Surefly Ignition Switch changes

[cferr59]

I have mostly installed my Surefly (after having to buy a $250 magneto gear).  I would prefer not to touch the ignition switch because it is almost impossible to get to due to my 201 windshield.  In addition to being a PITA to get to the switch, it would be nice to have the option to reinstall the old mag should the Surefly fail or end up with an AD.   Surefly is installed in the left position.

Is there any consequence to leaving the starting vibrator active?   The instructions just say to insulate the retard lead and tie it out of the way, no mention of disabling the starting vibrator.

Right now, the starting vibrator turns on in the start position and then I need to push to start.  Per some documentation from Bendix, it looks like the SOS (BO), retard points (LR), and left P-lead (L) are have continuity during this operation.  This means the starting vibrator is connected to both LR and L.  My intention would be to simply insulate the the lead coming from LR (retard) and leave the rest of the setup alone.

[Ragsf15e]

I don’t have an answer to your wiring question, but where is your SOS?  Mine was on the engine side of the firewall, held on by screws through the firewall that had actual nut plates! Amazing!  Anyway, it was simple to remove the sos, tie off the wires leading to it, but keep everything available and wired so it could go back easily if required.  Mine is a 68F, but I have heard others saying their sos was less accessible.

[cferr59]

Unfortunately, it is inside of the firewall at the top so it is almost inaccessible without the avionics access panels.  I wish it was on the engine side of the firewall!

[Ragsf15e]

13 minutes ago, cferr59 said:

Unfortunately, it is inside of the firewall at the top so it is almost inaccessible without the avionics access panels.  I wish it was on the engine side of the firewall!

Yeah somebody else had a similar issue.  I also have a 201 mod without access panels.  Can you take off the top of your dash?  Mine is relatively easy to remove.  It doesn’t provide terrific access, but if the sos is near the top, you might be able to get at the wires coming from the switch.  I think they are relatively easy to disconnect.

[cferr59]

1 minute ago, Ragsf15e said:

Yeah somebody else had a similar issue.  I also have a 201 mod without access panels.  Can you take off the top of your dash?  Mine is relatively easy to remove.  It doesn’t provide terrific access, but if the sos is near the top, you might be able to get at the wires coming from the switch.  I think they are relatively easy to disconnect.

I do have the dash off (for an unrelated issue) and I don't think I can quite get to it.  The easiest thing for me (other than leaving the whole thing alone) might be to remove the turn coordinator and push the switch through its hole.  My IA is leaving for vacation tomorrow, but promised to sign it off if I was done in the morning so I'd like to get it done expeditiously (although not in a way that will damage something!).

[Ragsf15e]

Yeah that’s a tough spot.  Well as you said, don’t break anything.  Sometimes trying to go fast makes the whole situation a lot worse!  Good luck!

[DXB]

1 hour ago, cferr59 said:

I have mostly installed my Surefly (after having to buy a $250 magneto gear).  I would prefer not to touch the ignition switch because it is almost impossible to get to due to my 201 windshield.  In addition to being a PITA to get to the switch, it would be nice to have the option to reinstall the old mag should the Surefly fail or end up with an AD.   Surefly is installed in the left position.

Is there any consequence to leaving the starting vibrator active?   The instructions just say to insulate the retard lead and tie it out of the way, no mention of disabling the starting vibrator.

Right now, the starting vibrator turns on in the start position and then I need to push to start.  Per some documentation from Bendix, it looks like the SOS (BO), retard points (LR), and left P-lead (L) are have continuity during this operation.  This means the starting vibrator is connected to both LR and L.  My intention would be to simply insulate the the lead coming from LR (retard) and leave the rest of the setup alone.

Chris FWIW, my SOS was left in place (agree it's a good idea to do so) but I no longer get a buzz when I twist to start without pushing in.  I assume the lead from the switch to the SOS was disconnected by the installer, but I can't imagine what problem it would cause if you didn't do so. At least on my bird, it's not too hard to disconnect despite the same 201 windshield- unscrew the ring retaining the ignition switch on the front of the panel, take off the glareshield, and simply flip the switch up above the panel.  

Another pro tip - you need a VERY FRESH 9V battery to time it.  Any slight reduction in voltage that wouldn't affect the battery in any other application won't let you time the Surefly - install manual says as much buried somewhere.  Found this out the hard way after my little oil leak incident that you helped out with...

Let me know if you need any help with removing or re- installing that PITA battery box so you can properly torque the bottom bolt 

 

[cferr59]

@DXB Sent you a text.  It is already torqued, timed and new harness installed, just to finish the wiring and MP pickup (needed tools that I didn't have at the airport).  From what I can tell, the vibrator won't actually do much of anything unless it is connected to a real magneto so it may be of no concern.  IA thought it doesn't matter either, but wasn't 100% sure.

[cferr59]

So I finished the install and the starting vibrator does not seem do anything now that I have installed the Surefly (can't hear it during start).   @DXB Thanks for the help with the battery box.  Haven't flown it yet, but I did have a successful run-up with the Surefly.   Hoping to do the first test flight later today if the weather holds out.

[carusoam]

It’s not still connected electrically is it?   at either end... input or output...

There is a whole thread around here including the starter vibrator SOS box...

How it works... complete with wiring diagrams...

I can see leaving it in place...

I can’t imagine leaving it connected to anything...

It is an old electrical device with no safety devices... 

Find what supplies it with power, and remove the CB, or wire...
 

It would suck if it generated power, and couldn’t get rid of it...  Worst case, it might be an ignition source...?
 

PP thoughts only, not an electrician...

Best regards,

-a-