (relief). It does not convert to a gel, it's still definitely liquid and the bag filled completely. Good seal. The flight back (5 hours both ways) I made with no travel john usage due to very light fluids before the flight. The travel john is a great range extender (inverse of a refueling tanker, I suppose), as this plane will make it from Detroit to Miami in one shot. I found the 5 hours in the seat to Florida to be very comfortable (more comfortable than a 5-hour drive somewhere), so a long trip is attractive (if it weren't for the bladder). I would not try this with my wife on board or passengers; I'll plan on no longer than 3-hour legs with them. A Mooney-experienced A/P commented once that drinks in the back seat spill and wind up in belly areas, leading to corrosion. He singled out sodas as particularly problematic and suggested only allowing water back there. I have on-board Oxygen which I use over 5,000 feet with the MH pulse controllers. My family has been fine with canulas. Spare AA batteries, blood oxygen tester, no food for me (I typically eat one meal a day). I have a tool kit, can or two of oil with filler spout, and for winter, just added a pump sprayer of TKS, snow brush, plenty of TKS in the on-board tank, plus a 100-foot extension cord for plugging in the engine heater. I've learned to cover the speedbrakes with 2-inch wide red plastic tape (have scissors) to keep the rainwater out of the units. My previous speedbrake intermittent inop problems have disappeared. Cowl covers, tow bar, wheel chock, Ipad, Sentry, spare battery to power ipad and phone, and device cables, headsets for all, flashlights, fuel sampler, handheld radio, tie down rings and rope, spare pen, reading glasses, gloves, are all checklist items either before I leave the house or at the hangar. I've experimented with podcasts on the i-phone but find the ATC muting of the i-phone feed makes podcast listening not really worth it (the iphone does not pause the podcast). In the northern latitudes, especially in winter, the sun stays low on the horizon, and some sort of sunshade is necessary. I use green patches from Sporty's that stick on the windows with static electricity. They work well and are dirt cheap, and better for me than the suction cup plastic shades that articulate. I almost never wear sunglasses, since I find the G1000 display is too dim with glasses (non-polarized). Most of these things were added as I realized I needed/wanted them on a flight. You'll build your kit thru the same process, I expect. On my to-do list is investigating some sort of over-water precaution kit (life vests, etc.) or simply plan on crossing the Great Lakes at a high enough altitude to glide to shore (generally glideable at 15,000). Also, some sort of survival kit for an off-field landing. I'm still weighing the probabilities and what makes sense for my trip profile. Ed

Can't say I'm that super organized, but am still pretty good about remembering what tools I have used when I'm putting them away. I'm still looking for a 10mm socket that's probably in my front lawn somewhere. I hate losing tools! But your exactitude especially makes sense for working on an airplane vice an old Miata.

My holes were perfectly round. In fact, I had to ream them slightly to get the SK40G1 grommets to fit as they are slightly larger than the lip that retains the retainer ring on the 4002-HS grommets. But, my airframe only has 1700 hours on it, so I can see how the holes might wear over time. Also, my cowling has a metal strip embedded in the fiberglass where the holes are. I don’t know if all the cowlings have that. The grommet flange is countersunk into the fiberglass gel coat and there was definitely was some out of round wear evident there. Also, I don’t know how much this would help with the floating receptacles.

I also use Airspeed Insurance through @Parker_Woodruff, insured with Old Republic I think. Rates are reasonable but have increased the last couple of years. There is usually a break at 100 hours Make & Model, and also with Instruments. Some companies will prorate the rest of your policy when you complete the rating, so always ask. The Mooney Flyer has a state-by-state of CFI / CFIIs, check it out. Huntsville is nice, I'm a little further down in Alabama. While I like my local CFII (retired Navy pilot), she's not a Mooney specialist but is very good as you'd expect from a long-term military pilot. Brownaero@gmail.com for information.

I go through Parker @Parker_Woodruff at Airspeed. I am insured with Star.

Weird. I would have expected a 3/8” in there.

I know not what others may say but as for me, give me LEMO or give me death!

The newer headsets, specifically the a30’s take batteries and can be used with an adapter in any plane. I prefer not having to worry about batteries, but noise cancelling headsets are a second choice to clarity aloft. They don’t require batteries and I find them much more comfortable. that being said, I am in the smaller minority, most seem to prefer the noise cancelling headsets. I do like the Bose a30’s, but prefer the clarity aloft.

@NickG @M20S Driver @Bolter well clearly these “needles” exist in the haystack! Your airplanes would all be perfect! Thanks for sharing. It helps keep me optimistic as I continue to look. My next new airplane is out there, I just have to find her.

Most of the value in getting an instrument rating comes from developing the ability to easily and precisely control the airplane with less and less cognitive power, such that you have more and more cognitive power to tend to other things: reading charts, programming navigation, obtaining weather, interacting with ATC, scanning for traffic, etc. Pilots who obtain an instrument rating get fairly good at this, at least at the time of their check ride (the skills lapse if you don't use them). These skills certainly make one a better and safer pilot, but there are other ways to develop them without getting an instrument rating of course - mostly just a lot of cross-country flying with flight following. The rating itself may not have much value to any particular individual - especially if they do most of their flying in a part of the country where the weather is not conducive to flying a piston single regardless of having the rating.

you might consider hiring somebody who has done this a lot, maybe do the 201 windshield swap

Fill with helium and get a useful load increase (Wonder if landings bounce more, though)

Mooney used door seals manufactured by Brown Aircraft https://www.brownaircraft.com/Default.asp The original foam-filled BA-189-139 tended to flatten and is no longer manufactured. The replacement is T-9088. Attach with 3M yellow weatherstrip adhesive.