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Glen, you can tell by all the extra rivets of the doubler... and the shape isn’t exactly flat any longer...

You might find another Mooney on the field to take a look at...

If you want to swap out that part for one in better condition... find Alan...

Typically the parts close together pretty well... Mooney has had a few decades to get this right...

If the gap is too large... you might get vibrations... and associated wear...

PP thoughts only, not a mechanic... 

Best regards,

-a-

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The leading edge of the main gear door has been repaired, but needs to be flattened to match the wing skin.  The nose gear door should be adjusted to pull tighter against the opposite door.

Clarence

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Just for curiosity sake.  In the photo that I attached, it looks like the area circled in red has been bent somehow allowing it not to seat flush and there seems to be a crack in the skin (area circled in blue) that possibly has been stop drilled at some point.  Is that accurate or am I looking at the photo wrong?

65E55CAB-9BA9-4E8D-849F-3D8B88E4603F.thumb.jpeg.a0ce48a80b918afc8865b6749cfe1527.jpg

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9 minutes ago, Greg Ellis said:

Just for curiosity sake.  In the photo that I attached, it looks like the area circled in red has been bent somehow allowing it not to seat flush and there seems to be a crack in the skin (area circled in blue) that possibly has been stop drilled at some point.  Is that accurate or am I looking at the photo wrong?

65E55CAB-9BA9-4E8D-849F-3D8B88E4603F.thumb.jpeg.a0ce48a80b918afc8865b6749cfe1527.jpg

It has a patch riveted behind the crack.

That door has had a hard life. They get damaged taxiing through grass/dirt, or hard packed snow and ice. 

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8 hours ago, carusoam said:

Glen, you can tell by all the extra rivets of the doubler... and the shape isn’t exactly flat any longer...

Correct. That should be flat and laying against the anti-chafe tape.  With crack, probably better off calling Allen. But until then straighten it out, where it touches the belly I can see where it’s rubbing the belly to bare aluminum.  

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That row of rivets at the edge isn’t factory, it is from the patch. They should have put the flush rivets on the other side. As it is, the shop heads are grinding into your wing. Unless they did a double flush set.

Edited by N201MKTurbo
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9 hours ago, KB4 said:

Correct. That should be flat and laying against the anti-chafe tape.  With crack, probably better off calling Allen. But until then straighten it out, where it touches the belly I can see where it’s rubbing the belly to bare aluminum.  

Thanks for your comments.  I will have the shop try to straighten out the door as much as possible.  Who is Allen???  Glen

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A good guy here on Mooneyspace. 
He has his own salvage business.

he might have a gear door for you. Yours is pretty neat up. 

@alan fox

-Matt 

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No

You want a silicone in correct thickness to act as a bumper and seal

 

Many aircraft have seals for the doors to close upon.

Another area of metal on metal is cowl door upper and lower and mid section.

I designed a .032 in 1” and 1”-1/2 wide 

for this application, stocking dealer is aircraft spruce.

use silicone cement Or rtv106/ rtv108

If your in the aircraft seal business please chime in.

You will never see any turbine aircraft with metal on metal.

GB

 

6C332FDA-17D6-456D-8DFA-2FAD2726134B.jpeg

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Citation gear doors rub really bad. 
I like the fiberglass Teflon tape for that application. However, molded silicone door seals sound great!

-Matt

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Most turbine or jet aircraft have a molded seal with a umbrella pull to secure into place on airframe .

All Beechcraft have a channel where the inner and outer gear doors close upon/ 90% are missing as paint shops fail to install new after paint.

I have sold more than 6k sets since 1991 for nose and main gear doors .

trim to fit , clear silicone cement included.

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Mooney gear door fit lacks Beechcraft precision. I actually had some silicone seals like Guy describes on mine. I don’t know if they were Guy’s or not because they were there when I purchased the plane, but they looked like the same material I purchased from Guy for the cowling, which works great by the way. The main gear doors are chamfered and that’s why the silicone foam tape works well since it provides some cushioning to keep the metal parts from rubbing. I got the idea from the IPC where Mooney specifies a foam tape for the nose wheel gear doors. It worked so well there that I used it on all the doors.

Skip

Edit: Here's a picture.

IMG_3980-3.thumb.jpg.db52f7386ae31bdedc6984b3274af9eb.jpg

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.050 is the key to compression

acts as a Bumper and chafe

I invented the .025 for the beech gill and cowl doors.

The dies were expensive,, but a group buy of over 50 sets took care of that .

no more chafe or rain streaking 

 

You all fail the power of a group buy to get things made.

F0B5B46E-0666-42CA-B3D3-2FC0DF1F18DE.jpeg

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