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New 6 pack instrument cluster for vintage Mooney's


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Hi Scott,

They are inside the cabin behind the pilot and copilot seats about 6 inches forward of the spar. After removing the screws, you'll need a little patience to finess them out of the hole. They don't just fall out or easily go back in.

David

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mmmmOK. looked for them when we re-did interior/side windows and carpet and did not see them Paul at weep no more said he re-calibrated full and empty position on right tank during reseal as they were not reading correctly the right tank gauge had large oscillations pre tank seal. we shall see how it performs post seal/adjustment not to optimistic on result...

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OK, I NEED SOME CLARIFICATION....I AM SEEING "FUEL SENDERS ON EBAY THAT LOOK LIKE THE WHOLE FLOAT ASSEMBLY. IS THE FUEL SENDER INTEGRAL IN THE WHOLE FLOAT ASSEMBLY? THERE ARE NO WIRES ON THE TANK SIDE....WHERE ARE WIRES FROM THE FLOAT/SENDER? THE FLOAT HAS HOLES FOR FIVE SCREWS FROM TANK SIDE. NOT GETTING HOW THE FLOAT/SENDER GETS INFO BACK TO GAUGE WHERE ARE WIRES THAT CONNECT IN CABIN FROM FLOAT/SENDER? ARE THE EBAY UNITS INDEED THE FUEL SENDER?...ISN'T THAT IN TANK?

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Its all one piece, the mounting plate, arm, float, and variable resistor. I have saw some different versions from Mooney. Some have the sender mounted right up next the mounting plate and others have it mounted 6 inches or so out from the mounting plate.

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O.K. got it. The wire is only inside the cabin connecting to the nut on the sender and picking up the electrical through the connection and feeding to gauge....Thought there would be a wire on the float/sender combo unit. Thanks for getting me "there" on this everybody.

bottom line on gauge reading failure/flakyness...could be

1. Sender/float

2. wire to gauge

3. Gauge

Thanks,

Scott

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Are those gauges the same size as the original cluster?  I would like to change mine, but do not have the room in panel to increase the size.  I just did a complete panel and instrument upgrade and now the last few tasks are getting the generator to alternator conversion and then making new interior side panels and figuring out what I am going to do about the window plastics to clean them up.  Any insight from anyone on these projects would be awesome. :)  

 

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Are those gauges the same size as the original cluster?  I would like to change mine, but do not have the room in panel to increase the size.  I just did a complete panel and instrument upgrade and now the last few tasks are getting the generator to alternator conversion and then making new interior side panels and figuring out what I am going to do about the window plastics to clean them up.  Any insight from anyone on these projects would be awesome. :)

Look through archive posts. A LOT of information there on areas you are asking about...Then post specific questions after checking them out.

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Are those gauges the same size as the original cluster?  I would like to change mine, but do not have the room in panel to increase the size.  I just did a complete panel and instrument upgrade and now the last few tasks are getting the generator to alternator conversion and then making new interior side panels and figuring out what I am going to do about the window plastics to clean them up.  Any insight from anyone on these projects would be awesome. :)  

 

Do your gauges work?  If so, I wouldn't mess with them.  I believe they fit in the same space, but I don't think it's "plug and play."  Your panel looks very nice, btw.

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Hi Avncwby,

 I'll get some measurements for you. I believe the face of the cluster is nearly identical to the original cluster but the mounting flange is different and requires some more room on the backside of the panel for clearance and for attaching hardware. I'll post some pictures when I get a chance for everyone to see the differences.

 David

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  • 2 weeks later...

Scott,

I just replaced my complete cluster with the EI MVP-50P, When I did I also upgraded my fuel probes to the magnetic pick up style tat sem to have less issues then the old resistant type. that being the case I have 2 sets (my originals and spares for troubleshooting my constant fuel quanity indication issues) both sets seem to work properly, the guages were the major issue. they are out of a 62 M20C. if you are interested in them contact me @ mooney78959@gmail.com

 

Brian

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  • 7 months later...

Hi,

I would appreciate a copy of the 337 for the instrument cluster.  Hopefully, you will have it in the .pdf format as that does not require as much bandwidth as the jpg format and usually is easier to read and print.

Please email directly if you can.  My spam blocker will catch it, but I check the spam blocker generally more than once a day.

Thank you.

Larry Wheelock, 1965 M20C, A&P/IA, XS56

lawheelock@earthlink.net

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  • 3 weeks later...

Absolutely. Don't get me wrong, I love your panel. Hell, I opted to have my engine cluster overhauled for $500 instead of having a $5500 EDM930 installed. But I'm also sending my plane to Aero Comfort next month for a $10k interior. So I'm picking where I speed my dollars, I just have problems with not doing something because you'll not recoup the investment. If homeowners took that approach, no one would ever have pools installed.

 

Who did the overhaule on your cluster?

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you just need to select your inflight music to coordinate to the bouncing...kind of like the old boom box/tape deck analog pulses...

seriously I am a fuel stick fuel computer guy too my tanks do read empty accurately...all I need. yes, it is annoying. i have not heard of a fix...

 

What is "in flight music"?

 

I dip my tanks on the ground, fill as needed, watch the needles move and land/refill based on my watch and the clock in the yoke. I find them to be more accurate than watching the needle move.

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Sabremech, do these fuel gauges use the original fuel senders inside the tanks or did you install new ones, dedicated to the Mitchell gauges? Both my tanks were resealed during the last two years, but nothing changed wrt my fuel gauges being themselves - indicating all over the place. apparently, the instruments shop did have a look at my senders and even tried to calibrate them, but without success. It seems that the problem lies with the sender units and I understand that they are sealed units which can't be opened up and fixed?

Although I do have a very accurately calibrated dipstick and a just as accurate fuel flow on my JPI EDM700, I find it extremely annoying to have fuel gauges that are not working properly.

Even though highly unlikely, but should an inflight leak occur, I will have no way to determine this.

When I had a EDM 930 installed in 2012 the sender units were removed from the wings and sent to Lock Haven PA where they were rebuilt. The rheostat is electro-mechanical and gets out of calibration. Even so, the indicated fuel level is not useful until the quantity is down 10 gallons or so. The sensor float is pinned to the roof of the tank until that point due to the dihedral of the wing and the short arm on the float. But... once the tank is down to 10 or 12 gallons the quantity is very accurate.

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What is "in flight music"?

 

I dip my tanks on the ground, fill as needed, watch the needles move and land/refill based on my watch and the clock in the yoke. I find them to be more accurate than watching the needle move.

Hank, it was a joke. My fuel needles bounce...so my bad joke was to play music that has a beat matching the swing of the needles on the OEM gauges.

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Anybody ever remove the individual Garwin gauges from the six pack? I had found a "nicer faced" pair of fuel quantity gauges (in a six pack) and thought I could have my A&P "pop" them in replacing the old that are only two remaining gauges in my plane. They are still in the six pack. He said NOT a quick removal replacement. Just wondering if anyone knew what is involved/step by step to remove without damaging them...

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