Windows film

[redbaron1982]

Hi all, I was wondering if anyone has experience with applying films to the windows of the aircraft to reduce the amount of heat that enters the cabin through sun radiation.

I'm talking about the 3M films that can be used in your home windows to improve energy efficiency.

Here in Texas, on summer, without AC is quite uncomfortable, and I thought this could be a good option to reduce a few dergees the temperature inside the cabin.

Does anyone has experience with this? Is that something than can be done without any special FAA authorization?

[LANCECASPER]

People have used the cling tint:

https://mooneyspace.com/search/?q=Cling&quick=1

I wouldn’t put the traditional tint on the windows. The theory is that the heat stays in the plexiglass and compromises its strength. There are some IAs that won’t sign off on an annual until it is removed.

[Will.iam]

+1 on the cling window tint. I picked up a roll at lowes and with a little soapy water and the edge of a credit card, i applied it to the rear windows and it doesn’t look half bad if i say so myself. Will attach a pic after i go over to the hanger latter today. And the beauty is if it ever bubbles or fades i can easily remove it and apply another section as i had enough left over for 2 application and at $34 a roll in aviation dollars that is practically free!

[Andy95W]

Richard ( @Skates97) has the best write up around.

https://intothesky.com/window-tinting/

[redbaron1982]

Thanks all for the replies. I was wondering, is it possible to put the film on the outside? I think for a thermal point of view should be better, it blocks the heat even before it gets too the plexiglass. Some of the 3M film are designed for exterior use. 

[jaylw314]

3 hours ago, Will.iam said:

+1 on the cling window tint. I picked up a roll at lowes and with a little soapy water and the edge of a credit card, i applied it to the rear windows and it doesn’t look half bad if i say so myself. Will attach a pic after i go over to the hanger latter today. And the beauty is if it ever bubbles or fades i can easily remove it and apply another section as i had enough left over for 2 application and at $34 a roll in aviation dollars that is practically free!

Did you have any problems with scalloping or bunching at the edges?  Traditional tint needs to be fitted to windows with compound curves and they typically do this by hitting it with a heat gun while laying on the window--which obviously doesn't work with acrylic windows.  Cling film tends to be thicker, so I was worried about the edges

[jaylw314]

24 minutes ago, philip_g said:

I did for sure.

@Skates97 Had an easier time of it since he didn't tint the entire forward side windows, which have a nasty curve, and only tinted the top of the windshield (although I wouldn't do the whole windshield anyways).  I'd probably do the rear windows in 20% and the front windows in 50%.  The optical clarity of the thinner adhesive window tint is better for sure

Edited December 24, 2021 by jaylw314

[EricJ]

1 hour ago, redbaron1982 said:

Thanks all for the replies. I was wondering, is it possible to put the film on the outside? I think for a thermal point of view should be better, it blocks the heat even before it gets too the plexiglass. Some of the 3M film are designed for exterior use. 

Plan for what happens when it comes off, because it will.

So, personally, I wouldn't.

 

[Will.iam]

1 hour ago, jaylw314 said:

Did you have any problems with scalloping or bunching at the edges?  Traditional tint needs to be fitted to windows with compound curves and they typically do this by hitting it with a heat gun while laying on the window--which obviously doesn't work with acrylic windows.  Cling film tends to be thicker, so I was worried about the edges

Not with a little soapy water spray. It allows you to slide the film into position then use the credit card to push bubbles up out the top and catch the soapy water with a rag. Also put tint with backing facing you on outside and use the credit card trace the edge of the windowsill. Then use scissors to cut on the crease  made by the credit card from tracing the window. Works great for sizing the tint to the inside. I have noticed the cling film is much thicker than autotint and thus less prone to wrinkle. Seems to stretch a little too. 
i also tinted the top edge of the forward windscreen but free hand cut the bottom part and did not get it straight. Will try again later but not a priority right now. 

[Will.iam]

Hey -a- can you fix my inverted pics? 
thanks. 

[Skates97]

1 hour ago, jaylw314 said:

@Skates97 Had an easier time of it since he didn't tint the entire forward side windows, which have a nasty curve, and only tinted the top of the windshield (although I wouldn't do the whole windshield anyways).  I'd probably do the rear windows in 20% and the front windows in 50%.  The optical clarity of the thinner adhesive window tint is better for sure

I did tint the front windows but decided to take it off because it does affect the clarity a little. They were easy. I just have some scrap squares and move them around on the front windows when needed. The hardest part is doing the brow on the windshield, it is curved and you are working against gravity. 

Do not use any tint that has adhesive, just the static cling. To my knowledge all the ones with adhesive specifically say not to use on plexiglass. The static cling holds so well that I can mount gopro suction mounts to it and they don't move, and it leaves no residue when you remove the tint. 

1 hour ago, EricJ said:

Plan for what happens when it comes off, because it will.

So, personally, I wouldn't.

