Which access panels can I remove?

[Ross Taylor]

Hi MS friends,

I've got a '66 M20E with fuel bladders.  Inspired by another Mooney owner's video, and granted some spare time now, I am delving into a deep cleaning and learning opportunity.  I'd like to, one at a time, remove every access panel and clean inside, see/learn what's in there, check and replace screws or nylon washers as needed, and generally give the old bird a thorough freshening up.  After all that, I've got new clay blocks and some Optimum No Rinse cleaner and some of the Gtechniq C2 anxiously awaiting use.

Are there any access panels which I should not remove?  Might I run the risk of damaging a bladder if I remove the wrong access panel, or are they all safe to remove?

Thanks much,

Ross (the other Ross...)

[carusoam]

We have a thread around here where some installation was going on...

If involved Marauder’s plane, Terry was doing the work... Bob probably had some input... and for a time we have seen the company that makes the bladders...

All kinds of things to be aware of from foam pieces placed in the right places, to hardware used and what good fuel drains Look like...

Let us know if you need anything else...

Looking forward to the discussion that is coming...

Best regards,

-a-

[oldguyscanfly]

i just removed all my belly panels from my 65E to clean and inspect.  I would recommend getting the M20 screw kit https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/exterwasherkit.php  from Aircraft Spruce, and an assortment of tinnerman nuts lol

And a can of Tri Flow and LPS 2

Just viewing and learning all the linkages and other stuff is a great way to get to know your Mooney....

[Ross Taylor]

Thanks -a- @carusoam - that helps with the search.  I did a search of "access panel" but found lots of discussion about oil filter access or tail panels.  I'll look with those terms, too.  I'm guessing removing underwing panels is less messy with a bladder but I still want to be really sure I don't risk damaging anything inside.

@oldguyscanfly - good call on the fastener kit and the lube.  I've asked my mechanic (a Mooney owner, also on my field) to let me pay him to show me around the plane when he's done with the annual...maybe this week?  I'd like to know where things like the voltage regulator are.  :-)  I also asked that he leave off the access panels he's removed for annual, so I can clean inside, poke around, and replace fasteners.

On a related note, before the plane got pulled over to the maintenance hangar I pulled up the rear seat and removed those access panels to get my own eyes on the spar.  It's good to hear "no corrosion" but I want to see all this for myself and learn all I can.

Off to Aircraft Spruce to order a fastener kit now...

 

[jonhop]

Great Idea @Ross Taylor. Why not take pictures while you are probing the voids of M20E inner-space...

https://www.amazon.com/Vividia-Ablescope-VA-400-Borescope-Articulating/dp/B00GY7C9ZW

It's also a great tool to take pictures of valves when the spark plugs are out. Better than an compression test from what I've been told.

Have fun,

Jon

Edited April 27, 2020 by jonhop

[Guest]

2 hours ago, Ross Taylor said:

Hi MS friends,

I've got a '66 M20E with fuel bladders.  Inspired by another Mooney owner's video, and granted some spare time now, I am delving into a deep cleaning and learning opportunity.  I'd like to, one at a time, remove every access panel and clean inside, see/learn what's in there, check and replace screws or nylon washers as needed, and generally give the old bird a thorough freshening up.  After all that, I've got new clay blocks and some Optimum No Rinse cleaner and some of the Gtechniq C2 anxiously awaiting use.

Are there any access panels which I should not remove?  Might I run the risk of damaging a bladder if I remove the wrong access panel, or are they all safe to remove?

Thanks much,

Ross (the other Ross...)

The 2 inner most large panels in the top and bottom of the wings would have been the sealed fuel tank access, they now contain your fuel bladders.  All of the other panels can be easily removed.

The screw kit from Spruce is OK but most of the screws are too long, wasting valuable time and wrist wear turning them in and out.  Your vintage should use AN507-832 or now MS24693 series screws

Clarence

[Ross Taylor]

Thanks @jonhop - I happen to own that very borescope, upon the recommendation of Mike Busch.  I used it to probe the spar area, underneath the rear seat.  It's an amazing tool for the price.  Good call, sir.

And thanks @M20Doc - I should have waited for more input...as I just ordered the kit.  I'll see what I get and will also order some of the screws you mention.  <humble bow to the helpful guru!>

and a follow-up question @M20Doc - AS has those in different lengths.  Would you recommend 3/8, 7/16, 1/2?

[Guest]

6 hours ago, Ross Taylor said:

Thanks @jonhop - I happen to own that very borescope, upon the recommendation of Mike Busch.  I used it to probe the spar area, underneath the rear seat.  It's an amazing tool for the price.  Good call, sir.

And thanks @M20Doc - I should have waited for more input...as I just ordered the kit.  I'll see what I get and will also order some of the screws you mention.  <humble bow to the helpful guru!>

and a follow-up question @M20Doc - AS has those in different lengths.  Would you recommend 3/8, 7/16, 1/2?

The 3/8” length is long enough and puts the screw “in safety” and are the length I use.

Clarence

[carusoam]

Consider fuel safety precautions at all times...

In the event something comes apart unexpectedly...

electric screw drivers, static electricity, heaters across the hangar...

Don’t be soaked in fuel, have an ignition source readily available, and not have a fire extinguisher... or two...  

Take lots of pics while everything is opened up... great for planning the next steps over the next year...

 

PP thoughts only, not a fireman...

Best regards,

-a-

[Hank]

The previous owner of my Mooney put SS screws in all removable inspection panels, and painted the heads of the rest. Makes it simple . . . .  And is surprisingly easy to do on your own. Come annual time, I just take out all of the shiny screws.  

[MikeOH]

On 4/27/2020 at 3:46 AM, M20Doc said:

The 3/8” length is long enough and puts the screw “in safety” and are the length I use.

Clarence

@M20Doc

I know people like SS, but is there any reason cad plate would be preferable?

[Guest]

Stainless steel screws tend to bind in some platenuts, where cadmium screws don’t and stainless steel screws are softer and wear out sooner.  On the positive side they don’t corrode and stain painted surfaces.

Clarence

[carusoam]

Stainless steel will not have the strength characteristics that the usual steels are selected for...

So.... putting them in everywhere or where strength is required would be il-advised...

Holding sheet metal in place... is good... because the sheet metal isn’t any stronger than the SS hardware...

There may be dissimilar metal challenges... sometimes plastic washers are used in some important locations... or the painted surface is enough separation...

PP thoughts only, not a mechanic...

Best regards,

-a-

[Ross Taylor]

Well, I ordered a few hundred of the screws @M20Doc recommended and they're cadmium plated.  I agree that stainless is problematic, at times.  For example, when removing the cowling for annual, two of the stainless screws were stripped and a b to get out.  In my prior career, in wind energy, I'd occasionally encounter galled stainless fasteners if the installer either didn't use anti-seize compound correctly or if they were put in with high speed tools.  I think it had something to do with friction and heat, because I never saw that with bolts screwed into place by hand...nor with nuts put on by hand.  But use a screw gun or impact, with insufficient anti-seize, and sometimes those stainless fasteners would gall and seize and they had to be drilled or cut out.  Oddly, when this happened, the fasteners weren't just locked in one direction...we couldn't back them out/off either...hence the drilling or cutting. I have no idea if any of that translates to the tiny screws for cover plates, though.

Not a professional galling expert...