 

If you just use the static cling it is no big deal. Pulls right off when you want and leaves no residue. It is a non-event. I replace it every couple years as it does lose some clarity over time and the grandkids seem to nick it up with their finger nails from time to time. 

54 minutes ago, Will.iam said:

I also tinted the top edge of the forward windscreen but free hand cut the bottom part and did not get it straight. Will try again later but not a priority right now. 

 

Take a piece of string, tape it at the sides across the windshield. Sit inside to see how it looks, then adjust until it is where you want it. Slide a piece of tint under it and lightly trace along the string with a pencil or sharpie and then cut the tint along the line. That will help get it straight instead of lopsided. I have pictures of how to do the windshield brow on my website if the description doesn't make sense. 

[EricJ]

7 minutes ago, Skates97 said:

If you just use the static cling it is no big deal. Pulls right off when you want and leaves no residue. It is a non-event. I replace it every couple years as it does lose some clarity over time and the grandkids seem to nick it up with their finger nails from time to time. 

He was asking about putting it on the outside, which I wouldn't recommend. 

[LANCECASPER]

1 hour ago, Will.iam said:

Not with a little soapy water spray. It allows you to slide the film into position then use the credit card to push bubbles up out the top and catch the soapy water with a rag. Also put tint with backing facing you on outside and use the credit card trace the edge of the windowsill. Then use scissors to cut on the crease  made by the credit card from tracing the window. Works great for sizing the tint to the inside. I have noticed the cling film is much thicker than autotint and thus less prone to wrinkle. Seems to stretch a little too. 
i also tinted the top edge of the forward windscreen but free hand cut the bottom part and did not get it straight. Will try again later but not a priority right now. 

I would use a different piece of plastic to get the bubbles out. Anytime I’ve used my credit card for anything aviation-related, a few weeks later I don’t enjoy opening the mail. 

Seriously it looks great. 

[Skates97]

2 hours ago, EricJ said:

He was asking about putting it on the outside, which I wouldn't recommend. 

Ahhh.... Missed that. I agree!

[LANCECASPER]

5 hours ago, redbaron1982 said:

Thanks all for the replies. I was wondering, is it possible to put the film on the outside? I think for a thermal point of view should be better, it blocks the heat even before it gets too the plexiglass. Some of the 3M film are designed for exterior use. 

Applications where the film is used on the outside of the window, like security film on houses and buildings, the item isn't moving through the air at 200 mph, except in tornado season. Getting the film caught in the elevator is probably not likely but not good if it happened.

[Mooney_Allegro]

I don't recommend the automotive 3M film at all on the rear window plexiglass.  I had it applied to a 1998 M20J by a professional & well recognized auto installer in the ATL area.  It looked great for about 5 months, and then it started to show major cracks throughout the film.  It got so bad I had to have him come remove it.  Luckily it didn't leave any residue after removal.  

[47U]

18 hours ago, Will.iam said:

Hey -a- can you fix my inverted pics?

Standing in for -a- … Maybe he’s off playing Santa.  I’m sure he won’t mind.  

[PilotX]

Looks good from the outside. OCD reflux is cruel while sitting inside. Ultimately I rarely have pax in the back and I am usually looking forward. The cling type was less clear than the other dye-type, I didn’t realize I had two different types until I had both sides on. I am hangared and covered when not so I am less worried about the thermal dynamics of it all. I did this after annual but I doubt my IA will care. 

[Cruiser]

this stuff is dirt cheap from an aviation perspective. It is worth trying even if you pull it back out and throw it away. It is not hard to do for someone with a little patience. If it only lasts a year or two it is worth the effort.

Cabin is much cooler, but it is harder to see through

 

[jaylw314]

20 hours ago, Will.iam said:

Not with a little soapy water spray. It allows you to slide the film into position then use the credit card to push bubbles up out the top and catch the soapy water with a rag. Also put tint with backing facing you on outside and use the credit card trace the edge of the windowsill. Then use scissors to cut on the crease  made by the credit card from tracing the window. Works great for sizing the tint to the inside. I have noticed the cling film is much thicker than autotint and thus less prone to wrinkle. Seems to stretch a little too. 
 

Thanks, I had assumed thicker film would be more prone to scalloping, but now that you describe it that way, it makes sense--thanks for the reality check!

[MMsuper21]

I used to own a high end tint shop. I would never apply permanent window film on plexiglass.
 

The film will eventually bubble and fade, yes even your lifetime warranty ceramic films. In order to shape it on such a curved window you need to apply lots of heat that can either weaken or melt the plexiglass. 
 

Plastics release small amounts of gas over time which will lead to bubbles. To remove the adhesive you either use a razor blade or strong degreaser with steel wool, in essence destroying the plexiglass. 
 

Cling wrap without adhesive is another story, probably not as clear but will not ruin your windows as long as the installer is capable when cutting the film.  
 

In order to remove the film